I plan to stay in Golmud for two days on June 23rd and 24th. The first day is Chaerhan Salt Lake, and the second day is Hoh Xil.
I originally planned to carpool at Hexi turntable to Chaerhan Salt Lake in the afternoon. Go to the train station square in the morning to inquire about the shuttle bus or carpool to Hoh Xil or Amdo. Zhang Li, a taxi guy, suggested that I go to Chaerhan Salt Lake in the morning and take his car to negotiate the round-trip price 100 yuan. He quickly called Allen and asked her to meet him at the guest house.
The road from Golmud to Chaerhan Salt Lake is very good. On both sides of the road are high-voltage iron towers and rows of high-voltage lines. I wonder where this route comes from. Zhang Ga told me that this was the route of "power transmission from west to east", which made me dumbfounded. I said this is not a power generation energy base. The north, middle and south lines of "West-to-East Power Transmission" are the northern lines that transmit electricity from Inner Mongolia, Shaanxi and other provinces to North China Power Grid. The central line transmits electricity from Sichuan, Chongqing and other provinces and cities to Central China and East China Power Grid; The southern line transmits electricity from Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi and other provinces to South China, which has nothing to do with Qinghai. Zhang Ga retorted: Qaidam is rich in power resources, and there are many wind power generation around Golmud. Well, I quickly searched the Internet. It's really my ignorance. I'm ashamed. Qinghai is rich in clean energy such as solar energy, wind energy and water energy. At present, the installed surplus of photovoltaic and wind power in Qinghai is about 20 million kilowatts, and it will be about 30 million kilowatts by 2025. However, Qinghai's own digestive capacity is limited and resources cannot be digested effectively. As early as 20 12, Qinghai Power Grid built two 750 kV power transmission channels from west to east, which realized the interconnection with Gansu Power Grid and promoted the development of Chaidamu circular economy zone. This year, Qinghai added 8,000 kV DC project to send electricity to Henan in July, effectively alleviating the problem of abandoning wind, light and electricity in northwest new energy, adding a treasure of clean energy to the title of Qaidam cornucopia.
Chaerhan Salt Lake is actually the factory of Qinghai Salt Lake Group. We came at a bad time. Before September last year, we didn't ask for tickets at will, because more and more tourists were forced to enter by the local government because of the security risks affecting production. We have invested 200 million yuan and are currently developing, so some places have not been fully opened. Chaerhan Salt Lake has the largest salt reserves in the world, ranking second in the world after Bolivia's Sky Mirror. Chaerhan means "king of salt" in Mongolian.
Golmud was born on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway and developed in Chaerhan Salt Lake. As the largest potassium-magnesium salt deposit in China, the total reserves of potassium, sodium, magnesium, lithium and other resources in the lake are 60 billion tons, of which potassium chloride reserves account for 97% of the country's proven reserves, and sodium chloride, magnesium chloride and lithium chloride also rank first in the country, which is a natural treasure of Golmud. 1958 Before the development of Chaerhan Salt Lake, China could not independently produce potash fertilizer, and all potash fertilizer was imported from Saisai. For farmers, chemical fertilizer is the lifeblood. Food production depends on fertilizers. I remember when I was a child, my cousins in the countryside couldn't buy fertilizer, so it was difficult to buy it from my father. The mass production of potash fertilizer in Chaerhan Salt Lake ensures the food security of China in a certain sense.
At present, Salt Industry Group ranks fourth in the world in potash fertilizer annual output, and is the largest potash fertilizer producer in China, with nearly 20,000 registered employees, and is called "the king of potash fertilizer" by the industry. Local employees told me that if potash fertilizer is produced simply, it will still be profitable, but now deep processing is losing money, but now the country has this demand, even if it is temporarily losing money, they will stick to it. Before entering the factory, I saw a metal magnesium industrial park, which is a metal magnesium integration project under the group. Metal magnesium plays an important role in national production, such as magnesium-lithium alloy, which is widely used in aerospace medical devices and notebook computers.
I'm here to play. Just like visiting a factory. Let's get down to business. Zhang Zhang dragged us to the factory gate and refused to let us in. Then a tourist bus took us to the scenic spot. Although you don't need a ticket, the bus fare is charged to 50 yuan, which is boring. It's about three kilometers from the gate to the scenic spot. I didn't pay attention to the guide's explanation. I wonder if this section is a salt bridge. On the way, I passed a yard with bags of potash fertilizer piled in it, which was not big from a distance. The tour guide girl said that this bag weighs a ton. There are separate salt ponds in the plant area, each about 3 square kilometers. The concentration of salt lake here is higher than that of Chaka Salt Lake, and the water is white crystal.
The so-called scenic spot is actually one of the salt ponds, but the salt crystallization effect of this salt pond is better. Salt flowers are as beautiful as big white flowers floating on the water, and there is a long strip of pure white salt flats, which is very Maldives-like. Because it is still in the process of tourism development, many places are not open, what a pity!
It is very important to visit the weather in salt lake. The better the light, the stronger the reflectivity of the lake, and the better the photo effect. It would be more perfect if there were white clouds reflected on the lake in the sky. It's a little sunny today. There are no clouds in the sky. The sky is sky blue with a hint of Pollan, and the lake is olive green. The sun is too big and the ultraviolet rays are too strong to go far, and there is nothing special in the distance. We can see several work vehicles working safely. The effective range of activities shall not exceed 1 km2. Allen and I are bored, and we can only shoot at those few salt flowers and white salt flats from various angles. Luckily, we brought red jackets, and Allen and I posed in various positions. Of course, the shape of Titanic is indispensable, and the salt lake must be red.
Zhang Zhang from Salt Lake is waiting for us at the factory gate. On the way back, Kunlun Mountain stands in front of us in the distance. Snow peak is pure and towering, far like a white ribbon floating in mid-air. It seems very close, but it seems that Xiangqian Che can't get there at a gallop.
It's almost two o'clock when I return to the city. I took a taxi to Changjiang Road Logistics Park to inquire about a lift into Tibet. Originally, I was going to Amdo by shuttle bus. Only when I inquired in Golmud did I know that since the opening of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, long-distance buses were gradually blocked on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway. It is said that it is because it is a high altitude area with a long no-man's land in the middle. In case of high passenger reaction, it will be very unsafe, especially now that the Qinghai-Tibet Highway is extremely busy and there are frequent traffic jams, which makes it very troublesome for a car to be blocked on the road. But I don't want to take the train. The trains from Golmud are all overnight trains. I can't see anything in the dark. I just want to see the scenery outside. Besides, Allen doesn't want to go to Hoh Xil. It's not appropriate for me to charter a car alone. If you can take a bus to Hoh Xil, then all the way to Amdo is not bad.
Changjiang Road Logistics Park is located at the intersection of 109 highway, which is convenient for large trucks to enter and leave Tibet. The empty car has just returned from Tibet, and the goods are ready to go. Drivers get together in twos and threes to chat. When asked, they all come from all over the country, and of course, my hometown of Anhui. There are also many Tibetan drivers, and the cockpit is beautifully dressed. After shopping around, I don't think it's realistic to hitch a ride. All the people loaded with goods will leave soon to burn the midnight oil. As for the empty car, I'm not sure when it can be loaded.
Fortunately, I met an enthusiastic master Wang, who said that the goods would be loaded tomorrow morning, just to give me a ride. Master Wang is from Changchun, Jilin, and his grandson is almost in primary school with me. I'm surprised that he still doesn't provide for the aged. Master Wang said that he has great strength and is not idle in his work. The money he earns can also be used for his little grandson to study and go to extracurricular classes. Long-distance trucks are hard and dangerous, and they are in plateau areas. Master Wang said that as long as you get on the bus, it basically takes 16 hours, and in extreme cases it takes 18 hours. Inexplicably moved in my heart, this is our great ordinary people in China, hardworking and brave, who are willing to devote their lives to their children before they die. It is this tenacity and tenacity that supports our Chinese nation to stand in the east of the world even after so many hardships.
I got up early the next day, and before I got the call, Master Wang's phone came. He said there was a carpool to Hoh Xil and asked me if I would go. Look at master Wang's costume. It hasn't happened yet. It would be great to have a chance to carpool here! After a while, the driver came to meet me. The driver's master surnamed Zhang. Later, I gave him a note on WeChat about Golmud driver Jianghu, which shows my recognition of him. Master Zhang, I can only call him Xiao Zhang, eight or nine years younger than me! But he got married at 18. Now my son has graduated from college and my daughter is in high school. Hearing this, I envy him very much. I am still struggling to provide education for my daughter of this age.
This year's epidemic has dealt a great blow to tourism, with fewer tourists than in previous years. Xiao Zhang walked in Golmud for a long time without talking to another photographer, so he had to drag me with another passenger. The person in the car is a Taoist, with a small beard and a white jacket, which looks like their Taoist casual clothes. The Taoist priest comes from a Taoist temple in Xining, and now he is going to the Dragon and Phoenix Temple in the Taoist temple of Kunlun Mountain. Taoist complained that this year was too bad, because the Taoist temple in Xining was not open because of the epidemic, which affected the incense. Fortunately, the Dragon and Phoenix Temple was not affected, so he was sent to the station.
Coming out of Golmud City is a checkpoint. As far as I know, it is under the jurisdiction of Naqu City. Strangely, this is the boundary of Golmud in Qinghai, which is far from Tibet administrative region. How can it belong to Naqu city? Xiao Zhang said that the Qinghai-Tibet Highway is under the jurisdiction of Tibet, and the maintenance cost of plateau highways in permafrost regions is extremely high, which Qinghai cannot afford. I wonder if Qinghai has money or not? Xiao Zhang also said that Tibet has various special policy subsidies from the state, and the Qinghai-Tibet Highway was originally built for Tibet, which is great.
Soon after passing the checkpoint, the car entered Kunlun Mountain, and the car traveled along the Golmud River for a long time. The Golmud River originates from the glacial meltwater in Kunlun Mountain and ends in Chaerhan Salt Lake in the central and eastern part of the basin. It is one of the largest inland rivers in Qaidam Basin, and Golmud River is the most important recharge river of Chaerhan Salt Lake, which greatly affects the salt formation and evolution process of the salt lake. Golmud River is like being split by a knife, with steep and vertical banks, bare loess and no trace of green. It is the mother river of Golmud City and an important water source for urban life, industry, agriculture and urban greening.
The car drove in the mountains for less than an hour, and it was Kunlun Shenquan. It is located in Nachitai on the north bank of Kunlun River, 90 kilometers away from Golmud, with an altitude of 3,700. At such a high altitude, it is amazing that there is such a plateau spring water spewing out at a constant temperature of 7 degrees Celsius all the year round. It has a magical legend. According to legend, it originated from the fairy tale of the heavenly palace. The local Tibetans also regard the unfrozen spring water as a sacred spring and often offer it to them. The diameter of the spring mouth is 1.6 meters, and the spring eye gushes out from the center and spreads around in concentric circles like a lotus flower. Kunlun Shenquan is the largest unfrozen spring in Kunlun Mountain. Spring water seeped into the ground after the snow and ice melted in Kunlun Mountain, and remained underground for more than 20 years before gushing out of the stratum. It is rich in a variety of mineral components that are beneficial to human body. Next to him is a local Tibetan who is taking water from the spring with a bucket. I had a brainwave and poured a glass of water. Xiao Zhang told me that when his sports car passed by, he would pour several barrels home every few days. He made tea with this natural mineral water. I am so excited.
Behind Shenquan Spring is a small wetland park formed by the outflow of spring water, with rippling blue waves, surging moss and abundant aquatic plants. It is amazing that there is such a unique paradise between the barren hills of this plateau. The water in the wetland flows downwards and finally flows into the surging Kunlun River.
Continue upward from Nachitai 15km, and it is Sanchahe Bridge, the highest bridge along the Qinghai-Tibet Railway. The confluence of Xiaonanchuan and Yeniugou is 3800 meters above sea level. The canyon formed by alluvial strata is split like a sharp axe, and the bridge stands in the canyon and straddles the cliff. The total length of the bridge is 690. 19 meters, and the bridge deck is 54. 1 meter away from the valley bottom. It is the first Gao Qiao in the Qinghai-Tibet Railway. It is magnificent, and behind all this is the wisdom and sweat of the builders. It will take two years to build a super-large bridge with a concrete pouring capacity of more than 30,000 cubic meters in Sanchahe, even in the mainland with better conditions. In order to ensure the smooth opening of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, the builders overcame various threats such as severe cold, low pressure, lack of oxygen, strong wind, heavy rain, strong ultraviolet rays, earthquakes, etc., and created a precedent for concrete pouring construction of railway bridges in winter in the world, and finally successfully completed the bridge construction in one year.
After ten minutes, the bridge reached Longfeng Gong, the highest Taoist temple in the world, with an altitude of 3,700 meters, which is the destination of Zhang Daoshi. Daogong, located in the valley, is a Taoist temple dedicated to the Notre Dame (the Queen Mother of the West, the Nine Days Xuan Nv and the Old Mother of the Golden Saint), so it is also called the Queen Mother Temple of the West. There is a statue of Jiang Ziya in Taoist Temple Square, and it is said that Jiang Ziya got his way here. There are also many granite pillars in the square, engraved with the words of Tao Te Ching, which are philosophical and thought-provoking. Writing here can't help but introspect.
After leaving Longfeng Gong, the car went through the mountains. I'm curious about the shoals and canals along the expressway, which lasted for a long time. Xiao Zhang said that this is the source of the Chumar River. I am so excited to hear that this is the northern source of the Yangtze River. Tuotuo River is the main water source, while Dangqu is the southern water source. But think about it. The Chumar River originates from the southern foot of Heiji Mountain in the western part of the Hoh Xil Mountain. The Chumar River runs east-west. Xiao Zhang insisted on his point of view. Once, a member of a scientific investigation team from Sanjiangyuan was invited to listen to an expert's lecture. I did some research on the internet. It is said that the Chuma River collects water from the southern slope of Kunlun Mountain and flows into Tongtian River. Perhaps for this reason, it is the source of the Chumar River. The Chumar River is also translated into Qumalai River. I wonder if the name of Qumalai County comes from this?
Xuefeng gradually enters the field of vision, either in front or on the side. The car stops at the Xidatan observation deck at an altitude of 4 179 meters, opposite the Emerald Everest opposite the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, also known as Coco Saijimen Peak. A friend who met Xiao Zhang here also brought a young tourist. Xiao Zhang chatted with his friends and I chatted with the young man. The young man just graduated from Xining geography graduate, saying that the graduate student has studied the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau for three years, and almost graduated after the research. He told me the difference between popular science geology and geography, saying that geography is a little more interesting than geology. It takes thousands of years for a geological structure to become a stratigraphic structure, and I was amazed. The observation deck is an excellent angle to watch the Emerald Everest and a good place to take pictures. Although Kunlun Mountain is a huge mountain system, the Jade Everest, with an altitude of 6 178 meters, stands in front of us as the highest peak in the eastern part of Kunlun Mountain, and that kind of shock shocks the whole body. The snow-capped mountains are high in geometry and spread on the sky, which is more poetic than any picture scroll. A long snowy mountain line stretches like a dragon lying on the ground!
Jade Mount Everest is considered as the most ideal training peak for beginners because of its moderate height, gentle slope, easy climbing and good accessibility. Now, the Emerald Everest National Mountaineering Training Base has been built here, and there are also commercial mountaineering companies, and ordinary people with experience in mountaineering projects can also participate. The cost is about 10 thousand, which is expensive and reluctant.
It's about an hour's drive from Jade Everest to Kunlun Mountain Pass. On the road, colorful military vehicles gathered in the depths of the valley, and two helicopters hovered in the air. Xiao Zhang said that during the exercise season in July and August, there were more military vehicles here! Kunlun Mountain Pass is at an altitude of 4759, belonging to Qumalai County, Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. It is the only place where the Qinghai-Tibet Highway passes through Kunlun Mountain, and the throat and Qinghai-Tibet Railway pass through here. There is a constant stream of big trucks on the highway. Although the Qinghai-Tibet Railway has been opened, taking 75% of the freight volume in Tibet, the Qinghai-Tibet Highway is still the busiest of the five routes into Tibet.
Kunlun Mountain Pass has high altitude, complex terrain and changeable climate. Snow in June is not uncommon. Today, we are lucky, the sky is clear in Wan Li, the sky is blue and the clouds are bright, but the mountain pass is high above sea level and windy, so I don't feel much warmth in my jacket.
It turned out to be life, Kunlun Mountain, reading all the spring scenery in the world. You are like three million flying Yu-lung Pai, cutting through the sky. Kunlun Mountain, also known as Kunlun Xu, is the symbol of the Chinese nation, the first mountain in China, and has a prominent position as the "ancestor of thousands of mountains" in the cultural history of the Chinese nation. Many ancient mythical figures came from here, and the ancients called Kunlun Mountain the "ancestor of Long Mai" of China. In Tibetan, it is called "Armani Zhan Mu Musong", which means the mountain of ancestors.
Continue to advance to the plain from Kunlun Mountain Pass and gradually enter the Hoh Xil area. In retrospect, we entered Kunlun Mountain around 9: 00 a.m. and came out around 2: 00 p.m., excluding the stay time at various scenic spots. Xiao Zhang said that we walked nearly 200 kilometers in it. When I read the trip to Wan Li Road in thousands of books, I always thought that Kunlun Mountain was a long and single mountain range, but now I feel the concept of mountain range. It is made up of countless parallel mountains and branches, which is very huge. It starts from the Pamirs in the west, with a total length of 2,500 kilometers, an average elevation of 5,500-6,000 meters, a width of 130-200 kilometers and a total area of more than 500,000 square kilometers.
The most wanted destination of this trip is the long-awaited Hoh Xil. In Tibetan, Hoh Xil means "the barren land under the Kunlun Mountains in the north", with an average elevation of more than 4,600 meters, a minimum temperature of MINUS 40 degrees Celsius, and an oxygen content less than half that of the plain area. It is called the forbidden area of human life, and as the largest no-man's land in China, it is known as "the largest wilderness in China".
I learned a lot in National Geographic magazine and watched Hoh Xil by Lu Chuan, but what impressed me more was the documentary Tianping, which recorded the protection and theft of Hoh Xil for nearly four years. Douban 9.4 is a work of conscience. The story about Sonam Dajie, Zabadojie and their Western Working Committee is shocking, moving, shocking and depressing.
Hoh Xil used to be a tragic story. As early as the 1980s, with the rise of gold mining industry, poachers were rampant, and Tibetan antelopes were devastated, and the number dropped rapidly from more than 200,000 to less than 20,000. In order to protect the ecology of Hoh Xil, Zhiduo County established the Wild Yak Team of the Western Working Committee 199 1, which is responsible for armed anti-poaching. 1994, the first captain Sonam Dajie died in a gun battle with poachers, and his brother-in-law Zabadoje inherited his path. The work of preventing poaching is dangerous and arduous, and the financial poverty is short of funds. The players won't even get a penny for ten months. Sometimes during the patrol, they only eat two sausages every day, and they can't find water but drink muddy water in the rut. Their efforts improved the poaching situation in Hoh Xil, and together with volunteers, they established the first nature reserve in China-Sonandajie Nature Reserve, and promoted the establishment of the Hoh Xil Nature Reserve Administration. However, the establishment of the management bureau did not consider the treatment of the wild yak team, and the players lost a lot. Sonam Dajie died at the hands of poachers in the nature reserve, while Zabadoje died under great pressure by his own gun. Alas, they are all Tibetan celebrities and heroes worthy of our memory. Now Zabadojie's son Pucuo Cairen and Qiupei Tashi have inherited his father's career and worked in the front line of the Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve Administration and the Sanjiangyuan National Park Administration.
Today, the ecology of Hoh Xil has been greatly improved. I haven't heard the sound of stolen shotguns for more than ten years, and the population of various animals, mainly Tibetan antelopes, has gradually picked up. Today, there are more than 230 kinds of wild animals and 202 kinds of wild plants in Hoh Xil, which has become an amazing biological gene bank in the world. With the development of science and technology, the comprehensive ecological monitoring and big data analysis system in Hoh Xil has been launched, and the mode of "protecting the ecology with fists" will become history.
I heard from Xiao Zhang that Tibetan antelopes used to be very alert and ran away when they saw people. Now Tibetan antelopes are not afraid of people at all because they know they are safe. Many Tibetan antelopes give birth in the pond behind Sonandaje Protection Station. I asked Xiao Zhang that the place was so close to the road. Is the Tibetan antelope too noisy? Xiao Zhang snorted and said it would be safe. Wolves are afraid to come to places where there are many lights on. Now Tibetan antelopes are not afraid of wolves and people! Gee, animals are really smart, humans.
I have been in China for several times in the past two years, and I can generally feel China's emphasis on ecological environment protection. The more nature reserves are built, the more I remember taking my baby to Baihu Nature Reserve in Altai Mountain, Xinjiang on 20 10. The management is so strict that I can't get in at all, and it is forbidden to dig cordyceps in the mountains. One is that people who dig cordyceps are afraid that cooking in the mountains will cause forest fires, and the other is that digging cordyceps will destroy the ecology of alpine grasslands. Cordyceps diggers can only take risks secretly, I don't know. The worst time of Sanjiangyuan Nature Reserve was in the 1990s, when overgrazing, bare grassland and rats were seriously harmful. All the water sources at the source of the Yangtze River have been cut off, and the source of people's life in China has reached the most critical moment. According to Xiao Zhang, at that time, the whole people mobilized to catch mice manually, and it was still a dollar to reward a mouse.
From about 2006, ecological migration began in the source area of Sanjiangyuan, grazing was strictly prohibited in the protected area, and certain policies were given to herders to move out. According to local people, there is a Tibetan new village in Golmud, which is an ecological migration project. The compensation is 40,000 yuan per person per year. Herdsmen rarely have family planning, so each family has several children, so it is still generous. I am also very gratified and happy to hear that herders have settled so well. It's 2020. After so many years of hard work, the ecology of Sanjiangyuan has been obviously improved. A few days ago, a foreign politician accused China of irresponsibly destroying the ecology of the Three Rivers. I don't know where he got the wrong information. Is it really misunderstood or intentional?
Xiao Zhang has been engaged in tourist charter business for more than ten years, and he is well informed, but his professionals are different. Along the way, he introduced me to the scenery along the way, the situation of Sanjiangyuan Nature Reserve, and found several Tibetan antelopes. I didn't pay attention to the scenery. While driving, Xiao Zhang was keenly aware that there were Tibetan wild donkeys and a wild yak on the hillside in the distance. Xiao Zhang said that there are more Tibetan antelopes in July and August, and they only appear in twos and threes at the end of June this season.
Sonam Dajie Protection Station is near Qingshui River. Behind the protection station, there is a big yard blocked by a large green metal net, which is used to rescue wild animals. I walked back along the metal net, and on the right was a beautiful and calm river. Several wild ducks swam around comfortably on the water, and a wild yak soaked in water was found on the shore. I guess I accidentally fell into the water and drowned. The ground is dotted with wild flowers, which are so precious and delicate in this harsh natural environment. I took the SLR and patted the flowers on the ground. The close-up under the lens is more beautiful, with a kind of indifference and romance blooming in Shan Ye. The farther back, the wider the field of vision, and no one around. The blue sky and white clouds are reflected low on the water. Yuan Ye silently spread to the distant horizon, until the rolling snow-capped mountains. From a distance, you can see Yuxu Peak, the sister peak of Jade Everest. According to legend, it is the place where the jade goddess lives, and there is an immortal spirit.
The unity of heaven and earth seems to have been integrated into it, immersed in the infinity of heaven and earth, and there is an unspeakable feeling. Being intoxicated, Xiao Zhang's shouts woke me up. He couldn't find me anywhere, and he was in a hurry. He roared that if he couldn't come back, he would spend the night in the wild lake on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway to prevent a big traffic jam.
On the way back, I received a phone call from Master Wang. He waited in line for a day in the early morning before loading the goods. He is preparing to burn the midnight oil to Tibet. It's too difficult and too dangerous. I quickly wished him a pleasant journey and reminded him to pay attention to safety. I think of the road repairman of Qinghai-Tibet Highway I met on the road, with a thin, dark face, engaged in heavy physical labor such as road repair in the plateau hypoxia environment, and I sincerely respect him. They are great ordinary workers, just like red blood cells carrying oxygen in their blood vessels, maintaining the transportation of materials on the Qinghai-Tibet highway and ensuring peace and tranquility in Tibet.
It was already nine o'clock in the evening when we arrived in Golmud. I feel exhausted and can't catch the train to Amdo at four o'clock in the morning as planned. I comfort myself that I am here to travel, not to fight hard. Why are you so tired? Just interested in Mangya, I decided to change my itinerary and go to Mangya the next day. The original tourism theme "trip to Qinghai-Tibet" should be changed to "colorful Qaidam"!