Hanfu in Xia Dynasty (from the end of the 22nd century to the beginning of the 7th century)
The origin of Hanfu
The origin of myths and legends-the ancestor of China, the legendary ancient emperor Xuanyuan Huangdi unified the Chinese tribe. Under his rule, political stability, cultural progress, strong national strength, there are many inventions, such as writing, agriculture, music, calendars and so on. It is said that the princess of the Yellow Emperor, Lei Zu, started sericulture and silk weaving, thus invented Hanfu. Leizu clothes are all over the world, and the beauty of silk is in China. Since the Western Zhou Dynasty, she has been regarded as the mother of China and the first silkworm.
The actual origin-ancient times, the productivity is extremely low. For human beings, the origin of clothing is out of practicality. After the Stone Age, people mastered the methods of making and using tools, invented bone cones and bone needles, and thus created primitive clothing. About 5,000 years ago, during the Yangshao Culture in the Neolithic Age in China, people's lives became more and more stable, resulting in primitive agriculture and textile industry. They began to make clothes out of woven linen, and later invented sericulture and spinning, and people's clothes and costumes became more and more complete.
Hanfu Culture in China: A Brief Introduction to Hanfu in Shang Dynasty (65438 BC+Early 7th Century-65438 BC+065438 BC+0th Century)
Hanfu style in Shang dynasty
Shang Dynasty was the first written dynasty in China. According to many archaeological discoveries, the basic style of Hanfu in this period has been fully formed. Clothing in this period mainly consists of two parts: top and hem. The cuffs are narrow, there are no buttons, a wide band is tied around the waist, and a "knee pad" similar to a skirt is added in front of the abdomen to cover the knees.
During this period, the fabrics were mostly warm colors, especially yellow and red, and occasionally brown and brown, but this does not mean that there were no cool colors such as basket and green. Only the red yellow made of cinnabar and stone yellow is brighter and more penetrating than other colors, so it has remained unchanged for a long time and has been preserved to this day. According to the analysis of modern science and technology, the method of dyeing and weaving in Shang and Zhou dynasties was often a combination of dyeing and painting, especially the positive colors such as red and yellow, which were often painted with a brush after the fabric was woven.
According to textual research, the styles of tops and skirts appeared in Shang Dynasty, but the upper sleeves were shorter and the lower skirts were narrower. There was a collar at that time, which lasted until the Ming Dynasty. Formal dress was separated at that time, and the formal dress system was initially established at that time, but it was still not perfect. Tops and bottoms are the uniform styles prevailing in the whole country. To sum up, at that time, the attribute of the national costume was established, and the top was the first style of the Hanfu system, and it was also the most primitive style in the later period.
Pants under the coat: It is said that there were pants at that time, but they were all open-crotch, and open-crotch pants could only be worn under the coat.
Hairstyle: Men braid their hair in the early stage and wear the braided hair on their heads in the later stage, which becomes the basis for men to tie their hair (Han male hairstyle).
Crown scarf: at that time, there was already the prototype of the crown.
China Hanfu Culture-Brief Introduction of Western Zhou Costume (1 1 century-71/years ago)
Western Zhou dynasty clothing style
The Zhou Dynasty founded the country with feudal system, consolidated the empire with strict class system, and formulated a set of very meticulous etiquette to regulate the society and stabilize the world. Clothing is the symbol of everyone's class, so the clothing system is one of the foundations of legislation, and the regulations are very strict.
The costumes of the Zhou Dynasty generally followed the costume system of the Shang Dynasty, with slight changes. The style of clothes is slightly looser than that of Shang Dynasty. There are two styles of sleeves, large and small, and the collar is generally crossed with a right slit. Buttons are not needed, usually tied on the waist, and some have jade ornaments hanging on their waists. The length of the skirt or trousers is as short as the knee and as long as the ground.
Crown service system: The greatest contribution of the Western Zhou Dynasty and its influence on later generations is the perfection of the formal dress system (also called crown service system). The Western Zhou Dynasty's formal dress system was also up and down, except that there was a crown on the head (all kinds of crowns at that time had been developed and perfected, and continued to later generations), clothes should be graded, there should be chapters, and there were knee, jade and other related dress accessories, so the perfect formal dress system continued until the Ming Dynasty. At that time, the main grade of the dress was crown dress, so it was called crown dress, depending on the style of the relevant crown dress. For example, wearing a crown is a crown, and wearing a crown is a crown. They are still under the coat, but the hat top and badge are different, and the grade of accessories is different. Coronation dress, as a kind of high-class dress, lasted until the Ming Dynasty. Only then can emperors, officials and doctors wear coronation clothes. Later, with the strengthening of centralization, only the emperor and the prince Wang could wear it. At that time, the queen had already begun to wear Zhai clothes as women's clothes. At that time, the queen had six kinds of Zhai clothes.
Petticoat: At that time, uniforms or petticoats were the mainstream and the style remained unchanged. It's just that the sleeves are getting bigger every day, forming big sleeves and eliminating styles. The clothes are getting wider and wider.
Hairstyle: At that time, most men in the Western Zhou Dynasty braided their hair to the top of their heads everywhere. Except for some foreign countries, they did not have the habit of keeping long hair when doing business. However, bun has become a unified national standard, which has laid the foundation for the hairstyle of Han men for thousands of years.
Crown hat towel: the crown at that time was fully developed, and the basic crowns of later generations could be seen at that time, including magpie tail crown, Shang crown, long crown, tube crown and crown. The hat was also formed at that time.
Hanfu Culture in China-Eastern Zhou Dynasty (Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period) (765438 BC+065438 BC-256 BC)
Dongzhou clothing style
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, an important Hanfu-Deep Clothes was born.
Deep coat is a kind of straight gown, which wraps the body and petticoat together, cuts them separately but sews them up and down, hence the name "Bei Shen". Shenfu continues the characteristics of Hanfu with one collar and one right collar, which has great influence on society. Both men and women can wear it, regardless of grade. Skirts are divided into two styles: arc and straight. The difference in appearance lies in whether there is a circumferential pattern in the lower body. During this period, textile printing and dyeing technology has been very developed, and many complex and gorgeous patterns have appeared on Hanfu.
Top-down dress: the dress for routine service is still a top-down dress, and the big sleeves are only used in the dress and have become customized. And it has become exquisite, and jade has not gone far at that time.
Pants under the coat: According to some research data, Han people had crotch pants before Khufu rode horses and shot arrows, and also had clothes that matched pants directly under the coat.
One-piece clothing (deep clothing): It is worth mentioning that due to the great ideological changes in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, another large-scale deep clothing of Hanfu came into being (deep clothing is actually a conjoined version of the top and bottom clothing system, which is also a collar. Due to the development of productivity, ordinary and troublesome clothes can no longer meet the needs of the people, but clothes can be made continuously and can be used in etiquette and uniforms, which is the progress of Hanfu style. Dark clothes 12 pieces, representing 12 months. There are two kinds: straight and curved. Later, as the mainstream style of deep clothes, straight purlin was used until the Ming, Spring and Autumn, Warring States and Qin and Han Dynasties, and the hem of straight purlin was narrow. Different from that, Quju declined after Wei and Jin Dynasties, but it didn't date back, because Zhu still had the style of Quju in Ming Dynasty. However, Zhi Zhi has always been popular, and later became a folk costume in Shu Ren and a home casual dress of the literati class. At the beginning of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the sleeves of deep clothes were mostly taken off with straight tubes. Later, the hanging part of the sleeve became wider and wider, forming a semicircular vertical arc (cuff), but it was still closed (cuff), so a semicircular arc sleeve was formed for appearance (cuff), and such a sleeve became the customization of deep clothes, as long as it represented an idea. There were long sleeves at that time, but only when dancing.
Hanfu Culture in China —— A Brief Introduction to Hanfu in Qin Dynasty (22 BC1-280 BC)
Qin dynasty (2265438 BC+0-206 BC)
In 22 1 BC, Qin destroyed the six countries, and Qin Shihuang took power, establishing the first unified country in China history. Qin Shihuang unified writing, currency, weights and measures, etc. It had a far-reaching influence on the national strength of China and the formation and continuation of the Han nationality.
Hanfu in Qin Dynasty mainly inherited the influence of the previous dynasty, and still took robes as typical clothing styles, which were divided into curved and straight styles, and sleeves also had two styles. There was little difference between men and women in daily life in Qin dynasty, and they all had big breasts and narrow sleeves. The difference is that men have a belt around their waist and a hook at the end. And women only use ribbons to tie their waists. Due to the discovery of the Terracotta Warriors and Horses in the Mausoleum of the First Qin Dynasty, there are abundant historical materials for the study of dress customs in the Qin Dynasty.
Imperial clothing system: The Western Han Dynasty improved the system of Zhou crown clothing and formed the imperial clothing system, which produced more than 20 kinds of dresses, court clothes and uniforms for emperors and officials. Like Zhou's system, these 20 species are basically distinguished by different crowns. Clothes and court clothes are still made under the coat, and the accessories of clothes, such as jade knees, remain unchanged. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, a new style emerged. Therefore, it is only more hierarchical, more detailed and richer than the Zhou system. The style is basically Zhou system, and the dresses of later generations, with Zhou system as the skeleton and Qin and Han dynasties as the flesh and blood, continued until the Ming Dynasty. After that, the dress can be basically established, with little change.
Lower garment and lower garment: the folk uniforms are still lower garment and lower garment, but lower garment has gradually replaced lower garment as the mainstream, and lower garment is becoming wider than before.
Under coats and pants: Working people still wear pants directly under coats. & lt/P & gt；
It is worth mentioning that in the world of deep clothes that has been flooded in the Han Dynasty, people seem to miss the clothes of the upper and lower bodies again, so women begin to wear the lower bodies again, but the tops are very short, usually reaching the waist and hips, plunging into the skirts, with narrow sleeves and wide skirts. So he belongs to the category of up and down, but later added a lot of female characteristics and some fixed. Another point is different from that under the coat. A skirt is a suit, for example, colors and patterns are not matched at will, but matched.
Robe: there were robes cut up and down in the Eastern Han Dynasty, but although they were called robes, there was still no customization in the specific length scale. At this time, there appeared a robe with two sides split (split). The difference between a robe and a robe is that the robe has a sandwich, that is, a double layer, while the robe has no crotch and is relatively thin. Then came the fourth style of Hanfu system-robes, which were not counted, because robes were not well developed.
Hairstyle: Of course, the terracotta warriors and horses in the Qin Dynasty braided their hair, but in the Han Dynasty, braiding was obviously the mainstream. This simple hairstyle without braiding is also the basic hairstyle of Han men who have been in use until the Ming Dynasty. Later, the hair was basically tied on it, not a shawl.
Crown scarf: Due to the establishment of the clothing system, the crown is no longer worn by anyone, and wearing a crown has become a symbol of rank. The newly-emerged crowns include the gold thread crowns of officials, the military clothes of military commanders, the plain towels of the Eastern Han Dynasty, the Guan Liang of civil servants, and the lacquered yarn crowns of military commanders, which continued until the Sui, Tang, Song and Ming Dynasties. The crown has risen to the status that only emperors wear it. Folk men can only tie up their hair and fix it with a hairpin, or wrap it in a bun with a towel. Because of this system, the Han Dynasty was also a period of mass production of hats and towels.
T-neck: In the past, the collar system only had a horizontal collar. Influenced by the northwest nationalities in Qin and Han dynasties, T-collar (pen name collar) elements began to intervene in Han costumes.
Hanfu Culture in China-Hanfu in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties (220-589)
Jin Dynasty (265-420)- Southern and Northern Dynasties (420-580)
During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, romantic celebrities advocated nature, detached themselves from things, and sincerely admired themselves. Wei and Jin demeanor is also reflected in Hanfu. Men in this period generally wear big sleeves-shirts with big sleeves. From princes and nobles to Li and Shu people, wide shirts and big sleeves are given priority. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life. There are obvious differences in style between shirts and dresses. According to the custom of the Han dynasty, anyone who calls it a robe must have a cuff and a mouthpiece. Don't take off your shirt, the cuffs are spacious. Clothing became more and more popular in Wei and Jin Dynasties, and shirts became a temporary custom because they were not bound by clothes and other departments.
Women's Shirt Skirts in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties The women's dresses in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties inherited the customs of Qin and Han Dynasties and absorbed the characteristics of minority costumes. On the basis of tradition, they are improved. They usually wear shirts, jackets and skirts with silk belts around their waists. Most styles are frugal and generous. They are characterized by double-breasted waist, wide sleeves, cuffs, skirts and sleeves. The body is tight, the cuffs are hypertrophy, the skirt is a multi-fold skirt, which mops the floor for a long time and the hem is loose, achieving a handsome and chic effect. Coupled with rich jewelry, it embodies luxury and beauty. At that time, women's skirts included other skirts besides colorful ones.
Southern and Northern Dynasties
Clothing color system: Due to the formal system of Jiupin, the grades of product officers are formally divided into distinct grades. With Jiupin officers, the colors of dresses and uniforms of each grade are different. Since then, the dress color system has become a standard of dress grade, and in the past, it was often distinguished by wearing clothes rather than color.
Tops and skirts: Because the Wei and Jin Dynasties were also a period of great ideological turmoil, people no longer liked the clothes of tops and skirts in uniforms. Due to the influence of some ideological trends, the clothes became more and more generous and elegant, and the sleeves were changed to the open Wei and Jin Dynasties.
Even the clothes (deep clothes): the deep clothes have also retreated to the literati class and the folk small dress class, and the clothes are wider than before. People seem to prefer new dresses and pleats.
Robe: It's very popular. There are already round neck robes.
Jacket and trousers (pleats): It should be said that there were clothes with shorts and trousers in the previous dynasty, but the collocation at that time was more casual and there were many kinds of trousers, which should not constitute a fixed style. However, the pleats developed at that time became the mainstream and the collocation was fixed, so it was the fifth style in the Hanfu system-under-clothing pleats. Specifically, wearing a short coat on the top and trousers on the bottom is relatively wide, trumpet-shaped and wrinkled. Sometimes a tie is made by tying it or tying it to your knees with a belt.
Upper and lower skirts: At that time, it was from the early Qin and Han Dynasties to the Wei and Jin Dynasties. Although the clothes were separated, they still retained some features of deep clothes in appearance, such as the sleeves still removed, the lower skirt was wide and the skirt waist was tall and long.
Crown hat towel: hat towel has got unprecedented development, which was basically available in later generations. Because the crown has become a symbol of rank, folk men have invented many kinds of towels and hats. For example, towels, nylon towels and so on appeared. At that time, there was a kind of lacquer sarong crown which was worn by very important courtiers.
Straight collar: At that time, based on the existing horizontal collar and round neck, the straight collar was invented through the horizontal collar.
Hanfu Culture in China —— A Brief Introduction of Hanfu in Sui and Tang Dynasties (58 1 -960)
Sui dynasty (58 1 year -6 18)
Tang dynasty (6 18-907)
Five Dynasties (907-960)
In 58 1 year, the Sui Dynasty was established, ending the 400-year division since the Eastern Han Dynasty. This is a feudal unified country re-established after Qin and Han dynasties, and it is a new national identity centered on the Han nationality. North and South clothing imitate each other, and the industry is close to despair. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of feudal society in China, which opened the most brilliant chapter in ancient China. During the Tang Dynasty, the country was stable, the economy was prosperous, the cultural undertakings developed in an all-round way, and the feudal culture reached its peak. After a long period of inheritance, evolution and development, the Tang Dynasty costumes in the past 300 years have become an extremely important period in the development of China costumes. On the one hand, the costumes of the Tang Dynasty inherited the system of crown clothing in previous dynasties, which inspired the dress styles of later generations; On the other hand, the development of costumes in the Tang Dynasty was inclusive and was widely adopted and collected. After the Tang Dynasty, the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms were the continuation of the feudal warlord regime in the Tang and Song Dynasties, and generally followed the system of the Tang Dynasty in dress. The costumes in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, whether official or civilian, men's or women's, all showed an open mind and pioneering spirit, which fully reflected the distinctive times and strong nationality.
Tang costume is the main dress of women in Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. Silk, also known as "painted silk", is usually woven with a thin layer of yarn with pictures and patterns printed on it. The length is generally more than two meters. When in use, it is draped over the shoulders and rolled between the arms. Women in the Tang Dynasty took plump figure as beauty. Because of the plump figure, women's dresses in the middle Tang Dynasty became wider and wider, and the skirt width was much larger than that in the late Sui and early Tang Dynasties. Although the clothes are made in small sleeve, they tend to be loose compared with the women's clothes in the early Tang Dynasty and the prosperous Tang Dynasty.
After the Tang Dynasty, the influence of Khufu gradually weakened, and the styles of women's clothes became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. Generally speaking, women's sleeves are often more than four feet wide. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, aristocratic dresses were usually worn on important occasions, such as attending the Senate, attending ceremonies and getting married. Wearing this kind of clothes, there are golden flowers in the hair, so it is also called "hairpin gift clothes". The style of big sleeve shirt skirt is big sleeve double-breasted and long skirt with silk. It is a characteristic of clothing in the Tang Dynasty to use gauze as the material of women's clothing, which is closely related to the open thought at that time. In particular, wearing only veil without underwear is a pioneering work. The so-called "skin can be seen in thin lines when the front edge continues" is a summary of this kind of clothing.
The Sui and Tang Dynasties also produced an important variant of Hanfu T-shirts. Round neck style appeared very early in the clothing history of China, but it was not until Sui and Tang Dynasties that it became popular and became an official costume. This kind of clothing lasted for the Tang Dynasty, the Five Dynasties, the Song Dynasty and the Ming Dynasty, and had a great influence on Japan, Korea and other countries. It is very common for men to wrap their heads and wear round neck robes in the Tang Dynasty, among which the robe with the lead is the most important. Wotou, also known as Fu Tou, is a primitive costume formed on the basis of the Han and Wei Dynasties. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament to the hoe, called "towel". The shape of towels varies from time to time. Besides towels, many changes have taken place in the feet of steamed bread. By the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the original soft foot had become a hard foot with one left and one right.
It should be pointed out that the popularity of this round neck Hanfu variant does not mean the disappearance of the traditional right-handed Hanfu. In fact, even in the most popular Tang Dynasty, it was mostly confined to areas centered on Chang 'an, and between officials and members of the royal family. However, between wuyue and other areas and ordinary people, this kind of Hanfu was mainly big-chested and right-handed, and it was similar in the Song and Ming Dynasties. In the Tang Dynasty, in addition to wearing round neck and narrow sleeves, officials still wore dresses on some important occasions, such as sacrificial ceremonies. Most of the styles of clothing inherited the old system of Sui Dynasty, such as wearing a belt or cage crown, double-breasted big sleeve shirts, skirts, and ribbons from Yu Pei. Hanfu with round neck, like Hanfu with collar, is an important part of China national costume.
Up and down: there is still.
Clothing (deep clothing): at home and among the people, it is still a small dress for literati.
Robe: The popularity of robes is unprecedented and has become the mainstream clothing of the people. At that time, the official uniform began to adopt a round neck robe, which continued until the Ming Dynasty, which is what we later called official uniform or official uniform. & lt
Upper hem and lower hem: At that time, the skirt of women was shortened to the chest, widened, tied to the chest, and then tied to the long skirt, almost hanging to the ground, similar to the current Korean women's clothing. Sleeves basically turned into small sleeve, and in the later period, small sleeve hung down a part to cover his hand, which made him look slim and turned into a hanging sleeve. At the beginning, a square and thick cloak-like thing was put on the skirt, and it became a scorpion. Later, it became narrower and narrower, and only became a piece of cloth, which was fixed on the shoulder. It is worn in various ways and becomes a silk. Later, purse and silk became inseparable elements in skirts, which continued until the Ming Dynasty.
From the middle Tang Dynasty to the Five Dynasties, the style returned to the Wei and Jin Dynasties, and the skirt was still waist-to-hip with a narrow waist and high skirt, but the sleeves were still small sleeve.
Lapel shirts: Lapel shirts originally belonged to the category of robe shirts. Because in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, men wore fir, but the length was only up to the knee, and a boundary was set at the knee, which was called a horizontal lapel. Below is a skirt. So although he belongs to the category of soaked shirts, he is more like a combination of soaked shirts and deep clothes in structure. So he became the sixth style in Hanfu system-blue shirt. Because the early blue shirts appeared as official uniforms, and the collars were all round necks, the later blue shirts generally followed this point, but the collars were widened and closed. The Ming dynasty was the official uniform of officials.
Straight hem: As mentioned above, a long skirt cut from top to bottom, like a robe, comes from a long skirt. However, the original dress was not customized. However, in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the length of the robe was stipulated as ankle-length, with a top-off edge and a cross collar, and both sides could not be short of crotch (split), thus forming the seventh type of Hanfu system-straight (straight) category. At that time, the customization of straight clothes was mainly to revive ancient rituals and find the best middle point between deep clothes and robes, so the most standardized straight clothes came into being.
Coat-Sleeve coat-Spinning coat-Scorpion: At that time, there was a kind of scorpion, but the difference was that it was connected by a straight collar, and there were two of them.
Split the side to your armpit, which will make you feel a little half naked and half dressed. At that time, it was called coat. Later, women's big sleeves were also based on this. They are split to the armpits and tied with straight collars. They are called big sleeves, but the sleeves are big sleeves and the clothes are a little long. Later, in the Song Dynasty, it became narrower and longer, and the sleeves became small sleeve again. This time it was a straight collar, but it was not tied, and it became a spiral coat. In the Ming Dynasty, the sleeves will become wider and larger, and they will naturally split under the semi-straight collar (with belt). Because these series are in the same strain, there is no change in style, so they can be classified into one category and become the eighth style in the Hanfu system-collectively referred to as the sub-category. The most important feature of Xunzi is that it is tied with a straight collar and split at both sides to the armpit. At first, it was mostly used for dresses, and later it became custom-made. For example, women wear skirts, and women wear zongzi when they are engaged in folk etiquette activities. This is also the court Tang suit in the Korean period (the collar gown worn by Princess Shanggong in Korean drama). In the Ming Dynasty, sleeveless and semi-sleeveless scorpions appeared again, which was already unisex at that time.
Half-arm: At that time, there was a popular shovel with half sleeves and sleeveless sleeves, mostly with a straight collar and a small belt on the chest. If calculated separately, it can be regarded as the ninth type of Hanfu system-half arm. Because it is sleeveless, it is usually worn as a coat outside the skirt. But I think he should summarize it in the book.
Crown scarf: In addition to the same crown scarf, this is an unprecedented period of hat development. For example, the earliest wingless-to the soft wing-to the hard wing-to the straight wing-to the spread wing, which later became the black hat of the Ming Dynasty and the spread wing later became the black hat of the Song Dynasty. Like hats, it was also produced at that time. Such as women's curtains, hats and veils.
Hanfu Culture in China —— A Brief Introduction to Hanfu in Song Dynasty (960- 1279)
Song Dynasty is a highly developed dynasty in economy, science and technology and culture. Agriculture, shipbuilding, textile and paper industry have reached new heights, and gunpowder, compass and printing technology have been invented. Generally speaking, the costumes in Song Dynasty can be divided into official clothes and casual clothes. & ltSTRONG & gt formal uniform. It is also divided into imperial clothes and public clothes. Palace costumes are used in important occasions such as court meetings and sacrifices. They are all made of Zhu's clothes and skirts. They wear and line clothes of different colors and textures, and have corresponding crowns. Official clothes are official clothes, with round neck and big sleeves, a belt around the waist, steamed bread on the head and shoes made of leather shoes or silk and hemp on the feet. According to the regulations, all senior officials who are qualified to wear purple and scarlet uniforms must wear "fish bags" decorated with gold and silver in the shape of fish. People were only allowed to wear white clothes. Later, foreigners, juren and Shu Ren were allowed to wear black clothes. But in real life, folk costumes are colorful, and they are not imaginative at all.
Women's clothing in the Song Dynasty-The clothing worn by ordinary women in the Song Dynasty includes coats, fur coats, shirts, backpacks, half-arms, skirts, pants and other clothing styles. In Song Dynasty, women mainly wore skirts, but they also had pants. The costumes of women in Song Dynasty are similar to those of women in Han Dynasty. They are all slender, with narrow sleeves and crossed collars, wearing elegant long skirts in various colors. Yan and coat are basically similar clothes, the form is relatively short, and the lower body is matched with a skirt. Red and purple are the main colors, followed by yellow. The style of government skirts in Song Dynasty is basically the same as that in Tang Dynasty. The decoration on the car body is not complicated. In addition to silk, only a jade ring ornament is added to the ribbon worn in the middle of the waist. Its main function is to suppress the skirt so that it is not affected by the wind when walking or moving. The "Yuhuan Ribbon" mentioned in the history books is this kind of decoration.
A coat called Xunzi was popular in Song Dynasty. In Song Dynasty, Xunzi had long sleeves, a long body and a crotch under his arm, that is, the clothes were not sewn back and forth, but there were belts under his arm and back suffix. The double belt under the armpit could have been used to tie the front and back skirts, but the raccoon in the Song Dynasty didn't tie it, but hung it for decoration, which means imitating the form of the ancient single (underwear) cross-belt, which means "it's good to stay old." When you wear a robe, you tie it around your waist with silk. There are three kinds of lapels in Song Dynasty: straight lapels and double lapels, oblique lapels and disc lapels, among which straight lapels are the most. Oblique collar and disc collar are only worn by men under public service, while women wear straight collar and double-breasted style. Housewives with status wear big sleeves. Maids-in-waiting and concubines wear clothes with crotch under their arms, which is more convenient to walk. Women's dresses in Song Dynasty were short at first, and then lengthened, and developed into a standard format with sleeves larger than shirts and skirts.
The costumes of the Han nationality in the Song Dynasty basically continued the costumes of the Tang Dynasty. Whatever existed in the Tang Dynasty and the previous dynasties has not changed.
Clothing (deep clothing): at home and among the people, it is still a small dress for literati. However, compared with the previous dynasties, deep clothes became more and more active among the people and tended to be ritualized. Zhu Jiali formulated the specifications of the deep clothes, which became Zhu's deep clothes, while the sleeves of the deep clothes in the Song Dynasty were wider.
Tuck up the skirt: After the Five Dynasties returned to normal, only the skirt was tied higher than the waist, and the waist of the skirt was not fixed, directly revealing slender legs. And Ming basically continued Song Feng.
Crown hat towel: On the basis of the previous dynasty, there are several new crown hat towels. For example, many celebrities invented towels. Such as Zhu Zhu towel, broken towel, and new towel. In terms of steamed bread, steamed bread has become square, and there are new curved-winged steamed bread and flower steamed bread.
Square bend collar: Put the square bend collar on the dress.
Hanfu Culture in China: A Brief Introduction to Hanfu in Ming Dynasty (1368- 1644)
After the brutal rule of Mongolian Empire in Yuan Dynasty, China went backwards in economy, science and technology and culture. At the end of the Yuan Dynasty, China's economy and society fell into complete collapse and chaos. In order to rebuild etiquette and national self-esteem, the Ming Dynasty attached great importance to rectification and restoration after the restoration of the country. STRONG & gt clothing system
The dress form of upper and lower skirts in Ming Dynasty is the same as that in Tang and Song Dynasties, except that a short waist skirt is often added among young women to facilitate activities, and some maids and maids also like this dress. The coat is a stand-up collar and a long-sleeved coat. The skirt was light in color at first, although it had patterns, but it was not obvious. By the early years of Chongzhen, skirts were mostly plain white, and even if there were embroidery patterns, only a lace was decorated one or two inches below the skirt as a presser foot. At the beginning of the skirt, there were six pieces, that is, the so-called "skirt dragging six pieces of Xiangjiang River water"; After using it for eight times, there are many fine wrinkles at the waist, and the lines are like water lines. By the end of the Ming dynasty, the decoration of skirts became more and more exquisite, and the number of skirts increased to ten. The pleats at the waist are getting denser and denser, and each pleat has a color. The breeze blows, and the color is like a moonlight skirt, so it is called a "moonlight skirt". A "palace belt" made of ribbon is often hung on the belt. Usually make a few circles in the middle, and then it falls to the ground. Some people string a piece of Yu Pei in the middle, so that the skirt can be held down and the appearance will not be affected, which is similar to the Yuhuan ribbon in the Song Dynasty.
Officials in the Ming Dynasty wore public uniforms. It is made of a collar with a right slit and sleeves three feet wide. The patterns and colors used in robes vary according to grades: the first to fourth grades are scarlet; Five to seven products, with cyan; Eight or nine products, green. The pattern is also different, with large flowers with a diameter of five inches; The floret is grade two, with a diameter of three inches; Three kinds of scattered flowers, no branches and leaves, two inches in diameter; Four [five] small flowers, one inch and a half in diameter; Six [seven small flowers, one inch in diameter; Below level 8, there is no pattern. These clothes, together with spreading hoes, are mostly used for important court meetings.
Sadly, after the Qing Dynasty entered the customs, Hanfu disappeared in China under its slaughter policy! ! !