Wuyiyan Tea Factory, in its heyday in the past, there were 130 tea shops all over the mountain (now it is everywhere, from the airport to Xingcun, one tea shop after another). In recent years, due to local changes and ominous economy, many tea merchants did not come to the north, or listened to its desolation, or only sent agents, but only remitted money to entrust agents, which led to the barren decline of Yanshan. According to the investigation, among the tea factories whose names can still be heard in the mountains, 55 are still making tea, 22 are partially abandoned in the mountains and merged into other rock factories, and 9 are abandoned. The following is a list:
194 1 investigation of Wuyi quanshan rock factory in may (1) (tea-making workers who have completed the factory).
Questionnaire of Wuyi Quanshan Stone Factory (2)
(Part of Chashan was abandoned and merged into other factories) The investigation time is as above.
Questionnaire of Wuyi Quanshan Stone Factory (3)
The survey time is the same as the above table.
Niuzhu
In the investigation report of 1943, it was recorded that the teahouses built by Shan Yan factory and small-scale or even abandoned tea factories were in the depression period of rock tea industry at that time.
Today, I only solve watch number one.
Table 1 basically represents the output of most "Xiafubang" teahouses with a history of one hundred years in Shan Yan factory area after the decline of Xike Rock Tea. In addition to Xiafu Gang, namely Hui 'an, Anxi, Chaozhou, Jinjiang, Nan 'an and Shantou, there are also investigation records of local tea factories in Chong 'an and tea factories in the Republic of China. The following annotation analysis lists one or two in chart order.
Because of the war of the Republic of China, the dumping of foreign tea markets led to a sharp drop in rock tea production, and Wuyi tea garden was deserted, many tea factories closed down and few teahouses were found. In order to revitalize the tea industry, the government of the Republic of China began to implement the tea revival plan in tea-producing areas all over the country. Wuyishan is one of the key production areas of the revival plan. Fujian demonstration tea factory was established to carry out tea production and scientific research. At that time, many people in charge of scientific research and production in Wuyishan later became academic experts in the tea industry. They are Zhuang Wan Fang, Zhang Tianfu, Wu Zhenduo, Lin Fuquan and Chen Shusheng. In order to seek the development of Fujian tea industry, recommended by Concord University 1934, he participated in the Fujian provincial government industrial investigation group to visit Japan and Taiwan Province Province for many times. Come back to write about the tea industry in Taiwan Province Province. Why write about the tea industry in Taiwan Province Province? As mentioned earlier, Taiwan Province tea, which was a Japanese colony at that time, was planted by Japan as a colonial material, and the planted tea was used for dumping in Southeast Asia and the international market, which hit the national tea at a very low price, thus threatening the tea trade in China. Therefore, the main purpose of writing about the tea industry in Taiwan Province Province at that time was to analyze the advantages and disadvantages and carry out its own reform. So in 1935, Fujian Provincial Construction Department and Education Department decided to set up Fuan Tea School and Tea Improvement Farm. Zhang Tianfu became the principal and director at that time. Formed a combination of construction and education. Lin Fuquan and Wu Zhenduo were the first students of Fuan Agricultural School at that time. 1940, Fujian provincial government and China Tea Corporation jointly established a demonstration tea factory in Chong 'an, with Zhang Tianfu as the director, and set up two rock tea factories and 12 Neishan rock factory, and established a mechanized primary production and refining factory. Lin Fuquan was still a young man at that time. Under the guidance of Zhang Tianfu, he began to sublimate and summarize the rock tea technology from "oral biography", theorize it and edit it into a book. It has preserved data for the research and dissemination of rock tea.
Fujian Demonstration Tea Factory was founded by the then Fujian Provincial Government and China Tea Company, which was the predecessor of Wuyishan Tea Factory after the founding of the People's Republic of China. The following local public property in Chong 'an County was also managed by Fujian Model Tea Factory. Therefore, it is stated in the remarks that this stone was originally a local property of Chong 'an and was placed under the management of a model tea factory by the provincial government. 194 1 the total output is 6505kg. Fujian Demonstration Tea Factory General Factory is located at the foot of Wuyi Mountain (the whole Wuyishan vein), and Fuan Branch employs technician Chen Shaohui as the deputy director. Fuding Berlin factory hired You Tongru as the factory director; Chen Xun is the director of Zhenghe Tea Making Institute; Lin Fuquan is the director of the tea-making institute directly under Qishan (now Wuyishan); Wu is the director of Xingcun Tea Factory. At that time, Fujian Demonstration Tea Factory gathered the earliest aspiring elites of China tea industry. They either become the backbone of agriculture in China or the backbone of tea revitalization in Taiwan Province after liberation.
"Wuyishan Records" records: "Rock tea is made by monks and Taoists, and it is named fir and single fir for the temple. It's not on the market. Tea merchants are all looking for it in the temple. In the manufacturing industry, most of them are owners' rock factories and family workshops. " Therefore, in order to change this situation of uneven distribution of resources and backward manual work, the Fujian demonstration tea factory at that time successively inspected Abies in Mingshan, carried out asexual reproduction, and mechanically improved the manual work to improve efficiency. 1940 quanshanyan factory's manufacturers include foguoyan and bishi. 10 Rock Factory belongs to Fujian Demonstration Tea Factory. There are 34 tea houses such as Lin Qiyuan and Jiquan in Shan Yan Rock Factory, Chong 'an Tea Factory 10, Tianxin Temple 1.
In the early days of its establishment, Zhang Tianfu, Hu Haochuan and Liao Cunren went deep into Tianxin Temple to investigate and registered 60 species. Tianxin Temple hosted Miao Chang, a monk, and entrusted Baotou Chen to make it privately and keep it secret. After investigation by a demonstration tea factory, it was found that the purple-red bud tea of Tianxin Temple was first written in Daoguang period of Qing Dynasty. Zheng Guangzu wrote in the fourth volume of a Luban miscellaneous book: "If Fujian real estate' red robe' and' flag building' flourish for 50 years, they will not suffer from a catty of heavenly heart every year and will last for more than ten days. Overthrow the saying that Dahongpao had a history of 350 years at that time and only existed in temples. Just mentioned earlier, I have solved the puzzle that "Kowloon Dahongpao" is the Khitan.
At that time, in order to find out the secret of the "Dahongpao" hidden by monks in the temple, Lin Fuquan went to Baotou with a gift to visit Chen who was making tea for Tianxin Temple at that time. He wants Chen Shou to teach him the skill of being an apprentice on the grounds that he hasn't graduated yet. Chen tui said that he has been employed in Tianxin Temple and can't work part-time, but he can learn technology. At that time, they were very close, as close as brothers. After that, he was trusted by the monks of Tianxin Temple and visited the picking production. Lin recorded and speculated in detail that Dahongpao was successfully trial-produced the following year.
About the more detailed records of Fujian model tea factory, there will be more detailed research after my book is published. Space is limited here. Not discussed in detail.
Among the private teahouses that followed, Jiquan Teahouse, whose native place was Hui 'an, was probably because Lin Lao's books were privately handed down, which led to the emergence of many small packets of tea with the logo of Jiquan Teahouse in recent years, most of which were forged, and the forged paper was not clever. The printed paper is not consistent with the printing technology at that time, and it is obviously more advanced than the paper and ink at that time.
It is also necessary to spend a lot of time here to describe and analyze Jiquan Teahouse. According to1June, 983, Huian literature and history records, the founder of Jiquan Tea House was Shi Dacheng, who was founded in the forty-sixth year of Qianlong, and the original site was Wu Xia Street, Chengguan, Hui 'an County. As a family tea house, Shi's grandson Shi was responsible for purchasing tea in Chong 'an and "Liuguanzhai" rock tea factory in Wuyishan, which laid the foundation for his family to develop tea industry. Jiquan mainly deals in Wuyi rock tea, and also deals in low-grade oolong tea in northern Fujian. During the Xianfeng period, Shi donated four products and went to Wuyishan via Nanping Jian 'ou, which was treated with courtesy by local officials. In Lin Fuquan's article, it is recorded that in the heyday of the spring tea season, whenever tea merchants make purchases, passing officials warmly greet him.
Jiquan Tea House deals in all kinds of commercial tea. At that time, it was recorded that 48 yuan per catty of Luohan, Narcissus per catty 16 yuan, 6 yuan 40 points per catty of Sydney, 3 yuan 20 points per catty of snowflake, Yu Ming 60 points per catty 1 yuan, and plums 80 points per catty. Among them, Arhat is the most precious, which is composed of Wuyi Dayan tea and has gradually become a famous commercial tea at home and abroad. However, the popular Luohan Jiquan, even if it is fake, is really just a flower name with rock tea. These are all revealed in historical materials.
After the death of the stone, Jiquan Tea House can still maintain the quality of tea, and the price of tea is relatively stable, all calculated in silver dollars. 192 1 years ago, it was the heyday of Jiquan teahouse business, with an annual turnover of120,000 silver dollars. Among them, the iron arhat accounts for 30% of the total issuance.
1924, the descendants of Stone bought Huiyuan West Tea Factory for thirteen thousand silver dollars. It is a famous rock factory in the center of Jinshanchang in Wuyishan, with good quality and high output. Jiquan underwrites the tea factory. 1924 set up a branch in Shishi Town, Jinjiang County, with an annual turnover of 30,000 silver dollars.
The iron arhat in Jiquan is made of old Wuyi rock tea as monosodium glutamate raw material, and the old and the new are mixed. Due to its proximity to Fuzhou Port, many Southeast Asian businessmen who travel by sea all the year round are scrambling to buy drinks for daily heatstroke prevention and relief. At that time, coastal residents had great trust in Jiquan brand. So this is a false risk of greed. To this end, Jiquan also stamped the words "fake Tianzhu" on the outer packaging.
The management of Jiquan is better than that of Yolanda, which was originally recorded in Quanzhou, because it dares to hire people outside the family to manage it. After the victory of War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression, in order to facilitate overseas Chinese to purchase, a branch was set up in Zhongshan Road, Xiamen. However, due to the huge profits and frequent changes of the people, the quality of tea has declined, and there has been a crisis of confidence in this variety of Luohan.
1949, near liberation, the head of Shennong Pharmacy in the Philippines came to Xiamen. On recommendation, we reached an agreement with Jiquan in July as the sole agent in the Philippines to underwrite150,000 iron arhats every year. Later, the quality of the tea industry was poor, the quality was inferior, and there were many fakes, which led to a slump. 1956 after the public-private partnership, the century-old teahouse disappeared and its quality was no longer brilliant.
About the Luohan tea in Jiquan's current market, except counterfeit tea, even if it is true, it is also the product of its low period. Instead of drinking, it is better to look around, learn more about history and know its glory.
Other teahouses existed in 1943, and most of them were the backbone of the three groups in their heyday. I won't go into details here. Take Gong: Fujian Demonstration Tea Factory as an example. Private: Jiquan Tea House is a watch. Do a shallow analysis. The really in-depth part will be recorded in detail when writing a book.
Two years ago, an old tea man from Taiwan Province visited Wuyishan, and after drinking rock tea in Liujiali, he sighed: Rock tea is still delicious after four years! Zheng Liu immediately asked, do you have it? Give me a drink and I'll make it for you. The other party is embarrassed and speechless. Compared with the embarrassing times when rock tea has not recovered in all kinds of downturns in the past four years, Wuyi rock tea is definitely better than then. In this tea, in the text, the only thing that may change the taste is the Republic of China, which is gone forever. Compared with Taiwan Province Province, the tea of that era may be particularly memorable ... I am too young to guess.
I wrote these words during my long drive today. If there are any mistakes, correct them later.
Many teahouses and tea farms in the table annotated yesterday (1) are still operating tenaciously and properly even at the lowest ebb of Wuyi tea. Among them, the public has the historical mission of reviving rock tea, and the private still maintains a stable value with its own unique operation and proper management during the war years.
Today's table (2) is about 1940, which gradually began to be abandoned. Many tea brands in Table 2 have basically disappeared before the founding of the People's Republic of China. Table (3) is a completely deserted mountain farm and a collapsed abandoned tea factory.
In Table (2), in addition to the local public property in Chong 'an, which ranks first, Yang Wenpu Teahouse, which ranks second, was mentioned in the last article when talking about history. In the heyday of Xiafu Gang, Yang Wenpu once developed to the point of buying all the "Imperial Tea Garden" in the Song Dynasty. Yangwenpu Teahouse has a long history. Its founder was originally from Zhangzhou, Fujian, and the specific time of its establishment was not verified. In the middle of the Qing Dynasty, Yang Wenpu was a member of Xiafu Gang after a westward journey. At that time, relying on the prosperous consumer market, the products of Yang Wenpu Tea House were exported to southern Fujian, Xiamen and eastern Guangdong. Far enough to reach Singapore, the Philippines, Hong Kong, Macau and San Francisco. At the same time, there are Yolanda Teahouse in Quanzhou, Jiquan Teahouse in Hui 'an, Lin Qiyuan Teahouse in Zhangzhou and Liyao Town Teahouse in eastern Guangdong. These teahouses, which flourished in the mid-Qing Dynasty, still preserve the tea houses with balanced strength and excellent quality in the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China, leaving only Jiquan Tea House in Hui 'an. In all these teahouses, only Caiquan ensures the quality, and outsiders are widely used as shopkeepers, which are well managed and run smoothly. So in yesterday's table, Jiquan still has its own market in the downturn, maintaining its excellent mountain field in Wuyishan. At that time, the characteristic product of Yang Wenpu Tea House was "famous color species", which has been introduced in the previous article. Compared with the high-quality mixed arhat of Jiquan, the tea with famous colors is closer to ordinary people in price and quality. Because the main number of Yang Wenpu Teahouse was later Xiamen, Xiamen people called tea "MC Davi" and made it one of the seven things to open the door. At that time, there were more teahouses in Xiamen than rice shops, and the British recorded that "Xiamen was the first tea export port in China in the past". Even now, Xiamen people still like the strong Haidi brand. First, because the baking fire is above the medium fire, and second, Haidi brand is not expensive and easy to consume, so everyone can drink it. During the Shunzhi period, Britain used Xiamen as a port to transport tea to Britain.
The Old Scenery of Xiamen Narcissus Wharf
During the Kangxi period, the East India Company set up an agency in Xiamen, and more than a dozen tea boats transported Wuyi tea by sea. During the Qianlong period, there were more than 1000 shops in Wangshi area of Xiamen, most of which were tea shops. During Guangxu period, Xiamen exported 90,000 tons of Wuyi tea and oolong tea, which were sold at home and abroad in the form of "small seed bags" and loose tea. At that time, the "tea variety" of Yang Wenpu Tea House was more than 30 yuan per catty. The market price of small seed bubble is five yuan, which is twice that of rice at that time. In the late Qing Dynasty, Yang Wenpu Tea House was presided over by Yang Yannong, but he was infatuated with officialdom, and businessmen could not be infatuated with officialdom. Once self-expansion and control desire are involved in business, they are increasingly deviating from the original intention of proper management. Finally, even a shrewd businessman like Hu Xueyan rarely dies well after taking a high position. At that time, Yang Yannong spent a lot of money to donate the title of "Dr. Tong Feng". He usually likes to smoke opium, spend money like water, pursue extravagance, and finally weaken the teahouse and step into decline. When Yang Wenpu was alive, in order to expand the overseas market, he hired foreigners as foreign affairs and let Yang Yannong learn etiquette and foreign languages. However, after his father died, Yang Yannong couldn't resist the temperament of a rich young master in his bones and eventually squandered his family business. Today, near Xiamen Dazhong Road and CoCo Lee Primary School is the former site of Yang Wenpu Teahouse.
But it is said that such a black sheep has another unknown side, that is, he is familiar with international languages and dares to innovate. At that time, he knew how to design beautifully designed postcards to promote his teahouse. Just like Taobao or Xiamen now, many people still care about foreign design and packaging. But I want to say that all treasures can't follow the failure. Yang Wenpu's old shop is an example. Even in the face of the huge overseas market and numerous opportunities, we should still be "internal fundamental", that is, low-key and practical, not vain, attach importance to quality in business, and then to the external design of products. Therefore, even when the design is rampant all over the world, the taste of tea soup in the real cup is endless disappointment after the exquisite and unique packaging is opened with joy and appreciation. There is nothing wrong with design, but directly talking about design does not talk about quality. In the end, consumers can only drink "packaging", which is of course worse.
The business card designed by Yang Yannong.
Only the notes of Yang Wenpu Teahouse in Table 2 show the situation of a series of other teahouses in Table 2 at that time. Not much to say.
In the table 1, it was mentioned yesterday that the teahouse in Jiquan was founded by Zhang Weiren, whose grandfather made a living by selling tea. In the eighteenth year of Jiaqing, Zhang and his son Zhang set up stalls in Quanzhou and Tushan, selling Wuyi tea and northern Fujian coarse tea. A few years later, through diligent management, they set up Yolanda Teahouse, which mainly deals in daffodils and arhats. I like to choose the old tea that is stored in storage, with heavy quality, rich color and foam resistance, mix it with the mellow new tea, and add osmanthus and Lan Shu to create a fragrant oolong tea, which is sold to Southeast Asia, Hong Kong, Macao and other places. At that time, the packaging of Yolanda Garden was also very particular. Packaging money should be cleaned, tea powder should be screened and the color should be uniform. Each bubble should be wrapped into a flat square, and five bubbles should be tied into a bundle. It is expensive to integrate the two villages and put them in tin cans. But it is still widely sought after in Southeast Asia. In the sixth year of the Republic of China, a fire broke out and was burned down, resulting in heavy losses. However, Zhang and his son used more than 200 boxes of Wuyi tea and rock tea from another tea house to prepare and sell them at a high price, and they recovered in less than a year. But later, Yolanda was confronted with intrigue between races. With the development of business, it began to squander opium. Finally, it was defeated. Yolanda is also a splendid century-old teahouse. Like Jiquan, the development history of Guangquan Garden is the history of the whole Qing Dynasty from its peak to its decline, and the story in the middle is enough to be written into a script and made into a movie. So I won't go into too much detail here. The book is integrated, so it is natural to explain it in detail.
In Table 3, most of them are small-scale manufacturers and individuals who just pass by in their heyday. In agriculture, they are not diligent farmers, but in business, they are not diligent businessmen. Naturally, when the country fell to the lowest point, they all dispersed, leaving behind barren camellias and collapsed factories. Not surprising.
Not all the teas bought by teahouses and tea merchants are prolific in the main producing areas of Wuyi. Part of the quantity is camellia, which is shipped to Wuyi for sale. This has been recorded in the Qing Dynasty.
1706, Zi Wang, the magistrate of Chong 'an County, recorded: "There are many plants in neighboring cities, which are transported to Xingcun market for sale. They all pretend to be' Wuyi Tea', and Anxi is prolific, especially. " Although Anxi people brought many improved Wuyi tea varieties, the tea planted in Anxi was not as good as Wuyishan in terms of soil and water, even in the era when chemistry and pesticides were not involved. Many Anxi tea farmers brought technology and tea varieties. There are still people who pretend to be high-quality Wuyi tea by using tea seeds outside Wuyishan, making and selling fake products. This situation is not unique today. Since ancient times, human nature has been like this. Generation after generation, people lament that the world is getting worse, but we can see that the curve of the world has ups and downs, just like the overlap of history.
Different from Wuyi tea market, which gradually declined from the late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China, many abandoned Shan Ye have gradually resumed farming, and the whole of Shan Ye has been unable to profit from local tea planting. Even at that time, so many tea scholars held the mission and efforts to revive rock tea, but they lost to the severe and worrying form at home and abroad. Many essences of a generation of elites just fall into the dust with history. None of them expected that another peak of Wuyi tea was actually an innovative black tea with no history at all, which promoted the prosperity of the whole Wuyi market. I remember when I first started to produce black tea, I once took it to Zhang Tianfu for tasting. He said that this kind of tea has no market and no future, and it is a complete waste of raw materials for Wuyi tea. But what Zhang Tianfu didn't expect was that in the next few years, this kind of tea expanded rapidly, which led to the popularity of black tea again. Although there are many foam ingredients in the middle, it just drives the revival of rock tea. The price and market output of rock tea in Wuyishan have reached a peak. I happened to see someone abusing the vulgarity of that black tea in Weibo. I think this angle is too narrow. The real historical significance of that kind of tea lies in that it inadvertently realized the wishes of the predecessors who tried to revive Wuyi tea in the19th century. For people who loved tea in Beijing at that time, it might be enough.
Through the analysis of tea production and management in the Republic of China, we can see the epitome of a big era. Some people say that drinking tea is to pursue "quietness", but even if the home is made like a fairyland, the small environment is narrow and illusory for the truth of the big environment. If we really pursue "quietness", we will use the essence of life to contribute some sustainable architectural nutrients to these tea fields. Wouldn't it be better for our children and grandchildren not to pursue the old tea that is gone forever and hard to find, so that they can make their own tea with the fresh air of spring every year? The grandmother in the south originally wanted to eat and drink, so why should she covet vanity to create a dreamland?
(Lin Fuquan, Hu Niu, this article is transferred from Sweeping Wild Mountain House)