After the establishment of the Song Dynasty regime, Dr. Nie Chongyi published "Three Rites" in two years (figure 10), inviting him to re-formulate the clothing system. 100 years later, after several improvements, there are many prohibitions on the people. "The clothes are graded and dare not be slightly similar." However, due to the influence of political and economic factors in the Song Dynasty, "clothes and seals are confused up and down" was overwhelming in the Southern Song Dynasty. The clothes of the upper class in society conform to the routine, and there are roughly three kinds of official clothes, casual clothes and old clothes.
In the process of unifying the South in the early Song Dynasty, millions of splendid silks were obtained from Houshu, Nantang and wuyue in the Yangtze River valley. In order to show the world, Zhao Kuangyin dressed up more than 20,000 people's guard of honor with printed and embroidered silks, and made a masterpiece "Embroidered Clothes and Brine Book" with a picture scroll, which preserved many important materials of the official service system in the Song Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, Luo was the main fabric of official clothes, and hundreds of thousands of flowers and Suluo were presented in Jiangsu and Zhejiang every year. High-grade silk fabrics also include tight silk, through back, separate weaving, twill, brocade, crepe, crepe, silk and so on. Because of the old system of five generations living under one roof, the government will give the pro-expensive ministers seven different colors of brocade robes every year as usual. The colors of official uniforms follow the Tang system, with purple being more than three, Zhu being more than five, green being more than seven and green being more than nine. The style of official uniforms is roughly similar to the long-sleeved official uniforms in the late Tang Dynasty, but the first clothes (crowns and hats, etc.). ) It is already a flat-winged black silk hat, named Straight Foot, which has been customized. The servant of the police officer is required to wear a bent-wing hoe with its wings bent backwards and upwards. The official clothes of the Song Dynasty followed the system of wearing fish in the Tang Dynasty. Officials who are qualified to wear purple and scarlet official uniforms must tie a "fish bag" around their waist, which contains fish made of gold, silver and copper to distinguish official products. "Curved collar in the square" is also a feature of the imperial costume, that is, the ornaments under the circle are placed on the items of the imperial costume.
In addition to official clothes and uniforms, the daily casual clothes of officials in Song Dynasty are mainly small sleeve round neck shirts and soft-winged hoes, which are still in Tang style, but their feet are replaced with casual shoes that are more convenient for daily life.
The representative costumes of the old people in the Song Dynasty are wide-body robes and large-sleeved Dongpo towels. The robe was edged with dark cloth to keep the ancient style. Dongpo towel is a square towel, which is said to have been created by Su Dongpo, a great writer. It is actually a revival of ancient towels. Old gentry in the Ming Dynasty often wore them.
The clothes of working people have become shorter, because although production has developed, life has become poorer and poorer. Farmers and fishermen began to be called short-sleeved men.
The rise and fall of the clothing system in Song Dynasty was mostly related to fashion. As can be seen from the Riverside Map on Qingming Festival, people in the upper class often wear neat robes, which can cover their feet. Ordinary people's activities are to stroke their sleeves and tie their legs. Many costumes reflect the worship of Song people in style, color and pattern. Women's wear is different from tang style, which pays attention to thinness to show thinness; The new spiral coat and Hu suit are novel, generous and elegant. In addition to official uniforms, common folk costumes use more complex and harmonious colors. Ordinary aristocrats and bureaucratic women, although not as gorgeous as in the Tang Dynasty, are bold in color matching, breaking the habit of taking cyan, blue, red and blue as the main colors in the Tang Dynasty. Because Tomb-Sweeping Day has to wear a white dress to sweep the grave, and "mourning clothes" are popular, it looks good to wear white mourning clothes. At that time, the materials of clothes and hats began to use valerian (printed silk) and needle gold (silk woven with gold thread), and the patterns broke through the symmetrical patterns in the Tang Dynasty, especially the colorful and wrinkled flowers were more fashionable. On the one hand, these new styles of clothing are often quoted by Guanbai clothing and Mingfu clothing, on the other hand, they are prohibited by Shu Ren clothing and merchant clothing. At the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, the fashion that showed social progress was called "strange scarf and different clothes", but it constantly fought for beauty and beauty.
There are two kinds of fashions in Song Dynasty: ① Inheritance and development of traditional costumes. Spinning coat is the most representative and popular. Its style is similar to that of the Tang Dynasty's new Hu fu and knee short coat. Its characteristics are as follows: first, a kind of lace called "collar rub" is inlaid on the straight collar, and colored embroidery with twisted gold thread is used to renovate the pattern in four seasons, which is called "one year scenery". Embroidery artists are all from the hands of temple owners, and there is a special market in Suoguo Temple in Tokyo to occupy two corridors; Second, it is open, without buttons (so it can't be called open), so that it can show its waist and abdomen (or goose yellow, called waist yellow); Third, small sleeve, cuffs and wrists are tight, which is different from back (vest) or half arm (half sleeve). (2) Absorbing the costumes of the surrounding ethnic minorities. Fishing docks are the most representative. It's women's pantyhose, with no waistband and separate legs. They are different in color from felt hats, elbow shoes and clothes. They all belonged to the customs of Khitan and Jurchen at that time and could not be banned. Zhu Zeng sighed with emotion: "The clothes in this world are mostly Hu clothes", which shows that the folk customs are wide and prosperous.
Folk first clothes were also very popular in Song Dynasty. Men are popular with hoes and scarves, while women are popular with crowns and hijabs. Women's hair style and corolla were the focus of people's pursuit of beauty at that time, which best reflected the changes of clothing in Song Dynasty. The crown of women in Tang and Five Dynasties has become more and more dangerous, and the crown of women in Song Dynasty has further developed and changed. Usually put a flower and bird comb on the bun, and there is no surprise. Simple, the hair is made into magnolia bud type; Complex, flying, like a bird ceremony, and even a flower-like tower. The latter is probably modeled after the unique peony flower "Paris polyphylla" at that time, made of silk and added to the high bun. Later, it was higher than 3 feet, and the angle comb used was also larger than 1 2 inches. The fashion of high bun and dangerous clothes is increasing day by day, and it is necessary to limit the size by law, but it is useless to ban it. Only when new tricks become popular can we transfer our previous hobbies. As for the crests of empresses and princesses, they pay attention to making various patterns with gold, jade and pearls, and some show the story of a large group of fairies and the queen mother going to a flat peach banquet by pinching silk, which is called the "Queen Mother Team", which is equivalent to putting a music and dance model on the top of their heads, with their arms upturned and their shoulders hanging down behind them. This kind of hat is called equal shoulder crown. There is also a hijab, which is a necessary thing for the literati couple to go out. It is covered with a towel, which is called a powerful towel. It was especially popular in the Southern Song Dynasty. Because Zhu advocated it, it was later called "Wen" Sell gold headscarves at weddings.
Liao, Xixia and Jin Costumes Liao, Xixia and Jin were regimes established by Qidan, Tangut and Jurchen in ancient China respectively, and their costumes reflected the development track of their respective national traditions in the long-term cultural exchange with the Han nationality.
Tangut women wear Hu clothes with lapels and the neckline is beautifully embroidered. Khitan and jurchen usually wear long coats and boots with narrow sleeves and knees, which are suitable for hunting immediately; Women wear long gowns with narrow sleeves and collars, and they are all left-handed. Contrary to the Han people, the fishing piers they used to wear are widely popular in the mainland. In addition, among the men's and women's costumes unearthed from the tombs of the Jin Dynasty nobles in Acheng, Heilongjiang Province, there is also a kind of crotch pants with the waist closed at the front and the slit at the back, and the cuffs are also attached with a waist seal (the format is like today's fitness pants). The front waist is chest high, with shoulder straps on it and three pairs of shoulder straps, which can stop at the chest. The shape is very similar to that of the quilt unearthed from the Chu tomb of the Warring States Period in Mashan, Jiangling, and perhaps similar to that of Hanshu.
At that time, the hair styles of northern ethnic men were generally curly hair, that is, the hair on the top of the head was shaved off, and the rest were draped or braided to the ear. Only people who have status or pay a lot of camel and horse property are allowed to wrap their hair with towels, which is similar to the practice in the Tang Dynasty.
Considering the reality of living together with the Han nationality, the Liao and Jin regimes were used to setting up the system of "Southern Officials", ruling the Han nationality in China together with the Han nationality, and adopting the old system of official uniforms in Tang and Song Dynasties for Han officials. The embroidery patterns of mountains, rivers, birds and beasts on the silk official uniforms in Liao Dynasty distinguished official products, which affected the grade identification of official uniforms in Ming and Qing Dynasties. In the Jin Dynasty, the rank was determined by the size of the pattern on the official dress, and the lowest rank was sesame Luo with no grain or small diamond grain, from which the proverb "Sesame Official" came. The men's wear of Khitan and Jurchen is also adopted by Han people because it is easy to move. For example, in the portrait of "Four Generals of Zhongxing", the casual clothes of the generals around Han Shizhong and Yue Fei, the famous anti-gold generals, are no different from those of Guinness.
In the first year of Yuanyou (13 14), considering the ancient and modern Mongolian and Chinese costume system, the costume colors of the upper and lower officials and people were uniformly stipulated. In the Han dynasty, the official uniforms were mostly Tang-style round collars and hoes. Mongolian officials wear collared clothes and square corrugated hats; For the convenience of galloping at once, the most fashionable in the middle and lower classes are plaited coats (round neck tight sleeve robe, wide hem, plaited waist) and Dai Li hats.
Long gowns in the Yuan Dynasty are commonly known as robes. There is little difference in styles between men and women in the north, and the materials are fine and thick, but there are great differences. Senior official uniforms mostly use bright red brocade, and the grade is determined according to the size of flowers according to the gold system, while junior clerks are only allowed to use brown silk. Generally speaking, it is forbidden for civilians to use dragon and phoenix patterns and golden colors, and only dark silk is allowed. In the twenty-second year of Zhiyuan, it was also ordered that "all musicians, prostitutes, wine sellers and police officers should not wear flowery clothes". Because of the ban, working people were encouraged to create different browns according to local materials, up to forty or fifty names, which later influenced the emperor to make an exception and adopt browns.
Hair style, Han men have not changed much, and northern Han women are simpler than before. Mongolian men hang a small lock of top hair from their forehead or keep it in a peach shape, and the rest are braided into a big ring or twisted shape and hung behind their ears, including emperors; Women usually wear a bun, while nobles wear a menstruation crown, which is as high as two or three feet (Figure 1 1). The emperor especially likes all kinds of hats, which are made of exquisite and precious materials and decorated with pearls and jade to show their dignity.
In the Yuan Dynasty, various textiles appeared, such as Nashiya Gold, Mixed Gold Zigzag, Jindianzi, Douluojin, Sanling, Dasi, Suu, Nansi, Beisi, Hibiscus and Fanjin. During the Yuan Dynasty, there were 10 many times a year. At that time, thousands of officials wore high-grade dresses with the same color and style and decorated with gems and jewels, which was called high-quality sun clothes, which was rare in past dynasties. In the Ming dynasty, this kind of clothing was used as a police costume. It is not uncommon in history that the Hanfu of the previous generation has become the cheap clothing of the later generation, which is an inevitable phenomenon that the change of dynasties affects the change of clothing. The dress system in Yuan Dynasty was similar to that in Liao and Jin Dynasties.
The Yuan Dynasty was ruled by Mongols, so the costumes of the Yuan Dynasty were also quite special. Mongolians often braid a small lock of hair on their foreheads, like peaches. Others braid it into two braids, and then wrap it into two big rings to hang behind their ears, wearing Dai Li hats on their heads. The clothes of people in the Yuan Dynasty were mainly "drying clothes", which were short robes, tight and narrow, with many pleats at the waist. This kind of clothes is very convenient to get on and off the horse.
Noble women in the Yuan Dynasty often wore a tall, long and eccentric hat, which was called the "crown". The robes they wear are wide and long, which makes it inconvenient to walk. They often need two maids to pull their robes behind them. Ordinary civilian women wear black robes.