Key words: pin, hairpin, hairpin, Watson, Yi, bud, step, comb.
We can often see ancient women wearing elegant and gorgeous clothes and beautifully made headdresses in TV dramas. This beautiful scene makes us feel the development of ancient handicraft technology. But when you think about it carefully, what the TV series presents is nothing more than the imitation of ancient headdresses by modern people who advocate simplicity and refer to historical materials. It is not difficult to imagine how wonderful the real ancient headdress is. Here is a brief introduction to the headdress worn by ancient women.
1. 1. Li, Bang, Chai, Yi, Watson
In ancient times, it was used to penetrate or fix hair and crowns. It is recorded in the Book of Rites: "The embarrassment of the skin is the embarrassment of the Jue." Zheng Xuan's note: "Hey, today's hairpin." Ancient women often used a knot to fix their hair. In ancient times, when women came of age, they put their hair up with a spell, so the spell also refers to the rite of passage for women. "In the Soul of Li Yi's Poems": "The woman promised to marry and was praised as a gift." Zheng Xuan's note: "As a gift for women, it is still the crown of men." "Book of Rites": "Five out of ten women are embarrassed." Zheng Xuan's Note: "It is said that they will get married within this year, so they can say so. He is not allowed to get married, and twenty people are embarrassed. "
The hairpin was developed from the hairpin, which was a long needle used by the ancients to fix the bun or crown. Can be made of metal, bone, jade, etc. Later, it specifically refers to women's bun jewelry. Yi, hairpin, make your head into a hairpin that can scratch your head, so it is commonly called scratching your head. Miscellanies of Xijing records that when Emperor Wu visited Li Furen, he scratched his head with a jade hairpin. From then on, everyone in the harem scratched their heads with a jade hairpin. "The History of the Later Han Dynasty: Fish Fu Zhi" has: "Huang Jinlong's first title is white pearl, and the fish must bow, one foot long, which is called hairpin." Record.
Hairpin is a kind of jewelry composed of two hairpins. It is used to fix the hair, and it is also used to fix the hat on the hair. Notes on Chai Zi in Ancient and Modern China in the Five Dynasties: "Chai Zi covered the ancient monument. In Qin Mugong, it was made of ivory, and the king was awarded the honor of tortoise shell. At the beginning, the emperor was also made of gold and silver as a phoenix head, tortoise shell as a phoenix foot, and posthumous title as a phoenix hairpin. " There is a difference between a hairpin and a hairpin. Hairpins are made into one strand, and hairpins are generally made into two strands.
Watson means Watson. A flower-shaped jewelry of ancient women, usually made in the shape of flowers and plants, inserted in a bun or embroidered on the forehead. Interpretation of names and jewelry: "Watson, Hua, like flowers of vegetation; Winning, people describe it as waiting, one person wins it, and the front is decorated. " Biography of Han Sima Xiangru: "The bald head is Dai Sheng, and the point is Xi." Tang Yan stone drum note; "Victory is also a woman's jewelry, and the Han Dynasty was called Watson."
rock
Walking is a kind of jewelry attached to the hairpin by ancient women. Interpretation of names and jewelry: "Beads are hung on the steps, and the steps are also shaken." The Book of the Later Han Dynasty: "Walking with gold as the theme ..." Wang Xianqian quoted Chen Xiangdao as saying: "In the Han Dynasty, walking with gold was a phoenix, with a mansion under it, a coffin in front of it, and five ornaments to collect jade. If you hang down, you will shake. " Bai Juyi used this sentence in Song of Eternal Sorrow: "The clouds in her hair, the petals on her cheeks, and the golden ripples in her crown when she walked are covered by warm hibiscus curtains on spring nights." To describe yang guifei.
In ancient times, women tied their hair into a bun and fixed it with a hairpin to prevent the bun from sagging loosely. There are many forms of ancient hairpin, including stone, bamboo, jade, bone, gold, silver and other materials. With the development of the times, these hairpins have also changed. It can be seen from the diverse hairpin styles left over from the past dynasties that the changes are mainly concentrated in the hair pin head, and the common ones are: (1) dome shape and hairpin shape. (2) The top shape and hairpin of the flower are the same as the top, except that the top is engraved with patterns such as plum, lotus, chrysanthemum and peach; (3) The shape of the ear-digging spoon is made of metal or jade, with a slightly flat body and a wide upper end, which obviously converges to the neck and bends forward to form the ear-digging spoon, so that one thing can be used for two purposes; (4) Ruyi shape, in which the hair pin body is round or flat, and the hair pin body is bent forward, showing Ruyi head shape; (5) Animal-shaped hairpin jewelry with animals and birds, such as dragons, phoenixes, unicorns, swallows, finches, swimming fish, etc.
Hairpins of these shapes are sometimes found in ancient tombs all over the country. For example, in 848, a double-phoenix-patterned gold-plated silver hairpin and a hollow chrysanthemum-patterned hairpin were unearthed from the tomb of Tang Dazhong in Jiahui village in the southern suburbs of Xi, with a beautiful image. Among the gold and silver jewelry unearthed from Guo Mu's tomb in the Tang Dynasty in Huanggang, Guangzhou, there are flowers and birds, flowers, spikes, branches and balls. They are made by molding, carving, cutting and chiseling. Each flower is in duplicate, with the same pattern but opposite directions, so we know that it is inserted left and right.
Flower Hairpins in Tang Dynasty: (1) Kembei Collection in Stockholm (2) Unearthed from the Tang Tomb of Gangdi in Guangzhou (3) Chrysanthemum Hairpins in Tang Dynasty (Xi 'an) (4) Shuangfeng Hairpins in Tang Dynasty (Xi 'an).
In Bao Diannian's tomb in Nantang, the western suburb of Hefei City, Anhui Province, a 28-cm-long gold-inlaid jade walking stone was unearthed. The upper end of the walking rock spreads like wings, decorated with finely carved jade pieces, and the lower part is decorated with falling beads and jade. The other piece is 18 cm long, with four butterflies flying at the top and pearls and jade ornaments hanging down, all beautifully made.
2.3 Combs and flowers
Grate, a comb tool with higher density than comb. It also refers to combing hair with a comb to remove hair scales. Tang Li and the poem "Qin Gong": "Luan Bi wins the full moon and people don't get drunk." Wang Qi explained: "Grate, so decontamination, with bamboo as it, the image of Luan grate is Luan."
Flowers, flower-like ornaments made of gold, silver, jade and shellfish. Song and Ming Ying Xing's "Heavenly Creations and Jade": "Every jade is broken and used as a flower." Zhong Note: "Flower-shaped ornaments are made of precious things, such as gold, mother-of-pearl, precious stones, emeralds and jade."
China pays attention to etiquette since ancient times, and people attach great importance to their appearance and decoration. Combs were a necessity in ancient times. Women, in particular, are almost inseparable from their bodies, and after a long time, they will form a grooming atmosphere.
Several pieces of Qin Dynasty woodcut arenas unearthed in Jiangling, Hubei Province are horseshoe-shaped and painted with three people as arenas. Combs unearthed from the Western Han tombs at Mawangdui No.1 in Changsha, Hunan Province are all horseshoe-shaped with an average length of 8.8 cm and an average width of 5.9 cm. The comb has 20 teeth and 47 teeth, which are fine and even. The Western Han Dynasty wooden combs unearthed from Yinque Mountain in Linyi, Shandong Province and Jinan City in Jiangling, Hubei Province have a straight back with four decorative buttons. The bronze comb unearthed from the tomb of Tang Dynasty in the south gate of Changsha, Hunan Province has been damaged, and there are clear patterns on the back, making two birds wander and fly. An exquisite bone comb was unearthed in Miaodigou, Shan County, Henan Province.
Hairpins are used to clip hair, while flower buds are directly inserted into a good bun for decoration.
Judging from the information currently available, as early as 4000 years ago, our ancestors had the habit of inserting combs. At that time, although it was not entirely for decoration (some were related to religion and funeral customs), it was the origin of the custom of inserting combs in later generations.
Combs before the Spring and Autumn Period, no matter how complicated the modeling and exquisite the decoration, have basically the same appearance characteristics, all of which are vertical, with a high handle and a narrow cross section, and rarely square or flat.
From the Warring States to the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, the materials of combs were mainly bamboo, especially wood. Combs are mostly shaped like horseshoes under a circle.
Combs were popular on women's heads from the Wei and Jin Dynasties until the Tang Dynasty. This kind of comb is usually made of precious materials such as gold, silver, jade and rhinoceros. The method of inserting and wearing can be found in the paintings of the Tang Dynasty, such as Natalie's Tao Ren, Zhou Fang's Mrs. Wan Fan and the murals of Tang diners in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. Yuan Zhen described in "Hate Makeup": "Use a small comb to cover your head and a cymbal to cover your face." In Wang Jian's Gong Ci, there is also a description of "Don't give a comb when you come back", which just shows the fashion of inserting combs.
Combs in Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties were mostly trapezoidal, and their height was obviously reduced. Their materials and decorations vary according to their uses. After the Song Dynasty, combs tended to be flat, usually made into a half-moon shape. The combing style in Ming and Qing Dynasties basically maintained the Song system.
4. Conclusion
From the headdress of ancient women, we can see the economic situation of social development at that time. The more developed the economy, the more headdresses women wear, and the more elaborate and complicated they make. Women wear headdresses with status, and people with different status wear different headdresses on different occasions. This can be seen from the Book of the Later Han Dynasty that the jewelry worn by the Empress Dowager Tai and the Empress Dowager entered the palace: "The hairpin is a bow, one foot long, with Watson as the end, the phoenix as the emperor, the jade as the feather, and the white pearl and gold tweezers hanging down. There is a horizontal pin on the left and right to fix the knot. All needles are made in the same system and their grades are different. "
"The Queen's Temple is covered with fake knots and swaying. Taking gold as the theme, taking white beads as cassia twig, a topic of nine grades, bears, tigers, red pheasants, deer, exorcism and Nanshan are rich and special, and the poem is called' Six Yoga'. All lords and beasts use jadeite as feathers. Gold title, white beads around, jade as the rhyme. " "Gong, Qing, Lie Hou, Zhong 2,000 stones, Ma 2,000 stones, and the first one is white beads, and the fish must be one foot long, that is, hairpin." It is also recorded in the Book of the Old Tang Dynasty: "Wu Deling, the queen's clothes include weft clothes, bow clothes and hairpin clothes." Weft suit, first
Decorated with twelve trees and two magnificent temples ... Clams and cymbals ...; The crown prince's princess dress, nine trees for jewelry, ... fine hairpin clothes, nine cymbals ... women at home and abroad are ordered to wear flower hairpin, Zhai Yi green, first-class flower buds and nine trees, fast wine and so on. The second products are Huaya Bashu, Zhaiba and so on. The third product is the bud in seven trees, Zhai in seven trees and so on. The fourth product is the bud in six trees, Zhai in six trees and so on. The fifth product is five trees, five trees and five trees. Gifts for hair clips, ... nine cymbals for one product, eight cymbals for two products, seven cymbals for three products, six cymbals for four products and five cymbals for five products. "
The headdress of ancient women is an indispensable part of ancient civilization. In the process of civilization inheritance, we have learned a lot and abandoned a lot. In the fast-paced modern life, people who advocate simplicity no longer wear gorgeous and complicated headdresses like those in ancient times, but headdresses such as hairpin and hairpin have not disappeared, but have been simplified. In daily life, it is often seen that women use simple and generous hair clips to clip their hair. I hope that hairpin, as an important part of costume culture, can continue to develop and pass on. Such a bright pearl is indispensable to the bright crown of Chinese civilization.