The emergence and development of Nanjing brocade is closely related to the urban history of Nanjing. The silk industry in Nanjing can be traced back to the Soochow period of the Three Kingdoms (222-280) and the last years of the Eastern Jin Dynasty (3 17-420). After the Northern Expedition by the generals and the Qin Dynasty, all the workers in Chang 'an moved to Jiankang (now Nanjing), among which brocade craftsmen accounted for a large proportion. Brocade craftsmen in the late Qin Dynasty inherited the brocade skills of ethnic minorities in the Han Dynasty, Cao Wei, Western Jin Dynasty and the early Sixteen Countries. In 4 17, the brocade department was established in Jiankang in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, which was regarded as the symbol of the formal birth of Nanjing Yunjin. Since the Yuan Dynasty, Yunjin has been a special product for royal clothing. In the Ming Dynasty, the brocade technology became more and more mature and perfect, forming the local characteristics of Nanjing silk jacquard brocade. Cao Yin, the grandfather of Cao Xueqin, the author of A Dream of Red Mansions, worked as a weaver in Jiangning for 20 years. There are many kinds of brocade in this period, with solemn patterns and bright colors, which represents the highest achievement of Nanjing brocade technology in history. In its heyday, Nanjing Yunjin Weaving had more than 30,000 looms, and nearly 300,000 people lived in it and related industries. It was the largest handicraft industry in Nanjing at that time. After 1949, the government has invested tens of millions of yuan in the restoration and protection of brocade, and Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute has also successfully and scientifically copied the "plain gauze clothes" unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province in the 1970s, and the Ming Wanli Emperor's "brocade peacock feathers and makeup gauze robes" unearthed from Dingling of the Ming Tombs in Beijing. However, brocade is still facing the situation of no successor, and now the whole country really understands brocade technology. Yunjin used to be used exclusively by the imperial court or as a meritorious reward. Modern brocade inherits the traditional style of Ming and Qing dynasties and develops. Traditional varieties are Zhuanghua, Kujin and Ku Sa Ding (see "Zhuanghua", "Kujin" and "Ku Sa Ding"). Ku brocade and Ku brocade were imported into the "satin library" of the Ministry of the Interior after weaving in the Qing Dynasty, and they are still in use today. Cosmetic fabric is a variety that represents the technical characteristics and style of Yunjin. The pattern layout is rigorous and solemn, and the pattern modeling is concise and summarized. Most of them are large full patterns arranged in four directions continuously. There are also large cosmetic fabrics (such as robes, kang mattresses and mats in the Ming and Qing Dynasties). ) completely single, suitable for the model. Rich and bright colors, decorative patterns are often edged with gold or gold and silver threads, and transition with white or halo. After 1949, innovative varieties were created on the basis of traditional varieties, such as yuhua brocade, Dunhuang brocade, gold and silver makeup, Jin Ling, decorative brocade, tablecloth and cushion. To meet the needs of Mongolian and Tibetan brothers in clothing, painting and calligraphy mounting, tourist souvenirs and foreign trade. Until 2009, few people knew about Yunjin, even Nanjing people. There are even fewer books about Yunjin. Yunjin in Nanjing, China, published by Nanjing Publishing House, can not only satisfy the curiosity of viewers, but also serve as a desk book for Yunjin researchers. Mr. Li Xifan, a famous red scientist, praised this book for "fully displaying the beauty of clouds and brocade". By the end of 2009, Yunjin not only exported high-grade clothing fabrics, ethnic costumes and performance costumes, but also developed new varieties of daily-use handicrafts such as Yunjin tablecloth, cushion, quilt cover, bag, vest, tie, hanging screen, mobile phone case, table runner, Yunjin pen container and business card box. Over the past 40 years, researchers in Nanjing Yunjin have worked hard to gradually restore the endangered Nanjing Yunjin weaving technology, collected and sorted out Yunjin patterns and drawings, trained artists, restored the lost varieties of "double-sided brocade", "concave-convex brocade" and "cosmetic yarn", and copied the plain-yarn Zen clothes in Han Dynasty, the boy playing with peach silk in Song Dynasty and the makeup sarong in Ming Dynasty. At present, Nanjing Yunjin has developed a variety of craft gifts and consumer goods, such as clothing, craft screens and daily ornaments, for the market. , welcomed by the market.