Qin and Han dynasties
The weaving and embroidery skills in Qin and Han dynasties, especially in Han dynasty, have made great progress on the basis of inheriting the tradition of Warring States. There are many varieties of silk weaving, such as brocade, silk, silk, silk, silk, silk, silk and so on.
The patterns of silk fabrics in Han Dynasty include clouds, animals, flowers, auspicious characters and various geometric patterns. The production technology of silk weaving in Han dynasty has been very exquisite. A plain-yarn Zen dress was unearthed from the No.1 Han Tomb in Mawangdui, Changsha, Hunan, with a length of 128cm and a sleeve length of 190cm, weighing only 49 grams, less than one or two, which shows that it is extremely exquisite.
The stitch method of embroidery in Han dynasty is mainly braided embroidery, also known as lock embroidery, which is characterized by neat stitch and firm embroidery line. A large number of embroidery products have been unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb, which are rich in variety and beautifully made. ?
Three Kingdoms, Jin Dynasty, Southern and Northern Dynasties
Brocade in the Six Dynasties was famous for its Sichuan brocade. "Danyang Ji" said: "There is no brocade in the past dynasties, and Chengdu is the only wonder. Therefore, during the Three Kingdoms, Wei was in Shu, and Wu also went to West Shu. This is the beginning. " It can be seen that Shu brocade is a high-grade silk product that Wei and Wu competed for during the Three Kingdoms period.
Embroidery patterns in the Six Dynasties developed and changed on the basis of inheriting the tradition of the Han Dynasty, which changed the irregular change format of moire patterns in the Han Dynasty, formed a regular wavy skeleton, formed a geometric dividing line, and became more stylized.
Sui and Tang Dynasties
Textile and embroidery techniques in the Tang Dynasty were very developed. The feudal central government set up a weaving and dyeing department to manage production with a fine division of labor. Folk weaving and embroidery production is almost all over the country, and the output is very large.
The weaving and embroidery techniques of the Tang Dynasty strive for gorgeous color effects. There are many varieties of silk fabrics, among which brocade is the most famous, generally called "Tang brocade". It is a kind of warp stripe structure, starting from weft, with two or three layers of warp sandwiched between weft. Therefore, it is different from the traditional weaving method of starting flowers with warp threads in the Han, Wei and Six Dynasties before the Tang Dynasty. It was called "Jing Jin" in Han Dynasty and "Wei Jin" in Tang Dynasty. The advantage of weft brocade is that it can weave complex decorative patterns and gorgeous color effects. In addition, on the basis of traditional patterns, Tang Jin absorbed foreign decorative patterns, thus having a fresh, gorgeous and rich artistic style. The decorative patterns of Tang brocade include Julian pattern, regiment pattern, symmetrical pattern and scattered flowers.
Embroidery in the Tang Dynasty developed in a more refined direction because its foundation was too popular and profound: under the social system of men plowing and women weaving, millions of girls in Qian Qian had to learn "needlework" and master embroidery. In this way, the rich ladies living in the deep house compound, embroidery has become their only activity for recreation, self-cultivation and spiritual creation, and gradually formed "boudoir embroidery".
Song dynasty; surname
On the basis of traditional production in the Tang Dynasty, silk weaving in the Song Dynasty made new progress. The brocade of the Song Dynasty has the characteristics of the times and is called Song Brocade. It is characterized by the use of small flowers, regular patterns, various Bada halo, turtle back patterns, lock patterns, running water and so on. Strict organizational rules and quiet and elegant tone. Jin Song is not only used for clothing, gifts, economy and trade, but also a special material for mounting calligraphy and painting, which is loved by painters.
Silk reeling is a new kind of silk fabrics. Silk has many names, such as carved silk, silk, silk and so on. Silk reeling is mainly woven into painting or calligraphy, which embodies the differentiation of silk weaving technology from practical to ornamental. The main producing area of silk in the Song Dynasty was Dingzhou, Hebei Province in the Northern Song Dynasty. In the Southern Song Dynasty, Yun Jian (Songjiang) was the center, and famous artists came forth in large numbers.
Embroidery in Song Dynasty was exquisite in skill and elegant in color. Like silk reeling, it developed into an appreciation and became a later painting embroidery. Embroidery in Song Dynasty was organized and managed by Embroidery Academy, and folk embroidery was also developed and could be sold as a commodity. ?
Yuan dynasty (1206- 1368)
Weaving and embroidery techniques in Yuan Dynasty, such as silk weaving, wool weaving and cotton textile, all developed to varying degrees.
Silk weaving is characterized by weaving gold. Weaving gold was called "throwing stones" or "throwing stones" in the Yuan Dynasty. The rulers of the Yuan Dynasty liked to use gold, and "everything takes gold as the most important thing", so weaving gold became a fashion needed by life. The patterns of gold and gold are Tuan Long, Tuan Feng, Bao Xiang Hua, turtle back pattern, palindrome and so on. Wool was particularly developed in the Yuan Dynasty because it met the needs of Mongolian nomads, and was mostly used as carpets, mattresses, saddles, shoes and hats. Wool is mainly produced in Hehe Forest, Ningxia, and cotton textile is a new technology developed in Yuan Dynasty. There was no cotton in ancient China, which was called "Northern Hebei". At first, it was only planted in the northwest and southwest. Huang Daopo, a cotton textile craftsman, contributed greatly to the popularization of the Yuan Dynasty in China. At that time, the "black mud well quilt" in Songjiang area became a famous product in the north and south of the river.
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By the Ming Dynasty, embroidery and silk weaving had made great progress. China has four silk producing areas: Jiangnan, Shanxi, Sichuan and Fujian-Guangzhou, with Jiangnan as the main producing area.
Brocade has the characteristics of the times and is called Ming Brocade. There are three main varieties of Ming brocade, namely satin, gold and silver weaving and make-up flowers. Ku satin is a kind of natural colored flower, which is light and soft. Weaving gold and silver means weaving gold or silver thread in brocade, which is elegant and luxurious; The most exquisite is the makeup flower, which is woven with a tube, that is, each flower is woven with different colors of thread, with many colors and large flowers, which has gorgeous artistic effects. The patterns of Ming brocade include flowers, broken branches, tied branches and geometric patterns. Twisting branches is the main structure of Ming brocade, which has the characteristics of the times. The brocade patterns in the Ming Dynasty are rich and colorful, including Yunlong crane, flowers, birds and butterflies, auspicious brocade patterns and so on. Its shape is simple and generous, and it is full of stylized decorative beauty.
Embroidery is famous for "Gu Embroidery". Gu embroidery is a kind of painting embroidery, embroidering flowers, figures, feathers and landscapes. "The split wire is too thin, and the needle is as thin as a milli." So it became famous for a while and attracted people's attention. This kind of embroidery is mainly for viewing. It was admired and praised by literati, so it had a great influence at that time and was the representative of embroidery technology.
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Silk weaving in Qing Dynasty, Nanjing, Suzhou and Hangzhou have formed national production centers with rich varieties and exquisite weaving. In addition, in Sichuan, Guangdong and other regions, silk weaving technology is also very developed.
The artistic style of silk weaving in Qing dynasty can be roughly divided into three stages: early, middle and late. In the early days, it inherited the traditional characteristics of the Ming Dynasty, and adopted a geometric skeleton with few small flowers and strict rules. The medium-term patterns are complex and colorful, which have a significant impact on European baroque and rococo art; Later, I like to use big flowers with broken branches, which is simple and extensive. The famous varieties of silk weaving in Qing Dynasty are Yunjin, Jin Song and Jin Shu, and antique satin and brocade are also important products.
Embroidery in the Qing Dynasty formed a unique local system such as Suzhou embroidery, Guangdong embroidery, Sichuan embroidery, Hunan embroidery and Beijing embroidery. Suzhou embroidery refers to embroidery made in Suzhou, Jiangsu Province. It has a long history and developed greatly in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The artistic feature of Suzhou embroidery is that it uses multi-color separation method, the embroidery changes greatly and the decorative effect is rich. Because of its harmonious color, elegant appearance and poetic beauty. Guangdong embroidery refers to Guangdong embroidery. Its artistic characteristics are strong and bright colors, and because it likes to use gold thread, it has a magnificent effect. Guangdong embroidery is mainly produced in Guangzhou and Chaozhou. Chaozhou embroidery not only uses gold thread, but also uses pad embroidery to make the embroidery image three-dimensional. Birds and marine animals flying to the phoenix are common embroidery themes. The origin of Shu embroidery is centered on Chengdu, Sichuan, and its artistic characteristics are rich folk colors, simple and natural, heavy and neat. Xiang embroidery originated in the vast rural areas, and the production system was not formed until the Qing Dynasty. He is good at representing animals such as liger, and his images are vivid and lifelike. Beijing embroidery refers to a kind of embroidery developed in the Qing Dynasty to meet the needs of the palace. It is produced in Beijing and its suburbs. Its embroidery method is exquisite and neat, and many small ornaments, such as purse, fan bag and mirror bag, have been made. Besides the embroidery mentioned above, Lu embroidery, Bian embroidery, Ou embroidery and other famous embroidery products all have their own artistic characteristics.