Basic Introduction Chinese Name: Jacquard mbth: Jacquard Pinyin: Jacquard Athena Chu: ?ㄧˊ?ㄨㄚ Definition, introduction, difference, fabric characteristics, detailed introduction, jacquard machine and word definition refer to the concave-convex pattern composed of warp and weft in textiles. Song and Ming Ying Xing's Tiangong Jing: "When weaving flowers, you must use Jia Hu. When the outlet and outlet are dry silk, you can take it with you, and don't worry about it being broken. He saved people by barely jacquard and scribbling. " Cao Jinghua's "Flying Flowers" recalls that year, so don't wait to see the details! "This is a dark blue, natural jacquard silk fabric. I can't name it. "Introduction Jacquard is a concave-convex pattern interwoven by warp and weft in textiles. There are many kinds of textiles, and jacquard fabric is one of them. Jacquard fabrics can be divided into home textile materials and fashion fabrics. As early as the ancient Silk Road, China silk was famous for its jacquard weaving. The difference between printing and jacquard: printed fabrics are printed flowers after cloth is woven, and there are many choices. Jacquard fabric is woven at the time of weaving, and you can't choose flowers after the fabric is formed. Fabric features Jacquard fabrics are widely used, not only for making casual pants, sportswear, suits, etc. , but also to sleep. Clothes made of fabrics are very comfortable and popular. " Elastic satin fabric is made of polyester FDY Dayuang50D * DTY75D+spandex 40D, interwoven with satin weave on air-jet loom. Because the warp yarn is made of bright silk, the fabric surface is beautiful, and it has a place in the fabric market with the advantages of lightness, flexibility, comfort and luster. The fabric structure with satin plain weave is woven on air-jet loom with polyester low elastic yarn as raw material. After desizing, pre-shrinking, softening and other treatments, the fabric is particularly breathable, soft and smooth, and its width is 150cm. Demand is strong, customers order more samples, weaving production and sales are booming, and the transaction price of grey cloth in the market is about 5.80 yuan/meter. In addition, twisted satin has always been favored by clothing manufacturers, mainly used as casual pants, sportswear and bedding. This product is both dyed and printed. The market price of the blank is about 4.40 yuan/meter. The new fabric with comfort, modernity and artistic sense attracts customers with its attractive charm, and its sales volume is also quite good. Jacquard technology is introduced in detail, which originated from the original waist knitting machine and was used in oblique loom and flat knitting machine in Han Dynasty. Jacquard weave is called a kind of pattern weave of knitted fabric, also called "big pattern weave". It is made by knitting a yarn pad on a knitting needle selected according to the pattern requirements. Jacquard can be formed in weft-knitted or warp-knitted, single-sided or double-sided knitted fabrics. Fabric patterns are large and complex, including brocade, satin, silk portrait, silk landscape, jacquard quilt cover and so on. Jacquard needs to be woven on a jacquard loom. Weft-knitted jacquard fabric is composed of two or more knitting systems, which weave a jacquard loop row. Each looping system loops only on those needles selected according to the pattern requirements, and the non-looping needles stop working, so that new yarn will not be placed on these needles, old loops will not be removed from these needles, and jacquard loops will not be removed from newly formed loops until the next looping system loops. Terry jacquard weft knitted tricolor jacquard fabric tricolor jacquard fabric consists of three knitting systems to form a jacquard loop row. Among them, red, black and white threads are woven into loop systems of 1, 2 and 3 respectively, so that the front surface is composed of three color threads, and the back surface is composed of two color threads arranged at intervals. There are many kinds of weft-knitted jacquard, which can be divided into single-sided and double-sided according to the structure; According to the color, it is divided into monochrome and multicolor. Single-sided jacquard can be divided into uniform jacquard and uneven jacquard according to whether the coil size is the same or not. Uneven jacquard is widely used in socks and coat fabrics. Double-sided jacquard can be divided into complete jacquard and incomplete jacquard according to weave structure. In each knitting system, all the dial needles participate in knitting the reverse stitch, which is called a complete jacquard weave; The weave formed by alternating dial is called incomplete jacquard weave. Incomplete jacquard is commonly used in production, with clear pattern, stable structure and small extensibility and detachability. The pattern of weft-knitted jacquard knitted fabric can be changed at will within a certain range, and it is widely used in various coats and decorative articles. Warp-knitted jacquard refers to the knitting process of warp knitting machine, in which some needles form elongated loops without padding and open weave. When this kind of tissue is formed, the guide bar does not penetrate completely, and the needles corresponding to the empty guide wires are not stuffed and closed, so new yarns are not stuffed on these needles, and old loops are not taken off from these needles, thus forming elongated loops. Warp-knitted jacquard usually uses embossed plates to make the selected needles loose. The notch of the embossing plate must correspond to the empty guide needle in the guide bar, and the embossing plate must cooperate with the guide bar and move horizontally together. Warp-knitted jacquard fabrics are widely used in clothing and decorations. Jacquards usually use pedals to control healds (devices that lift warp yarns) to weave patterns. In order to weave patterns, it is necessary to increase the number of heald frames. Two heald frames can only weave plain weave, 3-4 heald frames can weave twill weave and more than 5 heald frames can weave satin weave. Therefore, in order to weave complex flowers with large pattern cycle, the warp yarns must be divided into more groups, and the multi-heald and multi-climbing jacquard loom is gradually formed. According to Xijing Miscellaneous Notes, ChenBaoGuang's wife weaves loose silk, so many healds are very complicated to weave. In the Three Kingdoms, they all changed from 60 healds to 12 healds, and adopted the method of heddle jacquard, which not only facilitated the operation but also improved the efficiency. The pattern jacquard of electronic jacquard rapier loom appeared in the Eastern Han Dynasty, also known as the greenhouse. It represents the highest achievement of ancient textile technology in China. It uses a line book to store the jacquard program, and then draws the warp opening with curves. This pattern book is a set of programs for storing pattern information on jacquard machine, which is woven by foot thread representing warp yarn and ear thread representing weft yarn according to pattern requirements. When boarding the plane, the pin thread is connected with the fiber thread of the lifting warp. At this time, pulling the pin thread on one side of the ear cord can play the role of lifting the related warp thread. When weaving, two people cooperate, one is a flower puller, sitting on a three-foot high flower floor to pull flowers and lift healds, and the other is a pedal weft insertion. In Wang Yi's "On the Robot Woman" in the Eastern Han Dynasty, the scene of the cooperation between the weaver and the jacquard worker in operating the jacquard machine was described.