Current location - Music Encyclopedia - Today in History - Clothing differences of Buyi costumes
Clothing differences of Buyi costumes
Buyi people living on both sides of the north and south Panjiang River have always maintained their traditional national costumes. Buyi men's wear and women's wear are very different, but clothing is made by Buyi women with fabrics that are self-spun, self-woven, self-dyed and self-embroidered. Indigo used for indigo dyeing is made by soaking and filtering with "Lilium multiflorum". People use indigo to dye cloth in dark blue, medium blue, light blue, gray, dark gray, cyan and moonlight. Dyed cloth is divided into big barrels and small barrels. Vats are washed and dyed. Before weaving, there are floral plaid handkerchiefs, headscarves and floral plaid belts with white background. Dyeing after weaving is a kind of cloth bleached by ancient methods such as morning dew. If it is dyed green, it will be dyed in a small dye vat at home. If it is dyed in other colors, it must be dyed in a professional washing and dyeing home. Before washing and dyeing, put indigo into the dyeing vat and add some raw materials such as water, lime, liquor and soil alkali. Then put on the white cloth after chemical reaction, take it off and wash it for many times until the cloth has been dyed to the required color. Then spread the glue made of cowhide on the cloth, and roll the cloth flat with your feet on a stone roller until it is shiny. Dyeing blue cloth in a small jar means putting indigo into a small jar, adding appropriate amount of water, adding appropriate amount of raw materials such as lime, alkali, white wine or rice wine to make it chemically change, and then putting the white cloth into the jar and boiling it with water. After taking out of the can, take it three times a day and rinse it once every three days. This is called "headwind". A good urn needs only three winds, and a bad urn needs to be dyed with four winds before it can be used as medicine. "Medication" is to take wild sugar pear skin and red seed prickly skin and boil them in water to make purple juice, then dip the dyed cloth in the purple juice, take it out and dry it, and then dip it in the dyeing vat three times a day. Three days later, after the final washing and drying, the ideal green cloth was made. There are three processes for dyeing blue cloth, which are indispensable, especially "dosing". When developing photos, dosing is as important as fixing color and polishing.

Embroidery, called "Valley Embroidery" in Buyi language, is another traditional textile processing of Zhenfeng Buyi people. Embroidery is a skill that Buyi girls must learn. Buyi young men often regard it as one of the important criteria for choosing a spouse, and it is also a concrete manifestation of women's intelligence and creativity. Embroidery is generally carried out by cutting and pasting pictures on satin. There are dozens of them, such as "Gao Gui Left", "Gui Za Numb", "Gui Ba Du", "Yin Gui Dog", "Wan Haizi" and "Sewer Old". Patterns are mostly pavilions, fish, shrimp, dragons and snakes, river sails, birds and animals, flowers and trees, landscapes and pastoral areas. And there are characters and legendary fairy tales. The whole picture is exquisite and chic, simple and elegant. Embroidery can be used as decoration for clothes, curtains, tablecloths, quilts, suspenders, headscarves, wallets, bags, uppers, handkerchiefs and so on.

Spinning: Tie the prepared flower strips to the spinning machine and shake them into spindles, then turn the spindles back to the coils, take off the coils and soak them in clear water, then put them in white rice pulp for about two hours, then take them out and hang them on long bamboo poles to dry. The purpose of this sizing is to improve the tension and stiffness of cotton thread. After air drying, the thread is wound on the bobbin to form a thread spindle, and then the thread spindles are arranged on the bobbin one by one for traction. How long and how wide the cloth should be made depends on the number of spindles and the number of cotton threads when it is pulled. These lines are all warps, and the number of warps determines the width and thickness of the cloth. The warp has always been an even line, not an odd one, which is fixed by the reed door. Bamboo has 360,384,408,432,456,480 threads. After the reed door is selected, the warp yarns are drilled and pleated one by one, then all the warp yarns are wound on the roller, and then loaded on the machine for weaving.

A wooden loom for weaving cloth. In the weaving process, except for plain white cloth with single shuttle, double curtains and double pedals, other kinds of printed cloth all use four shuttles, eight warps and eight pedals. When weaving plaid cloth, four shuttles are placed in front, and weft yarns of the required color are placed on the shuttles. The weaver changes the shuttle according to the needs of the pattern, and steps on the pedal in a certain order with his feet to make the warp yarn open the required weft opening. The shuttle drills back and forth rhythmically, with coordinated hands and feet and agile and skilled movements. Only when the woven cloth is tight and flat, and the pattern is orderly, can the process pass.

Batik, batik patterns are mostly flowers or geometric figures, such as bracken flowers, group flowers, small flowers, morning glory, morning glory, whirlpool, flower debate, sawtooth, triangle, square, diamond, sun, water waves, dragons and phoenixes, mandarin ducks, wild deer, double happiness and so on. In these patterns, there are isomorphic combinations into flowers and polymorphic combinations into adults; Some flowers are covered with flowers, showing that there are flowers in the flowers and stored in Fiona Fang. Batik cloth is mostly used for women's wear, or as sheets, quilts, eaves, etc.

Buyi men's wear has developed rapidly in history, and its style is simpler than that of women's wear, which requires less labor and is simple and simple. There are two styles: gown and bodice. There are three kinds of robes, blue, black and white, all of which are wide and buckled on the right side, and the white robe is mourning. Men's double-breasted clothes are all buckled on the chest, and their trousers are hung with big crotch, with straight legs and a width of eight or nine inches. According to the season and environment, the elderly and adults wear blue and black flowers, green flowers or white flowers. Most elderly people wear handkerchiefs, blue or gray gowns, blue or blue crotch pants and cloth shoes or rubber shoes. Adults wear blue and black flower handkerchiefs, blue or gray double-breasted clothes, crotch-hanging straight pants or modern fashionable pants, and raw cloth shoes, rubber shoes or leather shoes.

Buyi women's clothing varies with their living environment and climate. The most representative are the Buyi women's costumes in Gu Min, Zhexiang, Beipanjiang, Tianchang and Wanlan villages in Zhenfeng County. Its costume is: braided hair before marriage, tied into a bun after marriage, covered with a net made of ponytail and tied with silver hairpin. When the weather is hot, young and middle-aged women like to tidy up the dishes and chopsticks, which looks neat and elegant. In cold weather, you use a horn handkerchief to keep out the cold. Older women wear horns all year round, with narrow collar and wide chest, and buttons on the right side. The shoulders are all three-inch blue cloth with lace, the sleeves are wide, the cuffs are five-inch blue cloth, and the joints are inlaid with "railings", which are as long as the hips and the sides are bent back and forth; Self-dyed blue hanging crotch straight tube homespun pants with bottom. Pant mouth is big, burr, wear embroidered pointed shoes or all kinds of cloth shoes or rubber shoes. There are flowers embroidered with various patterns on the table with blue cloth as the bottom and satin as the heart. A belt made of satin and embedded with railings is tied with a slipknot, so it is hung on the waist belt; Wear bone jade and silver bracelets on your hands; Young people also wear silver buttons, silver butterflies and various kinds of silver flowers.

According to folklore, the corsage tied on the chest is embroidered with Buyi houses and castles, fluttering sails, dragons, snakes, fish and shrimp, landscapes, plants and pastoral scenery. The corsage is embroidered with colored railings to the left and right, representing the north-south Panjiang River, and two corsage ribbons are tied behind it, representing the drifting of Hongshui River after the intersection of the north-south Panjiang River. The whole flower waist is composed of the Nanbei River and Hongshui River where Buyi people live in compact communities, with fertile land, rich water resources and beautiful countryside. Buyi women are proud of having a wonderful flower waist and are praised. In the long-term indigo dyeing practice, the Buyi people in Zhenfeng have mastered the superb skills of cooling cloth, spreading cloth, throwing cloth, rolling cloth, beating cloth and folding cloth, which has high research and reference value.

The most distinctive children's wear is the children's hat, which is made of various colors of cloth and satin according to mothers' love and artistic appreciation level, climate characteristics and doll's face, and mostly adopts bright column edges and bright silk embroidery. Children's hats have different shapes and gratifying patterns, such as cat hats, lion hats and rabbit hats. There are ear hats that imitate ancient helmets and black hats that imitate ancient civil servants. The front of the hat should be nailed with silver arhats or jade arhats, or inlaid with jade buttons with auspicious words such as "long life and wealth"; There are colorful beards and a few small silver bells hanging behind the hat, which are dazzling and fascinating.

Buyi costume is a national costume style made of all kinds of self-spun, self-woven, self-dyed, self-stitched and self-embroidered homespun by intelligent Buyi people on both sides of the North Plate with beautiful mountains and rivers, pleasant climate, fertile land and picturesque scenery. Although it has been honed by history, it still maintains distinctive national characteristics. Batik, stitch dyeing, overlapping dyeing and Liquidambar formosana dyeing are mostly blue and white, and the colors are quiet and elegant, blending with the natural space environment, blue sky and white clouds, green mountains and green waters, achieving a wonderful harmony between man and nature. Stitch dyeing is older. Instead of drawing a pattern with wax water, it uses a tie-dyeing process, that is, sewing the cloth into the desired pattern by hand, and then dipping it. High technical requirements, leading pattern style and batik.

Buyi costumes, after more than 3,000 years of historical evolution and inheritance, have formed a costume cultural circle with its own national characteristics, which includes folk cultural characteristics in the textile cultural background such as planting, spinning, weaving, dyeing, embroidery, sewing, etc., and constitutes a series of textile cultural phenomena such as Buyi cloth, batik, embroidery, cutting and clothing, which is one of the concentrated manifestations of the essence of Buyi culture. At the same time, the style structure of Buyi clothing materials shows not only a kind of formal beauty, such as cold and warm colors, elegant colors, bright rhythm, flowing rhythm, rough composition, etc. At the same time, it also expresses the spirit, concept, psychology, emotion, will and aesthetics of Buyi people. It is through their costumes that the Buyi people give the hostages a natural beauty.

Judging from the present situation of the dyeing and weaving skills of Buyi clothing raw materials, some areas still inherit the traditions of spinning, weaving, indigo dyeing, batik and embroidery, and the traditional clothing skills in most areas gradually disappear with the economic development, technological progress and the strong influence of foreign culture. In particular, the diversification of young people's aesthetic interests, coupled with fewer and fewer Buyi people planting cotton, ginning, rubbing cotton, playing cotton, spinning, weaving and batik, the traditional self-spinning, self-weaving, self-dyeing and self-sewing processes have encountered severe challenges. In addition, the clothes of young people who go out to work and study have also changed greatly with the times. Young and middle-aged people who work at home, except visiting relatives and friends, should wear their own national costumes politely when going to the market, and generally wear Hanfu. The splendid Buyi costumes in the past are in danger of disappearing today.