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The legend of mutton powder
According to Jia Sixie's Book of Qi Yao Min, rice noodles have been eaten in southern China since the Qin Dynasty, with a history of more than 2,000 years. At that time, with the method of northerners, the rice in the south was made into strips and used for cooking, which was called humi. Mutton is naturally beautiful and has a special flavor. Southerners have long been unaccustomed to using mutton as seasoning. Northerners love mutton very much, but historically it was mainly pasta. I missed the mutton rice noodles. At first, Zunyi people, like other areas in the south, used pork as the main seasoning of rice noodles. Zunyi hoof pollen is still relatively advanced, that is, it is extracted from pig hoofs as seasoning. Zunyi, also known as Bozhou, was an important border town in the southwest during the Tang and Song Dynasties to resist highland tribal countries. Since the Tang Dynasty originated in Taiyuan, Bozhou at that time was mainly stationed by Taiyuan Military Group. In the fifth year of Dali (770), Luo Rong, a native of Taiyuan, Shanxi Province, led the division to broadcast "counter-insurgency", and it was reported that it was spread. Luo Rongfeng broadcasts Zhou Hou. In the 13th year of Dazhong (859), Nanzhao Dali Tusi claimed to be the emperor and sent troops to invade Bozhou. Luo is the grandson of V. He lived in Luzhou after being driven away. In the first year of Xian Tong (860), Annan was the capital. In the 14th year of Xian Tong (873), Nanzhao contacted the Yi people to capture Bozhou again. In the third year of Ganfu (876), the two military families, Yang and Mu, in Taiyuan, Shanxi, once again joined forces to recover Bozhou. According to the genealogy of Mu clan in Zunyi today, Yang Duan, the head of Yang Tuan, designed and murdered Mu Xingtian, the head of Mu clan, and won the meritorious military service. (In 2007, descendants of Mu also presented genealogy and related materials to Zunyi Historical Research Association. In the old city of Zunyi, there are many places named after Jia Mu's surname, such as Jiamu Temple, Mujiachuan, Mujialin, Mujiang, Mujiawan and Jiamu Lane. After that, Yang and his children from Shanxi, such as Cheng, Zhao, You, Lou, Liang, Wei and Xie, who broadcast with Yang Duan, began to settle in Bozhou, which opened the era of separatist regime in Bozhou in 29 dynasties and 725 years, and profoundly influenced the political pattern and customs and culture in southwest China. These Shanxi immigrants who entered the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau earlier grew up herding sheep and eating sheep. In this vast and strange land, they understand from the bottom of their hearts that mutton is fragrant, not mutton. And they also have the traditional skills of processing mutton. But historically, rice was mainly produced and eaten in the south, so naturally zunyi mutton powder, a household name today, was born. Why is the mutton in zunyi mutton powder today still typical of the northern flavor, and southerners still feel heavy, but Zunyi people don't know it? Why are some new-generation mutton powder brands in the south gaining considerable market space by thoroughly eliminating odor, while zunyi mutton powder is still enjoying itself? That's why. Moreover, Zunyi people have formed this taste, and it is difficult to change and change like others. This phenomenon just proves zunyi mutton powder's originality and authenticity. It can be seen that zunyi mutton powder has a history of 1, more than 230 years since Luo Rong's family was broadcast in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. At the latest, it began to be broadcast by Yangduan and villagers with eight surnames in the late Tang Dynasty, more than 1 100 years ago. 2. At the end of Ming Dynasty, Zhang, the eight kings of Sichuan, was slaughtered. "Thousands of miles away, there is no one left." Only Zunyi Prefecture and two small counties with Zunyi as their backs survived. Sichuan's population plummeted, which led to Huguang filling Sichuan in Qing Dynasty. During the war, a large number of Sichuan refugees fled to Zunyi. After the war, some people returned to their hometowns and brought the habit of eating mutton powder to all parts of Sichuan. By the mid-Qing Dynasty, zunyi mutton powder had become very famous in the southwest. In the late Qing Dynasty, there was a story between zunyi mutton powder and Sichuan mutton powder. Yang Ji and Liao Ji are the most famous in zunyi mutton powder in the late Qing Dynasty. One day, a man came to Yangji mutton powder shop and wanted to be an apprentice. The Yang family needs to hire people, but when they see people hunched over, they are somewhat disgusted. So he said, you have no future in our line of work. You'd better find another job. People won't give up, saying that the handyman who washes dishes and sweeps the floor is willing to do it. The Yang family saw his sincerity and asked him to stay. As the saying goes: ten humpbacks and nine cleverness. This hunchback is not generally clever. Plus the opportunity is rare, so pay more attention to it everywhere and ponder it carefully. A few years later, I left. Humpback opened a mutton powder shop by himself. That's Zhu Laofu's mutton powder shop in northern Sichuan. Husband Zhu, whose real name is Zhu Mingqing, was born in Shunqing (now Nanchong, Sichuan). In the words of Nanchong people, Zhu Laogong is "the originator of rice noodles in northeast Sichuan and even Sichuan and Chongqing". The relationship between North Sichuan mutton powder and zunyi mutton powder is very similar to that between Yang Tai Jichuan and Chen Taijichuan. It can also be called two stories with the same tone and spectrum in the process of local cultural exchange in China. 3. In the last century, mutton rice noodles became popular in some northern areas as northern cities began to eat rice. Dunhuang mutton powder may be influenced by northern Sichuan mutton powder. In many places in southern Guizhou, northern Guangxi and western Hunan, mutton powder was used as one of breakfast foods in the last century, especially after the 1980s. And produced many delicious and reputable local brands. Zunyi people also began to open mutton powder houses in southwest, south and east China. People all over the country have creatively developed the flavor of mutton powder in combination with local habits. Nowadays, the mutton rice noodle industry in China has begun to show a thriving scene. 4. In fact, the exact record of zunyi mutton powder is that it flourished in the middle of Qing Dynasty, or it was put on the market in Ming Dynasty, and the situation further up is my reasonable proof. Why is this happening? The Pingbo War at the end of Ming Dynasty not only destroyed the political group of Yang Tusi in Bozhou, but also destroyed the cultural memory of this land. The official residence, manor and documents were all burned down, and even Yangzu's grave was excavated and destroyed. Even in today's prosperous Ming Dynasty, in the official data of some counties in southern Guizhou ruled by Bozhou Tusi for hundreds of years, we would rather shorten the history of intensive agricultural development for hundreds of years and deliberately erase this historical memory, which is actually not short. 1957 The tomb of Yang Can, the third generation toast of Bozhou/kloc-0, was discovered by accident, which is a treasure in the history of architectural sculpture in Song Dynasty. The stone carvings and unearthed cultural relics in this tomb prove the existence of "Bozhou Shi Sheng" with indisputable physical objects. At present, Yang Can Tomb Site and Hailongdun Site in Bozhou are listed as one of the few national key protected cultures in Guizhou Province, and the Cliff Stone Carving Site in the suburbs of Chongqing is also listed as a key protected cultural relic, which shows that Tusiyang's achievements in border defense, immigration, reclamation and development in Bozhou for more than 700 years have been positively evaluated at the national level and in the field of vision outside the mountain. Thankfully, zunyi mutton powder was awarded the title of "Famous Chinese Snack" and was also listed as a local intangible cultural heritage in Zunyi City. Every winter to Sunday, people in China usually eat dog meat, jiaozi and glutinous rice. But we Zunyi people eat mutton, and more people go out to eat two bowls of mutton powder. In that thick aroma, in that rich breath, once again taste the grandeur of Tang and Song Dynasties, the solemnity of Yuan and Ming Dynasties, the simplicity of the Central Plains and the acrimony of Yunnan and Guizhou. Deeply cherish the memory of the people of all ethnic groups in China who fought and cultivated on this plateau in history. 6. In 1950s, there were only seven or eight mutton powder restaurants in the city, which were later changed into state-owned hotels and collective cooperative hotels. Steamed bread, steamed stuffed bun, noodles and rice skin are all sold, but mutton powder has become a rarity, and the objects and skills of processing "powder" are almost lost. From 1960s to 1980s, the two most famous and powerful rice noodle shops were located in Nanbai Town, Zunyi County. The hotel collectively raises sheep and squeezes rice noodles with complete equipment, one-stop production and operation, and the business is very prosperous. After the reform and opening up, self-employed people have mushroomed, and the mutton powder restaurant in Nanbai has also increased its monthly ticket and annual ticket. Nowadays, some nostalgic people often criticize that mutton powder used to be sold for only a few hours in the morning and turned into an all-night fast food. I don't know when to get fresh soup and mutton offal. The powder processed by machine has strong toughness and long storage time, but it is not delicious; The meat is frozen in the refrigerator, cut thinner than paper, and turned into fine slag in a bowl. Nowadays, mutton powder, a famous Zunyi food, embodies the characteristics of the times. Economically speaking, raising sheep, slaughtering, milling and selling flour are all independent, with division of labor and cooperation, forming an industrial chain, which is spread all over urban and rural areas in Guizhou and going to the whole country. Culturally speaking, this diet nourishes people's enthusiasm and is bringing auspiciousness and prosperity to this fiery land.