How did the costumes develop in the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China?

Author: Zuto

Link:/question/51121064/answer/124220735.

Source: Zhihu.

First of all, you should understand that Han people are not Han people, and the "Hanfu" recorded before the end of the Qing Dynasty is not the national costume of Han people. This did not die out in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties, but the flag bearer was not a Manchu flag bearer who entered the Central Plains to change clothes, which led to the collapse of the clothing system in the Ming Dynasty. Pay attention to the difference between the two. Not everyone in the Qing Dynasty wore robes and mandarin jackets as advocated by Hanfu lovers. The so-called standard-bearer enters the Central Plains, and ordinary men and people can easily become robes and mandarin jackets. Regarding the change of clothes in the Qing Dynasty, we can see the history of Yu Dafu in the Qing Dynasty. Since ancient times, there has been a history of royal clothing, which was promulgated by the imperial power, stipulating the wearing styles of people with different identities, stipulating the color grade, clothing grade system and etiquette, and recording the rules and changes of clothing culture. If you are interested, you can go and see Yu. In the Qing Dynasty, due to men's disobedience to women, China women's daily casual clothes and auspicious clothes existed until the Republic of China. Even in the middle of the Qing Dynasty, the clothes of flag girls were different. The daily dress of women in the Banner is a robe with no split feet on both sides, while women in China wear a traditional two-piece dress with a long skirt under a knee-length coat.

Before "nationalism" was introduced to China in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China, China emphasized a cultural country with a world concept. The concept of the world was formed in the Han Dynasty, and the cultural support is economic exchange, and the other pillar is cultural unity, which is why Han is a Han Chinese. For two thousand years, the spirit that Han people are Han people was maintained until the end of Qing dynasty, and then the concept of the world was replaced by nationalist consciousness.

Qing Dynasty was the last feudal dynasty in China. When the Revolution of 1911 broke out and the Qing government collapsed, the flag-bearers were forced to change their Chinese surnames and clothes. The legal clothing system of the Qing government collapsed, the clothing hierarchy was abolished, and the flag people were not bound by the clothing system. Clothing is a mess, and there are many strange clothes. Men wear women's clothes, women wear men's clothes, some wear suits, some wear costumes, some have long hair and some have their hair cut. This is the first time that the clothing system of Han people collapsed in the late Ming Dynasty.

19 12 Shen Bao reported in March: at that time, there were "China people wore dresses, foreigners wore Chinese clothes", "men dressed as women, women dressed as men", "prostitutes were female students, and female students were like prostitutes", and civilians wore official clothes, while bureaucrats wore civilian clothes. The demise of the feudal dynasty and the elimination of the hierarchy disintegrated China's rock-solid dress code. The Republic of China ushered in an era of robes, jackets, suits and open clothes.

New Woman magazine: "In recent years, everyone has refused to pay attention to this point. Some women dress as men, some as prostitutes, and some students dress as hooligans. "

In the first year of the Republic of China, the government of the Republic of China promulgated the first clothing law, Clothing System, which stipulated uniforms and dresses, which was different from the clothing system of the dynasties. The clothing law promulgated by the government of the Republic of China removed the hierarchy, and the basic principle of classless concept injected the spirit of equality into clothing. In addition, because western clothing was introduced into China at that time, foreign fabrics produced by machines were brought back, revealing the impact on China's traditional civilization and the formal acceptance of foreign clothing.

"Clothing System Law" defines tuxedos as big dresses and suits as semi-formal dresses. But at that time, celebrities and intellectuals in the upper class still generally wore robes and jackets, which also made suits and robes and jackets in the early years of the Republic of China parallel to social occasions. In the 1920s, the Chinese tunic suit evolved from the military uniform was born, which became a common dress for men in China. Soon, China's men's wear has evolved into a situation of tunic suit, short jacket, gown plus jacket and suit. Later, in the late 1920s, the National Government promulgated a new "Clothing Regulations", which abolished the tuxedo as a national costume and designated robes and gowns as men's dresses.

The women's dress of the Han nationality was still in the Ming Dynasty, wearing a traditional two-piece suit. In the early years of the Republic of China, their coats changed from long to short, narrow and slender, and they wore long skirts. They were also influenced by Japan at that time. Some women have Japanese (Western) hairstyles and wear mixed clothes from China and Japan. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, suits and woolen goods entered China. At that time, foreign goods were popular in society, especially foreign cloth, stockings and leather shoes, which contributed to the dumping of foreign goods in China. In the early years of the Republic of China, there were two kinds of people who were fashion pioneers at that time because of the abolition of the clothing hierarchy. One is a schoolgirl, and the other is a prostitute. Besides imitating each other, they also took the lead in popularizing men's robes. Some extreme Hanfu revivalists attacked cheongsam as a prostitute's dress. In fact, prostitutes wear men's clothes. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, suits and woolen cloth entered China. At that time, foreign goods were popular in society, especially foreign cloth, stockings and leather shoes, which contributed to the dumping of foreign goods in China. In the early years of the Republic of China, there were two kinds of people who were fashion pioneers at that time because of the abolition of the clothing hierarchy. One is a schoolgirl, and the other is a prostitute. Besides imitating each other, they also took the lead in popularizing men's robes. Some extreme Hanfu revivalists criticized cheongsam as a prostitute's dress. In fact, prostitutes wear men's clothes.

Clothes for Clearing Money: At the turn of the century, women in Shanghai brothel "wore western-style hunting hats and western-style coats, and were all served by Taixi men. Walking on foot, in the thick crowd, few people can see that they are women. "

"Money-clearing clothes": In the lighting and publicity, Shanghainese (walking, high school, middle school) compete for men's clothes, and some of them dry their pointed leather robes. However, the road of history. Ji later said: "The emperor went to Mengshan to play, and his sister was fond of playing. He smiles and is charming, but his color is sharp and not harmonious, but he is male. "

Jin Juxian, a prostitute in A Dream of Flowers on the Sea, won bursts of applause when she appeared in men's clothing: "Wearing a Yuan-colored foreign satin jacket, a satin jacket, flat satin shoes on her feet, a light lake satin cover, three strands of braids on her head, a long braid in Yuan color, a good man's costume, and a green tree in the wind."

The rise of women's education and feminist movement is also reflected in clothing. Women's robe is a fashion worn by women to strive for equality with men's wear, and it is also the mainstream that challenges traditional ethics to change for thousands of years.

New Woman magazine: "In recent years, everyone has refused to pay attention to this point. Some women dress as men, some as prostitutes, and some students dress as hooligans. "

Miscellaneous Notes of the Guangfu Association: (Qiu Jin) was wearing a dark blue lake robe (like a man's robe), with dark blue braids on his head and black satin boots on his feet. She was thirty-two years old that year. Young members of the Guangfu Association called her' Mr. Qiu'. "

Change clothes: After the Republic of the five ethnic groups, women all over the country suddenly adopted cheongsam unanimously, not because they were loyal to the Qing Dynasty and advocated the restoration movement, but because women deliberately imitated men.

Women wearing men's robes became a fashion pursued by women at that time, and then spread to the whole country.

A newspaper in Beijing published an article: "Nowadays, women have cut their hair, let go of their feet and even put on robes. When we first met, we couldn't tell whether he was a man or a woman. In the future, men's and women's clothing will inevitably be assimilated. "

In addition to the popularity of women's wear and men's wear, jackets have also changed, and the sleeves are popular with the inverted sleeve style of semi-circular hem. At the same time, there is also a cheongsam vest in Shanghai. Different from the national flag vest, this kind of vest is sleeveless, with no slits on both sides, and long enough to match the inverted sleeves, so it is called cheongsam vest. In addition to the popularity of women's wear and men's wear, jackets have also changed, and the sleeves are popular with the inverted sleeve style of semi-circular hem. At the same time, there is also a cheongsam vest in Shanghai. Different from the national flag vest, this kind of vest is sleeveless, with no slits on both sides, and long enough to match the inverted sleeves, so it is called cheongsam vest.

The picture below shows a skirt with inverted sleeves and a cheongsam vest with yellow sleeves.

Later, the inverted sleeve coat and vest merged and evolved into cheongsam. At first cheongsam was not called cheongsam, but gown, gown and so on. Because it is also the same robe style as men. In the same year, the short article No Cheongsam in Shanghai Republic Daily proposed to change its name to Chinese robe and cheongsam. Later, the inverted sleeve coat and vest merged and evolved into cheongsam. At first cheongsam was not called cheongsam, but gown, gown and so on. Because it is also the same robe style as men. In the same year, the short article No Cheongsam in Shanghai Republic Daily proposed to change its name to Chinese robe and cheongsam.

Shen Bao193111Li's "Looking Back on Five Years of New Clothes": "The change of this shirt (that is, cheongsam) also has clues. Ms. Li Minghui, who can resolutely break the 300-year skirt system, has now retired and created a cheongsam vest to replace the skirt. "

The Melody of Cheongsam (No.1940): "The long short-sleeved dresses worn by old women in China set off a revolution the year before the Northern Expedition. It turned out to be in the form of a cheongsam vest. The short coat is still there, and the long vest replaced the original apron. "

Cheongsam first appeared in the form of cheongsam vest. Later, the long vest was sewn together with the jacket and shirt inside, and they merged into a "one-piece" cut robe. It is said that this is also the source of shoulder sewing cheongsam. Shanghai is a city that combines Chinese and western cultures. As a window of western communication, Shanghai has always been at the forefront of fashion. At that time, cheongsam was influenced by the west and used western styles, such as flounces, bubble sleeves and lace. Later, around the 1940s, the body was cut in three dimensions. During the Republic of China, cheongsam was mostly cut flat. Cheongsam was first popular in Shanghai, and later influenced Guangdong, Guangzhou, Hong Kong and other places. With the help of newspapers, magazines and movies, as well as the spread of fashionable female students, modern girls and movie stars in the upper class, cheongsam became more popular and influenced the whole country. It reached its peak in the 1930s and became popular in overseas Chinese circles. Cheongsam has replaced the traditional Chinese clothing worn by two clothes and become the standard dress for women. The standing collar of cheongsam in the 1930s was somewhat similar to that of the Ming Dynasty. The neck is tied with a tight cheongsam. At first, it appeared in the form of a cheongsam vest. Later, the long vest was sewn together with the jacket and shirt inside, and they merged together to form a "one-piece" cut robe. It is said that this is also the source of shoulder sewing cheongsam. Shanghai is a city that combines Chinese and western cultures. As a window of western communication, Shanghai has always been at the forefront of fashion. At that time, cheongsam was influenced by the west and adopted western styles, such as flounces, bubble sleeves and lace. Later, around the 1940s, the body was cut in three dimensions. During the Republic of China, cheongsam was mostly cut flat. Cheongsam was first popular in Shanghai, and later influenced Guangdong, Guangzhou, Hong Kong and other places. With the help of newspapers, magazines and movies, as well as the spread of fashionable female students, modern girls and movie stars in the upper class, cheongsam became more popular and influenced the whole country. It reached its peak in the 1930s and became popular in overseas Chinese circles. Cheongsam has replaced the traditional Chinese clothing worn by two clothes and become the standard dress for women. In the 1930s, the stand-up collar of cheongsam was similar to that of Ming Dynasty, both of which tied the neck tightly.

The characteristics of cheongsam in different periods are also different. During the Republic of China, cheongsam was bounded by years. In addition, the current "buckle" generally refers to the buckle with a pattern at the end (as shown below), which was developed on cheongsam after the official prosperity of the Republic of China. In the Qing Dynasty or before, buttons were mostly simple buttons. The characteristics of cheongsam in different periods are also different. During the Republic of China, cheongsam was bounded by years. In addition, the current "buckle" generally refers to the buckle with a pattern at the end (as shown below), which was developed on cheongsam after the official prosperity of the Republic of China. In the Qing Dynasty or before, buttons were mostly simple buttons.

In the 1930 s, the dress code considered cheongsam to be a woman's dress, besides cheongsam, there were skirts and robes. In the 1930 s, the dress code considered cheongsam to be a woman's dress, besides cheongsam, there were skirts and robes.

Skirts originated in the Ming dynasty, and the specific point is the cloak red skirt. Cloak originated from men's wear in Ming Dynasty and was accepted by women in the middle of Ming Dynasty. There are two main forms of cloaks in the Ming Dynasty, one is straight collar and double rows of faces, which are for both men and women, and the other is straight collar and double rows of faces, which are for women only. In the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, it was often called Yi Fu. In the Qing Dynasty, under the influence of men's coats, women's cloaks with double-breasted faces gradually turned into dresses because cloaks were similar to men's jackets in the Qing Dynasty, and women's cloaks were also called "jackets" at that time. The area along the south of the Yangtze River is called a cloak, while southern Guangdong and other places also use a "jacket" to call a cloak, and together with the red skirt, it is called a "jacket skirt" or a "skirt coat".

"Sixty Years of Makeup": "The most common dresses for women are cloaks and red skirts. Compared with men's coats, cloaks are sky blue for auspicious clothes and yuan blue for plain clothes, and there can be no different colors. The cloak is lined with a coat, so you can use any color you like. This cloak is knee-length like a man's coat. There are two sleeves, which are extremely rich. According to what I saw when I was a child, they were probably embroidered with colorful or golden flowers in blue satin. For more than 60 years, I don't know the decoration on the cloak. But unmarried daughters are not allowed to wear cloaks.

In the late Qing Dynasty, women's coats were decorated with flowers from Ping Jin and wavy Phnom Penh, which they called "water feet". This decoration was advocated by the wife of a northern official. There is a short collar on the cloak, which can decorate all kinds of jewelry. Cloak is also like a man's coat, which can be worn from tulle to leather, but the fur is like the latest women's coat, but I have never seen it.

There are all kinds of red skirts, such as red skirts, everywhere, and some are equipped with all kinds of streamers. Once, there were countless small silver bells on the skirt, which made a sound step by step. But this kind of decoration is for young women, and the old people wear red skirts, which is also quite simple. "

Skirts and dresses are one of the few traditional costumes that come down in one continuous line. It takes at least one year from customization to completion, and it is expensive. In addition, there is a kind of traditional clothing that survived the same strain-big pants. Skirts and dresses are one of the few traditional costumes that come down in one continuous line. It takes at least one year from customization to completion, and it is expensive. In addition, there is a kind of traditional clothing that survived the same strain-big pants.

Popularize the definition of traditional clothing, the "transmission" of traditional clothing is inheritance, which has the same historical origin, and "unification" is unification.

A coat and trousers are clothes that take off a skirt from a coat and skirt. The popular trousers with skirts and skirts were generally from Guangxu period. The trouser legs of the coat and trousers are separated, the calves are straight, and the trouser legs are often decorated with lace (the coat and trousers are shown below). There is a difference between coat pants and flag women's clothing. Some people find it difficult to tell the difference between a coat and trousers and a flag dress. Let me explain, coat is one of the daily clothes of women in China. The coat shirt is up and down to the knee and split at both sides to the waist. The daily gown of flag women's wear is generally full-length and has no slits on both sides, which is called a shirt. There is also a style called "Fu Yi", which is a coat that can't be worn alone. Generally, it is worn outside the shirt, and the slits on both sides of the rich clothes are under the armpits, which are usually the daily clothes or folk clothes of rich people.

Change clothes: the coat is divided into three sets of three volumes, five sets of five volumes and seven sets of seven volumes. In addition to the flower rolls, there are plum blossoms and chrysanthemums with mercury plates shining on the hem and skirt. The sleeves are nailed with silk lace called "Linggan", which is about seven inches wide and hollowed out with the words "Fushou". There are countless interesting dots gathered here ... the straight line of the long coat extends to the knee, and two narrow trouser legs hang down below, like a golden lotus with feet but no feet. I am embarrassed to step on the ground gently. The beauty of pencil pants lies in giving people a feeling of loneliness.

During Guangxu period, women wore fewer trousers and skirts. Due to the daily popularity of trousers in the late Qing Dynasty, skirts were used as dresses. The following information reflects how the skirt was worn at that time. Later, influenced by western dresses in the Republic of China, China's traditional dresses evolved into lesbian dresses.

Looking north and south: "in the late Qing dynasty and the early Republic of China, skirts were women's dresses, and the distinction between modesty and vulgarity was in skirts." There are also festive ceremonies. It can be seen at a glance that both the wife and aunt are red embroidered skirts, and the aunt can only wear pink, Hu and light blue skirts. Unless there are outstanding children, the old lady can only wear a red skirt. "

"Change clothes": When going out, the skirt and trousers are more regular. It's usually black. On festive occasions, my wife wears red and my aunt wears pink. Widows wear black dresses, but after her husband died for many years, if her in-laws are in the hall, they can wear lake color or snow blue. The fine pleats on the skirt are the most rigorous test of a woman's manners. A girl with a good family education, even if she walks steadily, the pleated skirt is not motionless, just the slightest shaking. Jasper, a small family who is not used to wearing skirts, feels stormy when she walks. Even more harsh is the bride's red dress, with a half-inch wide ribbon hanging around her waist and bells tied at both ends. There is only a faint tinkling sound when acting, like a wind chime on a pagoda in a distant mountain. As late as 1920, more chic and free pleated skirts became fashionable and were completely abolished.

The change of clothing depends on the degree of social living conditions and environmental changes, so the change of clothing in rural areas and some economically backward areas lags far behind that in economically developed areas and towns. This kind of clothes with coat and trousers used to be quite common in rural areas, and some old people also wore it like this. Due to customs and habits, the aesthetic tastes of different regions have developed their own unique folk costumes, which are even very similar to those of other nationalities.

Fengyang Hanzhuang < img src = "/ F2 bef FDC 743 f 245 b 792 B4 C4 a22d 460 fa _ b . jpg " data-raw width = " 3350 " data-raw height = " 2534 " class = " origin _ image zh-light box-thu Mb "width =" 3350 "data-origin ="/f2befdc743f245b 792b4c4a2d460fa _ r.jpg "> Hakka Hakka

& ltimg src = "/ 02948 a 088 b 99 b 2768d 5e 73 c 966 C5 af _ b . jpg " data-raw width = " 769 " data-raw height = " 507 " class = " origin _ image zh-light box-thumb " width = " 769 " data-original = "/02948 a 088 b 99 b 2768d 5e 73 c 966 C5 af _ r . jpg " >& ltimg src = "/c 02 da 63 b 8e 8 a 33d 7 1 a 94 e 803 bdeb 4202 _ b . jpg " data-raw width = " 499 " data-raw height = " 335 " class = " origin _ image zh-light box-thumb " width = " 499 " data -original = "/c 02 da 63 b 8e 8 a 33d 7 1 a 94 e 803 bdeb 4202 _ r . jpg " >；

At the end of the Republic of China, due to political reasons, Hongkong and Chinese mainland developed separately. Since then, the differences in clothing appearance between the two places have gradually increased, and the aesthetics are quite different from mainstream clothing. At the beginning of the founding of the People's Republic of China, the land reform movement that broke the capitalism made the traditional culture lose its survival soil. Chinese clothes and traditional customs such as cheongsam, skirt robe, cheongsam and women's robe all represent feudal, decadent and declining cultural categories. Suits represent the western bourgeoisie, so people thought they couldn't wear them at that time, and you know what will happen if you wear them. This land reform movement made the clothing system established by the government of the Republic of China disappear, and Zhongshan suit and military uniform were far more popular than any other style. It is said that nuns and monks have also been transformed into tunic suits, and social costumes are highly unified. China has entered the era of "gray, blue, black and green". A suit of Chinese tunic suit or military uniform can make you face various occasions and make the society lose the cognition of clothing systematization.

After the reform and opening up, it was quickly occupied by western, Japanese and Korean costumes such as bell bottoms, bat shirts and frog mirrors. The traditional charm of reviving cheongsam is completely lost. Nowadays, the cheongsam of the current dynasty has been completely unrecognizable. Under the impact of foreign fashion in the reform and opening up, the remaining local traditional costumes and aesthetics were eliminated and labeled as "old-fashioned". The so-called "Hanfu" made by Hanfu Fuxing is not much better, and it is lower than cheongsam. In Nanyue, which was not affected by the land reform movement, skirts and men's gowns survived. In Hongkong, Taiwan Province Province and other places, women's robes are either cheongsam or skirts, and men wear suits or robes. Later, in 2003, the "Hanfu Renaissance" movement appeared, and the sale of dog meat by sheep's head was even more chaotic, which was simply nonsense.

The real reason for the disappearance of traditional costumes is the "gray, blue, black and green" era in the early days of the founding of the People's Republic of China. At present, traditional costumes only exist in some areas and villages, and later the Hanfu movement became more chaotic. As far as I know, the so-called "Hanfu" is a patchwork of different aesthetic tastes and shapes of Generation X and aesthetic elements of Japanese and Korean films. There is no dress occasion rule, even contrary to the theory of clothing development history. Not to mention China's national costume, this kind of selling dog meat by hanging sheep's head. The real reason for the disappearance of traditional costumes is the "gray, blue, black and green" era in the early days of the founding of the People's Republic of China. At present, traditional costumes only exist in some areas and villages, and later the Hanfu movement became more chaotic. As far as I know, the so-called "Hanfu" is a patchwork of different aesthetic tastes and shapes of Generation X and aesthetic elements of Japanese and Korean films. There is no dress occasion rule, even contrary to the theory of clothing development history. Not to mention China's national costume, this kind of selling dog meat by hanging sheep's head.

Clothing, in ancient times, was the second face of people, symbolizing the role and status played by society. The dress of feudal dynasty has been a political issue since ancient times, which is closely related to the rulers. The Qing government collapsed in the Revolution of 1911, and the last feudal dress hierarchy was abolished, ending the dress hierarchy and aristocratic dress system since ancient times. Due to the end of the ruling class of the Qing government, the clothing system collapsed, followed by a new clothing system, coupled with the ideas of democracy, equality and freedom brought by foreign western culture. So that people are no longer subject to the choice of class concept and status, but from the perspective of aesthetics and fashion, and then ushered in the era of "civilized new clothes." At the same time, absorbing western culture promoted the social development of China. The most direct change is that men cut their braids and women let go. The abolition of status hierarchy has also triggered changes in clothing. Most of the remote rural areas that have not been exposed to the new ideological trend are still old. Influenced by western nationalism, costumes began to change, and after this important link, ethnic groups and ethnic costumes appeared. The following "Hanfu" refers to the costumes of the Han nationality. I don't need to explain what style Hanfu refers to here.

In 1930s, the supplementary rules of Sanjiang County Customs Improvement Committee stipulated that "the costumes of Miao, Yao and Dong people should be changed to Hanfu to save money and look good".

The development of costumes in the Republic of China is really rich, especially cheongsam, which is a symbol of the times in the construction of a new image of women. For hundreds of years, Han people wore clothes, men wore robes and women wore skirts. Men were strong and women were weak, and the social status of men and women was different. Obviously emphasize the concept that men are superior to women to oppress women.

On the matter, two clothes are cut, and the woman is not with her husband.

Everything should be humble and obedient, and chickens should not crow in the morning.

In the late Qing Dynasty, girls' schools and women's rights rose, and skirts were no longer needed. In the Tang, Song, Ming and Qing dynasties, which were ruled by the dress hierarchy for hundreds of years, there were strict boundaries between men and women in dress. The so-called "men and women can't get clothes" stipulates the different roles of men and women in clothing. The rise of feminist movement in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China challenged the traditional dress concept and had a strong impact on women's dress concept. Without the opening of the west, women's rights would not exist, women's robes would not exist, and cheongsam would not exist. Speaking of cheongsam, I think of its nobility, its sexiness, its gentleness and its grace step by step.

The legend of the origin of the Spring Festival.

What is the standard matrix like?

Can Hebei choose history test D to take the college entrance examination?

God bless the people, Liu Xie stumbles three days late. What are Feng Xin and Mu Qing doing in Junshan?

The ancestors of the Zhang family?

How to learn history well and what are the good ways to improve your grades?

Singer Mai Mai was originally named.

Wandering in jishuitan in spring.

Why do you want to eat fried dough sticks on Dragon Boat Festival?

Enroll in the History Department of China Normal University.