Because the belt has such a special function, the ancients attached great importance to it. Whether you wear official clothes or casual clothes, your belt should be tied around your waist. Over time, the belt has become an indispensable accessory in clothing, especially in ceremonies. "Nan Shi Liu Fuchuan": (Fu) Fang Daozheng, ... Brother is calling next door at night? Get out of bed and stand up straight if you don't answer, and then answer. After scolding him for a long time, he said, "I haven't finished tying my belt, so it's settled." "Even brothers meet in the evening, say a few words, also have to put on clothes, or you will feel impolite. This shows that the ancients paid attention to etiquette. This is especially true between the monarch and the minister. According to Ouyang Xiu's Record of Returning to the Field, Song Taizong called Gu Tao at night. Gu Zhi stood in front of the emperor, but refused to go in. Emperor Taizong immediately realized that this was because he didn't tie the belt, so he quickly asked the left and right to take a robe and tie it. Gu Tao saw the emperor wearing a belt, so he went in. At that time, it seemed disrespectful for the emperor to summon his courtiers without girding their waists, and he could not be polite to him. There are many kinds of ancient belts and their shapes are very complicated. But generally speaking, it can be divided into two categories, one is leather, which was called "leather" or "belt" in ancient times. One is made of silk, which was called "big belt" or "silk tapestry" in ancient times. There are also two kinds of belts called big belts. Before Qin and Han Dynasties, belts were mainly used by men, while women usually wore ribbons. "Shuowen" Gebu: "Men wear arrows and women wear silk. "That's what I mean. However, men can wear all kinds of ribbons besides belts. For example, The Book of Songs Cao Feng Dove: "A gentleman is a gentleman, and he takes thoughts. Zheng Xuan wrote a cloud: "If it has Issy, it is called a big belt. This big belt is made of silk with variegated decoration. "
According to the pre-Qin literature, the ribbon at that time was complex in shape, with different colors and patterns. From the emperor to the literati, the grade difference was very significant. For example, it is recorded in the Book of Rites Jade Algae: "The doctor always cares; The rate of training is reduced; Layman's ribbon; Disciple Dai Yu. " Again: "The doctor takes four inches. ..... Tian Zi Tai Su, Julie, the last monarch. " Zheng Xuan's note: "Doctors are all vegetarian, all four inches wide; Scholars practice, two inches wide. " Even there are strict regulations on the length and size of the drooping part after the belt is tied: "The gentleman's system is three feet long, and the company is two feet and five inches."
As for women, although there is no need to wear a belt, some of them hang down with a belt. Some of the names of this hanging belt are different from those of men's belts. In the Ming Dynasty, Yang Shen's "The Record of Xudan Lead" recorded: "In ancient times, there were women who grew up with them, and their children were named' Bei Zhi'. The name of the person who hangs down is Yan. The knot can be untied; The heart knot can't be solved. " What is "solvable" and what is "insoluble"? In today's words, it refers to slipknot and fast knot respectively. Any slipknot tied in a loop was called "buckle" in ancient times, while the fast knot tied was called "knot". Said the Ministry: "The connection can be solved." "The new button, the department also. It can be solved in an instant. " That's what I'm saying.
Sports belt
Sports belts include sports and leisure sports belts. Modern leisure sportswear pursues fashion and comfort.
The style of sports belt fully embodies the sports function and leisure comfort, and the materials and technology are also exquisite. Leather is soft and delicate, mainly calf leather and sheepskin, as well as some rare animal skins, such as kangaroos and crocodiles. Usually hand-made, exquisite accessories, pay attention to firmness, simplicity and convenience. The color is simple and bright, which fully embodies the perfect combination of fashion and sports leisure, and shows the healthy spirit of sports. Pursue the high quality taste of leisure life.
In ancient times, there were also clear regulations on the binding parts of belts. For example, the Book of Rites says: "Take it, don't be tired, be tired, and be a boneless person." Kong commented: "When there is no bone, if there is bone, it is difficult, so it is advisable to have no bone. This kind of deep dress is also worn in North Korea's etiquette clothing. The belt of the festival is near. " Therefore, "Jade Algae" said: "Take three points, and the gentleman will live in two places. It's four feet five inches below. " It can be seen that the binding position of the belt is completely determined according to the different shapes of various clothes. We can see from the figurines of the Warring States and even the Western Han Dynasty that women who wear deep skirts usually wear belts at the tips of their skirts to prevent their clothes from falling apart. The height of this belt depends on the height of the skirt. The belt is tied differently. Generally, there is a fixing device at the joint at the top of the belt, which can be used only by overlapping, and it is not necessary to tie each other like a ribbon. Generally speaking, there are two kinds of fixing devices installed on the belt head. A kind of hook is called "hook" or "belt hook"; The other is made into a ring, which is called "tassel" or "with tassel".
The appearance of hooked objects in China can be traced back to the Spring and Autumn Period. In the spring and autumn tombs in Beijing, Hebei, Henan, Shandong, Shanxi and other places, objects with hooks have been unearthed. Hook is often mentioned in the literature. Such as "Guan Zi Xiao Kuang": "Wu personally shot me on the hook." Historical Records Qi Taigong Family: "Hook with a small white belt" and so on. The raw materials for making hooks are mostly metals, such as gold, silver, copper and iron. But there are also jade, stone, bone and wood, but very few. Due to the different times and regions, the shape of the hook has many obvious changes. Some are made into sticks, some into Jackie Chan, some into beasts, some into birds, some into human figures, some into Jackie Chan, and the shapes of piano, spoon and pipa are endless. The production process of hooks is also very distinctive, some use engraving, some use inlay, some use engraving, some use wrong edition, and so on. As "Huai Nan Zi said Xun Lin" recorded: "There are different hooks all over the house."
The belt appeared later than the hook. The objects we have seen in recent years are all products after the Warring States Period. The so-called belt buckle refers to an annular belt buckle, which is square or round in shape and has a pin attached to it. When in use, insert the belt into the buckle, and then insert the buckle needle. Because it is stronger than a hook, it is popular. After the Three Kingdoms, the number of belt users increased gradually, while the number of hook users decreased gradually, and finally the belt hook was completely replaced. Hook belts, even gold belts and jade belts, which are popular in later generations, have replaced hooks with belts, and the mission of hooking has come to an end.
Although the belt is a device on the belt, it can sometimes be used to make ribbons. This kind of ribbon is different from silk tapestry. This is a wide belt made of silk. In historical records, there are common names such as belt and ribbon, which refer to this kind of belt. For example, Strange Tales said, "Zuxin saw a ribbon made of precious stones on Xingyi and Shang Rong's bed." Dong Guan Han Ji: "Zheng (Deng) obeyed the Huns, so he gave Kong Xianbei area." At the head of this belt and woven belt, there is a metal belt. The History of Jade Symbols records the dresses of famous women: "From the princess to the monarch, there are all ribbons, and the mining group is ribbons, each with its own ribbon color. Gold is used to ward off evil spirits. The first one is a ribbon decorated with white beads. " It can be seen that this kind of belt decorated with belts can be used not only for men, but also for women.