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Visiting the Ancient Village of Zhang Lan Town, Jiexiu City, Shanxi Province
During the Golden Week, I went to Shaanxi County, Henan Province, and saw seven or eight "pit yards", which I thought were unique residential forms in this area. Check Baidu, only to know that there are Pinglu and Shouyang in Shanxi. When I came back, I heard that there was such a courtyard in Shi Cun, Zhang Lan Town, and I immediately made up my mind to go and have a look.

This Sunday, when I was free, I went with Mr. Hou, Dong Xiping, Wu Jiyi, Luo Qi.

Shi Cun is located in the hilly area south of Zhang Lan Town, Jiexiu City, with more than 1700 people, which is considered as a relatively large village. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, with the ancient town of Zhang Lan as the center, there were many rich households in the surrounding villages, and the village castles and residential buildings were very imposing. Shi Cun is certainly one of them.

From Jiecheng, take Zhangban Highway to the town east of Zhang Lan, and you will arrive soon. Entering an alley in the east of the village primary school, you can see the tall rammed earth fort wall. Bypassing the northwest corner of the fort wall, the East Road is lined up in the north. First, the God of Wealth Temple, then the Zen Temple, then the Catholic Church, and then the Guandi Temple. The east wall of the castle clings to the ancient road. North and south of the ancient road, Guandi Temple was built on a deep doorway. I have seen many temples all over the world, but to be honest, the juxtaposition of Catholic Church and China Temple surprised me.

The road east is close to the ravine, and the terrain has dropped a lot. The earth wall between the road and the ditch is the location of the legendary "pit field".

"Pit courtyard" originated from ancient caves and gradually developed into a larger underground quadrangle, also known as "Pit courtyard". The Republic of China edition of Wenxi County Records records that when building a courtyard, "digging a large pit, digging a kiln on all sides, living in a corner of the courtyard, digging a dry well and sinking, reaching a flat slope", under the conditions at that time, it was quite hard to build such a courtyard. At present, there are many such courtyards in Sanmenxia, Henan, Shaanxi (ancient Shaanxi Province) and other places, some of which have a history of more than 200 years and are still inhabited. In villages that widely adopt this way of living, a strange sight of "no house in the village, no people in the hearing" has been formed.

In order to investigate the ancient villages, Mr. Wu almost traveled all over the villages in the nearby county and served as a guide for us. He is fully capable. Under his guidance, we visited five courtyards in a row.

These courtyards are not pit yards in the strict sense, but are made up of kiln digging and brick laying through the gentle slope beside the ditch. Among them, a courtyard near the ancient road is the most typical. Looking down from the top, there are three main rooms in the north, three caves in the eye and three rooms in the east and west. The place where we stand is on the top of the South Kiln. There is a ticket for Zhang Chaodong in the gap between the East Wing and the South Kiln, which is the passage in and out; There are also steps up and down in the gap between the East Room and the Upper Room. Siheyuan are all made of bricks, but the main room looks cleaner and less dusty. Weeds are everywhere in the kiln roof and courtyard, which was obviously abandoned a long time ago.

In another yard, thick wall bricks, simple brick arches and lotus ornaments, local straight-edge window style, and the pattern of brick niches at the door are rare in other places, which are suspected to be relics of the Yuan Dynasty. Dare not jump to conclusions, or leave it to experts to draw conclusions. In addition, several hospitals have similar structures, but they are dilapidated or even worse.

Teacher Luo loves writing. Whenever something touches his heart, he will stop and observe carefully. Mr. Yang is good at paper-cutting creation, focusing on decorative components. Everyone has their own interests and concerns, and the scenery in their eyes and the feelings in their hearts are naturally different.

Just watching, a villager came in. He vividly described how foreigners came to buy ancient courtyards, how they bought houses, how they demolished them, and how they carried away those ancient bricks and components. It doesn't sound like a taste, which makes people want to stay.

Next, go to Zen Hui Temple.

Chanhui Temple is next to the church. In front of us is a wide field, littered with straw and dry branches, surrounded by a cow in the east. The tall building on the north side of the venue and above the middle steps can't be seen as a mountain gate or a temple. There is a cultural revolution-style gate in the east. The red cursive couplets by the door are flying while flying, but there are actually typos.

The temple yard is also wide enough. The northernmost part is the main hall, which has been renovated in recent years. Fortunately, during the transformation, the Dougong of the Yuan Dynasty was preserved, which can be used as a basis for dating. On one side of the temple stands a monument, which was built during the Jiaqing period. A few meters below the steps, there is a lotus sumeru carved with coarse sand, which looks like something from the Northern Dynasties, but for some reason, there are two original stones on it. In the yard, two cypress trees with thick buckets have died, leaving only bare branches.

To the west is the Piandian, with broken glazed tiles and roofs removed from the old temple piled at the foot of the wall, many of which are Kong Quelan. There are a few lines written on the wall, which can be distinguished intermittently. It is propaganda when the revolutionary masses swept away embarrassment. The East Pai is purely newly built, surrounded by sheep and horses, with a strong smell of coquettish, which makes people stay away from it.

The history of Chanhui Temple can be traced back at least to the Northern Qi Dynasty, and it is one of the oldest Buddhist temples in China. On July 15th, the tenth year of natural forest protection in Northern Qi Dynasty (559), a thousand stone statues were built in the village of a Buddhist monk, Shi, Song and Zhang. During the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, Li Dunyu, a Yi people and minister of the Ministry of Industry, recorded it in the county annals. It is said that the stone building was preserved until the early years of the Republic of China, and finally it was lost.

With the passage of time, coupled with the earthquake, Uighur, war, and the preference for boys in cultural choice, the originally full history has lost its vitality, become increasingly dim and gradually disappear. Now, where can we find the truth about it?

When you come to Shi Cun, you can't help but visit Jingtu Temple.

Jingtu Temple is in the south of the village 10 mile. Leave the asphalt road, take another dirt road, stop at the edge of the ground far away, and then walk along the path full of weeds and wild jujube trees. On one side of the field is persimmon tree, with red persimmons scattered. Run over, jump up, grab the branches and pick two to taste, soft and sweet; The same is true of jujube, which is big and full, and slightly sour and sweet.

There is an isolated cape in the distance.

Mr. Xiping said it was the site of Jingtu Temple.

Walking to the front, there are rammed earth platforms on both sides of the road, which are suspected to be the outer doors of the temple. Walking in, I saw that the rammed earth wall in the south surrounded more than ten acres of land, all of which were stubble after corn harvest. Looking north, intermittent rammed earth walls surround a gourd-shaped platform. Further on, there is a narrow road 20 meters wide and less than two meters wide. There are steep slopes on both sides of the narrow road, and there are several remaining monuments between the hay half a person high on the slope.

Pass through the brick doorposts on both sides of the rammed earth gap and enter the earth paddock. Looking around, dozens of acres of land are wormwood. Take care of each other along the edge of the platform, walk carefully in waist-deep wormwood, avoid puddles that rush from time to time, and don't step on brick fragments. There are dry wells in the grass, so you can't see the deep bottom. Turning a corner, the top coupon of the upper half of the two-hole brick kiln was exposed inside the earth wall, indicating that the original ground was much lower. Where grass is sparse, you can casually see broken bricks and tiles, colored glass and fragments of building components. Pick up a piece casually, which is covered with wind, sculpture and rain erosion for hundreds of years.

Mr. Hou was the editor-in-chief of county annals. Speaking of Jingtu Temple, there are many treasures.

There used to be a temple here forty-five years ago (1566). I don't know if it is also called Jingtu Temple. According to county records, this year, under the organization of Xiao Ming, a monk, the Buddhist temple was changed to five, dozens of meditation rooms were built, and more than seven hectares were purchased as temple fields, gathering more than ten monks. On September 15 of the following year, in the late autumn season like this, Anda entered the country to kill and plunder. When Xiao Ming heard about it, he called the villagers to the temple for three days, and more than one thousand people survived. Subsequently, Xiao Ming, Xie Xiu, Zhen Xuan and others led people to dig a big pit, buried the victims, and set up a memorial in the west of Shi Cun. In the 12th year of Wanli, Xiao Ming renovated the temple again. More than 300 years later, a poet named Lang Mengyuan came to Sendai Village in the north of Shicun Village to pay his respects and wrote the poem "Mass Graves" with infinite emotion.

Listen and think, it is.

Walking to the northernmost point, I suddenly saw two abandoned coke ovens. Modern people are smart enough to build a coke-burning stove in such a secret place to avoid the inspection by the environmental protection department. Just today, it seems that such cleverness makes people feel funny.

Bypass the earth coke oven and climb the gap to the west. The ditch is so deep that you have to stand on the earth wall to rest assured. There are also large persimmon trees at the bottom of the ditch. Seen from a distance, the unopened persimmons look like red lanterns. They shivered in the desolate fields and the cold autumn wind. It suddenly occurred to me that maybe, in the late autumn hundreds of years ago, they were just so.

Go around, go out, climb to the west, go up to the heights, and look back at the whole earth enclosure. At the foot, some green oozed from the dead leaves. A few orioles, passing by, flew far away and disappeared into the boundless sky. Under that sky, the gray-yellow rammed earth wall seemed to be lost in thought in the silent autumn.

I went back to town for dinner, and then stopped by the antique city. Just slate, brick and stone carvings, old-fashioned farm tools and the like, all over the floor. It stopped for less than half an hour and left.

Rummaging through Lang Mengyuan's poems in the evening. Finally, I found it in the last few lines of the test of Jiexiu County Records and Ancient Sites in the Republic of China Edition:

Outside the huge mound, it is said that there are ten thousand people.

Bury your bones in a shady cliff and walk at midnight.

Save the suffering with Buddha, and take your life in troubled times.

There are many stones in the middle of nowhere, and it hurts to cling to the past.

Really depressed, not to mention.

On TV, the absurd drama of the US presidential election is being staged.

The picture in this article was taken by Dong Xiping.