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Women's wear in Rococo period

(1) Regency period of the Duke of Orleans (transitional period)

1.Naigriger is a daytime uniform with a large neckline and many box-shaped Pulitzer pleats on the back, which is in the form of a long skirt.

2. Panyr (meaning luggage basket and back cage), skirt, made of whalebone, iron wire, rattan, wood and hemp, is bell-shaped, also known as "ringing the bell to rob".

(2) Louis XV era (1730- 1770)

1.Panier, an increasingly large oval with flat front and back and wide left and right; Panyr? Dobl, left and right, getting bigger and bigger, tied to his body with a rope or a belt. Wear a petticoat outside, and then cover Rob who is open forward, revealing a corset decorated with a row of ribbon bows into an inverted triangle. Rob's A-shape was opened to reveal a petticoat decorated with ruffles, lace, ribbon bows and flowers. The neckline is large and square, the sleeves are elbow-length, and the cuffs have three layers of ruffles.

2. pee? Distoma, an inverted triangle chest block, made of silk, sewn on Rob, with exquisite embroidery and jewelry on it.

3. cole Balan ai- corset, the progress of production technology, is manifested in the number and direction of embedded whalebone, Basque inserted in the front center, tied at the back to make whalebone straight at the back, Rob opened in front of the outer cover, and the center of the chest was decorated with an acute inverted triangle.

(3) Louis XVI era

Rococo's "beautiful but frivolous" culture has turned to a "simple, noble, calm and great" classical culture, which is neoclassicism, which coincides with British naturalism and France's enlightenment of returning to nature. In clothing, headdress swells, skirt shrinks and Panyr disappears.

1. Rob? Huh? Pull? Influenced by Polish clothing, Polonaise is characterized in that the skirt part is lifted up at two places on the back side, and the buttocks are three soft protrusions; Rob? Huh? Pull? Celka Xiannu, inspired by the clothes of girls in Cherkasia, has three ropes tied to her skirt to form four swollen balls, which is the development of Polish Rob. These two Polish robbers are still using Panier.

2. Rob, huh? Languez-English Rob, more concise, embodies the naturalistic tendency, removes Panier, and the front and rear waistlines protrude downward, forming a sense of skirt volume through many pleats at the waistline seam.

3. Caraco-a functional women's coat that absorbs the form of men's wear, with tight upper body, wavy hem and buttocks, like a man's monastery, with whale whiskers embedded in the back to make it tall and straight, long sleeves and cropped sleeves-women's wear is close to the functional direction of men's wear.

4.Torniuer-hip pad, which replaced the skirt and bulged the back hip again, is called You Ke? De? Paris.

5. 1780s, Panyr disappeared, and her skirt became soft. She continued to wear a corset and a shawl, and Bai Rob was popular. Dan Lu Guote, who came from England, wore it outside.

At the beginning of Tianbao, both nobles and scholars liked to serve Hu Mao. The so-called Hu clothing in the Tang Dynasty not only refers to the costumes of ethnic minorities, but also includes a large number of foreign costumes. The Tang Dynasty was the peak period in the development history of feudal society in China. Chang 'an, the capital at that time, was not only the economic and cultural center of China, but also a world-famous metropolis and cultural exchange center between the East and the West. According to historical records, more than 300 countries had contacts with the Tang Dynasty. At that time, Chang 'an was not only inhabited by Han people, Uighurs, Kucha people and Nanzhao people, but also a large number of foreigners, such as Japanese, Silla people (North Korea), Persians (Iran), Arabs, Vietnamese and Indians. These brothers and foreign emissaries gathered in Chang 'an and absorbed many essences from China culture. To this day, some countries in China's eastern neighbors, such as Japan and North Korea, still retain China's traditional clothing system. China people have also gained many beneficial things from foreign cultures, and the popularity of Khufu in the Central Plains is a concrete reflection. Compared with the past, a remarkable feature of advocating Khufu in the Tang Dynasty is that many women wear Khufu. This phenomenon was closely related to the cultural life at that time, especially the popularity of Hu dance, which had a great influence on the changes of women's clothing. It shows the close relationship between Chinese and western people. They exchanged and merged with each other, which made western culture take root in Tang society. The customs of the western regions have influenced the social life of the Tang Dynasty, and had a far-reaching impact on the costumes, music and dance of the Han nationality.

From the early Tang Dynasty to the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the northern nomadic people Xiongnu, Qidan and Uighur contacted the Central Plains many times, and camel caravans on the Silk Road came in an endless stream, which had a great influence on the costumes of the Tang Dynasty.

The culture that came with the Hu people, especially the national costume of Khufu, which contains many national elements such as India and Persia, made women in the Tang Dynasty feel refreshed.

As a result, a gust of wind swept the cities in the Central Plains, especially Chang 'an and Luoyang, and their ornaments were the most peculiar. Yuan Zhen's poem: "Since Hu rode the smoke and dust, it has been full of stench. Women have studied Hu makeup and have been engaged in Hu Wei ... Hu Yin Hu rode and Hu makeup for fifty years."

Tang Xuanzong loved Hu Dance and Hu Le, and Yang Guifei and An Lushan were experts in Hu Dance. Bai Juyi's Song of Eternal Sorrow is a kind of Hu dance. In addition, Huntuo Dance, Dead Branch Dance and Hu Xuan Dance also have great influence on Han music, dance, costumes and other artistic categories. You can also imagine the exciting scene of "all male and female servants study in one group" at that time.