Fashion editors in the past century

Nearly a century has been divided into Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo periods.

revive

Divide the clothes into several parts, each part is composed independently, and then assemble them together to form a clear shape. There are Italian, German and Spanish styles.

In the Italian style era, men's wear was a combination of Pulpo and Xiao Si, and underwear was shortened, which was called summer shirt in English. Pulpo Wan Yi is hip-length and wears a belt, including a round neck, a chicken heart collar, a stand-up collar and a high stand-up collar. The dress is spread horizontally. Shaw was dressed very tightly, with half boots and large lapels, and Gagnion and Matt were decorated with fake sleeves and raw edges. The dress with seams at the waist is called Rob. The neckline is very big, with many bare breasts, and the waist is very high, reaching the ground in length. Sleeves have tight sleeves and lotus root-like sleeves, and there are many cracks in elbows, upper arms and forearms, exposing Humez. Cutting up and down is the basic idea of dividing the whole dress into several parts. The women's coat is Mante, with bright colors, high waist, brace, decorative sleeves and big Mante collar. Jopin, high heels,/kloc-was replaced by high heels in the second half of the 6th century.

The main features of German style in the German style era-Slaxiu decoration, that is, cracks and cuts. In German men's wear, the composition of Pulpo Wan is basically similar to that of Gothic era, including Pulitzer pleats, high stand collars, underwear collars, and small pleats, which is the predecessor of large pleated collars. At this time, Pulpo's name was Dabrit, wearing a skirt with eggplant and a Chavube (the meaning of Mante in French). The dress is knee-length or ankle-length, with loose body and sleeves, fur lining or fur edge, large lapels and fake sleeves. The man was wearing bulging shorts-Britz's, with a wedge-shaped cloth covering his crotch in the middle, and later developed into a small pocket, decorated with loose pants and padding. German women's wear first imitated Italy, with a square low neckline and decorated with a small shawl with a vertical collar-Cora Kohler, and later became a high collar, and Cora became a small pleated collar, which was the predecessor of the later big collar; At first, the sleeves were big, the back neckline became smaller, the sleeves became thinner, and the sleeves were decorated with Slaxiu. The skirt is enlarged with many Pulitzer pleats or several layers of petticoats, and then covered with a Pulitzer pleated apron. Women's clothes have high waist, narrow shoulders, thin waist, big skirt, rich buttocks and a particularly wide abdomen.

The appearance characteristics of Spanish clothing in the era of Spanish style: majestic, orthodox and calm monochrome, especially black is full of Catholic mysticism and asceticism. Known as the filling age, it is characterized by men's tops and shorts, men's and women's sleeves filled with fillers, and the surface decorated with Slaxiu. The independently produced and used ruffled "Ralph" is very popular. The invention and use of the skirt support "Faqin Gail" in women's clothing is called stereotypes. In contrast to the swelling of the lower body, women's upper body is popular with corsets. Peck ". ① The biggest feature of Spanish men's wear is the extensive use of fillers. Pulpo Wan used fillers on his shoulders, chest, abdomen and sleeves. There are three shapes of sleeves: puffs? Slibu, "Kigo" sleeve, lotus-shaped Bilagos Slibu. ② Filler is also used on the Brizi of shorts to make it upward. (3) Shoss is divided into upper and lower sections, and the upper section is in the shape of Austria. De? The lower part of Shos is tight, isn't it, De? Shos。 Black was very popular in the Spanish style era. /kloc-In the second half of the 6th century, the phenomenon of feminization of men's wear and masculinization of women's wear appeared, and men's and women's underwear were very close, and women's underwear increased the variety of pants.

baroque

These parts are completely connected together, forming a flowing and unified tone, the boundary disappears, and the overall feeling is enhanced, showing a strong and dynamic appearance. Baroque originally meant: non-traditional pearls with flaws in appearance; Generally refers to all kinds of unconventional, bizarre and deviant things; Practices that violate the laws of nature and the standards of classical art. The characteristics of Baroque style are: ① grand, energetic, dynamic and tense, paying attention to light and its effects, being good at expressing all kinds of strong feelings and infinite feelings, and quite inclined to break all kinds of artistic boundaries. (2) Emphasize the expression, change and movement of feelings and decorate them with gorgeous curves. People advocate change, pursue uniqueness and have excessive decoration. (3) In clothing, the Baroque style is characterized by not sticking to traditional modeling, freely pursuing changes, paying attention to details and skills, and paying more attention to the surface decoration of clothes-lace, ribbon and embroidery, rather than the exquisiteness of cutting and sewing.

the rococo period

The strength of men is replaced by the slender and graceful women, and the narrow clothing culture reaches its peak in the artificial beauty of clothing. In the past century, the same characteristics of * * * clothing: extreme gender differentiation, poor exaggeration and emphasis, formed a pattern of gender opposition. Men are close to the upper body and the lower body, with the center of gravity in the upper body and full of vitality; The upper part of the female body is bare and the lower part is enlarged skirt, showing the female characteristics of the trinity of chest, waist and buttocks, which is a static state. [8]

5 Modern Fashion Editor

Modern times can be divided into five periods: ① Neoclassicism (1789-1825); ② Romantic period (1825-1850); ③ New Rococo (1850-1870); ④Basl； ⑤ S-shaped stage.

Neoclassical period

Men's wear in the early neoclassicism: embroidery and decoration were reduced, and the fabric was changed from unisex gorgeous silk fabric to simple wool fabric. (1) Niol, Karma, originally a jacket worn by Italian workers, with wide lapels and buttons. ②Pontaron-Pants, also known as "Sang? Kyurot "is a revolution to the trousers Kyurot worn by nobles." "Red, white and blue striped wool fabric symbolizes revolution. The couple with Pontaron are wearing double-breasted vests and a red hat without a brim. (3) Miskadan-Gray fraker, a green Krabat, wearing tight Quirot and booties and holding a staff of civilization. (4) Ang Crova Yi Yabul-long hair hanging down like a dog's ear, or braided, wearing a double-breasted hat and a double-breasted coat with a large lapel and a waist. Karabat circled around his neck several times, hung by a sling, tied with ribbons under his knees, wearing lapel boots or shallow shoes and holding a civilized staff. (two forms of Flack: dovetail and dressing gown. (6) It is best to use striped fabrics with single or double rows of buttons and lapels, which are often turned out and pressed on the coat collar. The characteristics of early neoclassical women's wear are: the shape is extremely simple and simple, which is in sharp contrast with the rococo style with many decorations and affectation; Women's clothing tends to the natural style of ancient Greece and Rome. In the era of imperial style, Napoleon took the harmonious system of Rome as his ideal, imitated the Romanesque style, attempted to revive the Roman spirit, and pursued gorgeous aristocratic taste in dress. Men's wear has returned to the Louis XVI era, and the general bourgeoisie is still a combination of Flack, Kirai and Pontaron. Napoleon's worship of ancient Rome is mainly reflected in women's clothing at this time, which is the continuation and development of neoclassical style in the previous period. Modeling features: high waist emphasizes chest height, slender skirt, short bubble sleeves (imperial puff), and square neckline is very large and low. Later, the skirt became shorter and the hem became wider, with ruffles, ruffles and lace. The neckline is mainly square, the chest is exposed, and the shoulders are not exposed much. The collar is decorated along the collar nest (two or three layers of fine pleats), as well as a high collar and a wrinkled collar. Mamluk-Tie loose long sleeves into several bubble sleeves with thin strips. There are also bubble sleeves, long sleeves and wavy sleeves. Short bubble sleeves are used as etiquette clothes, and long sleeves are used for outdoor or family casual clothes. Since then, the distinction between occasions on clothes has begun to be clearly distinguished. Clothes overlap and skirts overlap in two colors. Strange clothes —— Similarity phenomenon in the period of clothing style transformation. As the amount of skirt increases, the wave pleats increase, and different colors of cloth are added to increase the weight and swelling feeling of skirt. Clothing is mainly white, and embroidery, edge decoration, collar decoration and shore use are rich in colors. Bathrobe, underwear, the main underwear are Xiumizi, Peticott, Dorothy, Pontarone, corset and so on. /kloc-at the end of 0/9, women wear pants as coats. Corset, a new type of corset, is hip-length and made of several layers of twill or rubber-coated hard linen. Insert the slender triangular crotch cloth into the chest and buttocks to make them fit, lift the breast forward, tighten and flatten the waist and abdomen, and tie the center of the back with a rope. [9]

Romantic period

Oppose classicism and rationalism, escape from reality, yearn for poetic utopia, tend to subjective feelings and beautiful sadness, emphasize the superiority of feelings, and take the resurrection of medieval culture as the ideal. Women's wear creates an elegant atmosphere full of fantasy. Under the influence of romantic women's wear, men's wear waist and shoulder pads. The basic modeling of men's wear: the combination of Flack, Pontaron and Kilai. Women's wear in the romantic period is mainly characterized by inactive women's wear. From 1822, the waistline descends and reaches the natural position from 1830. The waist is narrowed by the corset, the sleeves are extremely inflated, and the skirt expands outward to form an X-shape. There are two extreme forms of romantic neckline: high neckline-bold low neckline. The high neckline is often pleated, and the wrinkled collar and shawl collar with several layers of lace trim are also used; The low neckline is usually decorated with large lapels or overlapping glitter and lace. These two collar types are sometimes used in combination. Characteristic sleeve type, the sleeve root is extremely exaggerated, and the sleeve root is filled with whalebone, metal wire or feather. High-necked clothes mostly use leg sleeves of lamb, low-necked bubble sleeves decorated with Slaxiu, and shawl sleeves with several layers of lace flying edges on the sleeves. Later, long sleeves with tight sleeves and open forearms appeared. Another pair of shiny pants. 1830, pants, tights, boots, men's jackets with leg sleeves, men's carabat, top hat and deerskin gloves appeared in women's clothing, which is a sign that women's clothing is moving closer to functional men's clothing. It is also another aspect of pursuing romance and fashion. [ 10]

Neorococo period

There are chemical dyes, sewing machines, patterns and high-end fashion shops. Simple and practical British men's black suit is still a combination of coat, Kilay and Pontarone, but the difference is that all three-piece suits are made of the same color fabric, which establishes the habit of dressing according to the purpose. There are four kinds of coats: daily uniform-dress? Kurt, the front placket is straight, double-breasted, slightly above the knee, and the lapels are satin of the same color. Later, it became the official dress of that day. Also known as "Prince? Albert. Kurt. " Evening dress. -Tell me? Kurt, that is, the tuxedo, the butt of the gun, the front piece is as long as the waistline, and the back piece is divided into two tuxedos, knee-length. A dressing gown for one day. Mao Ning? Kurt, from a riding suit, has a front cut obliquely backwards from the waist, with a transverse slit at the waist, and the back piece is split to the waist. There are two decorative buttons at the top of the split, which are knee-length and four decorative buttons at the cuffs. Casual wear-best on, English is called "Laonki? Jacket "(casual jacket) is what China people call a" suit ". There is no horizontal tailor at the waist, and the waist is slightly closed, and the clothes are as long as the hips. Generally, it is flat-headed, single-breasted and double-breasted. The United States calls it a "sack" because it is loose and comfortable. Kurt is often combined with vests and trousers of the same material, and is called "Taron? Time, "(town clothes), also known as" Bikini? Siji. " Double-breasted killedo with sports coat, V-neck single-breasted killedo for evening dress, lapels are mostly used for day dress. Gorgeous embroidery is replaced by plaid or stripes. Women's clothing admired Louis XVI's gorgeous style, but did not pursue functionality. As a result, the skirt expanded and a new skirt appeared-Clinolin. [ 1 1]

Basel period

19 In the 1970s, the skirt was removed and a prince with a fitted dress appeared. Princess skirts and hip pads-Basl, appeared twice at the end of 17 and 18, and revived in the 1970s and 1980s, so this period is called Basl period. Rayon and rayon came out. Men's wear is still a three-piece suit of jacket, Pontaron and Chilai. Modern shirts and ties have lapels and collars. Crabat is divided into big scarf and small tie. 1890, Nike Tower became today's draw form, and the draw method was fixed. This tie is called "Fuao? Print? Hands (four hands). Men's wear (including women's wear) can be divided into different kinds of street clothes (shopping clothes), sportswear and social clothes. In addition to highlighting the characteristics of the buttocks, women's clothing has another feature: support. It is a beautiful S-shape in the 1990s, because it has a tight abdomen, flattens the abdomen, and emphasizes the appearance characteristics of "protruding forward and turning back". The collar is high during the day and low at night. [ 12]

S period

The so-called S-shape is that the corset holds up the chest in front, flattens the abdomen, narrows the waist, and naturally reveals the plump buttocks. From the moment to the hem, the skirt opens naturally like a trumpet, forming a trumpet-shaped wavy skirt. Viewed from the side, it looks like an S-shape, hence its name. Because American painter Gibson likes to paint this style, it is also called Gibson shape. In the field of art, there is a movement trend that denies the traditional modeling style, that is, the "Art Nouveau Movement", which is mainly manifested in flowing decorative curve modeling and S-shaped, whirlpool-shaped, wavy and vine-shaped asymmetric free and smooth continuous curves, with the goal of breaking the past tradition and liberating from the historical style. Men's wear is still in the form of a three-piece suit. Kilay has a small lapel and pursues the unified beauty of the same color and homogeneity as the coat and trousers. Pantalong is still loose pants. In 19 10, men wear shoulder pads to emphasize the horizontal width. Trousers are loose and fat at the hips, and the cuffs are narrowed in an inverted triangle, but1915 is popular with wide cuffs. Shirts and ties are very particular. The shirt has a collar and lapels, and there is a small corner in front of the collar. Women's wear has entered an important transition period from classical style to modern style. Basl disappeared, and its shape became slender, beautiful and smooth. 1908, the women's dress was changed into a straight line with relaxed waist, and the skirt began to leave the ground, revealing shoes. Great progress has been made in the composition technology of corset. Since the Renaissance, it has lasted for more than 300 years until19th century. Girls wearing corsets are called "corset education". When the women's dress is transformed into an S-shape, the corset becomes longer, the number of splicing pieces decreases, the elastic cloth is inserted into the buttocks, and the upper body becomes shorter and shorter. Finally, the bra came into being, and the corset was separated from top to bottom, and the corset became underwear that was only responsible for tidying up the waist, abdomen and buttocks. [ 13]