From Kangding to the expressway, a long tunnel to Ya 'an feels like taking the subway. After I came out, I had arrived at Qingyi River and suddenly changed the world.
I plan to live in Hongya county, get off the expressway ahead of time and take a section of national highway along Qingyi River. I thought it was a smooth road when I got off the plateau, but I didn't want the riverside to be full of hills. The national highway runs along the river, and many sections of Linjiang are cliffs. There is a tea mountain by the roadside. It is gloomy and cold, but it is the favorite environment for tea growth. This area has been the most important tea producing area in Sichuan since ancient times, and the section of 35 1 national highway is also the ancient tea-horse road.
After crossing Caoyutan and not walking along the river, I found that the road along the river collapsed, so I had to cross the bridge and take the township road through Caoyutan Town. I was going to stay in a hotel in a tea garden on the edge of Hongya county on the national highway. Passing through the village, I saw the street sign of Liujiang ancient town at a fork in the road, which is closer than Hongya county, so I diverted to Liujiang ancient town.
When I arrived in the ancient town, I realized that there was no river called Liujiang. The ancient town is surrounded by Huaxi River and Yangcun River, a tributary. The ancient town, known as "Yueming Town" in history, was built in Shaoxing in the Southern Song Dynasty for ten years (1 140). In the middle of Qing Dynasty, because there was a slate long street built by Liu and Jiang in the town, it was renamed "Liujiangchang", and 1780 named it "Liujiangchang". Until now, it has been called Liujiang Ancient Town.
There are no tickets and there are few people in the off-season. We drove directly into B&B Street in the ancient town and stopped at the entrance of the hotel selected online. The proprietress is clever and considerate. After seeing that we were satisfied with the room, she immediately dropped another piece from the lowest price on the Internet and immediately decided to stay one more day.
The so-called homestay street is actually a new street next to the old riverside street. The house is a reinforced concrete structure, and the facade is antique and good, which improves the accommodation conditions without affecting the style of the ancient town.
Cross a street and walk down the stone steps to the old street. What the ancient town needs most is food. Because there is no unified demolition and development, most restaurants and shops in the old street are operated by local people using their old houses, and the prices are quite affordable. There are eight bowls and nine bowls everywhere. Of course, you can't let go of seasonal bamboo shoots. Unfortunately, two people's appetites are too small to order too much. Snacks can be seen everywhere. I couldn't resist the temptation. I bought half a sweet-skinned duck and half a catty of mulberry wine, and dinner was solved. Tofu brain is a standard in all ancient towns in Sichuan. The difference is that the ingredients have their own characteristics. Similarly, every place claims that its own is the most authentic in the world.
You can go shopping when you are full. The ancient town has completely preserved the architectural features of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The antique wooden house with hanging feet is built by the ancient trees of Huangge along the mountains and rivers, and a long stone street is full of vicissitudes.
Older than houses are ancient trees. There are not only many huge ancient trees of Geliugu, but also a Euonymus japonicus which is said to be over 200 years old.
There are few tourists, and the students scattered around sketching add a lot of life flavor.
Where there is a river, there is a bridge. A wooden bridge and two stone bridges connect the two banks. I don't understand why there is such a big gap between the two stones in the middle stone bridge. It's really a bit of an egg to cross in one step, and the shorter one can only jump away, so it's really a rock jump.
On the one hand, it is a diaojiao building in western Sichuan style, and on the other hand, it is Zengjiayuan, which is listed as a national cultural relics protection unit. In Liujiang history, there were four families: Zeng, Zhang, Yang and He. There are folk sayings of "Zeng family, Yang family, Zhang family and He family". Zengjiayuan is a well-preserved family manor, which was built in 1927- 1937 and took 10 years. The original area is 1 162 1 square meter, with a total construction area of 5402 square meters, which is a layout of "four hospitals and three stations".
I have always admired the openness, flexibility, perseverance and optimism of Sichuanese, who are closer to the commodity economy. It stands to reason that the southwest region has been in a corner for a long time, and the conservatism, stubbornness and shortsightedness of agricultural society have prevailed under the natural economy. An important reason may be because of immigration. People have been emigrating to Sichuan since the Qin Dynasty. Since the Qing dynasty, it has been a completely immigrant area. Most of the original residents were killed by Zhang, but most of the current residents were filled by Huguang and Sichuan. According to Zeng Jiayuan's exhibition, many family ancestors here migrated from Guanzhong in the Tang Dynasty.
It rained heavily, so I went back to the hotel to find the proprietress and contacted the people in the tea factory to buy new tea.
The next day was still foggy and rainy.
Breakfast is the most local noodle. The taste is Sichuan, and the breadth looks like Lamian Noodles in Guanzhong.
Walking to the north of the ancient town, I saw a newly-built house, thick log beams and tall old-fashioned doors. I thought it was a new homestay, but the owner was on the other side and warmly invited us to visit. It turned out to be a flip. The entrance is an ancient stone step, especially photogenic.
In and around the ancient town, there are still many families living in traditional old houses with black tile and wood structure. Brick houses at the beginning of the last century have also been preserved.
It is drizzling, which is inconvenient, but this is the most typical painting meaning of "misty rain and Liujiang River". Green shoots, flowers with nameless branches, and fragrant roses on the shore are unforgettable.
Even in rainy days, Sichuanese will not slow down the pace of playing mahjong. In addition to the diaojiao building by the river, there are dam tea mahjong tables everywhere along the river. Tourists are scarce, and most of them are gathered. Although it is a little deserted at the moment, it is conceivable that tea tables are set up in the peak season, and thousands of people drink tea and play mahjong, which is spectacular and lively.
We chose the most favorable observation position by the old street river, made tea and slowly enjoyed the town time.
The most amazing thing is that Sichuan aunt is free and unrestrained, enjoying herself without scruple. Returning from the paradise scenic spot on the Sichuan-Tibet line, I love the fireworks here.
Liujiang ancient town was originally a place for Sichuanese to play water, enjoy the cool, drink tea and play mahjong in summer. Ancient towns are as common to Sichuanese as white wine and green tea. Few people in Sichuan pay attention to the price of liquor and green tea, but they care about the quality. 10 yuan a catty of bulk liquor, 100 yuan a catty of green tea can be seen everywhere, in fact, they are all good. Who dares to say that he knows more about wine and tea than Sichuanese? Not to mention that Lu Yu wrote the Book of Tea here, it is an indisputable fact that all the good wines in the world are out of Sichuan. So I want to sell tickets around the ancient town of Sichuan and make money by packaging. There is no way. In my impression, there are almost no tickets for the ancient towns in Sichuan. It is also in this way that the style and temperament of the ancient town can be preserved and they all live better.