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Analysis of Silk Pattern Making Technology in Song Dynasty
Silk patterns are light and natural, with rich themes, and tend to be realistic and decorative. Its production technology continues the foundation of the previous generation, and many new technologies have appeared at the same time. Through the analysis of the contents of silk patterns in Song Dynasty, this paper reveals the development of silk weaving technology and the progress of production technology, introduces in detail the presentation methods of silk patterns in Song Dynasty, and shows the charm of silk culture in Song Dynasty. 1. Due to the huge demand of silk industry in the Song Dynasty, the Song Dynasty attached great importance to the production of silk products, and the government-run silk weaving institutions were huge and the division of labor was fine. Under the supervision of Shaofu government, there are brocade academy, dyeing academy, embroidery academy, arts and crafts academy, tailor academy and so on. Among them, there are more than 40 workshops in different departments, including embroidery, tailoring, silk shoes, belt sewing and silk reeling. In the Song Dynasty, the social and economic center of gravity moved south, and Suzhou, Hangzhou and Sichuan gradually became silk weaving centers. With the development of commodity economy, the private silk weaving handicraft industry in Song Dynasty also developed generally. It has become the development trend of the times to completely break away from agriculture and specialize in brocade production. On the basis of inheriting the previous generation, the textile technology in Song Dynasty reached a highly developed stage in terms of textile organization, structure and materials. In textile industry, silk production accounts for a considerable proportion. Luo, twill, silk, yarn, silk, satin and brocade are all made by different silk weaving techniques. At this time, silk weaving technology and craft are rich and colorful. Different silk weaving techniques can weave different silk textures, from simple plain weave and twill weave to complex jacquard patterns, all of which can be realized by weaving techniques. Second, the characteristics of silk patterns in Song Dynasty. Pattern refers to the pattern on jacquard fabric, and the different ground patterns of silk produced by various processes do not belong to the category of pattern. There are many kinds of silk patterns in Song Dynasty, including geometric patterns, flower patterns, animal patterns, character patterns and so on. And each topic has countless branches. From the organizational form of patterns, there are continuous, scattered, grouped, broken and worn patterns, as well as various suitable compositions. In addition, from the image of the pattern, there are many types such as realism, abstraction and exaggeration. The silk patterns in Song Dynasty are consistent with the decorative patterns in the whole period, with plants and flowers prevailing, paying more attention to realism and even tending to draw decorative patterns. In 2000, the names of plant-themed silks used for mounting calligraphy and painting were Dahua, Baihua, Tangzilian, Qingying, Fangtuan Baihua, Yishen, Swiss Grass, Flower Magpie, Hualien, Daoxian Peony, heavy lotus and Jujube Flower. It can be seen that the plant patterns at that time were rich. In addition, from the formal point of view, the patterns of plant themes include pure flower patterns and patterns combined with other themes, which are rich in variety. Silk patterns in Song Dynasty were both realistic, painterly and decorative, which was closely related to the prevalence of painting at that time. Reeling plays an important role in the expression of silk painting patterns. Another feature of silk patterns in Song Dynasty lies in the secularization trend of their themes. If the vivid and natural flower-and-bird patterns represent the aesthetic world of literati and painters, then the treasure patterns with auspicious meanings represent the beliefs and wishes of ordinary villages. In the Song Dynasty, Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism were integrated, and the culture was prosperous and there were many secularization patterns. Three. The production technology of silk patterns in Song Dynasty 1. Weaving technology gradually developed to the end of the Song Dynasty, and since the day of independence, it was geographically divided and ruled by several regimes. Although the Song Dynasty was weak militarily, it lagged far behind neighboring countries in the development of commodity economy, science and technology and culture. The Song Dynasty was a period of rapid development of science and technology in the history of China. The development of science and technology provides conditions for silk weaving technology. With the accumulation of textile public relations experience

The Southern Song Dynasty's Record of Dropping Out of Farming in Louchou South Village specifically recorded the production situation of farming and weaving at that time, in which the information system of silk production form and technology in the weaving map reflected the production process of sericulture and silk reeling at that time. The production process of silk is recorded, including tying, dipping, winding, pulling, weaving and climbing. After cocoon formation. The specialization of production and weaving reflects the progress of production technology. There are specialties in the industry, and a large number of specialized workshops have silk products with unique local characteristics. There are already high-level jacquard twill machines, roving frames and so on. Silk production tools. The flower-climbing map in the ploughing map shows the whole picture of the jacquard twill machine in the Southern Song Dynasty in detail, reflecting the development and progress of jacquard technology. On the loom in the middle of the climbing flower, the fuselage changed from horizontal to slightly inclined, part of it sank in the into the pit, and more than ten healds rose and fell regularly. With the ups and downs of warp yarns, weavers echo each other and throw weft yarns around. The flower tower is very high on the plane, and the gardener sits on the top of the frame to arrange flowers. Gardeners and gardeners weave brocade patterns on the surface of silk in an orderly way. With this jacquard machine, there are not only varieties such as brocade, twill, silk, silk, yarn and ten thousand, but also patterns, colorful flowers, plain flowers, natural shapes and geometric shapes. There are also many exquisite silk patterns, such as purple flowers and five-color reeds on purple platforms. In addition, the loom is similar to the twill loom in shape, but equipped with double warp beams. Two flat healds and two twisted healds are installed in front of the loom. The two twisted heddles consist of a basic heddle and a semi-heddle, and the coils of the two semi-heddles pass through the lower opening of the basic heddle from the outside and then hook each other. Twisted heddles interconnected by half heddles are twisted heddles in pairs. There is a greenhouse in the fuselage, and the jacquard heddle hangs from the top of the machine into the arc pit. When knitting, one weaver sits in the shed and lifts the heald, while the other person steps on the pedal. One hand has shuttle weft insertion, the other hand uses reed beating, flat heald and twisted heald weaving. The greenhouse is full of tricks. For the beautification of silk, weaving and climbing flowers can not only change color in brocade, but also the technology of adding gold is becoming more and more mature. 18 gold weaving and twisting method. 2. Handmade Silk Reeling Process Zhuang Chuo Plough Record: There is no large-scale silk weaving and carving in Dingzhou, and cooked colored silk is used on wood to let flowers and animals do whatever they want. When weaving a weft yarn with a small shuttle, keep it first, and then thread it on the warp yarn with variegated thread, so that you can write. If there is no contact. It looks like a carved image, so it is called silk carving. If you like a woman's clothes, she will grow old at the end of her life. Although different flowers can be made, the weft cover is not woven by shuttle. This paper describes the technological characteristics of silk reeling. Besides reeling, hooking and weaving, there are also methods of knotting. Similar two-color or three-color reeling is carried out in the order of light color levels, including long and short reeling, core-spun reeling, mother-child warp and wooden comb. Treasures handed down from ancient times include the Peony Map of Kerou Zhu and Camellia Map of Kochi. 3.3. The production of KSTMJ silk patterns is not limited to weaving and hand weaving. Embroidery, which relies more on manual operation, is also one of the ways to present patterns. Embroidery in Song Dynasty can be divided into practicality and appreciation. Due to the advocacy of the ruling class in Song Dynasty, the rise of literati and gentry, and the prosperity of flower-and-bird painting, embroidery works imitated celebrity calligraphy and painting and became the mainstream at that time, and the appreciation of embroidery works became an art. The appreciation of embroidery works not only needs craftsmanship, but also needs artistic accomplishment that can integrate calligraphy and painting. A variety of embroidery techniques appeared in Song Dynasty, such as needle roller, spinning needle, reverse sewing, Ping Jin, sewing thread, net embroidery and door.

Hollow-out pattern printing is to carve patterns on a very thin pattern board, such as a very thin wooden board or a specially treated tung oil bamboo board. This pattern board is placed on the processed blank silk, and the hollowed-out part is coated with sticky color paste, indicating that the pattern is fine. Dyeing techniques were popular in Song Dynasty, which were divided into two types: stranding and clamping. Twisting has developed many new names such as deer fetus, kneading, cocoon and philosophy, while sandwich has developed flower filling, sizing and waxing. The specific operation method of sizing and waxing is to clamp the silk fabric with two identical hollowed-out flower plates, coat the hollowed-out places with slurry or wax to prevent dyeing, and loosen the flower plates for dyeing. 5. Hand-painted silk fabrics are used for hand-painted decoration, including line drawing, color filling and painting. The hand-painted way is simple and easy to control, and the pattern is delicate. Painting clay gold on the fabric is also an important means to increase the gorgeous effect of the fabric by hand painting. References: Zhao Feng, Xu Zhenzhong. Dyeing and weaving of ancient silk and splendid costumes, Cultural Relics Publishing House, 2008:35 Miao. Loulan Plough and Silk Production in Song Dynasty, Journal of Suzhou Institute of Silk Technology, 1982. 20 12 summary. History of Silk Patterns in China, Heilongjiang Fine Arts Publishing House, 1990: 123 Yuan Xuanping, Zhao Feng. History of Silk Culture in China, Shandong Fine Arts Publishing House, 2009: 142 Note: Zhao Feng, Xuzhng. Dyeing and Weaving of Ancient Silk in splendid china Clothing, Journal of Suzhou Institute of Silk Technology, 1982, China Ancient Jacquard Loom and Its Technical Analysis, Overview of Modern Silk Technology, 20 12. History of Silk Patterns in China