The Southern Song Dynasty's Record of Dropping Out of Farming in Louchou South Village specifically recorded the production situation of farming and weaving at that time, in which the information system of silk production form and technology in the weaving map reflected the production process of sericulture and silk reeling at that time. The production process of silk is recorded, including tying, dipping, winding, pulling, weaving and climbing. After cocoon formation. The specialization of production and weaving reflects the progress of production technology. There are specialties in the industry, and a large number of specialized workshops have silk products with unique local characteristics. There are already high-level jacquard twill machines, roving frames and so on. Silk production tools. The flower-climbing map in the ploughing map shows the whole picture of the jacquard twill machine in the Southern Song Dynasty in detail, reflecting the development and progress of jacquard technology. On the loom in the middle of the climbing flower, the fuselage changed from horizontal to slightly inclined, part of it sank in the into the pit, and more than ten healds rose and fell regularly. With the ups and downs of warp yarns, weavers echo each other and throw weft yarns around. The flower tower is very high on the plane, and the gardener sits on the top of the frame to arrange flowers. Gardeners and gardeners weave brocade patterns on the surface of silk in an orderly way. With this jacquard machine, there are not only varieties such as brocade, twill, silk, silk, yarn and ten thousand, but also patterns, colorful flowers, plain flowers, natural shapes and geometric shapes. There are also many exquisite silk patterns, such as purple flowers and five-color reeds on purple platforms. In addition, the loom is similar to the twill loom in shape, but equipped with double warp beams. Two flat healds and two twisted healds are installed in front of the loom. The two twisted heddles consist of a basic heddle and a semi-heddle, and the coils of the two semi-heddles pass through the lower opening of the basic heddle from the outside and then hook each other. Twisted heddles interconnected by half heddles are twisted heddles in pairs. There is a greenhouse in the fuselage, and the jacquard heddle hangs from the top of the machine into the arc pit. When knitting, one weaver sits in the shed and lifts the heald, while the other person steps on the pedal. One hand has shuttle weft insertion, the other hand uses reed beating, flat heald and twisted heald weaving. The greenhouse is full of tricks. For the beautification of silk, weaving and climbing flowers can not only change color in brocade, but also the technology of adding gold is becoming more and more mature. 18 gold weaving and twisting method. 2. Handmade Silk Reeling Process Zhuang Chuo Plough Record: There is no large-scale silk weaving and carving in Dingzhou, and cooked colored silk is used on wood to let flowers and animals do whatever they want. When weaving a weft yarn with a small shuttle, keep it first, and then thread it on the warp yarn with variegated thread, so that you can write. If there is no contact. It looks like a carved image, so it is called silk carving. If you like a woman's clothes, she will grow old at the end of her life. Although different flowers can be made, the weft cover is not woven by shuttle. This paper describes the technological characteristics of silk reeling. Besides reeling, hooking and weaving, there are also methods of knotting. Similar two-color or three-color reeling is carried out in the order of light color levels, including long and short reeling, core-spun reeling, mother-child warp and wooden comb. Treasures handed down from ancient times include the Peony Map of Kerou Zhu and Camellia Map of Kochi. 3.3. The production of KSTMJ silk patterns is not limited to weaving and hand weaving. Embroidery, which relies more on manual operation, is also one of the ways to present patterns. Embroidery in Song Dynasty can be divided into practicality and appreciation. Due to the advocacy of the ruling class in Song Dynasty, the rise of literati and gentry, and the prosperity of flower-and-bird painting, embroidery works imitated celebrity calligraphy and painting and became the mainstream at that time, and the appreciation of embroidery works became an art. The appreciation of embroidery works not only needs craftsmanship, but also needs artistic accomplishment that can integrate calligraphy and painting. A variety of embroidery techniques appeared in Song Dynasty, such as needle roller, spinning needle, reverse sewing, Ping Jin, sewing thread, net embroidery and door.
Hollow-out pattern printing is to carve patterns on a very thin pattern board, such as a very thin wooden board or a specially treated tung oil bamboo board. This pattern board is placed on the processed blank silk, and the hollowed-out part is coated with sticky color paste, indicating that the pattern is fine. Dyeing techniques were popular in Song Dynasty, which were divided into two types: stranding and clamping. Twisting has developed many new names such as deer fetus, kneading, cocoon and philosophy, while sandwich has developed flower filling, sizing and waxing. The specific operation method of sizing and waxing is to clamp the silk fabric with two identical hollowed-out flower plates, coat the hollowed-out places with slurry or wax to prevent dyeing, and loosen the flower plates for dyeing. 5. Hand-painted silk fabrics are used for hand-painted decoration, including line drawing, color filling and painting. The hand-painted way is simple and easy to control, and the pattern is delicate. Painting clay gold on the fabric is also an important means to increase the gorgeous effect of the fabric by hand painting. References: Zhao Feng, Xu Zhenzhong. Dyeing and weaving of ancient silk and splendid costumes, Cultural Relics Publishing House, 2008:35 Miao. Loulan Plough and Silk Production in Song Dynasty, Journal of Suzhou Institute of Silk Technology, 1982. 20 12 summary. History of Silk Patterns in China, Heilongjiang Fine Arts Publishing House, 1990: 123 Yuan Xuanping, Zhao Feng. History of Silk Culture in China, Shandong Fine Arts Publishing House, 2009: 142 Note: Zhao Feng, Xuzhng. Dyeing and Weaving of Ancient Silk in splendid china Clothing, Journal of Suzhou Institute of Silk Technology, 1982, China Ancient Jacquard Loom and Its Technical Analysis, Overview of Modern Silk Technology, 20 12. History of Silk Patterns in China