To put it simply, it is obviously safer to identify these famous leather factories than to brag about how good the texture is and how high the cost is in the copy, but to be vague about what leather to use.
Attachment: In order to avoid the copyright problem of pictures, I try to use my own pictures for all the skin with real objects ~ Besides, it is not particularly comprehensive, and there are several French and German (Annonai, Haas, Weinheimer, etc. ) Not written down.
The full text is 5200 words and 66 pictures, and the reading time is expected to be 8 minutes.
This century-old leather factory is so famous that almost all friends in into the pit know it. Horween doesn't need many customers. Basically, all the leather shoes brands that can be named have used their skins (of course, there are also some brands that can't be named in China): Wesco, White's, Viberg, Alden, Wolverine, Chippewa, Clinch…… .................................................................................................
The product line is very wide, including the familiar CXL, horse buttocks and Latigo, with more than 50 kinds of leather. . .
It's impossible to introduce them all, and I don't know that much. I can only say a few familiar ones:
The skin often seen on tooling is characterized by rich oil, bright appearance and strong self-repair and renaturation after wearing for a long time. This is a retanning full-grain leather, which is chrome tanned first and then vegetable tanned. According to Horween, it takes a total of 28 working days to complete tanning. Generally speaking, chrome tanned leather is soft and durable; Vegetable tanned skin is hard, which will produce beautiful patina effect. CXL combines the advantages of chrome tanning and vegetable tanning.
CXL Burgundy cowhide is purchased from loyal Stricklin =
Because it is too common, CXL is very controversial. Some people say it's flattering, some people say it's melodramatic, some people say it's easy to loosen, and some people even say it's a second shave. . . Most of them are profit-seeking behaviors of merchants: I think CXL is too ordinary, boasting about transparent prices and high prices, so stepping on CXL to brag about skins that everyone doesn't understand has high profits.
CXL Burgundy cowhide is purchased from loyal Stricklin =
I can only say that, according to official website, Holven has said that CXL is full grain, and it is a kind of quite mature leather that has been tanned with secret recipe for over 100 years, and its reputation is there, otherwise, they wouldn't have been using it all the time.
CXL black cowhide from John Lofgren.
Personally, CXL is a kind of leather with good comprehensive properties, which is very suitable for the aging effect of tooling. In addition to the "disadvantage" that it will be elongated after long-term use because of its high ductility, the comprehensive performance is better than those of the less well-known high-priced leather. Because CXL is used by everyone, the shipment is very large, so there is always a survivor bias, which also leads to the argument that domestic CXL is not as good as foreign CXL, which makes people speechless. . . For details, please refer to the previous loose leather article. There are many influencing factors, which cannot be simply attributed to the fact that China is inferior to foreign countries.
Self-purchased CXL whisky cowhide ultra-high density Shonest =
There are cowhide full of CXL horsehide, which is divided into horse front and strip. Aero likes to make leather clothes with CXL horse front skin. Because the strip leather is close to the horse's ass, generally speaking, it has high density and few growth lines, so it is used as shoes and has a good texture.
Buy your own Shonest CXL black horse skin =
H horse hip is known as the diamond in leather and has a high status. Because scarcity is precious, many people will have faith in it. Even if I haven't bought it, I like to talk about my erudition and even blow it to the sky. In fact, to put it bluntly, this is a kind of bright, high-density and special wrinkled skin, as well as complicated processing and long tanning time. Besides, there's nothing to brag about. In addition, horse hips are afraid of water, so it is best not to wear them when it rains.
Buy Horween cigar-colored ponytail.
Then, I personally think that H-horse buttocks and other horse buttocks (Japanese New Year's Eve, Nana Ogawa, Miyagi, Crayton, Italy, etc. ) are two different things. If you can buy shoes, buy H horse's ass.
Like CXL, it is also a compound tanned full-grain leather, but personally, Latigo oil is not as rich as CXL and will be a little harder than CXL. In addition, different colors of Latigo have different leather characteristics, so it is not easy to generalize. For example, Latigo in Moc color looks like the primary color of leather, which is quite dense and hard at the same time.
Natural Latigo looks lighter than the original leather, but it presents a soft texture.
Self-purchased true color Latigo aging comparison chart =
This is an interesting kind of leather. It is made of leather. After various treatments, it was coated with a layer of wax. Because the attachment of wax is not very firm, a little rubbing will reveal the background color of the skin, forming a strong old flavor effect, mottled and rough. This is a kind of skin that makes people love and hate clearly. People who like it will like it very much, and people who hate it will think it is too rough. .
As far as I know from reddit, CXL doesn't do the last two steps of dyeing and polishing, and then uses the meat surface of leather to wax it to make wax meat, so it is also a durable retanning full-grain leather.
Before we talk about Dublin, we can briefly talk about Essex, which is a kind of vegetable tanned leather. According to Horween, it uses the same tanning method as horse butt, but the raw material is cowhide. Ordinary Essex is the primary color, while Dublin is the waxed and oiled version of Essex. Judging from the Dublin I bought, the general leather style is primitive and rough, and the production line is common.
Buy Dublin English Tan↑ =
American leather factory, which was established earlier than Horween, has a history of 150 years, and mainly manufactures all kinds of primitive and rough vegetable tanned leather. The popularity of WC in China is very low, and it has no presence compared with some Italian leather goods factories, let alone Horween. I tried to search in TB, and found that Haijue made a 6mm heavy-duty leather belt from the tanned leather of this plant. It looks old-fashioned.
Coincidentally, Wickett &; Craig also has a kind of leather called Latigo, which is very dense and heavy. Clinch has a high status in Japan, and he used this Latigo for hand painting:
I feel that except Horween, other leather factories in the United States are well-known, mainly producing vegetable tanned leather, but they all have a long history, such as Wickett &; I'm Craig and Herman oak.
Herman Oak 188 1 was established. official website products mainly include harness reins, leather shoes midsole, belt strips, Herman Oak and Latigo. I only knew that Horween had Latigo before, but after some searching, I knew that everyone had Latigo. . . However, the Latigo of Herman Oak is 100% vegetable tanning, which is different from Horween's compound tanning.
I bought Herman's oak midsole shoes myself:
Matching of Herman Oak vegetable tanning belt;
The abbreviation of the name of this American leather factory is easy to remember and can be used to call names. Because it was bought by Red Wings' father, S.B. has bigger feet.
Self-purchased 875 =
Oro Legacy leather goods of 875, FeatherStone leather goods of Beckman, and leather goods with well-known names are all produced by S.B Foot.
Buy 90 16 Beckman =
When it comes to iLcea, not many people may know it, but when it comes to Museum Calf, more people may know it. ILcea is a leather factory that produces Museum Calf Museum calfskin. It was founded in A.D. 1930, but later went bankrupt due to the death of its founder. In 20/0/4, Kloc was acquired by another Italian leather company Gruppo Vecchia Toscana.
An extraordinary calf leather is famous for its different shades of leather and mottled marbles. At first, it was dedicated to johhlob, and later it was gradually used by everyone. Moreover, in official website, iLcea changed the name of Museum Calf to Radica and put it under the category of Box calf.
Buy reddish-brown museum calf leather =
Buy dark brown museum calf =
Bought iron ash hall calf leather, and turned brown after processing.
This should be regarded as a big category of leather. Several leather factories have leather with this name. I only bought the Box calf of iLcea, and I feel that it is high-quality chrome tanned calf with high density, good gloss and delicate folds.
Buy dark brown boxcalf =
In addition, I bought Ilcha's box of chrome-tanned horse skin and used it to make leather clothes. The surface characteristics of leather are similar to Box calf, but because it is horse skin, it feels hard when bending and its density is exaggerated, so there are not many wrinkles. . . However, because it is chrome tanned, it can still be considered as soft as a whole.
Buy sunset yellow box horse skin =
In addition, I happened to see that the official account number of iLcea, 20 14, announced the suspension of horse skin production on the Style forum. Looks like I might appreciate this later. . .
This factory, friends who play with handmade leather goods may have heard of it, and they often see the Mirvena box produced by them. Founded more than 40 years ago, Bada Lacicello is a member of Italian Vegetable Tanning Association.
In addition, the most expensive tooling boots in the industry, Whitecloud, also use their skins to make shoes:
Cossack leather of British imitation leather brand Bill Kelso is made of vegetable tanned cowhide:
I saw astaire &; Kern uses their skins to make players' holsters:
The famous Guidi has its own leather factory, which was established in 1896. In the early days, I just did what leather goods factories should do, and making shoes was a very backward business.
Guidi Leather Factory has many customers over the years, and most of them are pioneer brands, such as Carpe Diem, Carol Christian Poell, Rick Owens, Layer-0 and Avatar.
Guidi is most famous for tanning old horse skins with plants. This kind of leather has a good texture.
Buy your own Guidi horse skin =
For short, CFS, a British leather factory founded in 1904, is one year earlier than Horween, but it is not so famous. CFS also has a rich product line, among which suede leather is very good. It is a supplier of Alden, Viberg, Visvim and some first-line shoe factories in the UK.
Suede calf leather with very fine fluff. CFS is made of calf leather with exclusive tanning formula. Soft suede on the back and full-grain aniline treatment on the front. According to the introduction of CFS official website-"This is our best suede".
Some high-priced footwear brands will use this leather, such as Paul Scaffaro, San crispin, Antonio Meccariello and so on.
African wild antelope skin, CFS uses the same tanning method as Janus Calf to treat this skin. This tanning method can retain the natural features of the skin surface to the maximum extent, and add enough wax on this basis. The final product has the characteristics of natural grain surface, retains the scar of the original skin, and has both high strength and high softness.
Leather details taken by Fu Lunda 65APO =
According to my own wearing experience, this kind of leather is soft and tough, resistant to operation and comfortable to wear. I felt a little dry at first, but after wearing it for two years and taking care of it several times, it will become very bright after gradually absorbing oil wax, which is a very interesting skin.
Buy waxed kudu, brand new.
Self-purchased waxing kudu, 2-year aging effect =
Johnson & Johnson company F j baker, 1862 was founded because the founder bought a leather factory, which is the last leather factory in Britain that still uses oak trees to tan leather. Many friends who buy belts will talk about JF reins, which are produced by this factory. Their vegetable tanning process is extremely long. It is mentioned above that H horse's ass needs to be tanned for 6 months, while JF needs to be tanned for 12 months. No wonder their belt strips have to be sold at a high price of two or three hundred and one.
JF reins are characterized by retaining the original style of leather, and the pores of full-grain leather are clearly visible. Unlike JE, the surface layer is treated and looks very bright. But each has its own advantages. Some people can't accept that the original leather prefers to look bright, but as far as leather is concerned, JF is definitely better.
Self-purchased JF reins
In addition to JF, there are J &；; E Sedgwick, Clayton, TWS, I feel that the product lines overlap, and they are all kinds of reins and high-grade leather midsole, so I won't say much.
Buy JE reins =
It is the Japanese New Year that is often mentioned. It was established earlier, from 195 1 to almost 70 years now. Many Japanese brands, such as Flywheel, The Real Mccoy's and Buco, which focus on making horse skins and horse hips, use New Year's horse skins. At the same time, Himel Bros and Good wear in America also like to use it. The founder of Himel Bros even said that New Year's horse skin is the best leather in the world (I have great doubts about this. . . Don't you care about Tochigi, CXL, California Bear and Guidi Horse Skin? )
FW mulholland road using new year horse skin:
I think it's ok to make bags and small objects with horse's ass. I have a dark green horse butt wallet myself, but I'd better not use it as a shoe. Lock h's ass.
Buy the new Jubilee horse hip wallet =
In addition to new year's goods, there are many small leather goods factories in Japan, such as the leather goods factory gathered in Tochigi Prefecture, but some of them are so small that official website didn't even introduce them. This is somewhat similar to Tuscany, Italy, where there are a bunch of small leather goods factories, but because they are too small, many people just call them Tuscan leather goods. . .
After writing so much, some friends may ask, what leather do you recommend is the best? I want to say that there is no good answer to this question. Different skin, different characteristics, different prices and different ways of playing. I think only what you like is the right skin. In addition, what I wrote in the article is basically good skin.
Some skin is thick and hard, some skin is shiny, some skin is comfortable, and some skin is old and patina is obvious. Know what you want according to your own preferences, and then make a choice.
Don't tell me you don't even know what you want. If so, I can only say: don't buy the province 100%.