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When was brocade really popular?
Jin brocade reached its peak in the Yuan Dynasty. Brocade, called "stone throwing" in Yuan Dynasty, is a kind of silk fabric with golden color. Generally, a gold thread or a round gold thread is used as the weft to weave flowers. The bronzing of ancient Chinese silk fabrics began in the Warring States Period and developed further after the Han Dynasty. By the Tang and Song Dynasties, the gold weaving technology was mature. But it really became popular after Jurchen ruled northern China. The preference of northern minorities for brocade reached its climax in the Yuan Dynasty. The Travel Notes of Polo describes the luxury of the Yuan Dynasty rulers who used woven gold fabrics as military camps, stretching for miles.

Yunjin in Ming Dynasty