1. T-shirts popular since Sui and Tang Dynasties (worn by Emperor Taizong and Li Shimin) continued to the Tang Dynasty, the Five Dynasties, the Song Dynasty, the Yuan Dynasty and the Ming Dynasty, and influenced Japan, Korea and other countries. Common portraits of Song Taizu and Ming Taizu all wear this type of clothing. So far, the clothes worn by the Japanese emperor on some occasions are all variants of this Hanfu. Note that this T-shirt also has a right collar and is fastened with a small round button near the right shoulder.
Early women's clothes were similar to men's clothes, and they were also worn deep. Later it was mainly skirts.
2. Handed down from ancient times (represented by Qin and Han Dynasties), the style of big breasts, right breasts, cross-dressing, wide robes and big sleeves and take off your coat continued the Shang and Zhou Dynasties (Spring and Autumn and Warring States Period), Qin, Han, Three Kingdoms, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Sui and Tang Dynasties, Five Dynasties, Song, Yuan and Ming Dynasties, and influenced Japan. This is the most common style of Japanese kimono.
The costumes of the Han Dynasty are different in some places, but the main parts are the same. The deep clothes in the Western Han Dynasty are the same as those in the Ming Dynasty, but they are different in details.
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, clothing generally followed the service system of Shang Dynasty, but changed slightly. The style of clothes is slightly looser than that of Shang Dynasty. The sleeves are two sizes, and the collar is generally rectangular without buttons. Usually tied to the waist, and some still hang jade ornaments. There were mainly two kinds of belts at that time: one was made of silk fabric, which was called "big belt" or "gentry belt"; Another kind of belt is made of leather, which is called "belt". At this time, a deep coat with exquisite curves appeared. Compared with other clothes, there is an obvious difference between top and bottom, which is called "continuous hem" "Sewing" means skirt, "continuation" means lengthening skirt, and "hemming" means describing skirt style. Changed the previous cutting method that clothes were mostly spread at the bottom. The front and rear pieces of the left skirt are stitched, and the rear skirt is lengthened. The lengthened skirt forms a triangle, which is worn around the back and then tied with a belt.
Qin is still black, so the standard color of Qin clothing is black. But the style is still broad-chested and right-handed Basically follow the Warring States period.
Men's clothing styles in Han Dynasty can be roughly divided into Qu Luan and Zhi Luan. Qu Luan, a kind of deep clothing popular in the Warring States period, was still used in the Han Dynasty, but it was more common in the early Western Han Dynasty. By the Eastern Han Dynasty, it was rare for men to wear deep clothes, usually straight clothes, but they could not be used as formal clothes. During the Qin and Han dynasties, clothes with deep curves were not only worn by men, but also the most common clothing style in women's wear. This kind of clothes is tight and narrow, long enough to mop the floor. The hem is generally trumpet-shaped and does not show its feet. Sleeves are wide and narrow, and cuffs are mostly wrapped. The collar part is very distinctive, usually a cross collar, and the neckline is very low to expose underwear. Wear a few clothes, and the collar of each layer will be exposed, up to more than three layers, which is called "triple clothes". In addition, the tight-fitting clothes with narrow sleeves in Han Dynasty. After many twists and turns, the clothes were wrapped around the hips and tied with ribbons. There are also exquisite and gorgeous patterns painted on the clothes.
Both men and women can wear it in Han Dynasty. This kind of dress appeared as early as the Western Han Dynasty, but it can't be used as a formal dress, because the ancient trousers had no crotch, only two trouser legs were put on the knees and tied around the waist with a belt. If you don't put on a coat, these crotch-less pants will be exposed, which was considered disrespectful at that time, so you should wear a crooked deep coat outside. Later, with the improvement of clothing, the form of pants also improved, and crotch pants (called "crotch") appeared. As a result of the improvement of underwear, it is redundant to wrap the deep clothes around the front, so after the Eastern Han Dynasty, straight lines gradually became popular, replacing the deep clothes.
During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, men's clothing had the characteristics of the times, generally wearing long-sleeved shirts. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life and became a fashion.
Women's dresses in Wei and Jin dynasties inherited the customs of Qin and Han dynasties and improved them on the basis of tradition. Generally speaking, they wear shirts, jackets and flannel, with skirts below. Most styles are frugal on the top and rich on the bottom, with tight clothes, big cuffs, pleated skirts and long and loose hems, achieving a handsome and chic effect.
Hu clothes with narrow sleeves and tight lapels were popular in Sui and Tang Dynasties.
In the Tang Dynasty, in addition to wearing round neck and narrow sleeve robes, officials still wore dresses on some important occasions, such as sacrificial ceremonies. Most of the styles of dresses inherited the old system of Sui Dynasty, such as wearing a belt or cage crown, a double-breasted sleeve shirt, a skirt and a Yu Pei ribbon. Tang costume is the main dress of women in Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. The skirts in the middle Tang Dynasty are wider than those in the early Tang Dynasty, and the others have not changed much.
The costumes of the Five Dynasties basically followed the costumes of the Tang Dynasty.
Han men's wear in Song Dynasty followed two traditional styles: wide chest, right collar and round neck. In the Song Dynasty, there were two basic styles of Han women's clothing: wide row and right row, and double row. Compared with men's wear, there are more kinds of women's wear. The difference between the crown of the Han Dynasty and the ancient system is that in ancient times, men directly put the crown on the bun. In the Qin and Western Han Dynasties, a ribbon wick was added under the crown to connect with the crown tassel and tied under the mandible. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, the head was first wrapped with a silk scarf, and then crowned. This is the only way for people with high status in the Qin Dynasty to dress like this. Towels were originally a symbol of young men's masculinity in ancient times. When a man reaches the age of 20, he is crowned as a taxi driver with status, but Shu Ren is wrapped in a towel without status. Workers wear hats. Towel means "gold". During the Warring States period, Koreans wrapped their heads in green towels, so they called them Cangtou. Qin wrapped his head in a black turban and called it Guizhou Head. At the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, both Yuan Shao and Kong Rong wrapped their heads in towels. Ge was raised by the Qin State during the Warring States Period, and was given to military commanders with crimson silk (red bowl head). Some warrior figures unearthed from Qin terracotta warriors' pits in Xianyang, Shaanxi Province wore red bowls. In the Han Dynasty, a hat ring named "Yanti" was added to the forehead, which was connected with the triangular ear at the back of the head. The crown ears of civil servants are long, but those of military officers are short. Towels covered the roof and turned the originally empty roof into a "house". Later, the zigzag part of the roof was called "Jaeger", and the crown across Jaeger was called the exhibition tube. In front of the exhibition tube, a beam representing the grade position was installed. Flat-topped ones are called "Shang Pingge", and people with aristocratic status can be crowned on Ge. Jinxian crown with long ears, Huiwen crown with short ears and flat middle. There are even those without ears. The silk hanging on the ears on both sides of the bag is called "Shou". Cai Yong said in "Random thoughts" that "clothes" were used by humble deacons who could not wear crowns in ancient times. Emperor Xiaowu went to Princess Guantao's house and saw Dong Yan wearing a sleeveless blue shirt and a green dress, which was given to him. The Han and Yuan emperors had a fierce forehead, so they covered it with escape, and the ministers followed suit without a towel. Wang Mang had no hair, so he added a towel house to cover his head. There is a saying that "Wang Mang is bald and has a shed". In the Han dynasty, underage girls were vacant posts, that is, those who had no children and no houses. Civil servants are below the rank of Jinxian, and military attaché s are below the rank of military attaché. In the late Eastern Han Dynasty, there appeared a pattern of low before and high after, low topic in Ji Yan and high ears, which was called flat towel.
Han dynasty crown is one of the basic symbols to distinguish rank status. There are more than 0/6 kinds of crowns/kloc-6, but not crowns, but enemy crowns and Fan Kuai crowns. The forms of these crowns are as follows.
Coronation is a sacrificial costume for emperors, princes and doctors. The crown is one foot two inches long (27.96 cm in Chinese, one foot 0.233 m) and seven inches wide (16.3 1 cm). The crown is painted black outside and red and green inside. The emperor was crowned twelve times, Bai Yuzhu, three princes and seven princes, blue Yuzhu, five doctors and black Yuzhu. Each group has a tassel with a color choice, and dragonflies are hung next to it. Wear a crown suit when wearing a crown, with knee pads and ribbons according to the grade. Made of woven materials, supervised by Chen Liuxiang's service staff.
The long crown worn by Liu Bang, the ancestor of the Han Dynasty, was made of bamboo skin, so it was called Liu Guan. Later, it was designated as a sacrificial costume for officials above the level of public transport, also known as Zhai Guan, which was similar to the magpie tail crown worn by folk figures in the Western Han Tomb at Mawangdui No.1 in Changsha. Wearing black crimson leader's clothes and crimson pantyhose.
This crown is 7 inches long and 4 inches high. It is shaped like a double cup, made of soapy silk, which matches the plain dress in Duan Xuan. Biyong saluted and served officials, princes and doctors. The skins made by deacons wearing white deerskin have the same shape, which is the pursuit of the summer solstice, Yin Zhi's Zhang Fu and Zhou Zhi's appearance and development.
Juege, eight inches wide and one foot six inches long, is made of the color of a bird's head. It goes well with Duan Xuan's plain skirt. Worship the five suburbs of heaven and earth, served by musicians and dancers in Qiao Yun, Tang Ming. Jueju is also the development of Jueju in the Zhou Dynasty.
Tian Tongguan, nine inches high, is upright with little evil, with iron coils straight down, mountains in front of the beam, and the exhibition tube is described. When the official month is celebrated, the emperor wears it The description of the mountain is to add a hillside-shaped gold plate on the surface, which is decorated with embossed cicada patterns.
The far crown is made like a crown extending into the sky, with a display tube across the front and no mountains. There are five kinds of uniforms worn by kings, namely Chun Lv, Xiazhu, Xiahuang, Qiubai and Winter Black. In the Western Han Dynasty, it was a four-season suit, and Chun Lv had summer red autumn and yellow winter soap.
The mountain crown, also known as the edge-note crown, stands upright without mountain description and is served by Chinese and foreign officials and servants. Originally the crown of Qi, the Qin Dynasty destroyed Qi, so it was given to a near minister.
Jin Xian's crown is seven inches high before, three inches high after and eight inches long. There are three beams (the beam is the vertical ridge on the crown), two beams are below 2000 stones for the doctor, and one beam is below the doctor. It is the crown of literati.
The law crown, also known as the Xie Pian (Zhi Sound Quality) crown, is the corner of the tablet and can be straight, so it is worn by law enforcers because of its shape crown. The king of Chu once got this beast and made this crown. After Qin destroyed Chu, it was given to the law enforcement officer and used by Han as an imperial envoy.
Military attaché s, also known as the Grand Crown of Martial Arts, are worn by officers. The attendants are often decorated with cicada patterns and mink tails on the back, which is called Zhao Hui Wenguan. The Qin dynasty gave it to the near ministers, and the gold was strong, and it was not consumed in a hundred trials. Cicada is high and clear, and its mouth is under the cover. The sable is fierce inside and soft outside, and the Chinese sable is red and black.
In the history of the Han Dynasty, the military attache, the imperial husband, wore a crown for the guards outside the military attache and added a double tail to the crown. "People who fight bravely are also brave. His battle is aimed at one person, and death is the only stop." Stork is a small black bird of prey. The hats of Scots and the crests of Koguryo in North Asia are shaped like feathers.
Jianhua Crown, with iron as the column roller, wears nine big copper beads, which are shaped like deer, with the lower wheel being big and the upper wheel being small, like silk ribbon in Han Dynasty. Also known as the snipe crown, it may be decorated with snipe feathers. Worship of the Five Suburbs of Heaven and Earth worn by Lele dancers in Tang Ming.
Fangshan crown, also known as Qiao's crown, is similar to Jinxian crown and Gaoshan crown. It is made of colorful pots, which are not often used, but are used in suburban people and halogen books (etiquette). Almost worn by royal dancers.
The warlock's crown, made in the Han Dynasty and made in the Wu Dynasty, is four times different, which is consistent with the "Three Rites". It was worn by Si Tianguan, but it was no longer used in the Eastern Han Dynasty.
But it is not a crown, and it is systematically promoted to a long crown, commonly known as a magpie tail crown. Palace gatekeepers and servants were crowned.
But the enemy crown is one inch high in front, four inches long in the back and three inches high in the back. Made into a saint's crown and worn by guards.
Fan Kuai crown, nine inches wide and seven inches high, four inches in front and four inches in back, looks like a crown. The doorman of Sima Dian wears it. Fan Kuai heard that Xiang Yu wanted to kill Liu Bang, so he tore off his clothes and wrapped his shield around his head. He broke into the military gate and stood beside Liu Bang to protect Liu Bang. Later, he created this crown and gave it to the guards at the temple gate.