Tea brewing essence is the most prominent feature of congou tea, which is reflected in every link of the cooking process, not just "more exquisite utensils".

1. Curer: the mud stove caught fire, the sand shovel scooped up water, fanned the stove, wiped the stove, waited for the fire, and drenched the cup.

2. Serve tea: When the casserole makes a pine sound and fish eyes appear at the beginning of boiling (to show the meaning, don't cover it), lift the casserole and spray the pot and cup with heat. Then put the sand shovel on the stove, open the tin can when it is hot, pour the tea leaves on ordinary paper, measure the thickness, take the thickest one and fill it in the dripping hole at the bottom of the can, then fill it in the middle layer with fine powder and sprinkle the slightly thicker leaves on it. Such an effort is called "taking tea". Don't be too full of tea, about 70% to 80% is enough. The change of God is preliminary.

3, to be soup: the soup is divided into three boiling points. One cooking is too naive, and the third cooking is too old; Boiling twice is the best. "If the beads float in the water and the sound is scattered, it will be boiling, just at that time."

4, tea washing: boiling soup around the pot mouth, while entering the pot, do not go straight into the pot heart, can not be interrupted, but can not be forced to advance. It is advisable to increase pouring, which is called "high impact", so that there will be no stagnation. After the first injection of boiling water, the tea soup should be immediately poured out to remove the impurities contained in the tea, which is called "tea washing". Throw away the tea soup and don't drink it.

5. Punching point: The punching method is the same as above.

6, scraping foam: washing will make it full and avoid overflow; When it is full, the tea foam will float up and be white, protruding from the surface of the pot. The lid of the pot is scraped flat from the spout, and the foam is dispersed and then covered.

7. Pour the pot: After the pot cover is fixed, pour it on the pot with hot soup, commonly known as "hot pot". One is to remove the scattered foam; Second, chasing heat outside the pot, filling incense inside the pot.

8, hot cup: after pouring the can, you still have to pour the cup, commonly known as "burning the clock." The soup poured into the cup should be poured directly into the center of the cup. "Burning a bell (commonly known as a cup) can only make incense": this is a "time" that cannot be ignored. Wash the cup after pouring it, and then pour it out.

9. Sprinkle tea: After the tea leaves are put into the pot, pour the pot, iron the cup and pour the water. After a few passes, it's time to sprinkle tea. Because it's neither too early nor too late to sprinkle tea. If it is fast, it will not soak and the fragrance will not come out; If it's late, the fragrance will come out of generate. If the tea color is too strong, it will make the tea taste bitter, and the previous work will be in vain. Sprinkle every cup evenly, which is called "Guan Gong touring the city"; Will also be exhausted, called "Han Xin points soldiers"; Only when the pot is lowered can the tea be sprinkled, so as to prevent the tea fragrance from floating and foaming, which is called "low sprinkling".

Taste tea and evaluate its taste and quality.

Drink tea, take a small cup, drink it slowly and carefully, then move the mouth of the cup closer to your nostrils and taste its fragrance. Because the cup of congou tea is small, fragrant and hot, there is still fragrance in the cup after sipping, which is a deeper and stronger "mountain rhyme" than the overflowing aroma of tea soup, so "smelling the cup" is unique to congou tea.

The orderly way of drinking tea based on "quality" has formed a set of systematic logical procedures, which is called "Kung Fu Tea Method". It shows elegance, expresses etiquette, reposes friendship, embodies quality and expresses itself. Beauty is produced in the delicate, meticulous, orderly, leisurely and harmonious atmosphere of congou tea, and it is also the emotion produced by the satisfaction of the aesthetic needs of the host and guest. The whole process can reflect the noble sentiment of "harmony is precious" and reflect the certain historical tradition, cultural level and background of the times in this area. It plays a good role in improving people's physical quality and psychological quality. This is the beauty of the program of Kung Fu tea and its aesthetic value.

—— Tea drinking is inseparable from tea sets, which refer to special utensils for soaking tea leaves, including pots, bowls, cups, plates and trays. Another important manifestation of the ancients' attention to tea drinking is that they attach great importance to the art of tea sets. An exquisite tea set with three kinds of famous teas with different colors, smells and tastes can complement each other. With the prosperity of tea drinking and the evolution of tea drinking customs in various times, there are more and more varieties of tea sets and more exquisite textures. Chaoshan kungfu tea needs at least ten kinds of tea sets, namely:

First: teapot

-Chaozhou dialect is called "Chong Gang", and some are called "Su Gang", because it comes from Yixing, Jiangsu, and is the smallest type of Yixing teapot. Choose the formula of teapot with four words, saying "small, shallow, neat and old." Zisha pots are divided into two-person pots, three-person pots, four-person pots and four-person pots, among which Chen Meng, Tiehuaxuan, Qiupu, Calyx Garden, Xiaoshan and Yuan Xisheng are the most precious. There are many styles of pots, ranging from oranges to oranges, to melons, persimmons, diamonds, drums, clubs and so on. Generally, there are many drums, so it is correct and vigorous. There are many colors of pots, such as cinnabar, antique chestnut, purple mud, stone yellow, azure and so on. However, regardless of the style and color, the most important thing is that the pot should be small, not big, shallow and not deep. Because there is no time when you are old.

Second: tea cups

There are four words in the choice of teacups: small, shallow, thin and white. Small is a small mouth; Shallow water never leaves the bottom; White as jade is used to set off the color of tea; As thin as paper, it can be fragrant. Most tea drinkers in Chaozhou have a wide mouth with blue flowers on a white background, and the book "If you are a treasure" at the bottom of the cup is precious, but it is not easy to get. Small white porcelain cups produced in Jingdezhen, Jiangxi and Fengxi, Chaozhou are also very good, commonly known as "Ginkgo Cup".

Third: Wash tea.

-It's shaped like a big bowl with many tones and colors. There must be three kinds of kungfu tea, one is for soaking cups, the other is for soaking cans, and the other is for washing cups and soaking tea.

Fourth: tea tray

Tea trays are used to hold tea cups, and there are also various styles, such as full moon shape, chessboard shape and so on. But no matter what style, the most important thing is the four-character formula: wide, flat, shallow and white. That is, the disk should be wide, so that more cups can be put according to the number of guests; The bottom of the plate should be flat to prevent the cup from being unstable and easy to shake; The edges should be light and the color should be white, all to set off the teacups and teapots and make them beautiful.

Fifth: tea mats

-It's smaller than a tea tray, used to make pots, and there are also various styles, but in short, we should pay attention to "shallow summer and deep winter". The depth of winter is to put more boiling water in the pot for convenience, so that the tea will not get cold easily. Put a layer of mat in the tea mat. "Tea mat" is fried with loofah according to the shape of the tea mat. So those who use loofah instead of cloth mats, in order not to produce odor, the mats are used to protect the teapot. After the tea leaves are spilled, turn the teapot upside down to avoid water accumulation in the pot. A little water will also make tea taste.

Sixth: water bottles and bowls

-function, is used to store water when making tea. Water bottle, neck and shoulder hanging, flat bottom, handle, plain porcelain blue and white is the best. There is also a kind with a neck and a mouth, decorated with dragons, which is not bad. Water bowls are also used to store water for making tea. They are all as big as an ordinary flowerpot and have many styles. The "red gold color" made in the Ming Dynasty, with metal glaze, depicts the two tails of goldfish at the bottom of the bowl. When scooping water, the water moves like a goldfish, which is a rare treasure.

Seventh: Dragon Tank

-the big dragon tank is similar to the lotus tank planted in the court, or smaller. Used to store a large number of springs, covered and supported with wood, placed in the corner of the study, antique. Dragons are also plain porcelain blue and white, which were made in Xuande period of Ming Dynasty, but they are hard to see.

Eighth: There is a hint of red in the quiet stove.

-there is a pinch of red in the static stove, which has been made in Chaoan, Chaoyang and Jieyang, and the styles are very beautiful. There are also various forms, which are characterized by being long, six or seven inches high, and the charcoal-added furnace core is deep and small, which makes the temperature uniform and saves charcoal. The small stove has a cover and a door, so it is economical and convenient to cover it when not in use. There is often an elegant couplet near the small oven door, which adds tea fragrance.

Ninth: sand

-"Sand", the most famous one made by Fengxi in Chaoan, commonly known as "teapot", is made of sand and mud. It's light. After the water is boiled, the small lid will automatically tilt and make a burst of noise. The water at this time is just right for making tea. As for the steel pot, the aluminum pot is used to boil water and make tea, although it is not necessary. But the metal things used to boil water and make tea are inferior after all, so it is not the time.

Tenth: feather fans and steel chopsticks

-Feather fans are used to fan the fire. When fanning the fire, use force, but don't fan the oven door to keep a certain temperature and show respect for the guests. Therefore, the special feather fan is not only conducive to the display of "Kung Fu", but also the fan made of white goose feather has a big palm and elegant bamboo handle, which sets off tea sets in red, green and white and strong tea in gold and purple, which is naturally interesting. Steel chopsticks are not only for catching charcoal and provoking fire, but also for keeping the owner's hands clean.

—— The tea used in Kung Fu tea is limited to Fujian Rock Tea, Chaoshan Creek Tea and Phoenix Narcissus (all green tea). Other domestic teas, such as black tea, green tea, brick tea, scented tea and white tea, are not suitable. Because if you use kungfu tea, it is often bitter and bitter, and only this semi-mellow green tea is the best. Traditionally, it is best to use oolong tea in Fujian, that is, rock tea in Wuyishan in northern Fujian and stream tea in southern Fujian. Oolong tea is a general term, in which summer tea is produced in northern Fujian. Tieguanyin is mainly produced in Anxi, southern Fujian, so it is also called Xicha. There are many kinds of rock tea and stream tea, among which Qizhong, Dan Cong, Mingcong Dahongpao, Narcissus and Yizhichun are all famous teas.

-Chaoshan Phoenix Mountain also produces tea, which is also a semi-mellow green tea and a kungfu tea. Its names are narcissus (commonly known as bird's mouth tea), Dan Cong, seaweed and so on; "Bird's beak" in autumn poems is bird's beak tea. Phoenix tea is also one of the famous teas in China. Tea is a kind of tea deeply loved by Southeast Asian hipsters and overseas Chinese. It has large particles, yellowish brown color, obvious fragrance, strong mellow sweetness and light yellow soup color. "Chaozhou Fuzhi" contains: "Phoenix Mountain famous tea is also called tribute tea." According to folklore, the last emperor of the Southern Song Dynasty fled to Phoenix Mountain in Chaozhou, thirsty for water. He picked tea leaves from the mountain and chewed them to quench his thirst. Therefore, this kind of tea tree in Phoenix Mountain is called Song Tea by later generations. The legend must be true in the end, but Fenghuangshan tea is a kind of high-quality tea, but it has always been recognized. The popularity of Chaoshan Kung Fu is closely related to the famous local tea.

-What is congou? Cai Shuang (whose name is Bolong, whose life story is unknown) in Qing Dynasty has an interesting brief explanation in Notes on the Collection of Mandarin. This book is a dictionary that compares Zhejiang dialect with Putonghua one by one. Its first book (Harmonious Diet) has the following words:

-0 MC Davi Zhengyi Tea

-0 Good tea is a master of tea tasting.

——0 young strip zhengyi bud tea

-At present, words with symbol 0 are dialects, and words with "Zheng" are Mandarin. It turns out that congou tea is a good kind of tea. (Interestingly, the expressions and meanings of these two words are quite consistent with Chaozhou dialect. ) Obviously, congou here refers to good tea.

-more specifically, it is quoted from the words in the "Continued Tea Classics" written by Lu Yancan, the order of Chong 'an in Yongzheng period:

Wuyi tea is the rock tea on the mountain ... The best one is called congou tea.

-Daoguang Liang Zhangju's Notes on Returning to the Field said: "Wuyi tea has four names: floral, ethnic, famous and exotic. Famous tea is rare under the mountain, and it is a kind of congou that Xiamen people in Quanzhou talk about. "Dong Tiangong's" Wuyishan Records "Volume 19 also said:" The first rock tea is not very fine, and it has the name of being planted, scented, fragrant, kung fu and pine nuts. It is cooked with natural flavor, and its color is not red. "

-In the eleventh year of the Republic of China, Tongzhi (Property) in Fujian quoted the Fujian Production Records as saying: Most monks in Wuyi Temple are from Jinjiang, taking tea ping as their profession, and all temples invite Quanzhou people to be tea teachers. After the tea leaves are harvested, some people choose buds, put their fingers into the pot and knead them one by one. If the heat is not refined, the color is deep and the taste is burnt, that is, the tea called by Quan, Zhang, Tai and Peng people is only one or two. Its production method must be made by a tea master, and its daily value will be stronger. ①

It can be seen that from the early Qing Dynasty, congou tea was used to refer to an advanced variety of rock tea, whose name was named by Ren Peng in Zhang Quan.

-There is another kind of black tea called Kung Fu black tea, such as Qimen Kung Fu, Dianhong Kung Fu, Hong Min Kung Fu and Chuanhong Kung Fu. Hunter, an American businessman who was in Guangzhou during the Daoguang period, said in "Guangzhou Fanguilu" that there are many kinds of tea, mainly divided into black tea and green tea ... Black tea includes Wuyi, Kung Fu, race and Bao. In the last book, Kung Fu tea was sometimes written as Kung Fu tea, for example, "Tea is mainly Wuyi tea and Kung Fu tea." As for why black tea is called congou tea, the foreign explanation is: "workers' tea." (2)-Due to the lack of reference materials in the literature, Hunter, who is not good at Chinese, had to "literally translate" the literature. In my opinion, it may be more reasonable to explain according to Cai Shuang's statement that "congou tea is good tea". Since good rock tea is called congou tea, why not good black tea?

-So, why is the best rock tea called congou? A passage quoted from Guo Baicang's Fujian Production Records can be used as a footnote. Just think about it, "just choose buds, put your fingers into the pot and roll them one by one", and the heat is just right. How much effort and skill does it take? As Shi Chaoquan's "Wuyi Tea Song" said in the early Qing Dynasty: "If Mesfrancine is baked, it is probably fragrant. The fire in the tripod is warm, the heart is idle, the hands are sensitive and the work is fine. " This is a ... Secondly, in Liang Zhangju's Notes on Returning to the Field, although the level of congou tea is listed under "exotic species", exotic species such as Xue Mei and papaya are rare in mountainous areas. "36 peak, but a few peaks. Every kind of temple can't be full of a catty, so it should be preserved in miniature tin bottles. When guests and celebrities come to the mountain, they will start to produce a little, and they will solemnly swear. " Therefore, in terms of market circulation, congou tea is really the top "best", and there is no second place. In short, both rock tea and black tea have varieties called congou tea, with rock tea in the front and black tea in the back.

According to "Ci Yuan" 1979 edition, "Kung Fu Tea" is a fashion of local tea tasting in Chaozhou, Guangdong Province, and its cooking method is based on the Tea Classic of Tang Lu Yu. Exquisite utensils ... See Qing Yujiao's Story of Tide and Beauty. Also known as "Kung Fu Tea".

-(Kung Fu Tea) is Kung Fu Tea. In the Qing Dynasty, Shi Hongbao's Notes on Miscellaneous People in Fujian (10): "Zhang Quan belongs to various genera, and the custom is kungfu tea. ..... more importantly, take the Wuyi race ... you must sip it carefully for a long time. "

-congou tea is defined as "a fashion of local tea tasting in Chaozhou, Guangdong", which is very accurate and accords with the current understanding of congou tea. It is also very tolerant and fair to list congou, congou and the literature sources on which it is based. The problem is that the same thing has two names, which will inevitably bring some confusion and trouble in practical application. That is, if an association is established or an academic conference is held, should "Kung Fu Tea" or "Kung Fu Tea" be used as the name of the conference or conference? Moreover, in Mandarin, "Gong" and "Gong" are homonyms, and everything can be said. The pronunciation of "Gong" and "Gong" in Chaozhou dialect is very different, and the meanings of "Kung Fu" and "Kung Fu" are also different. In the hometown of congou, you can't even name it. Isn't this more trouble?

-Modern Chinese Dictionary regards "Kung Fu" and "Kung Fu" as one word, which is defined as: time; Idle time; Time; Skills and accomplishment are four items, but readers should pay attention to: the first three items are mostly "kung fu" and the fourth item is mostly "kung fu". There are differences, but you should combine the two words into one. Whether this treatment is appropriate or not is left here. However, the above explanation can hardly cover the word "time" in Chaozhou. For example, "so-and-so has worked hard" means that the other party treats people very carefully and thoughtfully, so "work" here must not use "kung fu".

As a tea ceremony, congou contains many material and spiritual factors, such as exquisite utensils, exquisite methods, exquisite materials and comprehensive manners. Therefore, it is acceptable to use "Kung Fu" as the name of tea varieties, but it is inevitable to call the tea ceremony part rather than all. More importantly, naming is generally based on the original name. Yu Jiao's "Jia Chao Yue Feng Ji" is the earliest record of congou, and it is reasonable to take it as the naming basis. (The last sentence in the definition of Ciyuan (Kung Fu Tea) is "also called Kung Fu Tea". This "Zuo Ye" actually contains the meaning of affirmation and alias). This book uses "Kung Fu Tea" instead of "Kung Fu Tea" from the title to the content.