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Into the Blossoms: Netherlands (4) - Travels in the Water City

Cao Xueqin said in "A Dream of Red Mansions": "Women are made of water." Water has the properties of being clear and transparent and nourishing all things, while women have a tender and tolerant nature. So is Amsterdam, known as the "Water City", as tender and open-minded as a woman?

In my eyes, the answer is yes. Ever since the Port of Amsterdam became a busy dock at the end of the 14th century, Amsterdam has been inextricably linked with beauty and beauty. Its various charms come not only from the gentle flowing canal water, but also from the red light district full of erotic culture. (Red Light District).

Except for me, all the people traveling with me are married. They teased me. If you watch this at a young age, aren’t you afraid of learning bad things? If I had enough knowledge at that time, I could have made them speechless with one sentence, "Look, the sex industry in Amsterdam has a history of 6 centuries. Did Amsterdam learn bad things?" Not only did they not learn, No matter what, it still maintains its "blooming flowers". When I returned to Amsterdam in the winter, my exploration of it began with the red light district left in my youth memories.

However, walking around Amsterdam in winter is not a pleasant thing. Sunrise starts at 9am and sunset ends at 4am. With such a short day, there is no sunshine yet, and there is only an overcast sky, humid air, and a body temperature that is much lower than the actual temperature. Because the parking fees in hotels in Amsterdam are ridiculously expensive, I booked a hotel in a small town on the edge of Amsterdam. The hotel provides free parking, and there is a large supermarket behind it, where I bought my favorite Turkish yogurt. Seeing things and thinking about "people" reminded me of the wonderful time I spent alone in Türkiye. It takes 10 minutes to take the intercity train from the hotel to Amsterdam's red light district, and the fare is 4.1 euros one way. The early morning train was empty. Wherever I looked, I noticed a woman without a mask. At this time, I didn’t know that this day was the first day of lockdown in the Netherlands.

When we arrived at the red light district by the canal, it happened to be the time when "the sun rises, the sky and the earth are right, and the morning light shines brightly", but the sun has been blocked by thick clouds, which makes the largest red light district in Europe look a bit desolate. The display windows on both sides of the canal that highlight Amsterdam's "Erotic City" are separated by red curtains only at night. People can only rely on imagination to restore the beauty behind the curtain. I walked along the quiet canal from one bank of the red light district to the other, and asked myself, why was the red light district built in the center of Amsterdam, where land is so valuable? Why does civilized Amsterdam allow prostitutes to exist legally? Because of Amsterdam.

The outbreak of the Black Death in the 14th century allowed Amsterdam to attract more and more people. The success of the pickled herring method made Amsterdam richer and richer. The Port of Amsterdam became busier and busier, and the red light district It is located on Amsterdam's oldest pier. When the cargo ships coming in and out of Amsterdam docked in the port of Amsterdam, sailors who had been at sea for weeks or months would disembark and have fun. For men, the best way to have fun is through wine and women, so these two businesses came into being. By the end of the 14th century, brothels were legal in Amsterdam. When the Dutch Republic ushered in its golden age in the 17th century, Amsterdam also became the back garden of adventurers from the Baltic Sea, North Africa, America, Indonesia and Brazil, and the sex industry here also flourished. There were no electric lights at that time, so girls used the dim light from red candles to let their temptations overflow in the night. From then on, the name "Red Light District" began to spread. But the consequence of sexual openness was ubiquitous venereal diseases, which were brought under control only when Napoleon occupied the area. He asked the girls to have regular physical examinations, and those who were not sick were given red cards to go to work, while those who were sick were given white cards to go to the hospital for medical treatment. He also stipulated that they were not allowed to receive customers before they recovered.

It stands to reason that such a "dirty" place should be full of violence and drugs, but the fact is that Amsterdam's red light district is very safe, and the sex crime rate in the Netherlands is far lower than the European average. Underage girls The unwed pregnancy rate is the lowest in Europe. In addition to working openly and honestly with certificates and paying taxes, the pink girls here also have their own associations and unions. The Dutch government even erected a statue of a black prostitute in the center of the red light district, with the inscription: "Sex work to the world." Congratulations! ”

I don’t know if such a move will surprise many people. If it does, then it will surprise many people. It was the first country in Europe to allow legal prostitution, and the first country to allow marijuana smoking and gay marriage. These policies have given the air of the Netherlands a flavor of freedom and tolerance. And this freedom and tolerance began when the Dutch Republic was tolerant of religions, and it has been more than 400 years ago. This freedom and tolerance made Amsterdam become the world's financial center in the 17th century, and its representative work is the Amsterdam Stock Exchange.

The Amsterdam Stock Exchange does not have as long a history as the Red Light District, but it is a symbol of Amsterdam’s standing on top of the world. The world's first stock exchange, through financing from society, allowed the Dutch East India Company, the first listed company, to gather the dispersed wealth of the whole society, and with the support of the state, turn this wealth into capital for its own external expansion. The reason why the Dutch East India Company was able to raise huge funds was not only because of the government's shareholding, but also because of the credit that the Dutch people exchanged with their lives. There was once a Dutch merchant ship that was blown to an island by strong winds in winter. Without food and clothing, the Dutch merchants would rather starve to death than use their customers' food and medicine. Until spring came, there were only a few people left on the merchant ship. Returned to Amsterdam. Such good credit made the Dutch the creators of the modern commodity system. They organically unified credit, banks, limited liability companies and stock exchanges into an interconnected financial and commercial system.

However, after Amsterdam surrendered the financial center to London, and after Napoleon of France occupied the Dutch Republic, Amsterdam became "gaunt" together with the Dutch Republic. But when Napoleon suffered a historic defeat in Russia, not only did Russia's international status improve unprecedentedly, but the Netherlands also experienced good luck. What happened? Because the Netherlands and Russia have a long history of being "good brothers".

Starting from the 11th century AD, the Frisians, who were bombarded by the ancient Romans to the northern Netherlands, began to trade with the Russians, as evidenced by the Frisian coins found on the coast of the Caspian Sea. Before and after the establishment of the Dutch Republic, the Dutch business group opened up sea routes from Western Europe to Russia, and trade with Russia became closer. One year before the establishment of the Dutch East India Company, Dutch merchants drew a map of Russia's cities and coasts, systematically introducing Russia to the Western European world for the first time. The Netherlands, which was in its golden age at this time, was the "big brother" behind Russia. . When Polish and Swedish armies attacked Russia, the Netherlands stood up for Russia, eventually brokering a settlement. Two years before the end of the Thirty Years' War in Europe, the Netherlands established a permanent representative in Russia, opening a chapter in the history of great development of relations between the two countries.

Later, as we all know, Peter the Great personally led a diplomatic mission to the Netherlands for inspection and study at the end of the 17th century. The Netherlands also personally taught the Russian elites comprehensive knowledge and technologies such as navigation, guns, and shipbuilding. . During this period, a large number of Dutch books were translated into Russian, and Russians were proud to learn Dutch. It can be said that the Netherlands is the driving force for Russia to move toward modern civilization and the navigator for Russia to understand Western Europe. After the Netherlands was occupied by Napoleon's army and became a vassal state of France, it was the Russian army that finally marched into big cities such as Amsterdam and drove the French out of the Netherlands. Then the Russian Tsar married his sister to the second king of the United Kingdom of the Netherlands, which consisted of the Netherlands, Belgium, and Luxembourg. In other words, Russian blood flows in the blood of the Dutch royal family today.

Is there any country in Western Europe that has a closer relationship with Russia than the Netherlands?

Definitely not. Russia, which had become "stronger", suddenly became the protective umbrella of the Netherlands. Not only did it help the Netherlands solve the separation issue when Belgium became independent, it also helped it mediate in the colonial dispute with France. It also stored part of the country's gold reserves in Amsterdam and made a large amount of investment in Dutch industry, allowing Amsterdam to usher in its second development at the end of the 19th century. A golden age. During World War I, although the Netherlands declared neutrality, it still raised funds for injured Russian soldiers and provided mobile hospital equipment to Russia. Before the outbreak of the Crimean War, the Netherlands was an important source of foreign investment for Russia and had long been Russia's second largest crude oil market. Russia and the Netherlands have been in love with each other for more than 300 years and have been connected by flesh and blood for more than 200 years. The Netherlands is destined to be Russia's ally in Europe. This reminds me of my daughter's Russian piano teacher. Her son did not get into the ideal university in the United States, but he got a full scholarship at the best university in the Netherlands. The Netherlands really loves Russians. In the ongoing conflict between Russia and Ukraine, the Netherlands was the first to cut off flights to Ukraine. Netherlands, do you think no one will recognize you if you wear a "vest"?

Some people still know you. You are the "mouthpiece" of the United States and Russia lurking underwater. In this Ukrainian crisis in which the United States and Russia played double roles and pointed their swords at Germany, you lived up to the expectations of the United States and Russia and fired the first shot. So, why did the United States cause the Ukraine crisis? Because Germany "does not drink the toast but is punished by drinking it" and tries to take advantage of the safe trade network provided by the United States to the world, taking advantage of all the benefits. It does not want to increase military spending, but it does not want to side with the United States; it wants to get a piece of the fight between China and the United States, but it also wants to flirt with Russia. As a result, the United States has been unable to achieve a united front to reshape the global industrial chain. The United States has put up with it. It’s been a long time. So why does Russia not hesitate to issue threats to use nuclear weapons, and why does it not hesitate to bear the reputation of being a "rat on the street, everyone shouts to beat it" to fully cooperate with the United States' performance? Because of the huge benefits. Russia’s appeal is by no means independent of the two autonomous regions under Ukraine, nor is it just the interests of Central Asia, it should also include the Middle East. Does the United States want to give the entire Middle East, or most of the interests in the Middle East, to Russia?

If this is the case, the United States has spent enough money to prevent Germany from "hemorrhaging" and will never give up. According to the German Chancellor, "Increase Germany's military expenditure from about 1.5% of GDP to more than 2%, and set up a special fund of 100 billion euros to upgrade armaments; build two liquefied natural gas terminals to transport more liquefied natural gas to Germany, and foreign policy will Judging from the official announcement of "Making Fundamental Adjustments", Germany is on the road to surrender and the United States has won again, but the biggest winner is Russia. Russia will bring the Middle East and Central Asia into its sphere of influence, while the United States will kick out China and join forces with Europe to reshape the global industrial chain. As for the United States selling oil and arms to Germany, suspending the Nord Stream 2 natural gas pipeline, and letting the U.S. dollar Returning to the United States and so on are all "shooting the rabbit out of the grass". So who is the biggest loser in the Ukraine crisis? It's Germany and China. Unfortunately, China has been chosen as the number one enemy by the United States. Although it wants to join forces with Russia, unfortunately the chips in its hands are not attractive enough; Germany is also unfortunate. It wants to be the "boss" of the EU and also wants to "stand on the wall" to check and balance the United States, but It's a pity that I don't have an iron fist in my hand.

The Chinese often say, "The sword dance in Xiangzhuang is intended for Peigong"; the Chinese also often say, "Build the plank road in the open, and cross the Chencang secretly". In this Ukraine crisis, the United States has used ancient Chinese proverbs vividly, which made me appreciate the United States' ability to tell stories vividly, its ability to mobilize public opinion to the world, its ability to accurately grasp the development context of the crisis, and its ability to play international politics at its fingertips. I am so impressed by its capabilities that it is impossible for any country in the world to challenge the United States alone or to form cliques to overthrow it, because most of the world's resources are in the hands of the United States. When Germany finally agreed to delineate its boundaries with China and part ways, the Ukraine crisis came to an end, the epidemic that lasted for more than two years came to an end, and the world structure will usher in a new era.

I don’t know if my “conspiracy theory” is right, but I know that Amsterdam’s “resurrection” with full support from Russia must be right, because the stocks built in Amsterdam at the end of the 19th century and the Commodity Exchange (Beurs van Berlage) are proof of this. This exchange building is only 400 meters away from the red light district. It was designed and built by the famous Dutch architect Berlage. It is an important monument of modern Dutch architecture. Its innovative design influenced other architects, especially the architecture of the Amsterdam School. Style had a positive impact. This red brick building did not imitate the Gothic or Renaissance buildings of the same period, but established its own style. The appearance is simple and plain. The main decoration is a big clock on the tower and three sculptures standing in the corner of the building. Characters, they are legendary heroes in literature, founders of the Dutch East India Company and internationally influential humanists. The interior of the exchange is also unique. The roof of the trading hall is made of double-glazed glass, which provides the hall with a lot of natural light. Famous artists of the time created three tile paintings in the hall representing the past, present and future. There are tiles on the wall representing industry. and commercial murals.

However, I did not get a chance to see the inside of the exchange, which has been converted into an exhibition and concert hall today, because the exchange was closed when I arrived. What I didn’t get the chance to see inside was the Royal Palace Amsterdam. The Royal Palace is also 400 meters away from the Exchange. Dam Square, where it is located, is the birthplace of Amsterdam. It was after a group of adventurers built a dam on the Amstel River that flows through here that the prototype of Amsterdam came into being. , so it is a landmark of Amsterdam and is known as the "navel" of Amsterdam.

The "Navel" must be the political and commercial center of the entire city, and it is natural for the palace to be built here. However, this palace built in the Golden Age of the Netherlands was originally a city hall and court. When Napoleon ruled the Netherlands, , Louis Bonaparte, who was crowned King of the Netherlands, lived here before it was converted into a royal palace. It is called a miracle in the history of architecture in the 17th century because the builders first laid more than 13,000 wooden piles about 15 meters underground, then built a foundation with stones on the wooden piles, and then built the house on the foundation. Therefore, the palace is called "the palace on the wooden piles". Miraculously, these tree stumps are still standing still. Could it be that the Dutch really received guidance from the masters? Today, this nearly 400-year-old palace has an old appearance, but its symmetrical structure gives it a dignified beauty. The triangular lintel in the center is carved with a scene of Amsterdam surrounded by Poseidon and Sea Elves. Above the lintel is a beautiful dome. Octagonal tower.

Unable to enter the palace, I had to wander around Dam Square. In addition to the Royal Palace around the square, there is also the National Monument to commemorate the Nazi persecution in World War II. There is also Madame Tussauds, which was built during World War I and has a collection of different categories including Dutch Golden Age music, sports and movies. (Madame Tussauds) and the 600-year-old New Church (The Nieuwe Kerk), which was converted into an exhibition hall, but these two places are also closed. Even if it opens, I don't think I will go in. What I want to enter is the Rijksmuseum.

From the Royal Palace of Amsterdam to the Rijksmuseum, you have to cross 5 canals. These 5 semi-circular canals firmly wrap up the red light district, stock exchange and Dam Square in the city center, making them not afraid of "wind." Blow the rain”.

At the same time, more than 1,000 bridges built on the canals "integrated" the five canals, including the Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht that were excavated in the golden age of the Dutch Republic. ) forms the canal belt (Grachtengordel), along which are quaint residential areas. The Singel Canal (Singel), which was also excavated in the golden age of the Republic of the Netherlands and is close to the city center, is a moat. The outermost Singel is a moat. The Eure Canal (Singelgracht) was the city's outer boundary during the Dutch Golden Age. These canals established the urban layout of Amsterdam today.

Unlike many old cities in Europe, which are built divergently from the city center outwards, Amsterdam is built from west to east, all the way to the Aiwan. Advancing inward from the outermost Singel Canal, there are the longest Prinsengracht canal in the canal belt, the widest Emperor's Canal, the Gentleman's Canal and the moat Singel Canal with golden turns, and the St. Francis Xavier Church ( De Krijtberg) is right next to the Gentlemen's Canal.

This Catholic church, which has a dark brown appearance and was built shortly after the end of the 80-year war between the Netherlands and Spain, is sandwiched between residential buildings. This makes it look a bit stingy, but it is an impressive imitation. Built for the Cologne Cathedral in Germany. I have been to Cologne Cathedral. It was the first time I saw a majestic church in Europe. I still remember it vividly. However, due to the lack of space, the exterior of St. Francis Xavier Church cannot be as big as Cologne. Compared with the church, only the two Gothic twin towers soaring into the sky can still see a little bit of the Cologne Cathedral, but the brilliant colors inside it are unique.

Walking into the warm church, I felt that my frozen blood began to flow again. Directly in front of the church is the altar. The stained glass windows behind the altar are shining with colorful lights under the bright lights. Above is Jesus hanging in the air and being crucified on the cross. I couldn't bear to look at the sight of His suffering, so I had to stare. Look at the icon of the Twelve Apostles below him. At first glance, the colors around the church appear complicated and messy, but upon closer inspection, you will find that goose yellow is the base color, and blue, red, green, and gold are the matching colors. The cross-use of these colors visually extends the breadth and variety of colors, making the church look like It is both concise and bright. I sat down on the chair and watched the mass being held in the church. Listening to the sweet sound of the choir coming from the organ, my mind couldn't help but drift to the golden age of the Netherlands.

The religious tolerance policy of the Netherlands Republic ushered in a golden age for both Amsterdam and the Netherlands Republic. Complementing the golden age was the explosion of science, culture and art, free air and economy. The prosperity of the Dutch Republic created a country with bright stars. Leeuwenhoek invented the microscope and discovered bacteria and microorganisms using it; Kobisch invented the telescope, which became the predecessor of the astronomical telescope of Galileo, the "father of modern science", and Huygens was a god-level existence. In astronomy, he not only discovered Titan, the largest of the satellites orbiting Saturn, but also discovered the Orion Nebula and the rings of Saturn; in mathematics, he discovered probability and the cycloid; in mechanics, he Applying "pendulum" to timers opened a new era of human timers, and designed and produced the first timekeeping pendulum clock in human history; in physics, he proposed Huigen in "The Theory of Light" Using Sri Lanka's principle, the boiling point and freezing point in thermometers were also determined. How could Huygens, who had made so many contributions in so many fields, not have the blessing of a great god?

Fields such as philosophy and art are also star-studded. Spinoza used Euclid's geometric method to write the famous "Ethics". His unique philosophical system not only provided a blueprint for subsequent scientific integration, but also had an influence on Marx; Hugo Grau Sius published "The Law of War and Peace" and became the originator of international law. Of course, the most well-known ones are Rembrandt and Vermeer, and many of their paintings are preserved in the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. I know that appreciating famous paintings by masters is my shortcoming, so I did some homework before traveling.

During this trip to the Netherlands, this museum is what I have pinned my hopes on. When I confidently walked across the canal to find the "traces" of the master, I was stopped by an old man riding a bicycle on the side of a canal. He asked me if I knew English, and I said yes. He said, "You see I am so old and need help." I thought to myself, if you can ride a bicycle, what help do you need from me, so I replied to him, "I'm sorry, this is the responsibility of the Dutch government, not mine." After that, I turned around and left.

The Rijksmuseum is located next to the Singel Canal, the outermost layer of Amsterdam. After leaving the canal belt, Amsterdam has become a "passerby", but the appearance of the Rijksmuseum, built in the first year of France's occupation of the Netherlands and modeled after the Louvre, still makes my eyes shine. When I was excited to go in and admire the museum's treasures, Rembrandt's "Night Watch" and Vermeer's "Milkmaid" and other paintings, I couldn't find the ticket office, so I had to ask a gentleman , he said that the Netherlands will start a nationwide lockdown from this day, and all restaurants and museums will be closed. When I heard this, I suddenly realized that it was no wonder that the canal area was deserted. All the ships were docked there quietly. I thought it was not business hours yet.

I left the museum angrily and saw the elementary school students selling "art" singing. I asked them what they were doing. They didn't understand English and seemed to be raising money. I continued to travel through the canal belt, looking at the houseboats, a specialty of the Dutch canals, and looking for the floating flower market (Bloemenmarkt) next to the Mint Square. I think the flower market by the Singer Canal should be a grand scene in spring, but in the cold winter and the city is closed, the flower market looks listless. Only two are open and customers are not allowed to enter. , I can only stand outside the fence and watch. The flower market is adjacent to the Mint Square, which has the widest bridge in Amsterdam numbered No. 1 and the Mint Tower, which was once one of the three main ancient city gates in the Middle Ages and was named after it was a mint in the 17th century.

I looked at the clock on the mint. It was already noon. Although I'm not hungry, I need to go to the bathroom. Where can I go to find it? I hope there can be one in the old church (Oude Kerk) next to the red light district. This church has Europe's largest medieval wooden roof and Europe's top acoustics, so it is often a venue for concerts, but it is closed. I was so anxious that I had no choice but to walk to the train station which was not far away. As I walked out of the street, I suddenly discovered the neo-Baroque and neo-Renaissance style St. Nicholas Cathedral (Basiliek van de Heilige Nicolaas). Photography is not allowed inside the church, and I didn’t want to take any photos. I just wanted to find the restroom. It’s really available here and it’s free. I’m very happy. But all restaurants are closed, where can I go for lunch? Try your luck at the train station.

This beautiful train station built in the Second Golden Age of the Netherlands, using Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles, later became the architectural prototype of Tokyo Station in Japan. There is a convenience store in the train station, and the simple lunch boxes there are very delicious. I ate one and took another with me. I was enjoying the heating in the convenience store while charging my mobile phone. When I came out of the train station, dusk had set in Amsterdam, and it was only four o'clock in the afternoon. I walked along the main road to the Stock Exchange, then to Dam Square, then back to the canal strip, until nightfall had completely fallen. I returned to the red light district with great luck, hoping to see a different scenery. However, the red light district was completely dark, with no neon lights and only a few Chinese restaurants open.

Extremely disappointed, I dragged my tired body back home. On this day, I almost saw all of Amsterdam in the golden age. This city that was once extremely tolerant of religions and is now extremely open has become a benchmark in the hearts of countless people. Musicians from Britain, France, the Netherlands, Russia and Canada have composed nearly 70 songs using its name alone, and there is another The name of the novel that won the British Booker Prize for Literature is also called "Amsterdam". Amsterdam, although I missed your colorful flowers in spring, your dazzling history and openness and tolerance made me walk into the flower garden.

When I look back, spring has appeared.