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How to use a SLR camera to shoot videos that look like film?

The first is the collection of materials. This is the most important step. Even a god-level colorist cannot take a 360p video full of noise and create a movie-like texture. What I want to say here is that shooting video with a SLR is really not a strong point, but it is superior to its high cost performance, so there are many aspects that need to be paid attention to when shooting:

Preliminary shooting

1 , fully manual. M mode, ISO manual, white balance manual, focus manual. If you feel that you are not familiar with it, please practice more on your own. There is no future for shooting with automatic SLR.

2. For N system, the shutter speed is 1/60s, and for P system, it is 1/50s (simply speaking, it is twice the frame rate). This is to produce motion blur in a single frame and ensure a basic picture. Smooth. ISO and aperture can be combined freely. Generally, the principle is to keep the ISO as small as possible. In this way, a large aperture can also ensure a shallow depth of field, provided that the focus is accurate.

3. Pay attention to modifying the photo style. Search for cinestyle on the Internet. The main principle of this is to turn off the camera's in-camera optimization (contrast and sharpness) to achieve as much as possible in the mov format. More picture information, convenient for post-production color adjustment.

4. Before starting to shoot, find a good angle and adjust the white balance (get a whiteboard, you don’t need me to teach you), click click click, adjust to the corresponding color temperature, adjust the scene and exposure, and click click click again. Once it's suitable, you can start shooting. Generally speaking, my personal habit is to rather darken 1/3 stop than overexpose. If you don't have raw, you can't pull it back.

5. When Canon users want to take pictures of landscapes, they can consider flashing the Magic Lantern firmware and then opening raw video. This is simply a magical tool! However, it will increase the burden on the machine, the card, and the workbench, so use it with caution.

Post-processing

1. Software. PR color grading for feature films is the mainstream, and AE can be considered when making short films, but the processing will take a little more time and machines. Small studios can only use AE+PR, and the richer ones can use FCPX+DaVinci. The effects that can be achieved are already very rich. Personally, I feel that software is just a tool, and there is no need to pursue the latest and greatest. The best way is to use it smoothly and run comfortably on your machine.

2. Plug-in. Magic Bullet Suite is the king. With the built-in Color Correction special effects and masks in the software, almost all color correction effects can be completed. The only difference lies in the fineness of color correction.

3. The personal process is generally to adjust the RGB curve to a relatively balanced level first, and then start to use MBL or Colorista to adjust, usually dark tone RG>B. The specific situation depends on the tone of the film itself. The rest is a matter of aesthetics.

4. When it comes to portraits, it is recommended to cut out the portrait first and use it as a mask. If it is not very clean, do a quick blur, then add grain to the areas other than the portrait, and finally add grain to the top and bottom of the screen. Black bars create a widescreen feel.

5. AE and PR are very good workflows. Project files can be imported into each other without exporting the video. Try to finish the product in one go to reduce the loss of image quality in the intermediate process.

Hope to adopt it

This thing still needs to be explored slowly. One day you will take photos that satisfy you