1. Clothing in the pre-Qin period
China's clothing system was first seen in the Xia and Shang Dynasties, and gradually improved in the Zhou Dynasty, and was included in the scope of "rule by courtesy". At that time, the costumes were different according to the identity and status of the wearer. The clothes, clothing and hierarchy of emperors, empresses, officials and officials are increasingly strict.
During the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, the clothing form was mainly made up of a top and a skirt, and the clothes were in positive colors, that is, five primary colors such as blue, red, yellow, white and black. Intermittent color for dress is a mixed color mixed with positive hue. Small sleeve is the most popular clothing, and the length of clothing is usually at the knee. The collar, sleeves and edges of the clothes have different patterns, and the waist is tied with strips. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, a new type of clothing named "Deep Clothes" appeared, which is a kind of conjoined clothing. The appearance of deep clothing has changed the single clothing style in the past, so it is deeply loved by people. It is not only used as a blessing, a dress, but also as a sacrificial dress.
during the warring States period, the birth of Hu fu broke the old style of clothing. Hu fu's jacket, trousers and leather boots are designed to be good at riding and shooting and easy to move, which is widely popular in the army.
the shoes in the pre-Qin period were mainly shoes, shoes, boots and other shapes. Among all the shoes, ponding is the most expensive. In the Zhou Dynasty, the monarch and the king had three colors, white, black and red, which were worn on different occasions. Shoes are a kind of high-top casual shoes, made of leather; Boots came from the western regions, and were worn by Hu people when riding horses and shooting arrows. Later, the Han people gradually accepted them.
2. Costumes in the Qin and Han Dynasties
During the fifteen years when the Qin Dynasty ruled China, Qin Shihuang accepted the flags of six countries to serve the royal family, and established the system of dressing and dressing. The costumes of the Qin Dynasty are still one-piece, with wide sleeves and big robes, and the clothing system is strictly prohibited.
The rank of clothing in the Han Dynasty is mainly reflected by the crown, hat and ribbon. Different official positions have different crowns and hats. Therefore, the crown system in the costumes of the Han dynasty is particularly complicated, with as many as 16 kinds. There were also strict rules for shoes and shoes in the Han Dynasty: all sacrificial clothes were worn, the wearing rate of court clothes was high, and the shoes were worn when going out. When women get married, they should wear clogs, and they should also draw colorful pictures on them and tie colorful ribbons.
3. Costumes in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties
Costumes in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties generally still inherited the old system of Qin and Han Dynasties. When the Southern and Northern Dynasties first established their political power, the ethnic minorities still dressed according to their own customs. Later, influenced by the Han culture, they began to wear Han costumes.
People's clothes in the Central Plains, especially casual clothes and regular clothes, absorb the characteristics of many northern ethnic groups on the original basis, and the clothes are in proper form. In the Six Dynasties, men wore gowns with low skirts, while women wore gowns and double skirts, which were very beautiful. For the costumes of this period, you can refer to the scrolls such as Luo Shen Fu and Lienv Biography.
The costumes of the Northern Dynasties are characterized by fitted trousers, short gowns and various boots. The costumes are narrow and short, and the skirts and waists are slightly raised. Women's clothes are mostly decorated with hairpin flowers, pearls and various corollas, which led to the customization of rockhopper in Song Dynasty.
costumes of the Southern Dynasties and costumes of the Northern Dynasties
Free and easy and graceful Wei and Jin styles with brocade patterns embroidered with concentric chicory-Jin
4. Costumes of the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties
Costumes of the early Sui Dynasty are relatively simple. Robes and Hu clothes were the main costumes at that time. Since Emperor Yangdi of Sui Dynasty, the social atmosphere has changed, and the costumes have become increasingly gorgeous. This gorgeous style lasted until the Tang Dynasty.
in the early Tang dynasty, the car and clothing system was inherited from the sui system. It was not until 621 AD that the order of car clothing was officially promulgated, and the crown clothing system began to be established. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of China's economy and culture. The painting, sculpture, music and dance of the Tang Dynasty absorbed foreign skills and styles, and adopted an inclusive attitude towards foreign costumes. This makes the costumes of this period shine brilliantly and have the characteristics of the times. Due to the exchange of Chinese and Western cultures, many novel costumes appeared in the Tang Dynasty, and Hu Fu had a great influence at this time, especially on the production of trousers and pleats. The costumes of the Qin and Han Dynasties, such as cross-collar, take off your coat blouse and long skirt, were gradually eliminated and replaced by collar, tight sleeves, fitted blouse and thin skirt. Clothing gradually opens up, emphasizing the aesthetic feeling of posture, with hanging shawl or Hu Mao; In addition to the high-heeled shoes, there are also small boots. Coupled with the development of textiles, many thin and soft fabrics have been developed, so transparent and multi-level wearing has begun to lead the coquettish. The most representative clothing features in this period are: topless, high waist, shawl, bright clothes, men's clothes, Hu clothes and so-called "fashionable clothes".
In the Tang Dynasty, ladies wore skirts, and their waists were extremely high, even higher than their chests. The skirt colors are red, purple, yellow and green, among which red is the most popular. The dress is topless and short, with a wide and long shoulder towel and a high-headed cloud shoe. Women's clothing shows sexy charm, among which the use of bright clothes is famous. Ming Yi originally belonged to the single dress and was made of transparent tulle. In the past, it was only worn as underwear, but in the prosperous Tang dynasty, Ming clothes were used as coats and became costumes.
Disguising as a man is also one of the costume features in the Tang Dynasty. Wearing narrow-sleeved round neck robes, belts and trousers, in addition, you can wear Hu Fu, Hu Mao and women disguised as men; These clothes have wide sleeves, narrow sleeves, round neck, lapels and uppers, which were very distinctive at that time.
5. Clothing in the Song Dynasty
In the early days of the founding of the Song Dynasty, all the clothes and costumes followed the clothing system of the late Tang Dynasty. After the new system was issued, it was gradually divided into sacrificial clothes, royal clothes, public clothes (also known as official clothes in the Song Dynasty), seasonal clothes (clothes given to civil and military courtiers according to seasons), military clothes and mourning clothes. The dress of women in Song Dynasty is similar to that of women in Han Dynasty. They are all slender, with narrow sleeves and crossed collars, and they wear all kinds of long skirts with elegant colors. Usually, long-sleeved double-breasted lapels are worn outside the clothes, and embroidered edges are painted on the neckline and front of the lapels, which is called "collar wiping". The main characteristics of costumes in Song Dynasty are fresh, simple, natural and elegant.
In Song Dynasty, women mainly wore skirts, but they also had trousers. Its trousers are in a special form, which includes not only close-fitting trousers, but also multi-layer trousers. In Song Dynasty, women had the custom of binding their feet, so the skirts were not as long as the ground, so as to show their feet. Women's elbow booties are small and exquisite in shape.
In the Song Dynasty, fabrics were very developed, and clay, gold, gilding, painting and embroidery were widely used in clothing. The texture of the fabric is light and elegant, giving people a sense of beauty.
6. Costumes in Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties
After the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, political power with Liao, Xixia, Jin, Yuan and other ethnic minorities as the main body appeared in China society. Although some of the costumes of these ethnic groups have been preserved in Chinese, they reflect the characteristics of ethnic minorities more.
The dress system in Liao Dynasty was not uniform. The costumes of the Jin Dynasty were not complete at first, and it was not until the Yuan Dynasty that the costumes became more and more mature and gorgeous. The costumes of the Yuan Dynasty were collectively referred to as robes, and there was little difference between men and women. Made of gorgeous woven gold cloth and precious fur; However, due to the national nature, it can be divided into Mongolian system and Chinese system. The typical Mongolian crown dress is a robe with "aunt's crown" as the main part. It is knee-length with a long skirt and soft leather boots, and it is the dress worn by the imperial concubine of the Yuan Dynasty. Women's clothing made in the Han Dynasty generally followed the style of the Song Dynasty, with large sleeves or narrow sleeves, and often wore long sleeves with narrow sleeves, pleated skirts, trousers and shoes with shallow soles, which were the characteristics of clothing at that time.
7. Clothing in the Ming Dynasty
The Ming Dynasty attached great importance to rectifying and restoring the traditional Han etiquette. First of all, the clothing system of the Yuan Dynasty was abandoned, and then according to the traditional customs of the Han nationality, the Zhou and Han dynasties were adopted, and the Tang and Song dynasties were adopted, making new regulations on the clothing system.
men's clothing in the Ming dynasty restored the traditional characteristics of the Tang and Song dynasties, with robes as the main clothing. The robe is still bareheaded; Civil and military officials wear Liang Guan and red clothes when offering sacrifices; The number of beams on the crown and the grades of the ribbons worn; The official official wears a robe, with a collar, a right slit and sleeves three feet wide, and is made of silk or yarn. The colors of robes are customized: Fei for one to four products, green for five to seven products, and green for eight to nine products, and various patterns are embroidered according to grades. The uniform is relatively simple, and generally consists of a black hat, a collar shirt and a leather belt.
Women in the Ming Dynasty mainly wore shirts, coats, summer gowns, skirts and so on. Most of the styles of clothes were copied from the Tang and Song Dynasties, which restored the customs of the Han nationality. Ordinary women's dresses in the Ming dynasty can only be purple coarse cloth, and gold embroidery is not allowed. Only purple, green and other light colors can be used for robes, and red and yellow are not allowed. Ladies' clothing in the Ming Dynasty can be divided into formal clothes and casual clothes. Formal clothes are wide tops and long sleeves, while casual clothes are fit, narrow and slender, mainly long coats and long skirts. During this period, the use of Yunjian and Bijia (long vest) was the most distinctive. Ladies in the Ming Dynasty wore narrow sleeves and pleated skirts, which advocated narrow fit. In the Ming Dynasty, women liked to wear Bijia as an out-of-town dress with thin trousers or big pants.
Foot-binding was popular in the Ming Dynasty, and it was beautiful. Most of the costumes are decorated with flowers, and they like purple, green, pink and various light colors. As for red, crow green and yellow, only royal nobles can use them.
8. Clothing in the Qing Dynasty
The winter dresses of the Empress Dowager, Empress, Imperial Concubine, Imperial Concubine and Imperial Concubine were decorated with pieces of gold, sea dragon edge, red gold satin and azurite satin
The clothing in the Qing Dynasty has undergone great changes. The content of ladies' clothing in Qing Dynasty is mainly flag dress, including: cheongsam, blouse, gown, wide-mouth trousers, wide pleated skirt, and so on. This kind of clothing is mostly closed collar and right slit, and the collar, lapel and sleeves are decorated with wide hem, and the sleeves are short and wide, reaching to the hands; The robe has a high slit at the side, wide pants at the bottom and flowerpot shoes. Some Qing dynasty costumes followed the style of Ming dynasty, with long coats and big shirts as coats, close-collared right cuffs, short sleeves and wide; Wear a wide pleated skirt, which is full-length and full-length, and wear wide-mouthed trousers without embroidered shoes.
The costumes of the Qing Dynasty are a blend of the styles of Han and Manchu. They are long-lapped and long-lapped, with Manchu high-necked, wide-lapped sleeves and knee-length gowns, which are matched with Chinese hairstyles, long skirts and embroidered shoes, and sometimes long coats, which are a legacy of the Ming Dynasty. Some coats have a waistcoat in the form of a sleeveless jacket with a high collar and a right shoulder. The collar, lapel and skirt are also decorated with wide edges, and they wear wide trousers and pointed embroidered shoes. These are typical dressing styles in Qing Dynasty.
9. Modern clothing (the transformation of the west wind spreading to the east)-clothing after the Revolution of 1911
Since Qianlong, western goods have been imported into China, and foreign raw materials for clothing have greatly attracted domestic women, so there have been obvious changes in clothing and furniture, forming an atmosphere of advocating "new style" and "western style".
After the Revolution of 1911, the clothing system changed greatly, and the official clothes and top hats in the Qing Dynasty were eliminated. The most prominent thing is to cut braids. At that time, "cutting" and "staying" have become a watershed between innovation and conservatism. The pioneers of braiding are officials and intellectuals in cities, but it is still not easy to accept in remote villages. At that time, although the flag-bearer costume disappeared, cheongsam still existed, and the "blue cloth coat" among female students was the leading style, and then it became increasingly popular.
With the appearance of movies, movie stars have become increasingly prominent figures, Shanghai has become the base camp of women's wear in China, and Guangdong and Hong Kong clothes have become a branch of Shanghai clothes. In the early years of the Republic of China, women's lives changed. Influenced by foreign thoughts, modern women living in metropolises went out of boudoir and rushed to the society to join the film industry, commerce, handicrafts, teachers, dancers and even officials. Due to the requirements of such occupations, it became inevitable to change their clothes.
Because of the frequent communication between cities and the outside world, the styles and materials of clothing change rapidly, while the difference between remote mountainous areas and rural areas is almost 15 years. For example, when Shanghai women have started to iron their hair and wear high heels, women in Sanhe County, Hebei Province are still wearing crowns three or four hundred years ago and a pair of "three-inch golden lotus" under their feet; When the aristocratic women in Beiping were already wearing close-fitting cheongsam, there were also large sleeves in Gansu that were fashionable in Shanghai 3 years ago. In the first year of the Republic of China, the government stipulated the shape of men's and women's dresses, and men had big dresses and regular dresses. There are two kinds of big dresses: day dresses and evening dresses, both of which use black underwear and bow ties. There are two kinds of dresses: western-style and Chinese-style. Chinese-style dresses are gowns and mandarin jackets. Women's dresses are knee-length, collared and double-breasted. The front and back of the skirt are mirrored, and both sides are tied. Urban women get married in white gauze, silk dresses and white bouquets, and hold a "civilized" wedding. Peasant women still wear red coats and beads, and ride in red sedan chairs, maintaining the old customs. In the early years of the Republic of China, some areas in Fujian even continued to use the wedding dresses of the Ming Dynasty. Women wore corrugated hats or square kerchiefs, Xia Pei and Zhu Guan, while men wore top hats with red satin braids or red silk threads. This is a mismatch between men's and women's costumes and a greater distance from the city.
after the northern expedition, the government stipulated a new clothing system, and men adopted Chinese tunic suits and suits. These two kinds of clothes are foreign styles, which are more commonly used in officials and intellectuals. In summer, they are white, and in other seasons, they are black or dark. Robes and mandarin jackets are still a kind of uniforms. Standing collar, three bags and seven buttons are mainly uniforms of institutions of higher learning. It is also common to use robes, waistcoats and vests. In addition, it is a common costume for men and women in the countryside to put on a shirt, trousers or a skirt (a long or short skirt). Women's clothing changed greatly during this period, and some of them retained Qing-style underwear; There are tops and skirts that imitate western styles; In the school, most female students have large cardigans, round bottoms, elbow-length sleeves and black silk skirts. Cheongsam is still the main dress of women in society, and it became popular again after 2 years of the Republic of China. The general trend of new clothes can be divided into two types, one is a curved long cheongsam with various plain colors or printed fabrics, which is characterized by adding panels, patchwork or a vest and silk scarf on the edge of the dress, and the other is a dress with a separate top and skirt.
In the 193s and 194s, due to the entry of foreign goods and the infiltration of western living customs, women in big cities in China frequently went in and out of communication places, which made the social atmosphere change, and the fit dress was the most prominent. Foreign-style dresses were even more fashionable and romantic with glasses and watches, and umbrellas in their hands. Modern fashions in Europe and Japan have influenced women in China from short skirts, underwear and colors, and more and more people are imitating them. There are even simple costumes that imitate the United States. Sports-loving ladies wear red pleated skirts with silver bells and replace the old Chinese-style chest covering with bras. In addition, the dress "The Soviet Union called it" Blagi "in the 195s" is also more common. Tracing back to its root, the traditional dress style in ancient China is the form of a dress with a top and a skirt, but it is more simplified and convenient to move when it is introduced from the west again. From the 192s to the 194s after the Republic of China, fur clothes were still popular in the homes of the rich, and anti-wool coats were expensive clothes since ancient times. The "end cover" in Qing dynasty is also a kind of anti-wool double-breasted coat, the difference is that it is not lapel. "Cloak" is a common clothing style when going out. It is chic and graceful, and it was popular among men and elderly women in the upper class at that time. Although there are only a few types of the above clothes, due to China's large population, vast territory and great regional differences, the clothes in many areas can be selected and mutated from several types of clothes by using the differences in color, decoration and raw materials.
Leather shoes, handbags and umbrellas were all brought in by Japanese "Oriental women". This kind of costume appeared in Guangzhou in the last years of Guangxu, and was called "free women" costume, which showed their open mind and behavior. At the beginning of the Republic of China, some people began to "get married in a civilized way", do "civilized undertakings" and set up "small families".