A girl, a backpack, ninety days, three months, 3.3 million steps, Lhasa! Lhasa! Wherever your footprints go, they are etched in your heart.

Tibet Boundary Monument

When arriving in Tibetan areas for the first time, all people entering Tibet will be very concerned about the Tibetan boundary monument that separates it from other provinces.

Is that the Tibetan world? ! How did my feet get to this bridge? Before the tears could be dried by the scorching sun, they were blown away from the cheeks by the oncoming hot wind. I am standing at the end of this bridge, this gray Jinsha River Bridge. I am standing in Sichuan on this end, looking at Tibet on the other end.

34 days, 843 kilometers, 1265644 steps, how did my feet get on this bridge? On the right side of the bridge heading towards Tibet, there is a boundary monument - the Tibetan boundary. It is like a switch that turns on the light of heaven. When I walk through it, it lights up the light.

Standing on this bridge over the Jinsha River, I can see clouds floating in the mountains, and I can see the white houses in Tibet. I can see that the Jinsha River is narrower in the distance and wider near. Its surface is so peaceful, so peaceful that I thought it was peaceful inside too. Its color is so strong that it makes me think that its past is not lonely. But it is so peaceful and lonely, flowing from high to low, waiting for the eagle to fly over it. And no matter where I stand in the Jinsha River, I can't taste its thousand-year tears. I can't even hold the golden sand in the palm of my hand. Just like I can't taste the snow water in the mountains, nor can I hold up time.

The first time I met Tibetan compatriots, I saw that their faces were engraved with the wrinkles of time, their backs were to the mountains, they were located on the plateau, and they were facing the sky. Those old and peaceful eyes witnessed that I finally walked into the place where they lived from another place!

Tibetan Sky

Haizi wrote in "Poems of the Dark Night" that after a long journey through here, there is nothing in the sky, so why does it comfort me.

What is there in Tibet and what is there in Lhasa that attracts so many people? I think one of them is the unique blue sky and white clouds.

The sky here is open to anyone.

It's true. The pads of my fingers and the corners of my eyes became warm. Open your palms, and the palms of your hands are also golden. I clenched my empty hands, as if I were holding the sky. The sky has nothing, why give me comfort. If I couldn't reach this blue sky and white clouds, would I still leave?

The sky in my memory has made me equate the distant sky with Tibet. If Tibet didn’t have such a sky, maybe I wouldn’t go there again, let alone walk there? The sky is as vast as the sea, but more mysterious than the sea, because we have no way to taste it like the sea water in the palm of our hands. The sky is as majestic as the mountains, but more sacred than the mountains, because we have no way to measure its breadth like climbing mountains.

Approaching the snow-capped mountains, I say this for Fanfan

In Tibet, you can appreciate the beauty of the snow-capped mountains with your own eyes. If you are lucky, you can even touch the skin of the snow-capped mountains.

On the way to Tibet, the first time I saw snow-capped mountains was when I looked at Meili Snow Mountain in Deqin. The face of the goddess, the king of the snow mountains, was very cold. I saw the faint light of the sun shining on it, but I did not see the golden light.

In order to get closer to the snow-capped mountains, we even detoured dozens of kilometers to see Baima Snow Mountain. We didn’t see it, but we did reach an altitude of more than 4,000 meters for the first time and felt the cold wind. Because the car got stuck in the grassland swamp, we had already reached the foot of Renlongba Glacier, but we still passed it by. After paying the 50 yuan vehicle entrance fee, we looked at the Mira Mountain Glacier at close range. The glacier was not white. But in addition to the blue sky, white clouds, grasslands, white sheep, and yaks, there really must be snow-capped mountains to accompany you. Otherwise, the flavor of Tibet will not be strong.

Haizi said in "Tibet", "Which snow mountain makes me a king, a lonely stone fills the whole sky, no tears make me a flower, no king makes me a throne." Fanfan also admired the snow-capped mountains affectionately.

Maybe it’s because, looking into the eyes of the king, we all become the king in our own hearts.

Walking on the mountainside, there were rocks falling from time to time, and the dust hit my face

I also passed by Rumei Town, and the deepest realization in my heart was that the environment here is too difficult and the Tibetan people here are too tough. Fanfan’s journey here has given him a deeper understanding.

From Rumei to Jueba Village, one side is close to the cliff where gravel falls at any time, and the other side is the Lancang River flowing through it. Because it is far away, the rumble cannot be heard, but its water surface is always agitated. The white water foam is so turbulent that it is unstoppable.

Stay in Jueba Village at night. It is located at the foot of Jueba Mountain, like a lonely place nestled in the bottom of the valley. Jueba Mountain is less than four thousand meters above sea level. But it looked like it was split downwards with great force by a heavenly soldier holding a big axe. The road over the mountain is like being born on a cliff.

The straight road ahead leading to the Dongda Mountain pass at an altitude of 5008 meters is a bit lonely at the moment. A large number of cycling teams had already passed here before noon. "They must want to get to the pass as soon as possible! Every mountain is the biggest "enemy" of our group, and the pass of each mountain is the biggest reward. Rewards always come with pain.

Four major hates in life: one hates riding a bicycle, the other hates riding a bicycle on the Sichuan-Tibet Line, the third hates the slopes of the Sichuan-Tibet Line, and the fourth hates that I am one of them. "There are a lot of slopes, uphill and downhill, slope after slope." When he was desperate to climb the slopes, Fanfan comforted himself: The road without scenery has come here, and you can't lose your chain later! come on! come on!

Seeing the grassland, lying on the grassland

I wrote the word "big" on this piece of green.

I want to dig into the soil and become a weed, so that I don’t have to be afraid of the darkness and cold of the night. I in the grassland want to talk to the sun: "Sun, can you see my appearance?" The sun in the sky wants to talk to the grassland: Grassland, can you hear my voice? "

It is said in "Traveler" that you leave the darkness and never come back. At this time, I thought that Fanfan should be lying on the grassland, with his head on the grass cushion, looking up at the blue sky, not wanting to get up.

Walking together, walking alone, and walking together again

The pig walking alone on the Sichuan-Tibet line understood that only sharing is the real happiness.

The excitement of the first trip. Under the grinding day after day, all the beautiful fantasies were penetrated little by little by the trivial obstacles. Everyone's temperament, strengths and weaknesses will be revealed, and my dizzy head and splitting pain will make me lose it. I lost all my patience and didn't want to talk to anyone. I wanted to completely close myself in and transform into a silkworm chrysalis that didn't want to break out of its shell. Is this the cry from my heart?

The differences in physical fitness between men and women, time constraints, and travel budget are all very real issues in this relatively closed space. I cited these questions one by one as reasons for walking alone.

In order to survive, I did not dare to listen to songs while walking, for fear that I would miss the sound of the whistle and die. Wheel.

Music is a spiritual companion. It exists invisibly in life. When I lose my fighting spirit, music makes me regain my strength; when I am full of hope, music makes me more energetic; when I am speechless. When I'm watching, music becomes my language; when my body hurts, music makes me forget the pain.

However, music makes me want to communicate with others, even if it's just in a language I don't understand. Passing by Tashigang Village, I was even more eager to meet fellow Tibetan people.

At this moment, no matter how loud I shouted, no one would notice me. This made me miss the days when I spent time with my teammates even more. Especially when I think about the part of the road before leaving, I can't help feeling how stupid I was.

I reminded myself: "I walked on the road voluntarily, and the no-man's land was my must to reach Lhasa. Through the road. "I encourage myself: "Every successful person must be able to endure loneliness. "I comforted myself: "Loneliness is only temporary, I am not alone. ”

How can I be alone? Without others, I can’t even know who I am. So does solitude really exist? Why do all my thoughts about life and my understanding of myself Based on the connection with others? Why am I so eager to share the direction of the highland barley fields floating in the wind?

Without sharing, what is the meaning of living? I think, one day, I will be in my life. Write a sentence on the tombstone - It's great to have you here

Angel Anjiula Mountain

The 12th mountain climbed by the Sichuan-Tibet Line - Anjiula Mountain. As the name suggests, it looks like a loving Angel, without any thrilling cliffs.

I was warmed by the light of the angel, and it seemed that I could follow this surprisingly gentle road to the top of the snow-capped mountains with my eyes closed. The constant blowing diamond wind made me realize that "angels and devils are born from the same body"

I kept moving forward with my heart torn apart by the no-man's land. "One Hundred Life-Destroying Methods of Diamond Wind" is being written every step of the way.

Tibetan Pilgrimage

I remember the nearly 100-year-old man on the crowded stairs of the Potala Palace. , using crutches, climbing up vigorously

What a ritualistic thing it is to go on a pilgrimage!

Maybe I understand that the life of the land lies in the growth of seeds, or maybe I understand the meaning of tears. Life lies in the movement of the heart. But I still don’t understand the meaning of pilgrimage.

I will be moved to tears by the vegetation growing at an altitude of 5,000 meters, but I can’t explain the meaning of life, just like me. I can't explain why a leaf can record the years.

Maybe our life is a pilgrimage - from new life to death, and from death to new life. Maybe I will never understand it in my lifetime. One morning, I suddenly realized that the answer is hidden in time, so why should I be greedy?

Walking through Ranwu Lake, completing the seventy-two turns

"Forrest Gump": Life? Just like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're going to get.

Ranwu Lake, the largest lake in eastern Tibet, looks like a blue mirror even in the rain, as if it can separate the sky and the earth. All the filth in the world is revealed, and all the beauty is revealed.

I still remember joking with my friend: "I want to hang a huge mirror in the house and look at my body every day." "If I could really do what I said and dare to look directly at myself, maybe I would have understood it long ago.

Climbing to the pass of Yela Mountain with an altitude of 4658 meters, it rained heavily. Walking forward, you will reach the 72nd Turn of Nujiang River. Its scenery is not outstanding, but it is called a fatal turn because of its many sharp turns.

Tongmai Natural Danger

Tongmai Bridge, a suspension bridge responsible for protecting the Sichuan-Tibet Line, spans the Parlong Zangbo River with a total length of 258 meters. In order to ensure that the carrying capacity is safe, the bridge only allows one-way traffic. However, it is also guarded by the majestic armed police like the Nujiang Bridge. No one is allowed to stay or take pictures.

I took a deep breath, my cheeks puffed up, and hot air came out of my mouth. Cars slowly passed by and onto the bridge. My eyes were fixed on the iron plate under my feet, and the nails of my left hand clenched into a fist were almost digging into the palm of my hand to bleed. Every step I took was as silent as possible, for fear that it would be broken by my step. With every step forward, his stiff-jointed right hand clenched, loosened, and tightened again on the cold steel chain. My heart is pounding, I am walking on this damn dangerous road.

Or disaster strikes - the mountain faults, boulders, soil, and torn vegetation slide downwards, the boulder hits the head, the body is buried in the soil, and the torn vegetation penetrates the chest. It only takes a few seconds. clock time. However, it takes 30 seconds or even longer for you to escape. If God grants you a miracle, then maybe you can see armed police and search and rescue dogs. But what are the chances of a miraculous survival?

No one cares about the passage of time, no one complains about the current situation, no one knows how to save lives, and no one speaks. The silence made me feel like I was drowning in a pool of stagnant water. My lips sometimes pursed tightly, sometimes opened and I gasped. My hands gripped the trekking pole tightly. First protect your head with both hands, then bend down and hide your head and torso under the backpack. I thought silently in my mind: Run away? Where to run? Want a ride? The car was blocked. When a natural disaster strikes, no matter how strong the iron sheet is, it is like a toy car that a child cannot help but beat in his hands; no matter how wise a person is, he is just a speck of dust in the vast earth.

"Should I write a suicide note? How scared should I be to think about things like this? When death comes, I can't do anything. So in the face of foreseeable death, what can I do? What?

I am still feeling guilty for nearly losing my beloved daughter to my elderly parents when I was close to death. Why don’t I go back home now that I am preparing to face death again? Why do I have to work so hard to realize my damn dream? If my actions bring pain to others, what else can I say about independence and dreams?

Tongmai Tianxuan, can I have a moment of peace? ? If not, how long do these road maintenance workers and armed police have to guard the desperate fortress? Just spend 5 hours of my life, and I want to be a deserter! Why is there such a big difference in will? There is no shortage of cowards in Tongmai, let alone heroes!

When I passed by the Tongmai Tunnel under construction, workers and armed police were stationed at their posts. They saw us. People who come to take risks on the Sichuan-Tibet line think that we are crazy? How many times will the risk of building a tunnel in such a dangerous place be 1000 times that of other terrains?

If the tunnel is opened, we will no longer have to taste the taste of death step by step; if the tunnel is opened, they will no longer have to talk to the god of death day and night; if the tunnel is opened, they will no longer pass by the crowded vehicles. < /p>

If there were no adventures on the Sichuan-Tibet Line, would you still go? If the Sichuan-Tibet Line was not dangerous, would you still go? There are too many mysteries waiting for time to be solved. If the only thing that remains unchanged is change. Time will remember us forever. We will remember every day, even if it is an ordinary day in history.

Goodbye, Tongmai Tianxian.

Lhasa Road Sign, Linzhi Rainy

Lhasa, the end of my trip. At this moment, I am getting closer to you. But when can I see you? Will I cry bitterly? I will! I will shed all my tears in the Jokhang Temple Square!

Lhasa is my hope. There are friends, wine, meat, Tibetan noodles and butter tea, a big soft bed and a shower with a stable water temperature, a dangerous journey to end, and a message of peace to send. We must live by hope, right? So I can wipe away my tears and walk on this damn rainy road. Lhasa!

Rainy Linzhi, what do you think of? Peach Blossom? The Brahmaputra River? Namjagbarwa Peak? The Linzhi in my memory has running Tibetan pigs, the sacred mountains clearing the clouds, and the blazing sun in the cold. , there are big crabs swimming, caterpillars sunbathing, and rain after rain, rain all day long, and rain all night long.

Mira Mountain

“After crossing Mount Mira, we are just around the corner to Lhasa! "I feel like a blazing flame, and even the rain can't extinguish me. Mount Mira is 5,013 meters above sea level and is the last mountain before arriving in Lhasa.

How will I get over it?

When I vigorously open my arms to hug my relatives far away, I will think of the thin air in the tunnel leading to Erlang Mountain; I will think of the first Zheduo Mountain road that really crosses the pass; I will think of the winding mountain road of 50 kilometers The bad roads of Gaoersi Mountain are unpredictable in all seasons; I will think of my friend who passed away in Beijing on the day I crossed Jianziwan Mountain; I will think of the heart-shaped clouds at the pass of Kazila Mountain that melt my heart; I will think of the sister lake of Haizi Mountain as clear as a teenager's Eyes; I will think of the two consecutive days of climbing Zongla Mountain and Lawu Mountain, which made me tired; I will think of the steep cliffs of Jueba Mountain that climbed to the pass in one breath; I will think of Dongda Mountain with snow falling on the pass, and I will remember my father; I will think of The Nujiang River 72 in Yela Mountain is lost with both feet; it reminds me of walking alone in Andiula Mountain and facing loneliness; it reminds me of Class 113 in Sejila Mountain.

In 85 empty days, I can claim the title of king of 14 snow-capped mountains.

Return to Lhasa

4632 is the last road monument to reach Lhasa. Tomorrow, I will no longer pass by road signs with arbitrary numbers; tomorrow, I will no longer look for road books, calculate mileage, and confirm road signs; tomorrow, I will no longer get up early, eat bread at noon, and look for accommodation at night. ; Tomorrow, I can sleep happily until three o'clock in the morning, and then lazily welcome the afternoon with nothing to do.

I can go to Canggu Temple to drink butter tea, and then go to the Lhasa River to bask in the sun. Because I finally made it to Lhasa. I'm back, Lhasa.

"Lhasa is so prosperous. We still have 3 kilometers to reach the Potala Palace."

Walking on the bustling streets of Lhasa, looking for everything I am familiar with. Time has changed a lot but nothing has changed. I seemed to have walked into my past. I wanted to run to the me four years ago and say something to her. But I hesitated to speak. My mind suddenly went blank. It was all too unreal, like a dream in which I was suffering a lot.

When I was sitting in the Potala Palace Square, my backpack was lying next to me, like a fellow sufferer. The scorching sun scorched the ground, making my butt look like a fried egg. The Potala Palace is two hundred meters away from me, but I feel like I live in its heart. I looked at it intently, as if looking at my lover, for fear that it would slip away from my eyes. It will not go away, it will stand here forever, accepting the baptism of sunshine, rain, wind and snow.

I sat quietly, sitting opposite the Potala Palace. There was no earth-shattering cry and no loud celebrations.

The scenes of the 90 days flashed slowly before my eyes one by one like a movie. Every day, no matter what you eat, it is delicious Sichuan food, tasteless flatbread, warm noodles, or life-saving compressed biscuits; every day, no matter where you sleep, you are provided with a clean bed, a hard board, and a thin Moisture-proof mat, or a chair put together; every day, no matter how you sleep, whether you fall asleep, whether it is so painful that you can't sleep, or whether you feel like sleeping and dare not sleep when you have a fever; every day, no matter whether you have pain, whether it is foot pain, back pain, or fever , is vomiting; every day, no matter what the road condition is, whether it is flat, bumpy, or muddy; every day, no matter how long the distance is, whether it is 10 kilometers or 55 kilometers; every day, moving forward is no man's land, and retreating is still no man's land. Every day, going forward is the rainy season, and retreating is still the rainy season.

Which step is not difficult every day? Every day, which step is not a matter of life and death?

"Is that the Potala Palace?"

"Yes."

Among the green mountains in the distance, the magnificent golden dome is like a summons . In order to listen to this sacred call, I traveled across mountains and rivers for 90 days to come to your side.

Tibet, why are you so desirable? Because your air is thin, because you are surrounded by snow-capped mountains, because your Buddha's light is shining, because you are difficult to reach, because you are heaven in three or two steps, or because there is only one Tibet in the world?

When I walked into Lhasa, I wanted to know more about Tibet. I can't tell you why I yearn for this place so much.