Song Dynasty's "Painting Collection" tells the evolution of tea-making technology between Tang and Song Dynasties: Tang Lu Yu cooked "grass tea", that is, loose tea; In the middle of Tang Zhenyuan, the long stick was the secretariat of the state, and it was "steamed and baked, which is called grinding tea".
In the early Song and Qing Dynasties, Louis had a saying: "We will build a tea-frosted state, and get eight children of important officials to give to Damon, Fujian."
Chronicle of Yuan Zong in the Southern Tang Dynasty in the Spring and Autumn Period: "In February of the fourth year of Baoda (946), Jianzhou was ordered to make milk tea." How to make milk tea and milk tea has not been introduced in detail. Later generations analyzed that the two teas are roughly similar. All steamed tea leaves are mashed and mixed with cheese to make cream, just like the "Divine Comedy" tea made later.
At the beginning of the Northern Song Dynasty, "Ding Weifu turned to operate the Phoenix Regiment" and later became the Dragon Regiment. From pulping to milk, and then to Phoenix Group, it is the rapid development of tea-making technology in China.
According to "Song Shi Shi Huo Zhi", "there are two kinds of tea, namely, sliced tea and scattered tea. A piece of tea is steamed and strung in a real roller mold. Wei Jian (Zhou) and Jianjian (Nanjianzhou) are all steamed with bamboo, which is the most exquisite in the curing barn and cannot be made elsewhere. "
In Tea Tasting Record and Zhao Beiyuan Bielu, the tea-making technology of group tea is introduced in detail from the perspective of tea tasting and production practice.
Group tea is divided into many grades according to time, place, bud shape and grade, which is called "class". According to Beiyuan Bielu, there are five grades of fine colors and seven grades of coarse colors. Five kinds of fine colors are juxtaposed with the class name and the number of tributes, while seven kinds of coarse colors are not juxtaposed with the class name, but only included in the number of tributes, collectively known as the large and small Longfeng group tea. The five wonderful names are as follows: The first category is "Belon Gong Xin", which is the earliest product. After more than ten days of baking, it "rushed" to Beijing; The second program is "Bellon tries new things". Ouyang Xiu's poem "Jian 'an takes 3,500 miles, and the capital tastes new tea in March" refers to the first batch of fine teas such as "Gong Xin" and "Try new things". The third category has 15 commodity names, namely, Longtuan Shengxue, White Tea, Yuyuan Yuya, Wanshou Longya, Shanglin No.1, Yeyi Qinggong, Chengping Yawan, Longfeng Huaying, Yuqiuqingwei, Qiwo Cheng En, Xue Ying, Ye Yun, hollyhock, money and inch gold; The fourth category has 13 product names, which are called "Dragon Bloodstream" (different from the shape of the third category), "Wushou Duck", "Wanchun Silver Duck", "Yearning for Yu Bao", "Yuqing Qingyun", "Wujiang Shoulong", "yeyu Changchun", "Ruiyun Xianglong" and "Changshou Yugui". The fifth program has six names, namely Taiping Jiarui, Long Yuan Primula, Nanshan Yingrui, Xingguo Rock Picking Buds, Xingguo Rock Xiaolong and Xingguo Rock Xiaofeng. In Xixi Yu Cong, Jian 'an tribute tea is divided into five grades: 10, some of which are privately baked products, so it can be seen that not all the tribute teas at that time came from official baking. Tuanbing tea "mostly uses precious ointment to oil its surface", and "tribute" slightly uses borneol and ointment to help its fragrance. Jian 'an people try tea, but if they don't taste it, they may steal it. When they are cooked hard, they mix them with precious fruits and herbs, which is very beneficial, but they don't need it (Tea Book). By the year of Harmony (1054, 1055), borneol was no longer added to tribute tea with grade 4 or above, but the added borneol was reduced to coarse color.
Su Dongpo read the poem "Jiang Yi Cooks crazier" written by the Tang Dynasty poet Xue Neng, and thought that drinking tea in Tang Dynasty was "fat and disgusting". The so-called fat gas means that tea is mixed with fragrance. Although "vigorous" and "unrestrained", it lost the true fragrance of tea. Therefore, mixed with spices, the aroma is strong and turbid; The rich aroma is suitable for a numb nose. Feng clearly pointed out that "fragrance is heavy" and "not top grade" in Tea Records. Evonne also clearly pointed out in Daguan Tea Theory: "Tea is really fragrant, not like a dragon musk deer", while Zhu Quan said in Tea Spectrum: Because Lu Yu is too exaggerated and advocates strangeness, he grinds tea into fine powder and then makes tea cakes with its paste. By the time of Renzong in the Northern Song Dynasty, various names such as Longtuan Tea, Fengtuan Tea and Yuetuan Tea had been established for this kind of tea cake. Tea cakes are mixed with various spices, and the surface of tea cakes is coated with gold and silver. "Not without its true flavor". These practices robbed the natural fragrance of tea more or less. It was not until the Grand View during the reign of Xuanhe that Cao's ministers heard about this silver-white iced tea, which was taken as a scenic spot without fragrance. According to the Records of the Historian, when Zheng Chu made silver ice buds, it was also called "taking tea and picking leaves to get the heart, soaking in clear water and removing the fragrance of borneol".
Longfeng Tea Group started from 977 to 139 1, and experienced three dynasties of Song, Yuan and Ming, totaling 4 14.
According to the Record of Tribute to Tea in Xuanhe Beiyuan written by Fan Xiong in Song Dynasty, in the last year of Kaibao (Song Taizu), the Southern Tang Dynasty fell, and in the second year of Taiping Xingguo in Song Taizong (977), a special dragon and phoenix model was made, and envoys were sent to make group tea in Beiyuan, which was different from folk tea. This is when the dragon and phoenix tea lanterns began.
Song Zhenzong was first Pingchu (998— 1003), and in the Song Dynasty (2) he was appointed as Fujian transshipment ambassador, supervised the production of tribute tea, and made forty cakes of Longfeng tea for the emperor, which won his favor and was named "Duke Jin". Since then, Jianzhou has had two kilograms of tribute Dalongfeng tea (eight cakes are one kilogram), namely Dalongtuan tea or Dalongfeng tea.
During the period of Song Renzong Qinglian (1041-1048), Cai Xiang (3) was appointed as Fujian transshipment ambassador, responsible for supervising the production of Beiyuan tribute tea, and transformed the Dragon Group initiated by Ding Wei Song Dynasty into the Xiaolong Group, which was more appreciated by the court. Cai Xiang's preface to "Tea Making in Beiyuan" said: "It's the year, and it's changed to top grade dragon tea. Twenty-eight dollars got a catty, which is extremely exquisite. It is very suitable for the emperor and still contributes every year. " Therefore, Ouyang Xiu said in the Record of Returning to the Field: "Anyone who weighs 20 cakes a catty is worth 22 taels of gold, but gold is available, but tea is not easy to get." That is, later generations called it: Xiaolong Tuancha.
In the twenty-fourth year of Hongwu in Ming Dynasty (139 1), Zhu Yuanzhang, the first emperor of Ming Dynasty, wrote a letter to abolish Longtuan tea in tribute tea. Dalong tea has flourished for 64 years and Xiaolong tea for 350 years.
Longfeng group tea is steamed green tea. According to Zhao's Beiyuan Bielu, there are six processes for making Longfeng Tuancha: steaming tea, pressing tea, grinding tea, making tea, yellow tea and baking tea. That is, picking fresh leaves, soaking them in water, steaming them, washing them with cold water, squeezing out water, squeezing out tea juice, grinding them in a casserole, and making them into dragon and phoenix molded cakes.
Attached:
①: Song, Jianyang, Mao Shu. Scholars call it "Tea Gong Lu of Xuanhe Beiyuan" written by Mr. Du Shan and Fan Xiongyu11-1125 years. This book has two characteristics: one is to record the development process of Beiyuan tea, and the other is to record the period from Xuanhe to Shaoxing. When Xiong Ke, the son of Fan Xiong, was in charge of the management and production of tribute tea on 1 158, he supplemented the contents of Xuanhe Beiyuan Tribute Tea Record and drew 38 pictures of tea cakes.
② Song Dynasty: Song Zi Zhi was born in Changzhou, Suzhou (now Changzhou, Jiangsu) and wrote Tea Map. During Song Taizong's coming years (988- 1003), he served as a transshipment ambassador in Fujian, managed Beiyuan Royal Tea Garden, was responsible for supervising tribute tea and created "Stone Milk" in Heyuan. Ding Wei in Song Dynasty said: "Stone milk. Huang Tingjian, a poet, was full of praise for Heyuan tea: "The auspicious cloud is from the pale wall of Long Qie, and the Yuanfeng is still unknown. In the first spring, Heyuan Baogong bundled Xiangyu food. " Tao: "Fu tea is delicious, sweet and smooth, which is the whole of tea, while the products of Beiyuan Heyuan have both. "
③ Cai Xiang: Song, (1012-1067), born in Xinghua (now Fujian), was a famous scholar and calligrapher in the Northern Song Dynasty. He, Su Shi, Huang Tingjian and Mi Fei are also called "Song Sijia". He used to be a judge of Dali Temple and a transshipment ambassador of Fujian. He wrote the Book of Tea, which was written in the year of Song San (105 1) and finalized in the first year of Zhiping (1064). The first part discusses tea, including the color, aroma and taste of tea, Tibetan tea, fried tea, tea powder and tea sequence. The second part discusses tea sets, focusing on tea-making utensils and tea-making utensils; The situation of adding spices to Beiyuan tribute tea was recorded for the first time, and the methods of drinking tea were introduced comprehensively. Self-contained, it is the most influential book in the Tang Dynasty after Lu Yu's Tea Classic.
(4) Zhao: Song's ambassador to Fujian, in charge of the accounting department. 1 186 wrote "Beiyuan Bielu", which recorded more than 90 kinds of famous teas in the Song Dynasty, mainly steamed Qingtuan cake tea. Because the group tea with borneol spice was boring and upset after drinking, the emperor of the court didn't like it very much, so there was an order to make new tea without spice, and there was also a new tea developed according to God's will, and so on. The folk gradually changed the custom of adding spices ... this is probably an important reason why borneol and spices smoked tea, although still left over in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, is difficult to develop and continue.
Yu Yue, a native of the Qing Dynasty, said in the article "Modern people's tea-making methods began in the early Ming Dynasty": Telford's "The Wild Acquired Supplement" said: "At the beginning of the country, the four-party tribute tea was still made in the Song Dynasty based on the admiration of Jianning and Yang. That is a large and small dragon group. In September of the 24th year of Hongwu, the imperial court attached great importance to labor and people's power, stopped making group tea, and only picked tea buds to promote it. There are four kinds of products: Tanchun, First Spring, Second Spring and Purple Bamboo Shoots. Tea leaves are seasoned and mashed into fine powder, which has distorted the taste. "Today people only take out the essence of bud, draw a tripod in spring, gulp it off, and then open the case of drinking tea through the ages. I don't know if my great-grandfather really pioneered this method. Lu Yu has a spirit, and he will bow down. Cai is underground, and he is also shocked. "
The production of Longfeng group tea in Song Dynasty is too elaborate, which requires huge manpower and material resources. With the decline of the Song Dynasty, Longfeng tea group also came to an end. The rulers of the Yuan Dynasty, from the northern nomadic people, didn't like this delicate and euphemistic tea culture. Ordinary literati, ordinary people, have no ability and time to appreciate; They prefer strip-shaped loose tea made with new technology. When Zhu Yuanzhang's world was stable, in September of the twenty-fourth year of Hongwu, the Dragon and Phoenix tea group became the swan song of history! Longfeng group tea lost its admirer. In the past, tea gardens were withered. Hundreds of years have passed, and even the production process of Longfeng group tea has been lost.