In ancient China, people with status wore wide clothes and big sleeves. A pocket is sewn on the sleeve, the opening direction of the pocket is opposite to the opening direction of the sleeve, and the pocket is in the shape of a closed ladder. In this way, if you put money and letters in your pocket, even if your hands droop or bow, the contents will not fall out. It is precisely because there is always money in the sleeves that "two sleeves are clean" is used to describe the poor or honest officials who are not corrupt.
There are also some so-called "sleeve blades" and "sleeve arrows", which are knives and short arrows hidden in sleeves. The original meaning of "pocket" refers to the small and strange things hidden in the sleeve. Since the Han dynasty, the sleeves of clothes were called pipa sleeves (as if they were hanging sleeves), and the cuffs were very small, generally about the size of wrists, so you could put some small things in them. However, in ancient times, unlike TV, everyone wore wide-sleeved clothes, and only some nobles would wear them like this. The ancient people also had narrow sleeves, that is, the sleeves were straight. Please don't be misled by the current TV series. Generally, only nobles wear wide robes and big sleeves. Since you are a nobleman, there is no need to bring money. In ancient times, people with status would wear clothes with wide sleeves.
Tell me something that many people have experienced. Playing mobile phones secretly at school. Seeing the teacher coming, I immediately poked my mobile phone into the sleeve of my school uniform with my finger. The sleeves of school uniforms are generally elastic, and the cuffs are much smaller than the sleeves, so even if I stand in front of the teacher, the mobile phone in the sleeves will not fall off.
And the ancients' "dry Kun in the sleeve" is probably this principle. First of all, let's look at the basic styles of wide-sleeved robes:
As shown in the above picture, although the sleeves of ancient robes look very wide and heavy, the cuffs are very narrow, only a few centimeters, just like our elastic cuffs now.
The sleeves are very wide, so even if you put something in the sleeves, when you stand down, as long as your upper arm does not exceed the horizontal line, the things in the sleeves will hang down and look bulging. So, in fact, there are no pockets in the sleeves. The sleeve itself is a big pocket. This kind of sleeve is usually called "Pipa sleeve, hanging beard sleeve".
The proverb "two sleeves are like cloth bags" about this kind of clothing in Ming Dynasty can be said to be very vivid.
Since the cuffs are so narrow, how can I put things in? This is the origin of the word "pregnant" on the chest of two skirts that intersect with the pockets on the belt. Put your hands here, put things in and take things out. When the right hand takes something from the left sleeve, it is behind the left elbow, so "behind the elbow" is where the pocket exists.
One of the works handed down from ancient times in traditional Chinese medicine is called Elbow Backup Emergency Prescription, which was compiled by Ge Hong, a medical scientist in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, after widely collecting prescriptions for treating common diseases circulated among the people at that time. The word "Elbow Queen" in the title is easy to understand.
Of course, many ancient people didn't put things in their sleeves, and they didn't have the light black pockets with iron teeth and copper teeth in the TV series Ji Xiaolan. Most of the clothes worn by ordinary people are narrow sleeves, and the cuffs and sleeves are relatively slim. In order to show their identity, dignitaries developed wide-sleeved robes.
Many of them are worn for formal occasions, such as the legendary "wide-sleeved fairy skirt" in "Fairy Sword III". You can't say "dry Kun in the sleeve", otherwise it will look bulging and embarrassing.
In China, we call the "small and exquisite" plaything "pocket", which means that although the sleeves are very wide, you can put things, but the things you put must be light, so we use "pocket" to summarize it. It can be said that this word is one of the special representatives of China's ideographic characters.
In the same way, it is easier to understand that "clean hands" represents honesty and integrity.
As for this kind of "hidden bag" on TV, it seems feasible to stuff things through the cuffs by hand, but the existing unearthed cultural relics are almost unheard of. Can't say no, but there is no real hammer.
China ancient clothes had no pockets, but not everything was put in the sleeves. Sometimes they are stuffed into a belt or hung in a wallet, or put in the skirt on the chest, and sometimes they are wrapped around the back. If you are a nobleman, just let the servant take it back. Why bother yourself? This kind of situation of putting things in the sleeve mostly happens in important occasions like the court. After all, everyone has a position. It is still not elegant to reach into your arms and grab things directly, and the condition for doing so is that the clothes have big sleeves, because the ancients also wore clothes with narrow sleeves.
There is a pipa sleeve in Hanfu, which is more common in Hanfu made in Ming Dynasty. Pipa sleeves are special, and the cuffs are very small, about the size of the wrist, so you can hold something.
Other clothes have a very remarkable feature-big sleeves, so there is a saying that "there are big sleeves in the city and silks everywhere". In ancient times, only literati and nobles would wear such long-sleeved clothes. Ordinary lower-class people usually wear short sleeves or pull up their sleeves because of labor. Generally speaking, the wide robes and sleeves worn by the ancients were sewn with pockets opposite to the opening direction of the cuffs. The pocket is a closed ladder shape, so it is convenient to put some silver coins, letters and other things. There are also some nouns, such as "pocket", which originally refers to the little baby hidden in the sleeve. "Clean hands" means that there is no money in the sleeve, so it is very poor. The clothes of the ancients can also hold large objects. For example, in "Stealing the Symbol to Save Zhao", Xin was killed with "Zhu Hai Sleeved 40 Jin Iron Pig" when he seized the military power. Moreover, these pockets are mostly behind elbows, not cuffs, to avoid things falling out when you lift your arms. The word "elbow back" in Ge Hong's medical book "Elbow Reserve Emergency Prescription" in the Eastern Jin Dynasty means that this book can be carried in the pocket behind the elbow. However, after the Qing dynasty entered the customs, it changed this "Hanfu".
The ancients often said that "Gan Kun is in the sleeve". Are ancient sleeves really so magical? Can cover everything? In TV series, we often see the ancients take out all kinds of strange things from their sleeves, such as imperial memorials, daggers, silver coins or some food, but only put some small and exquisite objects, such as silver tickets, so they got the title of "pocket".
Since it is a pocket for holding things, isn't it more convenient to design it outside?
Because ancient clothes are elegant and eye-catching, sewing a big pocket outside obviously has nothing to do with elegance. In addition, in the minds of the ancients, they thought that only beggars would sew patches on the outside of clothes. Originally, all the people who wore these sleeves were literati, and they certainly didn't want to let them put down their bodies to accept this external pocket.
Moreover, this kind of external pocket is also easy to attract pickpockets and be easily stolen by others. On the contrary, if these pockets are designed inside the cuffs, it will not only affect the appearance, but also enhance the privacy and safety.
So where do these little things go in the sleeve? Can't put it on the cuff, one is easy to be found, and the other is likely to fall out. This kind of pocket is usually sewn behind the elbow, and the opening direction of the pocket is just opposite to the cuff, showing a ladder shape. Theoretically, as long as your arm is not above the horizon, things will not fall out of your pocket.
It is absolutely impossible for the ancients to take out all kinds of things from the cuffs by the tricks of the protagonists in TV dramas, because although they wear wide robes and big sleeves, the cuffs are very narrow and it is quite difficult to take things from the cuffs. And quite unsightly.
So how did they put these things in and take them out? The correct way is to put your hand through your chest and hold something behind your left elbow with your right hand. This is the origin of "Huai".
Not all sleeves are sewn with pockets, such as tortoise sleeves and beard sleeves, and no pockets are needed. They are big pockets themselves. As long as the upper arm and forearm keep a certain arc, you don't have to worry about things slipping out of the cuffs.
Of course, most of these sleeves still appear in princes and nobles, while ordinary people wear narrow sleeves and coarse cloth in Take off their coats. When they need to pack something, they often take it out of their wallets, belts or bags behind them.
Only from this point can we see the gap between the rich and the poor of the ancients. Only the rich will wear some big robes and sleeves to show their identity, while the poor underclass often wear short sleeves or even shorts because of work problems. However, in ancient times, powerful people often went out with a group of servants, not to mention gorgeous clothes. Everything you need is taken care of by special servants. When you need a wallet, you don't need to take it out of the cuff. Naturally, there will be special servants to pay for the master.
Many times, the pockets in their dresses are idle, and the pockets are only auxiliary functions for them. After all, good-looking is the most practical.
Obviously, the ancients were not as comfortable as we modern people. Like what we can solve by carrying a small bag with a mobile phone on the last street, they may need to stuff things up and down, and they have to carry a lot of big bags and small bags.
Although people are inconvenient, there are many servants and people give everything, which is beyond the envy of most modern people.
This question can be divided into two parts: were the sleeves of ancient people particularly large? Can oversized sleeves be used to hold everything?
Because the characters who pull out their sleeves in TV dramas are generally Han Chinese in a broad sense, we limit the scope of "ancient people's clothes" to "Hanfu". Baidu Hanfu, the first appearance is probably the "wide robe and big sleeves, with praise" at the adult ceremony of high schools all over the country.
In fact, dragging sleeves is not the most common sleeve type in ancient Chinese clothing. Not only ordinary people can't wear it once in their lifetime, but even in the upper class, its frequency is far less than that in TV dramas.
TV series "Da Gong Ming Ci"
What choice do China people have besides dragging their sleeves? Judging from the sleeve profile of clothing in past dynasties, the changes of sleeves are mostly concentrated on the straightness of sleeve bottom line, the length of sleeve body and the width of cuffs. According to the classification method in the book Research on Ancient Chinese Costume, sleeve types can be roughly divided into wide sleeves, hanging sleeves/pipa sleeves, long sleeves/big sleeves and narrow sleeves/small sleeve.
As "Hanfu in Hanfu", deep clothes became popular from south to north around the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. Most of the early silk paintings, wooden figurines and deep clothes unearthed in Chu tombs. The most common sleeve type is not wide sleeve and big sleeve, but a relatively small "hanging sleeve" in Hanfu circle.
Silk Painting of Chu Tomb in Chenjiadashan in Warring States Period
The so-called "hanging Hu" has nothing to do with Hu people. In Shuo Wen Jie Zi, Hu is defined as "the cow's chin hangs down". Hu-hung sleeves have large sleeves, tight cuffs and narrow underarms, which are shaped like leather folds hanging down from a cow's neck.
This kind of sleeve shape not only belongs to the Chu place where "lotus makes clothes", but also continued to be popular in the Han Dynasty until the Qing Dynasty, and it is a common element in Han costumes.
The "beard" on the neck of a cow
As for whether the hanging Hu sleeve and the pipa sleeve are the same sleeve shape, the academic community has not yet reached a conclusion. Although the tailoring of "Pipa Sleeves" after the Ming Dynasty is slightly different from the cultural relics of Chu Tomb, on the whole, the shape of small sleeve with big sleeves has not changed much.
Other sleeve types, wide sleeves are characterized by short sleeves and wide cuffs, and are generally used for dresses in upper-class society; The sleeve body of the big sleeve/long sleeve is extremely long, and the bottom line of the sleeve is curved, so that the sleeve can touch the ground when the hands are drooping; Narrow sleeves/small sleeve are mainly for convenience, and other clothes are generally covered outside.
Baoyu's "Qiu Xiangse sets python and white fox's axil arrow sleeve"
Upper-class society is not as wide as cuffs, and it is even more impossible for ordinary people to wear wide robes and big sleeves that waste cloth and are heavy. Therefore, the sleeves of ancient people's clothes are particularly large, which is obviously wrong.
People in that costume drama often take things out of their sleeves. Are they all fake? Not really, this is based on the description of classical novels.
In the 27th episode of A Dream of Red Mansions, Baochai "takes a fan from the sleeve" when she pats a butterfly. In the 37th chapter of the Water Margin, Song Jiang met Dai Zong, and Song handed the book to Wu Yong. "The man opened the cover, read it from the beginning and hid it in his sleeve"; Even when Xin stole the charm to save Zhao, he had to rely on his sleeve to save people: the butcher "Zhu Hai" had 40 kilograms of iron spine on his sleeve and was crushed to death. This son will be promoted to the army. "
Treasure butterfly
Except for small sleeve, who obviously can't hold anything, there are probably things in the sleeves, as well as wide sleeves, big sleeves and hanging sleeves.
The special sleeve shape of the beard cover can obviously accommodate small objects such as sachets, handkerchiefs and pennies. As for wide sleeves and big sleeves, if you want to put things in, you must put a secret bag. Judging from the cultural relics unearthed at present, there are no hidden pockets sewn in the sleeves with large openings.
However, when people wear long-sleeved clothes, it is impossible to expose their arms inside. Adding a coat with a beard and a sleeve inside the coat can make things hidden in the sleeve again.
Lower half seal
There is also a kind of sleeve. The surface of the cuff looks very wide, but actually the opening is not much bigger than the wrist, and the other parts are sewn. This design also appears in kimonos. If you force things into it, the capacity is really enough. You just want to take it out the same way, and it is inevitable that you will scratch your head.
But for the sake of beauty and convenience, what can be put in the sleeve is extremely limited, neither too heavy nor too big. As for taking out a silver ingot? Unless you want to buy the whole inn, there is no chance to spend so much money in ancient life.
It is said that ancient people are very traditional and thought they would be more conservative, but they are not. Ancient relatives are also very fashionable, very fashionable. Take this sleeve where you can hide things.
Take Hanfu as an example. They have many kinds of clothes and sleeves.
A long and big dress
This kind of sleeve is what we see most on TV. Then these sleeves are so wide that nothing can fit in. However, it is difficult for industrious and intelligent people to sew a bag with an inward opening so that they can use things.
Pipa sleeve
This kind of sleeve is called pipa sleeve because its sleeves are large and small, and the axils are very narrow, much like pipa. Well, this can hide a lot of things directly, because it has a convergent mouth.
Beard hanging sleeve
This sleeve is a bit like the pipa sleeve in front, but the sleeve is big, but the cuff is small. Then this can also hide things directly.
There is also narrow straight sleeves, with which you can't hide things.
Is it possible to hide things and put everything in? Of course not. Think about it. Put a few taels of silver in your sleeve, and you won't have to pick up bricks in a fight. You can shake your sleeve and make people dizzy. In general, there will be some small and expensive items on the sleeve, such as gold jewelry, documents and so on.
Just like some big items, they are usually placed on the chest. In ancient clothes, two lapels would intersect at the chest, so there would be a pocket-like space after the belt was tied, and this would be used to put some big items.
The ancients also made some wallets to hold money and hung them around their waists. Therefore, those thieves who steal from others while watching TV are all bumping into people and stealing wallets hanging around their waist.
As for the question whether the things hidden in the sleeve will fall off, they will not fall off under normal circumstances, but no one can guarantee foolproof. Didn't Zhang Song in The Romance of the Three Kingdoms lose his life because he lost his heart and the letter in his sleeve?
Anyone who likes watching costume TV shows knows that when paying or taking something, people will suddenly take it out of their sleeves, like magic, and sleeves are like a treasure chest, and everything can be put in them. So, can ancient people really put things on their sleeves? In ancient China, people with status wore wide clothes and big sleeves. A pocket is sewn on the sleeve, the opening direction of the pocket is opposite to the opening direction of the sleeve, and the pocket is in the shape of a closed ladder. In this way, if you put money and letters in your pocket, even if your hands droop or bow, the contents will not fall out. It is precisely because there is always money in the sleeves that "two sleeves are clean" is used to describe the poor or honest officials who are not corrupt.
There are also some so-called "sleeve blades" and "sleeve arrows", which are knives and short arrows hidden in sleeves. The original meaning of "pocket" refers to the small and strange things hidden in the sleeve. Since the Han dynasty, the sleeves of clothes were called pipa sleeves (as if they were hanging sleeves), and the cuffs were very small, generally about the size of wrists, so you could put some small things in them. However, in ancient times, unlike TV, everyone wore wide-sleeved clothes, and only some nobles would wear them like this.
The ancient people also had narrow sleeves, that is, the sleeves were straight. Please don't be misled by the current TV series. Generally, only nobles wear wide robes and big sleeves. Since you are a nobleman, there is no need to bring money. In ancient times, people with status would wear clothes with wide sleeves.
Hanfu, the full name is "the traditional costume of the Han nationality", also known as Hanfu, Huafu and Huafu. From the accession of the Yellow Emperor to the mid-Kloc-0/7th century (late Ming and early Qing Dynasty), in the main residential areas of the Han nationality, with the "Huaxia-Han" culture as the background and the Chinese etiquette culture as the core, through natural evolution, a unique Han personality was formed, which was obviously different from other nationalities. It is the embodiment of China's "country of clothes", "country of etiquette", "country of splendid china" and "country of Cyrus", bearing the excellent craftsmanship and aesthetics of the Han nationality, and inheriting more than 30 Chinese intangible cultural heritages and protected China arts and crafts. Similar to the word "Han", the extension of the word "Han" in Hanfu has also expanded from the Han Dynasty to the whole national reference. Hanfu "began in Huangdi and was prepared in Yaoshun", which originated from the coronation made by Huangdi.
Stereotyped in the Zhou Dynasty, and after the Han Dynasty, based on the Four Books and Five Classics, it formed a complete robe and costume system and became a part of Shinto. Therefore, China's later dynasties lived in the Zhou Dynasty and the French and Han Dynasties, and it was a national event to inherit the mantle of the Han Dynasty, which led to the ambition of Yu Dafu in the Twenty-four History. "The Yellow Emperor and Yao Shun govern the world by hanging down their clothes, which benefits from Gan Kun", which means that the shape of the petticoat under their clothes is determined by God's will and sacred. Hanfu has also influenced the whole Chinese cultural circle through the Huaxia legal system, and some ethnic groups in Asian countries, such as Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Mongolia and Bhutan, have or learn from the characteristics of Hanfu.
Welcome to open the historical treasure.
There is a word called "remain uncorrupted" to describe incorruptibility.
What is the relationship between honesty and sleeves? This is really important.
Therefore, the word "clean hands" to describe people's incorruptibility is still very vivid.
The sleeves of the ancients were not small, as above, they were the coronation clothes of the Han Dynasty, and the sleeves were super large.
With such large sleeves, it is very inconvenient to work, so these clothes are worn by "meat eaters" who don't have to do manual work. The real working people are well dressed.
Such a big sleeve has a function-things are put inside the sleeve.
That sleeve is so wide, will it fall out?
To solve this problem, you have to go to the door where you put things in your sleeve.
In addition to this sleeve bag, you can also put some small things, and the ancients can also make small purses, which are also very particular.
If it is a large amount of metal money, it is a little inconvenient to put it in the sleeve pocket, and there will be a bag specially hung on the waist, so it is also called "travelling expenses".
This is a poem written by Yu Qian in the Four Qualities in Ming Dynasty. Go to Beijing. " He went from the local government to the capital Beijing as an official, demanding that he "remain uncorrupted", which means not to take bribes. This involves the problem of ancient people's clothing, that is, why did ancient officials put things in their sleeves?
Ancient people's clothes were still graded, generally divided into bureaucrats and gentry, with wide robes and big sleeves, and they were personable and did not need to do rough work. This dress is very comfortable and uses a lot of cloth. There were no pockets for clothes at that time. This kind of clothing has wide sleeves and tight cuffs, which naturally form dry sleeves. Some people use cloth to reinforce this part, or sew a small pocket, which can hold silver tickets, a small amount of silver, lighter items and letters. Heavy money is usually hung around the waist with a wallet, mainly for convenience.
Officials usually put money and goods in their sleeves after accepting bribes. As long as they pay a little attention to observation, they can know whether they have received the money. The people's eyes are discerning. (The styles of sleeves in past dynasties are for reference only)
Ordinary people, tight-fitting short-sleeved clothes. Ordinary people want to do practical things, but they can't do it with wide robes and big sleeves. Besides, they waste a lot of cloth, which most people can't afford. Ordinary people's clothes also have no pockets. The whole clothes are covered on the right side, and then tied with a belt. The loose items you carry can be put in your arms. If you have too many things, use baggage. (photos of ordinary people wearing clothes)
The Hanfu we usually admire is the clothes of bureaucrats and gentry at that time, not the clothes of ordinary people.
Do you still remember that in ancient operas and novels, beautiful girls embroidered purses for their lovers?
What's this wallet for? Put the phone through? Wallet, or household registration book and glasses? These things were rare in ancient times! Yes, there were no mobile phones and glasses in ancient times, but when the ancients went out, there were also a bunch of "chores" that the ancients had to bring.
The most important thing is to go out with the money! In ancient times, money was mainly coins: copper coins and silver coins, which were difficult to help. They are not uniform in shape, so they can't be put in today's flat wallets, but only in bags made of cowhide or deerskin. As soon as the rope at the mouth of the bag is put, a trick bag is an ancient wallet.
I used to take a few silver dollars out, which was a bit heavy and inconvenient. If you put it in your sleeve and it crackles all the way, passers-by will think he is rich when they hear the silver whistling in his sleeve! The ancients walked with their hands swinging (Homo erectus walked with his arms swinging, but the robot of 1.0 version didn't) and accidentally threw the silver out!
Think about it. There are many ways to design modern clothes. For example, the whole body is nailed with pockets, from the chest to the bottom, there are a pair of eggs on each side, and there are even a few small pockets on both shoulders. Who can put a pocket on the cuff? Obviously inconvenient (this is the same as the uneasy pocket on your back)!
What is the name of the pocket? Call the wallet! For example, please take out your wallet-taking out your wallet means taking out your pocket.
But ancient wallets are not today's pockets. The purse used by the ancients is today's handbag, which contains some small things, such as scattered silver coins, love letters and other urgent things The wallet is either hung on your waist or put in your arms (inner pocket).
In addition to silver and copper coins, there are some larger sundries, such as account books, books, famous letters, Four Treasures of the Study, etc., as well as special schoolbags and boxes (small wooden cases). The ancients had great style, and these sundries were kept by special attendants (servants) If you can't afford a servant, you can put it on yourself or in your wallet.
Wallet is a big bag commonly used by ancient people when they go out. It is not worn on the shoulders like modern satchels in some TV dramas, but placed on the shoulders or backs of horses and donkeys. It has buttons and loops to prevent things from falling out, and it can hold many things inside.
Finally, a brief talk about sleeves, ancient clothes, if you attend important events, the dresses you wear are generally larger and the sleeves look good! In daily life, it is generally small sleeve. For example, the arrow sleeves, which are popular in the Ming Dynasty, are all narrow-body small sleeve, all for the convenience of life.
The ancients could tell their status from their clothes. People with a little status wear robes, while "workers" wear short coats. Kong Yiji is so poor that the only thing that can survive is a gown. However, robes are also narrow sleeves. Why? Only narrow sleeves are convenient, just like eating vegetables without leaving clothes in the bowl. It's annoying!
It can be said that the width of ancient people's sleeves is directly proportional to the amount of work they do. If you don't have to work, the sleeves will be wider (but not too wide, at most a palm wide). Every day, the hard-working old brothers rolled up their sleeves and worked all day, wishing them relief!
Nothing can fit in a narrow sleeve unless you put a handkerchief in it and take it out from time to time to blow your nose. Hum! Hum! (Hu Dan/Emperor doesn't call me)