When I first arrived in Zhanggaozhai, the sky was clear in Wan Li.

Shaxi Township, where Zhanggaozhai is located, is one of the most remote towns in Lichuan City, located at the foot of Lei Yin Mountain at the junction with Xianfeng County.

When I first heard the name "Zhanggaozhai", I couldn't help thinking that it was an ancient village named Zhang, located on a high mountain. After consulting the information, I know that "Zhang Gao" is a name. It is said that Zhang Gao was the first person to settle here. He is a famous "good man" for his generosity in building houses and bridges. At that time, there was no place name here, so it was named "Zhanggaozhai" after people.

A neat tea garden at the entrance of the village.

The prosperity of the past has become a memory

Today's Zhanggaozhai, belonging to the bustling village of Shaxi Township, Lichuan City, is 40 kilometers away from the urban area of Lichuan. It consists of more than 40 diaojiao buildings and lives in more than 70 families.

Visiting the ancient village for the first time is a bit embarrassing. Fortunately, WeChat is convenient and the villagers are simple. After a while, I contacted Yao Youbing, the village party secretary. Secretary Yao made a positioning, and the car came to the village along the winding mountain road.

Turning from the prosperous village Committee into the country road, gradually, there are more tea fields. A Qingxi flows down the mountain, and the tea garden is beside it. The tea garden is surrounded by fruit trees. You can imagine the scenery here when the new tea is green and the peaches and plums are fragrant in spring.

Tea is the main industry of villagers.

Diaojiaolou is hidden between the tea garden and the mountains. From the appearance, the houses in Zhanggaozhai are slightly different from those in Xuanen and Laifeng, but they are all built along the slope according to the terrain, and most of them are "walking corner buildings" with upturned cornices.

The village is very quiet, so quiet that you can hear the rustling of tea farmers picking tea. Before coming to a wooden diaojiao building, Secretary Yao said, "This is the home of the old secretary in the village." The old secretary pointed to the sign on the outer wall and looked radiant: "China ethnic minority village named by the State Ethnic Affairs Commission." Originally, 20 1 1 was named as a village with ethnic characteristics by Enshi, and 20 13 was included in the second batch of "traditional villages in China".

Dozens of diaojiao buildings are dotted between tea gardens and green hills.

The 68-year-old secretary is tall and full of energy. Under some summons, several enthusiastic villagers also came to give us a free tour guide. A group of six people stepped onto the water, strolled along the ancient road and counted the history.

The old secretary said that this is the only way for Sichuan Salt to go out of the province, and it is called "Ba Salt Ancient Road". In those days, people who sold salt, cloth, opium, mountain products and "second-hand" walked through the high Lei Yin Mountain and always stopped here to catch their breath.

Over time, people from all over the world will rest for one night when they come here, and then climb mountains and mountains the next day to continue their next trip. As a result, people in Zhanggaozhai built the "Bayan Temple" on the side of the ancient road. Maodianzi, Hengdianzi, Chuanxin Store, Bayan Store ... There are as many as ten inns in a small village. Thanks to the ancient road, the stockade was prosperous for a while, and when the salt road was busiest, it was enough to kill five or six pigs a day in the stockade!

Go up the mountain stream and come to a fork in the road. One road goes down to the river ditch; An upward path is the ancient salt road. Seeing the quiet and charming mountain stream, I did not hesitate to take the river ditch first, and then the ancient salt road on the slope.

The villagers' names are random, and the stream next to Zhanggaozhai is called Zhanggaohe. Legend has it that Zhang Gao, the ancestor who built a house to provide room and board for his husband and built bayonets to resist bandits, has no details about the final destination, leaving only these two names and the legend of the villagers.

In fact, it doesn't matter who the surname is. Mountains are mountains and water is water. I saw this blue stream flowing quietly between the stones, and the clean stone walls were marked one after another by the years. In the bright sunshine, it shines with dazzling light.

Where can I find such clean water? Where can I find such a free stream?

Running water left traces of years on the stone wall.

You Quan Yi Road Surprise

It is the season when mountain flowers are in full bloom, and the stream is full of vitality. All the way upstream, from time to time there are petals slowly downstream.

My peers are lovers of exotic flowers and plants, and they constantly use the mobile App to "sweep" and learn about every plant of interest-broad bean, Euphorbia humifusa, buttercup, shrew, iris, magnolia grandiflora ... I saw a pile of grass as big as a washbasin, with serrated leaves and thorns lying by the water, which made me uncomfortable at first glance. Before we could explore the mystery, the old secretary quickly stopped: "Don't touch it, that's an immoral bitch!" " "Sure enough, grass as the name implies! You can imagine the pain of being bitten by this evil thing.

The most surprising thing is to see Tang Dihua in The Book of Songs.

The first time I saw Tang Di, the egg-yellow flowers hung down from the long vines and swayed on the water. "Flower Mirror" said: "The leaves are like tea mushrooms, the edges are like sawtooth, the color is golden, and it is round like a ball. The beauty is that there is no moth. " The famous Li Yishan also wrote in his "Send Luo Shaoxing": "Tang Di blossoms, but I forget the green leaves."

Tang Dihua. (Source Network)

When Tang Di was mentioned in the Tang and Song Dynasties, people naturally thought of brotherhood. The connection between the two can be traced back to the Book of Songs Xiaoya Emperor in the pre-Qin period: "The emperor is a flower, Hubei is not, and today people are like brothers." The "long dike" here is Tangdi, and the translated poem means: Tangdi flowers are open, beautiful and bright, and are the closest brothers in the world today. The relationship between Tang Di and his brothers began with the comparison of this poem.

The ancients believed that the petals of Tang Di-hua were calyx, which was used to protect against wind, rain and scorching sun, and the calyx effectively held up the petals, which was a typical portrayal of brothers helping each other. In fact, there are countless plants with petals and calyx, but people just choose Tang Di.

In a word, Tang Di's petals are scattered, leaving only the calyx to prop up nothingness, which is extremely sad in the eyes of the ancients, meaning that brothers are scattered. Therefore, people often use "Di Calyx" to express the brotherhood between men.

Gao Pian, a famous soldier in the late Tang Dynasty, not only fought in the battlefield, but also wrote frontier poems. "Di calyx points a messenger, how many tears wet clothes. Before the snoring is broken, thousands of Li Hu skybirds will not fly. " This song "Send Brother to Shanzhai" is a metaphor for a brother who is far away from the world with Di Calyx.

The ancient stone steps tell the story of the past prosperity.

Legendary stories tell history.

Walking along the mountain stream is a surprise all the way, but for a few minutes, I seem to hear the sound of a waterfall. The hale and hearty old secretary led us to a path on the right slope, which leads to the Leiyin Temple on the top of the mountain in Lei Yin on the left, specially built for pilgrims to make pilgrimages. On the pass, a silver waterfall flies out of the bushes on the left.

The waterfall has three floors. This is the third floor. Do you want to go up?

Of course I'm going!

After walking for dozens of meters, I came to a small pool. I saw the shade of trees, like curtains, hiding the small pool, and the golden sunshine squeezed in from the leaves and cast it on the edge of the pool. The pool is clear, the water is murmuring and the birds are singing. It seems that there is only one fairy who takes a bath missing, and she has entered a fairy tale.

A quiet stream sounds like a fairyland.

Further up are Lei Yin Mountain, Bijia Mountain, Moon Rock, and Carmen who once resisted the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom led by Shi Dakai. There are primitive temples and wells on Lei Yin Mountain.

Colleague Lao Wu said that his grandfather found Shi Wa in the well, and as a result, he caught one after another and jumped out, and one after another surfaced. He was so scared that he quickly released the string of frogs he caught and fled down the mountain:

This is a warning from the Bodhisattva! Don't be greedy!

I heard that it would take two days to walk through Lei Yin Mountain. I was so scared that I was weak at once and said, "Forget it, leave a thought." Go back and continue to walk back to the ancient road. This ancient road winds under a rock wall, and the old township party secretary said, pointing to the high rock wall with branches:

There are flowers on the stones here, and generations don't know what they are.

Carefully identify, the traces of chrysanthemum-like blooming on sandstone come and go, mysterious. Later, I went back to the city to take photos, and asked Xing Lida, a professor at China Geo University, to know that it was a bug trace, a trace fossil left by prehistoric creatures.

The old secretary said that the Red Army led by General He Long used to go in and out here because it was the only way to enter Sichuan. One day, two Red Army soldiers, tortured by hunger, went out to steal chickens at night. He knew that they had been executed long before they started eating them. Up to now, there is still the tomb of the Red Army in the village to record this history.

There are natural customs of green mountains and green waters, historical details of Bayan ancient road and touching red stories ... This ancient stockade, like a secluded paradise, quietly waits for everyone who is curious about it.

A diaojiao building hidden in the Woods.

Interview notes

The beauty of an ancient village lies in its original ecological natural environment. The magic of ancient villages lies in the legendary story of Bayan ancient road. The green mountains and green waters, like a rough jade, have never been known to outsiders.

In recent years, with the improvement of transportation and other infrastructure, the distance from this remote ancient village to the urban area has been shortened to more than one hour's drive, which is fully qualified to become a "back garden" for people to explore the past on foot.

Source: Enshi Daily

Editor | Li Xuyi

Trial | Hu Chengtong

Audit | Zou Yu

Gudao (2) Secretary (2) Cousin (1)