Analysis:
Women's hairstyles in China are varied, and no one can tell exactly how many. Ancient hair; Women's "falling bun" in Han Dynasty; Women's "cross bun" in the Northern Dynasties; Women's "snake bun" and "flying bun" in Tang Dynasty; "Chaotian bun" and "Tongxin bun" of women in Song Dynasty were quite popular hairstyles in related dynasties. There are many hairstyles for minority women, such as the "peacock bun" of Dai women; There is a "chopping block bun" for Beijing women; She women's "wind-burning makeup"; There are Miao women's "one-horned bun"; Manchu women have "two heads". There are as many as seven or eight kinds of female bodies in the Tu nationality, such as "three-pronged head", "dry grain head", "bee head" and "winnowing head". But the oldest and most common ones are poncho, braided hair and dished hair. Until modern times, these three hairstyles are still quite popular. Many ethnic women also have the custom of shaving their heads, which can be said to be the most unique hairstyle among many hairstyles.
1. fapi
It can be said that wearing hair is the earliest hairstyle of human beings. At the beginning of life, people always wear hair. At that time, the hair was not beautiful, and people all knew that the hair that was combed smoothly would give people a neat feeling.
There are two forms of hair hanging, one is to let the hair hang naturally and tie a hair band around the forehead and back of the head; The other is to cut the top hair at the front into short hair like the forehead. Wearing a hair band and cutting your hair short are all to prevent your hair from becoming dazzling.
There is a jade statue of a businesswoman in the Palace Museum, with long hair shawl and a hair tie, and the back of the head is decorated with a pair of feather pins, which embodies the hairstyle of a businesswoman. Women in the Zhou Dynasty were still in full swing, letting them fly with the wind. Book of Songs. Xiaoya. There is a saying in Du Ren: "Hair has a flag". In ancient times, it was more common for minority women to wear long hair shawls. "Wang Zhi" said: "The East became a foreign country and was tattooed. In the southwest, I was skinned ... "Zhou Shu. Turkic legend: "Uman ... man's bun, woman's hair ..." Yu Qingyuan's Wei Xi Lu Wenjian: "Angry son ... men's and women's hair ...". Nowadays, the Wa nationality's filigree girl hair band has a blue silk floating head in the powder to make it beautiful.
Short hair cutting, called "broken hair" in ancient times, appeared as early as the Neolithic Age. Painted pottery head bottles at the entrance of Yangshao Cultural Temple in the trench period were unearthed in Dadiwan, Qin 'an, Gansu Province. There was a head in the mouth and hair on the top of it. The hair at the back is neck-length and obviously broken. This object has a history of 5,000 years. A Neolithic painted portrait pottery pot unearthed in Liuwan, Qinghai, with a long hair shawl at the back of the head; The top of the forehead is also short hair. Broken hair was popular in ancient southern China. Han Yi. Geography records the thorn hair of the Yue people. Huainanzi There is also a record in "Mourning Custom Training": "People are getting more and more"; Yunnan tongzhi draft In the illustration of Nan Man Zhi, Wu Man's hairstyle is that her forehead is short and her hair at the back of her head hangs over her shoulders. At present, Dulong women and Barrow women still have the custom of "breaking hair".
Braided hair
There are many ethnic women who still wear braids, some of which are customs handed down from ancient times; Some of them are combed out after being influenced by ethnic groups.
China has a long history of combing women's hair. With the appearance of human aesthetic consciousness, people in the Neolithic age began to comb their messy hair, and some even cut off their long hair. Some are tied with hair bands; Others braid their hair. On the Neolithic painted pottery basin in Shangsunjiazhai, Datong County, Qinghai Province, there is a scene where everyone steps on a song hand in hand, and everyone has a braid hanging on his head.
Although it is simply made up, there is indeed some knowledge in it. Different combs and different numbers of braided hair are not only used to compare beauty, but also often used as a symbol to distinguish girls, adult girls and daughter-in-law.
Braid hairstyle mainly includes:
Single braid: From the Neolithic Age to the Han Dynasty, it was very popular to wear a braid on the top of the head. The singers on the painted pottery basin in Shangsunjiazhai all have this hairstyle; A kneeling jade statue unearthed from Yin Ruins in Henan Province has the same hairstyle as that of a singer, with all the hair combed on the top of his head and braided. There are braided figures on bronze pots unearthed in Baihuatan, Chengdu, Sichuan, and on rock paintings in Zuojiang, Guangxi. There is also a single braid combing method, which combs the hair at the back of the head near the neck into braids. This hairstyle is mainly popular among Han, Manchu, Korean, Mongolian, Hezhe, Brown Ur and Sherpa.
Double braid: Double braid can be combed on both sides of the top of the head and at the roots of both ears. There are more figures painted on cliffs in Guangxi than double braids on the top of the head. The bronze statue of a bird-keeper in Jincun, Luoyang, and the portrait of a woman with double braids on the bronze shell cover unearthed in Shizhai Mountain, Jinning, Yunnan, all have double braids at the roots of their ears. The double braiding hairstyle on ears is very popular among women of Han nationality, some ethnic groups in Xinjiang, Nu nationality, Yi nationality, Tu nationality, Hezhe nationality, Mongolian nationality and Daur nationality. Tibetan and Ewenki women also have a hobby, that is, they weave multiple braids into two big braid. Ewenki girls wear eight braids, and when they get married, an elderly woman will combine the eight braids and give them to her. The method of combing is to comb the hair into eight braids, then divide the eight braids into two halves, four on the left and four on the right. Tie the four braids together with colored string near the root of the braid until the middle and lower section of the braid, and then spread all the four braids to form a big braid. Two braids should be covered with two pieces of black cloth after marriage.
Three braids: In the rock paintings in Guangxi, people with three braids can be seen. Today, the "three braids" hairstyle is popular among the Tu, Tibetan and Yugur nationalities in Yunnan. When Yugur girls get married, they comb their hair into many pigtails, then divide the pigtails into three equal parts and make up three big braid, two of which hang down on their chests. One hangs down and puts it behind your back, and then puts a red ball on your braid. Usually, women don't wear hair covers, but use colored threads to connect the first two braids to their chests.
Multi-braid style: There are many ethnic groups with multiple braids, including various ethnic groups in Xinjiang, Tibetans, Ewenki, Yugur and so on. Naxi and Bagan women also have the custom of wearing multiple braids. According to ancient records, Naxi women "have a hundred strands of hair"; Pumi women "weave their hair into thin hair bundles and put them behind their heads ...". Tibetan women in Labrang, southern Gansu Province, have a unique multi-braid combing method. It divides the hair into two parts from the top of the head, the upper part is combed with a pigtail, and the lower part is combed with many pigtails. The more, the better, and some are nearly a hundred. This hairstyle usually needs three people to help comb it for nearly an hour or two, so it won't move for months once combed. * * * Er girl's braids are not only beautiful in many ways, but also beautiful in long braids, some of which can grow to the heel.
Braid ring: Braid ring is to wrap one or two big braid around your head to form a ring. The ethnic groups that still wear braided rings include Yi, Yi, Buyi, Tibetan, Mongolian, Menba, Bai and Pumi who live in Yunnan. * * * Tibetan women in the autonomous region divide their hair into two bundles, comb them into two big braid close to their ears, which are mixed with colorful wool, and then cross each other and wrap them in circles until they reach the top of their heads. After the hairstyle is combed, it feels like wearing a bright wreath, which is very beautiful. Pumi girls are beautiful because of their thick braids, so they often use yak tails or silk threads as wigs, which are mixed with braids and wound into braids.
Changing the style of braiding can be used as a sign of all stages of life. Changing hair style is intended to restrain behavior. Once a woman changes her hairstyle, her words and deeds must conform to her status.
Yi women have the custom of changing their hair styles to show their adulthood. The original single braid in the hairstyle is changed into double braids, which cross each other from the back neck to the top of the head to form a braid ring.
Girls of Buryat, Ewenki and Xinjiang nationalities have carefully combed their braids before marriage, and most of them are beautiful. Some girls have as many as 100 braids. You need the help of others when combing, and you can finish it in an hour or two. After marriage, women's braids are much simpler. Generally, they only wear two braids. The purpose of changing their hair styles is to remind themselves that they are married and can't attract other members of the opposite sex. In addition, women have to shoulder the burden of housework and raising children after marriage, and have no time and energy to dress themselves up. Although the hair styles of Manchu girls and Korean girls are simple, they are full of youthful vitality with a thick braid with a red head rope. After the girl got married, big braid changed it into a bun to show her stability and maturity.
Tie a bun
A bun is a bun made by putting the hair together and winding it around the top of the head, the side of the head or the back of the head. The cone-shaped bun is also called "cone bun", the spiral bun is called "spiral bun" and the smaller bun is called "bun".
From the Neolithic hairpin phenomenon unearthed in various places, we can know that primitive ancestors who lived five or six thousand years ago had already done it on the bun. Women of Han nationality in China have always liked to wear their hair in a bun. In Anyang, Henan Province, there are Shang Dynasty women figurines with dished heads. The woman on the silk painting unearthed from the Chu tomb in Chenjiadashan, Changsha, Hunan, combs her spine behind her head. Women's hairstyles on silk paintings unearthed from No.1 Han Tomb of Mawangdui in Changsha, Hunan Province, and women's wooden figurines unearthed are all bun. Women's bun in Sui Dynasty is called "wandering bun". In the Tang Dynasty, women still wore a bun. Many women in the murals of Princess Yongtai's tomb, as well as the women in the silk paintings unearthed from the Tang Tomb at Astana 187 in Turpan, Xinjiang, all wear hair bun. Women in Qing Dynasty tied their hair behind their heads. In the past, Han girls had more buns than the sides of their heads.
It has always been common for minority women to comb their hair in a bun. In ancient books, there are "three wonderful hands" and "Wu Man" ... men and women bun ... ". The records of the residents of Liangshan, Sichuan Province on the custom of "bending their knees and stepping on their feet" ... During the Western Han Dynasty, the female image on the lid of Yunnan bronze shellfish container was unearthed in Shizhai Mountain, Jinning, Yunnan. There are many people who comb buns, and bronze dancers unearthed here are also distributed on them. Rock paintings in Guangxi, Guizhou, Sichuan and other places have figures with combs and buns; There are many female images in the illustrations of Yunnan Tongzhi Draft in Qing Dynasty. In the past, Manchu aristocratic women used to tie a bun after marriage, which was called "Ertou", "Fork Head" and "Ruyi Head". Comb method is to divide the hair into two parts, one part hangs behind the head and combs it into a dovetail bun, commonly known as "swallow's head", the other part lifts the top of the head, twists it into strands, rolls it into a flat long bun and covers it on the top of the head, and then inserts a hairpin called "Dafang" between the buns, which is not only for decoration but also for fixing the hair.
Manchu, Korean, Dai, Miao, Jinuo, Dong, Li, Gelao and some ethnic groups in Xinjiang are still married. And each has its own style. Dong women like to comb the bun to their left ear, covering almost the whole ear; Local Li women usually tie their hair behind their heads and let it hang over their shoulders naturally. Dai women wear their long hair loosely over their heads or on one side, and then comb it into a dish. Many people will also take out a hair tip for decoration. Miao women in the border area of northeast Yunnan and northwest Guizhou have a kind of curly hair called big head. It is very strange that a wig is wound around the top of the head in a huge bun, and then a hairpin is placed horizontally to fix the wig. Hairpins are tied with cloth belts, and wigs are hung loosely on the top of the head to cover the ears and shoulders.
Shave off one's hair
Throughout the ages, people have always thought that women's hair is as beautiful as a cloud. As we all know, there are still some ethnic groups in the world who regard female baldness as beauty. Many ethnic groups in our country also have the custom of female shaving. Shaving is also called beard. In the old days, Manchu girls left a pinch of hair at the back of their heads, braided it at the back of their heads, and shaved all the rest until they reached adulthood. According to Korean custom, girls should comb their ears with short hair and shave their necks before they are underage.
The Lahu people who live in Shuangjiang County, Yunnan Province, China, take shaving their heads as a sign of being married, so all married women shave their heads. It is said that the original reason for local women to shave their heads is to facilitate hunting. Lahu people used to be a hunting nation, especially good at hunting fierce beasts. There, hunting is not only for men, but also for women. Over the clouds, women have pigtails, and when hunting, they often encounter things caught by wild animals. For the sake of safety, men shave all their hair, while women shave all except a handful of hair on their heads, which has become a custom for a long time. Lahu women in Bakadang and Hekai villages in Menghai County, Yunnan Province think that shaving heads is beautiful and neat, and girls to elderly women shave their heads here.
In the past, women in Hong De 'ang and Hua De 'ang of De 'ang nationality also had a hobby of shaving their heads, especially unmarried girls, all of whom took baldness as beauty. De 'ang women in mangshi shave their hair near their foreheads, and braid the hair at the back of their heads and wrap it around their heads. The custom of shaving heads was once popular among Yao women Jin Xiu and Miao women Pan Tou Miao.
Just as the Mediterranean civilization spread outward under the impetus of the Roman Empire, Chinese culture, which dominates East Asian civilization, is heading for the first peak. In 22 1 BC, Ying Zheng, the first emperor of Qin Dynasty, wiped out the heroes, ended the separatist regime in the Warring States and established a unified feudal dynasty. 15 years later, Liu bang established a more stable and powerful Han empire on this basis. Political stability has brought about economic development and cultural prosperity. As early as the pre-Qin period, the basic framework of Chinese civilization had been laid, but due to the separatist regime, the regional characteristics were more obvious. Qin and Han dynasties were unified and centralized, which suppressed the "differences" in material life. Since then, although local culture still has its own characteristics, unity has occupied a dominant position.
In terms of clothing styles, since the pre-Qin period, Chinese people have generally formed a pattern of clothes under their clothes and adult men and women wearing buns. The preference of the monarch and the style of the court have a great leading role in the variation of the atmosphere. King Chu Ling admired the thin waist, and girls in middle schools followed suit after hearing about it, so that some girls starved to death because of food. The unification of politics and culture makes this habit more and more unabated, which runs through the whole ancient society and becomes one of the main driving factors of clothing change. The traditional dress style consists of two systems, one is the dress worn in important ceremonial occasions; One is the common clothes worn in daily life. The former is prosperous and luxurious, while the latter is simple and simple; The daily ordinary clothes of the upper class aristocrats are greatly influenced by the former, while the ordinary clothes of ordinary people have not changed much. After the establishment of the feudal dynasty, the "ritual and music system" was mainly to standardize the former, but it also had a certain impact on the latter.
Although there were regional differences in women's hair styles during the Warring States period, in the later period, they basically tended to hang their hair behind their heads. The most popular hairstyle for women in Qin and Han dynasties was still hanging bun. Because this hairstyle hangs down to the shoulder and looks like a cloud, it is also called "hanging cloud bun". Around the end of the Western Han Dynasty, Gao E gradually became popular among upper-class aristocratic women. At that time, a nursery rhyme circulating in Chang 'an, the capital of Beijing, said, "The city is so advanced that the square is one foot high." "History of the East View" says that Ma Huanghou's hair is beautiful and can be combed into "four big bun, but more than enough, three times around the bun". It can be seen that in the early years of the Eastern Han Dynasty, the high bun was not a rare thing, but it was precious to form a high bun with one's own hair, which showed that wigs were still quite popular in this period from another angle. Another change in women's hair styles in the Eastern Han Dynasty was the innovation of hanging bun. During the reign of Emperor Shun of Han Dynasty, Sun Shou, the wife of consorts, created a new hairstyle called "Pony bun", which was slightly biased to one side, giving people an unbalanced impression, which was refreshing. For a time, aristocratic women in the city followed suit and said, "Make up cicadas and thin temples, and hang a bun according to the falling horse." This hairstyle has increased the charm of women, spread to future generations, and appeared in various forms. For example, in the Wei and Jin Dynasties, there was a kind of "Japanese style falling horse steamed bun" derived from "falling horse steamed bun". Bao's "Notes on Ancient and Modern Times" says: "There is no reply to the author of the falling horse bun today, only the sunset bun, and a cloud falls." This hairstyle was still popular in the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties. From the unearthed image data, this bun is always tied at the top, tied in the middle of the head, tilted to one side, and then fixed with a hairpin. As people chanted at that time: "Japanese people lie down to comb their hair, while Lianjuan sweeps their eyebrows."
The Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties from the 3rd century to the 6th century A.D. was a turbulent and tortuous time. Political division and ethnic conflicts have led to drastic changes in all aspects of social life. The dissolute habits of celebrities at that time were also reflected in the decoration of women. In the early years of the Western Jin Dynasty, "women tied their hair very slowly and could not stand on their own feet." On the other hand, due to the popularity of Buddhism and Taoism, women's high bun has evolved into various styles such as "snake bun", "flying bun" and "dish horizontal bun" under the influence of fairy and flying image in religious paintings. Their common feature is to comb their hair on the top of their heads, comb it into strands, and then weigh all kinds of styles after talking. The popularity of women in this period also had a great influence on women's decoration. Before that, prostitutes had been rewarding the winning soldiers for a long time, and then their "service" object gradually turned from soldiers to the people, and reached an unprecedented peak during this period. In order to please people, those who specialize in decoration and luxury clothes are often advocates and promoters of fashion clothes. Since then, prostitute fashion has become another leading force after court fashion in changing customs.
Perhaps the Northern and Southern Dynasties created a new world of women's makeup. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, especially in the Tang Dynasty, women's hair styles were more colorful, surpassing their predecessors. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of China's feudal society, with national unity and economic prosperity. If the Sui Dynasty, which perished in the second year, is like a flash in the pan, then the powerful Tang Dynasty is like a peony in full bloom, fragrant and lasting forever. The Tang Dynasty advocated the beauty of health preservation. As can be seen from the paintings handed down from the Tang Dynasty, all the beautiful women at that time were strong and rich. Therefore, in women's makeup, the decadent atmosphere of the previous generation is swept away, gorgeous and elegant. Almost all the popular hairstyles in the past have been creatively inherited, and the hanging horse bun, coiled cloud bun and towering flying bun have all been refurbished in the hands of the Tang Dynasty. For example, He Jing Ji, once popular in the Southern and Northern Dynasties, looks like a frightened crane bird spreading its wings; In the Tang Dynasty, it was changed to "surprise bun", and the lines were softer and more natural, corresponding to the woman's face, which was very interesting. An open society has created an open mind. In the Tang Dynasty, many hairstyles influenced by ethnic customs were popular among women, such as Uman bun, Zhuan bun and Hu Hui bun. People don't feel strange, but they are competing to imitate, and poems chanting this hairstyle abound. Throughout the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the top-quality products were always popular, and the "Eji" popular in the middle and late Tang Dynasty was more than one foot high, just as Yuan Zhen's "Li Wa Xing" recited: "The bun is three feet high, and the spring breeze stands in front of the door." This is the hairstyle of a noble woman in the picture of a lady handed down from generation to generation. The popularity of high bun makes wigs more common. It is worth mentioning that in addition to wigs made of hair, people in the Tang Dynasty also used a lot of fake buns made of wood and paper, which is actually closer to the category of jewelry. In the tombs of the Tang Dynasty in Turpan, Xinjiang, two artifacts have been unearthed: one is made of wood, shaped like a "semi-turn bun", painted with black paint, and there are some small holes at the bottom for inserting the hairpin; The other one is made of paper, which is similar in shape to "E-bun" and painted with complex patterns outside.
The Song Dynasty, built on the ruins of the Five Dynasties, was not as powerful as the Tang Dynasty, but its cultural and material life was as prosperous as the Tang Dynasty. The dominant cultural interest is not only operated by a few aristocratic families, but also the participation of a large number of secular landlords and literati classes, which makes the social culture permeated with a stronger literati temperament and added a lot of elegance. Correspondingly, the trend of women's wear has changed from luxury to elegance and simplicity, "only clean and not unusual", and slimness rather than strength has become the standard of beauty. Women's hair styles in this period still advocated high bun, although the style was not as gorgeous as that in Tang Dynasty, it was quite stylish. One of the most popular is "concentric bun", which is a simple combing method. Just tie your hair in a bun. Later, the "tassel bun" was deduced from the "concentric bun". The basic shape of this hairstyle is similar to "concentric bun", except that a ribbon is tied at the root of the bun so as not to hang over the shoulders. In the early years of Southern Song Dynasty, "concentric bun" was still popular in remote areas. Lu You said in "Entering Shu" that he saw the girls in Sichuan "wearing concentric buns, two feet high, removing six branches with a silver hairpin, and combing their ivory as big as their hands". But in big cities, the height of law and discipline has gradually converged. In Qingbo magazine, Zhou Wei said that when he was a child, he "saw that women's clothing changed with the times, but hundreds of years ago, the sample system should be different. Such as high crown and long comb, it is still visible. At that time, it was called' big comb wrap', not used for grand ceremonies. If applied today, it may not be praised as novel, but it is not timely and does not sell well. Generally speaking, the predecessors used to manage utensils and build houses, which were all high, and then gradually narrowed, as were jewels. " It can be seen that the popularity of high bun has turned low after nearly a thousand years, which has a lot to do with the change of architectural style. Since then, a bun as high as two or three feet is rare. Li Yu, who lived in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, criticized Gao Ji even more: "The bun is one foot long and the sleeves are full of silk, which is not only unsightly, but also straight into ghosts."
During the Qingming period, the feudal era of China entered the late stage, and the traditional culture had developed to a very sophisticated level, with its vitality gradually declining and its cultural interest also turned into a complicated pile and too detailed. External glamour can't cover up the lack of creativity. In the Ming Dynasty, women's hair styles tended to be low and sharp, and when they reached six or seven inches, they were considered as high-bun. The style of bun has not changed much, such as peony head, flowerpot head and alms bowl head. A new pattern is usually found in decades, but the decoration on the bun is extremely gorgeous. This is clearly reflected in Tianshui Iceberg Record, which records Gao Song's family business. During this period, the fashion of prostitutes and the fashion trend of women have great influence. Because southern officials and dignitaries appreciate prostitutes, southern characteristics have become the mainstream of fashion. For example, Du Weiniang's steamed bun (also known as fennel steamed bun), which was popular in the mid-Ming Dynasty, was first founded by Du Weiniang, a prostitute, and then spread to the whole country from the south. Even the hair style of the palace is influenced by the people in turn. "It is not as elegant as dressing in the south."
You Dong wrote a poem in Qing Dynasty: "It is said that Jiangnan is one foot high, and six palaces strive to learn peony heads." In the Ming Dynasty, hairband and tiara were popular among women, and these two ornaments soon became quite decorative. Clausius, a Portuguese monk who came to China in the late Ming Dynasty, recorded that women "combed their hair, put it back, tied it on their heads, and tied it with a wide ribbon from the root to the top." The ribbon is surrounded by pearls and gold foil. " /kloc-in the middle of the 0/7th century, the state power was established to meet the requirements of entering the customs. From the pre-Qin era, the custom of men's hair bun was changed to shaving and braiding under the administrative order of * * * *, while women still maintained the old custom of the Ming Dynasty. This is the so-called "male decline and female decline". Modern women's "grasping bun", that is, the style of bun ending at the back of the head, generally appeared in the late Qing Dynasty. In the early days of the People's Republic of China, with the promotion of haircut, women's bun was also concise and neat. The farther back, the fewer people comb. In remote villages, it did not disappear until after the fifties and sixties.