What are the ancient makeup steps?
[Cosmetic powder]
In ancient China, women used powder for a long time, which has always been the most common way to make up. According to the records of the Tang Dynasty, Tang Huangming gave Yang Guifei's sisters a powder fee of up to one million taels every year! Li Yu, a dramatist in the early Qing Dynasty, had a unique view on the method of assigning points. He thought that women used powder at that time? There is a tendency to be subordinate to the situation, and the more beautiful, the more beautiful. ,? Can white make it white? ,? Black and white is to show its black? The relationship between makeup and aesthetics is obvious.
The oldest cosmetic powder has two ingredients, one is made of rice flour; There is also a kind of cosmetic powder that turns white lead into mushy facial fat, commonly known as? Hu Fen? . Because it is made of lead, it is also called? Leading China? Also known as? Lead powder? Yes Both powders are applied to the face to keep the skin smooth. There is also a kind of fragrant powder, which is made of corn, but in the end, various spices are added. Because corn itself contains a certain viscosity, it is not easy to fall off when coated on the face.
Manipulation: Now we can easily cover blemishes and even skin color with liquid foundation, but after liquid foundation, we can fix makeup with powder cake or loose powder. Pay attention to the fine powder, which does not contain pearlescent particles. The focus is on elegant makeup and delicate skin.
[Eyebrows]
Thrush is the most popular and common makeup method in China, which was produced in the Warring States Period. Qu Yuan wrote it in The Songs of the South? Big move:? White and black, Shi Fangze. ? Big black? It means to use black thrush. In the Han dynasty, thrush became more and more common, and the more you painted, the better you looked. "Mizhuangtai" said? Wei Wudi ordered imperial secretary to draw blue-black eyebrows, even head eyebrows, and draw them very long, called fairy makeup. ? Instead, the use of black eyebrows has become a new thing in the popularity of Cui eyebrows.
In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the popular thrush was wide and short, shaped like laurel leaves or moth wings. In order to make the broad eyebrows not look dull, women will even smear color on the edges of their eyebrows when they are thrusting. This is called? Dizzy eyebrows? . Another is to draw eyebrows very thin, called? Fine eyebrows? By the time of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty, the forms of thrush were even more colorful, including mandarin duck eyebrow, hill eyebrow, five-peak eyebrow, three-peak eyebrow, beaded eyebrow, moon eyebrow, split eyebrow, smoke eyebrow, smoke eyebrow and inverted eyebrow. There are so many paintings on the eyebrows alone, which shows that the ancients have a strong love for beauty.
Manipulation: The earliest thrush material in ancient China is Dai, a black mineral, also known as Dai? Shi Dai? . Now we have eyebrow pencil and eyebrow powder, but if we want to draw the essence of ancient female eyebrows, we must learn to remove and cover them. Cover the original eyebrow shape and redundant eyebrows with foundation, and then sketch with eyebrow pencil.
[rouge]
So-called? Rouge? It's actually something called. Red and blue? Flowers with red and yellow pigments in petals are picked by the whole flower after flowering, and then repeatedly mashed in a stone bowl to remove the yellow juice, which becomes a bright red pigment. There are two kinds of makeup faces for ancient women. One is made of silk floss dipped in red and blue flower juice. Cotton cigarettes? ; The other is processed into small and thin flower pieces called. Jinhua Yan Zhi? . These two kinds of rouge have been dried in the shade, and can be applied when dipped in a small amount of water. Besides red and blue, the raw materials for making rouge are crimson, pomegranate, mountain flower and Su Fang wood.
Technique: Apply white powder first, then rouge. The position of rouge is often concentrated on the cheeks, so the cheeks are mostly red, while the forehead, nose and chin are white. What are the traditional techniques of painting figures in ancient China? Sanbai? Say, it's based on this makeup method, from history books? Peach blossom makeup? This word refers to this kind of makeup; You can also apply a layer of rouge to your face first, and then gently cover it with white powder. Because the degree of discoloration is different, the name is different, and the rich man is called? Drunk makeup? , a little lighter? Fei Xia makeup? .
[Lips, flowers]
Lipstick was called oral fat and lip fat in ancient times. Oral fat is red, painted on the lips. There are many ways to fill your mouth. China is used to the beauty of small mouth, is that? A little cherry? Sandalwood was also popular in the Tang and Song Dynasties, and sandalwood was light crimson. Qin Guan, a poet in the Northern Song Dynasty, sang in Nan Gezi:? Rubbing the blue apricot skirt, leaning on the jade bar alone, sandalwood lips are speechless. ? This color of oral fat is still popular until modern times. Of course, whether it is cinnabar or sandalwood, it should be properly selected and used according to the different characteristics and conditions of individuals. It was also in the Tang Dynasty that decals became popular. What is the bud made of? In ancient times, the materials for making flower buds were very rich, including gold foil, paper, fish scales and camellia cakes. The most interesting thing is that even dragonfly wings can be used as flower buds! In ancient times, women's makeup methods were not only rich, but also unique and eclectic.
Operation method: Cover the original lip color with foundation, then start coloring with matte lipstick from lip bead, and then gently push the color outward with lip brush or ring finger pulp to form a smudge state.
The first major project is to remove facial hair, moisturize and replenish water. This modern woman knows how to use masks, nose patches and even concealer and toner. But the ancients didn't have these things, so they could only use a stupid method. Grinding your face? This kind of scene has also appeared in some costume TV movies, that is, a thread is folded in half and rolled around on the face, and all the hair on the face is pulled out, so that the face will look much smoother, and girls before marriage often use the method of twisting their faces to make themselves more beautiful. However, the resulting pain is also very strong. But for ancient aristocratic women, there will be more choices. For example, egg white, talcum powder, motherwort, almond and honey are mixed together and then applied to the face, which has a cosmetic effect. To put it bluntly, it is today's homemade mask, but it is risky. Because of the large molecular size of natural materials, it is difficult to pass through the gaps of skin surface cells, and it may also lead to skin infection because of its own corruption.
The second largest project is the most lasting whitening of women throughout the ages. It is said that during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, Qin Mugong's daughter Nong Yu was very beautiful, and many people liked her very much. A young man named Shaw History made a unique whitening product to please Nong Yu? Fei yundan? . After the product was made, it was sent to Nong Yu. After using it, Nong Yu felt that the effect was particularly good and she was whiter. But soon, Nong Yu Mei died unfortunately. Why is this? According to historians' speculation, Shaw History knew a little about chemistry and knew that mercury could whiten the skin, so he got some mercury to do experiments and finally made it? Fei yundan? , whitening effect is very good, but also let Nong Yu died of mercury poisoning. Of course, there are still many illegal cosmetics that use mercury or lead to whiten skin. For example, it was particularly popular on the internet a few years ago. Children's beauty artifact . Many girls used this product, and the initial effect was very good, and the skin became white and tender. It won't be long before you feel uncomfortable. Going to the hospital for examination may be lead poisoning or mercury poisoning.
The third major beauty project is lip care and makeup. The ancient people used oral fat, which is similar to lipstick or lipstick today. Especially in autumn and winter in the north, the weather is very dry. Although ancient people didn't have lipstick now, they also had their own nursing methods. According to the records of Jia Sixie in the Northern Dynasties in the Book of Qi Yao Min, ancient people used grease on their mouths to prevent them from cracking. How did this oral fat come from? The ancients put bovine bone marrow into a pot to fry. After the bovine bone marrow melted, they poured the wine soaked in clove and agastache into the pot to continue frying, and then added a kind of grass called Artemisia annua to change the color. After frying, filter with cotton cloth, and finally put the oil into a porcelain bowl to coagulate. The completely solidified thing is oral fat. Oral fat can be said to be a pure natural skin care product, which can not only prevent frost cracking, but also effectively dilute lip lines, benefiting many women.
Later, in the Tang Dynasty, people found that the color of waxy oral fat was better, so they cooked it with wax and added a kind of Arnebia euchroma in it, and the cooked oral fat turned red.
Fourth, make up. The most commonly used thing in ancient times is called bud, which is also equivalent to the present facial modeling. This kind of decoration has existed throughout the ages, and the beauties of the Tang Dynasty like it best. Generally, in addition to painting eyes and eyebrows, there are also decals on the face. Some people have to decorate other parts of their faces after wearing flowers. For example, flower buds are decorated with gold, fish gills, feathers and black paper. They have bone glue on their backs. Breathe gently and stick it on your face, so it won't fall off.
Ancient women's? Eyebrow pencil?
It is said that thrush began in the Warring States period. Before there were any specific thrush materials, women burned willow branches and painted them on their eyebrows (strange makeup, preferably modern). The materials used by ancient women thrush changed with the development of the times. According to the literature, the earliest thrush material is Dai, a black mineral, also known as? Shi Dai? . Before painting, Shi Dai must be ground into powder on the inkstone and then mixed with water. Many Han tombs have found ink stones of the Mohist dynasty, which shows that this cosmetic has been used in the Han Dynasty. ? In addition to stone wear, there are bronze wear, bluebird head wear and screw wear. Copper generation is a chemical substance similar to copper rust. Green finch head is a kind of dark gray thrush material, which was introduced from the western regions in the Northern and Southern Dynasties. Mother-of-pearl Dai is a thrush material used by women in Sui and Tang Dynasties, which was produced in Persia. It is a kind of Dai block with various prescribed shapes after processing and manufacturing. When used, it can be dipped in water without grinding, because its appearance and production process are similar to those of ink ingots for painting and calligraphy, so it is also called? Graphite? , or? Thrush ink. ? In the Song Dynasty, thrush ink was more widely used, and women rarely used Shi Dai again. Women in China began to use cosmetic powder at least during the Warring States Period. The oldest cosmetic powder has two components, one is rice flour, and the ancient Chinese characters of powder are separated from rice; There is also a kind of cosmetic powder that turns white lead into mushy facial fat, commonly known as? Hu Fen? . Because it is made of lead, it is also called? Leading China? Also known as? Lead powder? Yes Both powders are applied to the face to keep the skin smooth. As for the method of making rice noodles, it is recorded in detail in the Elements of Qi People. The most primitive method of making rice noodles is to fill rice juice with a round rice bowl, make it precipitate and make it white and greasy? Pink English? Then put it in the sun, and the dried powder can be used for makeup. Because this method is simple, it is widely circulated among the people. Until the Tang and Song Dynasties, people still used this method to make rice noodles. There is also a kind of fragrant powder, which is made of corn, similar to it, but made with various spices at last. Because corn itself contains a certain viscosity, it is not easy to fall off when coated on the surface. Compared with rice flour, the production technology of lead powder is much more complicated. From the early literature, the so-called lead powder actually contains many chemical elements such as lead, tin, aluminum and zinc. Lead powder originally used for women's makeup has not been dehydrated, so it is mostly paste. Since the Han dynasty, lead powder has been sucked dry and made into powder or solid. Because of its delicate texture, white color and easy preservation, it is deeply loved by women and has replaced the status of rice flour over time. In addition to simple rice flour and lead powder, there are many famous cosmetics of ancient women. For example, during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Duan Qiaoxiao, a court official, mixed rice flour, Hu powder and sunflower seed juice. Purple powder? . The palaces in the Tang Dynasty were made of fine millet? Butterfly powder? . Made of gypsum, talc, mussel powder, wax fat, musk deer and motherwort in the Song Dynasty? Jade girl peach blossom powder? . Was it refined from white jasmine seeds in the Ming Dynasty? Pearl powder? There are also Hosta-like flowers and Hu fen? Hosta powder? . Is it made of pearls from the Qing Dynasty? Pearl powder? And ground with fine stones such as talc? Stone powder? Wait a minute. There are also famous producing areas, such as Zhejiang? Hangzhou powder? (also known as official powder); Jingzhou? Fan Yang Fen? ; Hebei? Fixed powder? ; Guilin? Cinnamon powder and so on, the color of the powder has also increased from the original white to a variety of colors, and various precious spices have been added, which is more attractive. Over the past half century, with the deepening of archaeological work, a large number of cosmetic powders have been unearthed, some in exquisite bowls and some in silk bags. The most distinctive one is the Southern Song Dynasty cosmetic powder unearthed in Fuzhou, Fujian, which is made into powder blocks with specific shapes, such as round, square, quadrilateral, octagonal and sunflower petals. And embossed with concave and convex plum blossom, orchid and lotus patterns. Rouge is a common cosmetic used by ancient women. There are many ways to write rouge in ancient books, such as? What is this? 、? Cigarettes Fresh branches? 、? Yan Zhi? 、? Yan Zhi? 、? E Shi? Wait a minute. ?
This is a red pigment. There is a saying that the real origin of ancient rouge is Yanqi Mountain of Xiongnu. E Shi? This name is a kind of address for Huns to woo women. It originally refers to aristocratic wives, because these aristocratic women often use it? E Shi? Make up your face, so? E Shi? Became synonymous with them. It is said that the introduction of rouge into the Central Plains is related to Zhang Qian's mission to the Western Regions. So-called? Rouge? It's actually something called. Red and blue? Flowers with red and yellow pigments in petals are picked by the whole flower after flowering, and then repeatedly mashed in a stone bowl to remove the yellow juice, which becomes a bright red pigment. There are two kinds of rouge for women's makeup. One is made of silk floss dipped in red and blue flower juice. Cotton cigarettes? ; The other is processed into small and thin flower pieces called. Jinhua Yan Zhi? . Both kinds of rouge can be dried in the shade, and can be applied with a small amount of water. In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, people added bovine marrow, pig pancreas and other things to this red pigment, making it a dense and lubricated oil. As a result, Yan Zhi was written? Rouge? ,? Fat? It has real meaning. There is a vivid description of rouge in the forty-four chapters of A Dream of Red Mansions. This rouge? It's not a piece, it's a small white jade box, which contains something similar to rose cream. Baoyu said with a smile, the products sold in the shop are not clean and the color is thin. This is the best rouge. Squeeze it out, clean it and steam it with toilet water. Just pick a little on the hairpin and put it on your lips, that's enough. Melt it with a little water and put it in your palm. It's enough to pat your face. ? Pinger's makeup is really bright and abnormal, and her cheeks are full of sweet fragrance. ? Besides red and blue, the raw materials for making rouge are crimson, pomegranate, mountain flower and Su Fang wood. Heavy crimson is a kind of crimson dye, its color is relatively thick, not as bright and transparent as red and blue. During the Han and Wei dynasties, it was often used as the material of swallows. Pomegranate flower is also a kind of red pigment, which was often used to dye skirts in Sui and Tang Dynasties. Pomegranate red skirt? , but it can also be used to make rouge. Mountain flower, similar to pomegranate flower, is a kind of wild plant, which can be used as cosmetic raw material after refining and processing. Sue is also famous? Sumu? Although its color is dim, it has a long history as a dye, and it was the main red dye as early as the Wei and Jin Dynasties. Due to the popularity of rouge, after the Han Dynasty, the number of feminine red makeup increased day by day and lasted for a long time. Judging from a large number of literature records and image data, in ancient times, women often used both powder and powder in makeup, while rouge alone was rare. Specific methods can be divided into three types:
1. Mix rouge with lead powder before makeup to make it reddish brown? That is, pink, and then painted directly on the cheeks, because it has been adjusted into a color before painting, so the color is relatively uniform, and the color of the whole face is relatively uniform, which can give people a solemn and quiet feeling, so it is mostly used for adult women; ?
2. Apply white powder first, then rouge. The position of rouge is often concentrated on the cheeks, so the cheeks are mostly red, while the forehead, nose and chin are white. What are the traditional techniques of painting figures in ancient China? Sanbai? In short, it is based on this makeup method (Tang Yan's paintings can see the real thing, and most women make up like this). From the image, this makeup style is often used in youth and history books? Peach blossom makeup? This word refers to this kind of makeup; ?
Apply a layer of rouge on your face first, and then gently cover it with white powder. Because the degree of discoloration is different, the name is different, and the rich man is called? Drunk makeup? , a little lighter? Fei Xia makeup? . Spice Long Xianxiang? The magnificent ocean landscape, towering cliffs and cascading waves point out the origin and characteristics of Long Xianxiang. Jiao Ren collected yinlong saliva like lead water from Longdong, exposed Long Xianxiang and Bai Yutang to dust, and turned them into heart-shaped characters to seal incense. Long Xianxiang is made into various exquisite shapes. This product is an opaque waxy lump with different sizes, and its appearance is gray-black, rough and covered with particles. Light and crisp. The outer surface of the section is dark gray, and the inner layer is black, gray and grayish yellow. It tastes like wax and feels sticky. The smell is slightly fishy. It is best to be gray-black, light and fragrant. Is the real distillation method of perfume Guangnan? ,? In fact, the basic process of making perfume by distillation is adopted. In fact, a simple distiller is made here: put all kinds of flowers in the retort, put the retort on the steamer, turn the pot upside down and cover it tightly, so that a closed space is formed in the retort; The bottom of the still is covered with small holes. Under the violent steaming of the fire, the steam generated by the hot water in the pot will rise into the retort through the small holes in the bottom. At this time, the inverted basin on the distillation tank acts as the dome of the cooler in the distiller device. The steam rushing up from the retort bottom will take away the essence of flowers decomposed by heat, rise to the overturned basin bottom, condense into water at the basin bottom, and then drop around the inverted basin dome. A circle of bamboo tubes is hung around the basin, which is equivalent to the drain pipe and reservoir in the distiller. It receives the aromatic condensate flowing from the bottom of the basin and collects the representative cosmetics in ancient China: rouge, duck egg powder, head oil and sachet. These four things are the representatives of ancient cosmetics in China with a long history. It is recorded in the Book of the Tang Dynasty that oral fat, facial fat, head cream and garment sachet were presented in Lari and given to Beimen Bachelor.