The Tang Dynasty was an era of high political and economic development, prosperous culture and art, and splendid feudal culture. Tang Yitong saved the chaos and division of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties and Sui Dynasty, established a unified and powerful country, developed foreign trade transactions, greatly developed productivity, and enjoyed long-term prosperity and national security. Especially when the prosperous Tang Dynasty became the center of economic and cultural exchanges among Asian nations, it was the most brilliant page in China's cultural history. During this period, Indian and Iranian cultures were absorbed and integrated into China culture, which was fully reflected in murals, stone carvings, sculptures, books, paintings, silk embroidery, pottery figurines and costumes.
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the most obvious feature of China's clothing was the dual-track system. Wear the traditional costumes of the Han nationality at the big sacrificial ceremony. In normal times, the official costume of the Tang Dynasty was made of Hufu (Xianbei clothing).
By the Tang dynasty, the country was unified, the economy was prosperous, the shape was more open, and the costumes were more and more gorgeous. The characteristic of women's dress in Tang Dynasty is the unity of skirt, blouse and blouse. Among women, there is an image of topless and bare arms. On the east wall of Princess Yongtai's tomb, there is an image of a woman in the Tang Dynasty, with a high bun, shirtless, HongLing shoulders, a yellow short-sleeved blouse, a long green dress sweeping the floor, and a red belt hanging from her waist, which gives a more vivid understanding of "powder chest is half hidden and dark snow is suspected" and "wearing fine grass when sitting, that is, sweeping plum blossoms with a skirt".
Dressing slowly and revealing a little is not everyone's job. In the Tang Dynasty, only people with status could wear open-chested shirts, Princess Yongtai could be semi-naked, and singers could be semi-naked to please the ruling class, while women in ordinary families were not allowed to be semi-naked. At that time, the semi-topless dress of the Tang Dynasty was somewhat similar to the evening dress of the modern west except that the shoulders and back were not allowed to be exposed.
The collars of women's wear in the Tang Dynasty include round neck, square collar, oblique collar, straight collar and chicken heart collar. Short skirts and long skirts are characterized by high waists, generally above the waist, and some are even tied under the armpits, giving people a very slender feeling.
"Luoshan leaves are heavily embroidered, and Jinfeng Yinyan has its own traces." Mei Dai wins the color of day lily, and the red skirt envies pomegranate flowers. The skirts in the Tang Dynasty are colorful, with red, purple, yellow and green competing for each other, especially the red skirt. The popularity of red skirts in the streets is not the patent of modern people. As early as the prosperous Tang Dynasty, dance skirts were dyed red by pomegranate flowers everywhere.
Perhaps influenced by the theory of Yin-Yang and Five Elements, Yang Guifei likes the yellow skirt best, which is a symbol of status.
The "semi-exposed skirt" reflects the openness of society at that time from one side.
Social ideology formed on a certain economic basis. It is an important factor affecting social fashion and clothing. Clothing is a barometer of social and political climate. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of feudal society in China, especially during Zhenguan and Kaiyuan years, when the political climate was relaxed and the people lived and worked in peace and contentment. Chang 'an, the capital of the Tang Dynasty, was the political, economic and cultural center at that time, and also the center of cultural exchanges between the East and the West. The ancient city of An, the morning bell of the Wild Goose Pagoda, the smoke from the thatched cottage, the wind and snow of willows, the sunset of Mount Li, the sacred palm of the mountain and the stone carvings in the forest of steles seem to still haunt the sound of the prosperous Tang Dynasty. More than 300 countries had friendly exchanges with the Tang government. Through them, splendid China culture spread to all parts of the world. Today, some countries in East Asia still regard the costumes of the Tang Dynasty as formal attire, which shows its lasting influence. Foreign friendly envoys gathered in Chang 'an and also spread the seeds of their culture in Qinchuan, 800 miles away. Painting, sculpture, music, dance and other arts in the Tang Dynasty absorbed foreign skills and styles. The eclecticism of foreign costumes makes the exotic costumes in the Tang Dynasty even more dazzling.
Due to the open policy adopted by the Tang Dynasty, the costumes of the Western Regions and Tubo were eclectic, so "mud hat" and "fashionable makeup" became popular. This is the third great change in the ancient costume history of China. Different from the previous two major changes in clothing, this time the clothing exchange is from north to south and then to east.
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The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of feudal society in China, and both people's thoughts and material production reached a historical peak. Since the Tang Dynasty, flower patterns have been widely used in craft decoration, with lively and free composition, well-proportioned density, fullness and roundness. In particular, the combination of wavy continuous patterns and flowers and plants is a popular branch-tying pattern in Tang Dynasty.
The costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty changed the creative thinking given by God in the past, using real flowers, grass, fish and insects to sketch, but they did not exclude the traditional dragon and phoenix patterns, which was also determined by the influence of imperial power. At this time, the clothing pattern design tends to express the artistic style of freedom, fullness and fatness.
The dress patterns in the late Tang Dynasty were more exquisite and beautiful. Flower-and-bird clothing patterns, border decoration patterns and group flower clothing patterns are really colorful in the soft clothing of silk and yarn. As Wang Jian of the Five Dynasties said, "Luoshan leaves are embroidered again, and there is a cluster of golden phoenix silver geese, each dancing in two directions, between the words" Long live peace ". "Today we see these luxurious and exquisite costume patterns, which are precious image materials that Dunhuang Grottoes painters have preserved for future generations with hard work. The development of costumes in Tang Dynasty is an overall development. At this time, the clothing pattern design tends to be free, plump, gorgeous and round, which is manifested in shoes, hats, towels, Yu Pei, hairstyle, makeup and jewelry.
As can be seen from the picture, the hair styles are rich and colorful, with Feng Huangwen and peony patterns. Some hairstyles show moire marks, which is the embodiment of moire development and change. Judging from the style of shoes, upturned round toe shoes prevailed in the Tang Dynasty, with exquisite workmanship, and even straw sandals were exquisite in craftsmanship. The silk shoes are embroidered with tiger head embroidery, which is similar to the tiger head shoes worn by Shandong children, but the tiger head shoes worn by Shandong rural children are not so upturned. There are similarities between men's shoes and modern shoes, which shows that the development of shoes has reached its peak at that time. Looking at the costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty, we can understand it like this:
The Tang Dynasty inherited the styles of Zhou, Warring States and Wei and Jin Dynasties, and integrated the rigor of dress design of Zhou Dynasty, the stretch of Warring States, the lightness of Han Dynasty and the elegance of Wei and Jin Dynasties, and on this basis, it became more luxurious, making the dress and dress patterns reach the peak in history. The influence of costumes and costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty on later generations continues to this day. The application of branch patterns in modern clothing patterns embodies the implication of combining traditional patterns with modern aesthetic consciousness.
(Three pieces of Sui and Tang armor)
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the armor and uniforms of the armor in the early Tang Dynasty basically maintained the style and shape from the Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Sui Dynasty. After Zhenguan, a series of clothing system reforms were carried out, and military and military clothing with tang style was gradually formed. During the period of Emperor Gaozong and China, the national strength was at its peak and the world was at peace. The luxury trend of the upper class is becoming more and more serious. Military clothes and armor are mostly divorced from the use function and have evolved into beautiful and luxurious etiquette clothes mainly decorated. After the "An Shi Rebellion", it returned to the practical state conducive to combat in the iron age of Kingoma. This picture shows the wearing of armor, pockets and boots. This type of armor is more exquisite than that in the early Tang Dynasty, and the decoration on the armor is also more delicate, which is a typical style in the middle Tang Dynasty.
(Five generations of armor and military uniforms)
The armor and uniforms of the costumes of the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties in the early Tang Dynasty basically maintained the styles and shapes from the Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Sui Dynasty. After Zhenguan, a series of clothing system reforms were carried out, and military and military clothing with tang style was gradually formed. During the period of Emperor Gaozong and China, the national strength was at its peak and the world was at peace. The luxury trend of the upper class is becoming more and more serious. Military clothes and armor are mostly divorced from the use function and have evolved into beautiful and luxurious etiquette clothes mainly decorated. After the "An Shi Rebellion", it returned to the practical state conducive to combat in the iron age of Kingoma. The clothing system of the Five Dynasties basically followed the system of the late Tang Dynasty, and the armor of Guang Jia in Ming Dynasty basically withdrew from the historical stage. The armor was all made of armor pieces and became a two-piece suit in shape. Hand stroke and shoulder pad are combined into one; The breastplate and leggings are connected into a whole, tied back and forth with two shoulder straps and placed on the shoulder pads. The other five generations continued to use leather armor, made of large pieces of leather, and wore gloves and protective equipment. This picture shows the restoration of warriors wearing armor and military uniforms during the Five Dynasties.
(Tang armor)
The armor and uniforms of the costumes of the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties in the early Tang Dynasty basically maintained the styles and shapes from the Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Sui Dynasty. After Zhenguan, a series of clothing system reforms were carried out, and military and military clothing with tang style was gradually formed. During the period of Emperor Gaozong and China, the national strength was at its peak and the world was at peace. The luxury trend of the upper class is becoming more and more serious. Military clothes and armor are mostly divorced from the use function and have evolved into beautiful and luxurious etiquette clothes mainly decorated. After the "An Shi Rebellion", it returned to a practical state conducive to combat, especially armor, which was basically finalized in the late Tang Dynasty. According to the Six Classics of the Tang Dynasty, the armor of the Tang Dynasty includes strong light, light armor, fine scales, mountain prose, bird hammer, white cloth, soap Juan, cloth back, infantry, leather armor, wooden armor and wooden armor. Among them, Mingguang, Eta Ursae Majoris, Suozi, Shanwen, Bird Hammer and Thin Scale are armor, and the latter three are named after the style of armor pieces. Leather armor, wooden armor, white cloth, soap roll and cloth back are all named after the manufacturing materials. In armor, bright armor is still the most commonly used. The picture shows the recovery of warriors in Ming armour and military uniform in Tang Dynasty.
(Sui Dynasty military uniforms and armor)
The most commonly used armor in Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties is the crotch light. Compared with the previous generation, the crotch structure has been improved and the shape has changed a little. Generally, small nail pieces with scales and other shapes are woven, and the length extends to the abdomen, replacing the original leather nail skirt. The hem of the bulletproof vest is crescent-shaped and lotus-leaf-shaped nail pieces to protect the lower abdomen. These improvements have greatly enhanced the defense from the waist down. The shape of Ming Guanglong is basically the same as that of the Northern and Southern Dynasties, but the leg skirt has become longer. The military uniform of Sui Dynasty is a kind of round neck robe. This picture shows the restoration of the warriors in the Sui Dynasty (Fu Rong on the left and armor on the right).
(Sui and Tang Armor 2)
Armor of Sui and Tang Dynasties The armor of Tang Dynasty was used in actual combat, mainly armor and leather armor. In addition to real armor and leather armor, silk armor was widely used in the armor of the Tang Dynasty. Silk armor is armor made of silk and other textiles. It is light in structure and beautiful in appearance, but it has no defensive ability and cannot be used in actual combat. It can only be used as a general's uniform or ceremonial uniform. The picture shows the wearing of armor.
(Tang dynasty big sleeve shirt)
After the Tang Dynasty, the influence of Khufu gradually weakened, and the styles of women's clothes became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. Generally speaking, women's sleeves are often more than four feet wide. This picture shows the wearing of wide-sleeved cardigans, long skirts and silk in the middle and late Tang Dynasty. This is a noble costume in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, which is usually worn on important occasions, such as attending the Senate, attending ceremonies, getting married, etc. Wearing this kind of clothes, there are golden flowers in the hair, so it is also called "hairpin gift clothes". This picture shows a cardigan with big sleeves, a long skirt and silk.
(Uighur women's dress in the middle and late Tang Dynasty)
Exhibition of Uighur women's clothing in the middle and late Tang Dynasty. Comb a Uighur bun, wear a golden phoenix crown, wear a crane suit on the back, a lady in the late Tang Dynasty, and have variant brocade shoes with precious flower patterns. Uighur is a minority in the northwest of China, which is the predecessor of the present Uighur. During the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty, Uighur was the most powerful minority regime in the north. Uighurs and Han people have close and friendly relations, and their cultural exchanges and economic exchanges have never stopped. The costumes of the Uighur nationality have had a great influence on the Han nationality, especially among aristocratic women and court women. The basic characteristics of Uighur clothes are slightly like men's robes, lapels, narrow sleeves, wide body and long ground. The color is mainly warm, especially red. Most of the materials are thick brocade, and the collar and sleeves are inlaid with wide brocade lace. Wearing this kind of clothing, you usually put your hair in a vertebral bun, which is called "Uighur bun". On the bun, there is another peach-shaped golden crown decorated with pearl jade, and there is a phoenix bird on it. Hairpins are usually inserted in temples, and many exquisite jewelry are worn on ears and neck. Wear soft brocade shoes with your head up.
(Late Tang costumes)
During the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties, women's short coats were all small sleeve, with tight-fitting long skirts and high waists, generally above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. Silk, also known as "painted silk", is usually woven with a thin layer of yarn with pictures and patterns printed on it. The length is generally more than two meters. When in use, it is draped over the shoulders and rolled between the arms. It's beautiful to walk and jump from time to time. This picture shows the dresses (skirts, silks) of female customers in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes in the late Tang Dynasty.
(costumes of Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties)
The costumes of Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties flourished after the Tang Dynasty, and the influence of Hu Fu gradually weakened, and the styles of women's costumes became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. Generally speaking, women's sleeves are often more than four feet wide. Silk painted women unearthed in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, aristocratic women painted in the figure of Zanhua ladies, and pottery women's costumes unearthed in the tomb of the Second Mausoleum of the Southern Tang Dynasty are typical styles of this period. Noble women in the Tang Dynasty wore transparent gauze clothes and huge flowers on their heads, and no underwear was worn under the gauze clothes. This is a bold dress, which also reflects the open mind of women at that time. The style of big sleeve shirt skirt is big sleeve double-breasted and long skirt with silk. This picture is a mural of the Five Dynasties in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. Noble women wear crested bun, Dai Jinhua comb, jewelry necklace, long-sleeved dress, silk and round toe shoes.
(Women's Wear in the Tang Dynasty 2)
Women wearing skirts and silks in women's costumes in the prosperous Tang Dynasty (Zhang Xuan's "Tao Ren Map" part). During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. Silk, also known as "painted silk", is usually woven with a thin layer of yarn with pictures and patterns printed on it. The length is generally more than two meters. When in use, it is draped over the shoulders and rolled between the arms. It's beautiful to walk and jump from time to time. In addition, the masculinization of women's clothing was one of the manifestations of social openness in the Tang Dynasty, and it was a fashion for women to wear men's clothing at that time. Zhang Xuan was a famous painter in the mid-Tang Dynasty. Since Zhang Xuan, the theme of China's figure painting tends to be realistic, showing real social life. Ramming is Zhang Xuan's masterpiece, which depicts a group of women ramming, winding, ironing and sewing clothes. Lian is a kind of silk. When first woven, the texture is hard. It needs to be cooked, added with bleaching powder, mashed with a pestle, and then softened. It needs to be ironed with an iron. The women in the picture are all adult women, all wearing short curtains and silk on their shoulders. Judging from the patterns of narrow sleeves, upper body and skirt, they are all typical styles in the prosperous Tang Dynasty.
(Women's clothing in the prosperous Tang Dynasty)
Maids who wore skirts, silks or gowns in women's costumes in the prosperous Tang Dynasty (Zhang Xuan's You Chuntu, Lady of the State of Guo). During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. Silk, also known as "painted silk", is usually woven with a thin layer of yarn with pictures and patterns printed on it. The length is generally more than two meters. When in use, it is draped over the shoulders and rolled between the arms. It's beautiful to walk and jump from time to time. In addition, the masculinization of women's clothing was one of the manifestations of social openness in the Tang Dynasty, and it was a fashion for women to wear men's clothing at that time. You Chuntu, the wife of the State of Guo, depicts the scene of Yang's sisters, who were once prominent in the Xuanzong period of Tang Dynasty, going out for a spring outing. Four of them were wearing skirts and silk, including girls, and the other five were wearing men's T-shirts. Ms Guo is on the right in the middle of the photo. She wore light blue narrow sleeves, white silk on her shoulders, and a red skirt with golden flowers, revealing red ribbon shoes on embroidered shoes.
(Women's Wear in Sui and Tang Dynasties)
Women's dress in Sui and Tang Dynasties is the main dress style of women in Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. Half-arm, also known as "half-sleeve", is a clothing style born out of short sleeves. Generally short-sleeved, double-breasted, waist-length, tied to the chest. There is also a "hooded" style, which is worn by headgear. Half-arm hem can be exposed or stuck inside like a short reed. This picture shows the wearing of skirts and half-arms in the Sui and Tang Dynasties.
(Short skirts, long skirts and silk in Sui Dynasty)
Women's dress in Sui Dynasty is the main dress style of women in Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. Women's skirts have many names. Among middle-class and upper-class women, a hundred-bird feather skirt is popular. Because this skirt was made of bird feathers, a large number of rare birds and birds were damaged and later banned by the court. Among women, a kind of skirt called "pomegranate skirt" is popular. This skirt is dyed bright red, hence its name. Li Wa, Huo Xiaoyu and others. This kind of skirt is often worn in Tang novels. The skirts in the Tang Dynasty have new styles, many colors, fine materials and exquisite design, all of which have reached an unprecedented level. Silk, also known as "painted silk", is usually woven with a thin layer of yarn with pictures and patterns printed on it. The length is generally more than two meters. When in use, it is draped over the shoulders and rolled between the arms. It's beautiful to walk and jump from time to time. This picture shows the Sui Dynasty wearing short sleeves, long skirts and silk dresses, and the women in the Sui Dynasty wearing small sleeve short sleeves and long skirts (the kind of porcelain figurines in the Sui Dynasty).
(Tang officials often wear robes)
The official dress of men in the Tang Dynasty was the first dress developed on the basis of the Han and Wei Dynasties, and it was also called Fu Tou. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament to the hoe, called "towel". The shape of towels varies from time to time. Besides towels, many changes have taken place in the feet of steamed bread. By the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the original soft foot had become a hard foot with one left and one right. Officials in the Tang Dynasty mainly wore round neck and narrow sleeves, and their colors have been stipulated: all officials with more than three products should use purple; More than five products, blushing for color; Six products and seven products are green; Eight products and nine products are cyan. There will be slight changes in the future. In addition, the application of horizontal bow under the robe was also a major feature of men's wear at that time. This soil is the exhibition of round neck gown and tulle in Tang Dynasty.
("Protocol Map of Tang Dynasty")
In the Tang Dynasty, officials in the Tang Dynasty still wore dresses on some important occasions, such as sacrificial ceremonies, except for round necks and narrow sleeves. Most of the styles of dresses inherited the old system of Sui Dynasty: wearing a belt or cage crown, wearing a double-breasted sleeve shirt and a skirt, all of which were in Yu Pei. Large sleeves and crotch are also a feature of official uniforms in Sui and Tang Dynasties. This picture shows a civil servant, wearing a lacquer sarong crown and a long-sleeved dress (the mural of Li Xian's tomb in Ganxian County, Shaanxi Province, The Concierge Map). The three figures on the left are the images of officials of the Tang Dynasty, the fourth on the left is the envoy of the East Rome, and the fifth on the left is the ambassador of Koguryo.
(Tang Dynasty women's dress)
Half-arm skirt in Sui and Tang Dynasties is the main dress style of women in Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. Half-arm, also known as "half-sleeve", is a clothing style born out of short sleeves. Generally short-sleeved, double-breasted, waist-length, tied to the chest. There is also a "hooded" style, which is worn by headgear. Half-arm hem can be exposed or stuck inside like a short reed. Silk, also known as "painted silk", is usually woven with a thin layer of yarn with pictures and patterns printed on it. The length is generally more than two meters. When in use, it is draped over the shoulders and rolled between the arms. It's beautiful to walk and jump from time to time. Judging from the murals and terracotta figures handed down from ancient times, underwear (such as a half arm) must be worn inside this kind of clothing, but it cannot be used alone. This picture shows the half arm of the pullover and the dress.
(Zhongtang women's dress)
Women's dresses and skirts in the middle of the Tang Dynasty were the main clothing styles of women in the Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. The skirts in the middle Tang Dynasty are wider than those in the early Tang Dynasty, and the others have not changed much. This painting shows the middle Tang people wearing skirts and silk.
(Long-sleeved dress for civil servants in Tang Dynasty)
Dress of officials in the Tang Dynasty-In addition to wearing round neck and narrow sleeves, officials in the Tang Dynasty still have to wear formal clothes on some important occasions, such as sacrificial ceremonies. Most of the styles of clothing inherited the old system of Sui Dynasty, such as wearing a belt or cage crown, double-breasted big sleeve shirts, skirts, and ribbons from Yu Pei. This picture shows the long-sleeved dresses of civil servants in the Tang Dynasty (according to the unearthed pottery figurines and murals).
(Sui and Tang Palace Maids' Clothing)
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the lapels, lapels, striped trousers and strapless of Hu's clothes were displayed. The women's clothes painted in the picture are typical Hu's clothes styles, which were popular in Kaiyuan and Tianbao years. It is characterized by lapels, lapels, narrow sleeves and brocade edges. There are a large number of murals in tombs in Shaanxi and other places. There are also women in this dress in silk paintings unearthed in Astana, Turpan, Xinjiang. All women in Hu clothes have belts around their waists. The belt was originally an ornament of the northern nationalities, which was introduced to the Central Plains in Wei and Jin Dynasties. In the Tang Dynasty, it was once regarded as a necessary thing for all officials, and seven items, such as bags and knives, were hung on it, commonly known as "seven wastes". After Kaiyuan, ordinary officials stopped wearing them because of the new regulations of the imperial court. But it is very popular among folk women. Women who wear this kind of clothing have leather belts around their waists, and a few small belts often hang down from the leather belts, which are only decorative and have no use value. This painting depicts a maid in a Hu suit and a silk skirt.
(Early Tang Women's Dress)
Women's Clothing in Sui Dynasty Most of the daily clothes of women in Sui Dynasty are swallow rings, coats, tops and skirts. Short skirts are the most basic form. One of its characteristics is that the skirt waist is tied higher, generally above the waist, and some even tied under the armpit, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. This picture shows the wearing of short skirts, long skirts and narrow sleeves in the Sui Dynasty.
Random talk on women's clothing in Tang dynasty
If the theme of men's wear in ancient China is practical and solemn, then the style of women's wear is romantic, and women's wear in Tang Dynasty is the most beautiful chapter.
The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of China's feudal society, with a prosperous economy, developed culture, frequent foreign exchanges and an open world. Coupled with the influence of foreign ethnic minorities, women in the Tang Dynasty were less bound. In this unique era environment and social atmosphere, women's dresses in the Tang Dynasty have become one of the important symbols of Tang Wenhua with their numerous styles, gorgeous colors, innovative decorative techniques and elegant and gorgeous styles.
Women's clothing in Tang Dynasty can be divided into skirts, crowns, hats and shoes. According to the Tang system, there are four kinds of women's clothes, namely, court clothes, public clothes, sacrificial clothes and regular clothes. The first three are the size dresses worn by empresses in court meetings, sacrifices and other formal occasions, while the latter is for daily use. Women's uniforms in the Tang Dynasty were basically shirts and curtains on the upper body, skirts on the lower body and silk on the shoulders. This shirt is single-sleeved, padded and only as short as the waist. Skirts are long and numerous. In addition, there are coats, half arms and shirts. The coat is a jacket, which is longer than the jacket and shorter than the robe. Half-arm is a kind of short-sleeved bodice, which is worn outside the shirt and popular in the early Tang Dynasty. A blouse is a short and easy-to-take gown worn by women when they sing and dance. Its clothes are colorful, and red, green, purple and yellow are the most popular, such as "red skirt is jealous of pomegranate flowers", "lotus root skirt" and "Yujin skirt with bending over and dancing more". Moreover, there are many weaves and embroideries on shirts, rafts, jackets and skirts. As stated in the Tang Dynasty, The Newly Embroidered Luo includes silk, cotton cloth, kudzu vine, hemp and wool, among which silk is the most commonly used.
In addition, "contemporary makeup", topless clothes, men's wear and Hu clothing are also important costumes. "Contemporary makeup", that is, fashion, women's dresses in the early Tang Dynasty were small sleeve narrow dresses with half arms, silk shoulders and tight chests, with simple style; In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the dress gradually widened, the skirt waist moved down, and the clothing was gorgeous; In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, the dresses became more and more spacious, and women often praised them for their wide sleeves and bright colors. Naked collar clothes, men's wear, military uniforms and Hu clothes were widely popular among women in the Tang Dynasty, especially in its heyday. The topless collar dress is a kind of semi-topless sleeve shirt made of yarn. At that time, it was described as "slow-binding Luo skirt to cover the chest", "uneven shame to kill snow hibiscus" and "seeing the skin with thin lines on the front edge", which fully reflected the graceful figure and natural beauty of women in Tang Dynasty. Women in the Tang Dynasty like military uniforms and men's clothes. "Gong E in Military Uniforms Sweeps Her Eyebrows" depicts the scene of maids wearing military uniforms. During the reign of Wu Zong, Wang Cairen was often mistaken for the emperor by performers because he served with Wu Zong. Good things in the world will be effective in the afterlife. In the heyday of the Tang Dynasty, the wives of literati wore their husbands' clothes, hats and boots without exception, and the maids followed their mistresses in men's round neck suits, with hoes wrapped around their heads and black boots on their feet. Women in the Tang Dynasty had no other ideas from China and foreigners. During the reign of Tianbao in Kaiyuan, Han women dressed in tight-fitting Hu clothes with lapels, narrow sleeves and waists were everywhere in the streets and alleys of Chang 'an, Luoyang and other metropolises, which reflected the spirit of women's openness and bodybuilding in the prosperous Tang Dynasty.
Women's hair mainly wears all kinds of hats and combs. Wearing a cap, the first row went on stage, the second row of curtain caps, and then Hu Mao. In the early Tang Dynasty, women had the custom of "covering their faces". When going out, women wear power, which is a big square towel. Generally, it is made of thin and transparent gauze, which covers the body and the whole body. During the reign of Emperor Gaozong, with the opening of social atmosphere, he changed to wear a "skirt-to-neck" curtain hat. In the prosperous new century, women simply took off their hats and went out in a bun, or followed the example of men and conference semifinals, wrapped in hoes and dressed in colorful Hu Mao. Hu Mao originated from the Western Regions and Tubo, and its shape is novel and changeable. Some have rolled eaves with empty tops, some are equipped with upturned hat ears, and some are decorated with fur along the brim. In addition, if you go out for a long trip, you should also wear a hood to avoid dust.
In the Tang Dynasty, women wore shoes, boots and shoes. Shoes are made of fabrics such as nylon, hemp, silk and twill. And straw sandals made of cattail. Embroidery is often added to shoes, which have various head shapes, such as round head, high head, cloud shape, flower shape, etc. For example, as the Tang poetry says, "Clouds tread on temple shoes", "Golden wrinkles weigh platform shoes" and "cluster shoes are red and thin". Boots are mostly made of brocade, which is successfully woven and beautifully decorated. Used barefoot in summer, it is deeply loved by folk women. For example, Li Bai's poem says, "My feet are like frost, and I don't need crow's head socks".
Women in the Tang Dynasty pursued beauty and accessories, and their makeup and accessories were rich in content, including hairstyles, headdresses, faces and accessories. Women's hair styles are mainly comb-bun, or tied on the top of the head or behind the head, with very rich shapes. There are dozens of names, such as Banzhuan bun, Yunji bun, Wandering bun, Jing Gu bun, Japanese pendant bun, Double Ring Wang Xian bun, Uman bun, Uighur bun, etc. The bun in the early Tang Dynasty was simple and flat. After the prosperous Tang Dynasty, high bun became popular, with various styles. Hair accessories include hair clips, hair sticks, walking, victory, uranium, flowers and so on. Most of them are made of jade, gold, silver, tortoiseshell and other materials, with exquisite craftsmanship. Hairpins are often used in pairs. They are inserted horizontally, obliquely or backward. Walking and shaking is one of the best products. The hair stick head is made into a bird-beak-shaped bead string, which swings with the walk and doubles the charm. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, women also popularized comb insertion and decorated their hair with delicate and beautiful flowers.
There are many methods of facial makeup, such as painting aluminum powder, rouge, black eyebrows, applique cymbals, face cymbals, oblique red, lip grease and so on. Make-up people pick two or three, and make full use of them. Lead powder is white in color and delicate in texture. It is "white and bright" when applied to face, neck and chest. Rouge is a paste pigment made from the extracted red and blue flower juice, pig fat and bovine bone marrow. Due to the preference of emperors and literati, women's eyebrows are varied. Xuanzong once ordered painters to draw ten eyebrow paintings in Sichuan, including Yuanyang eyebrow, mountain eyebrow and inverted eyebrow. Eyebrows are mainly wide eyebrows, which were generally drawn longer in the early Tang Dynasty, and short eyebrows became popular after the prosperous Tang Dynasty. Flower bud is a kind of forehead decoration, which is cut into various flower shapes with gold foil, black paper, mica, fish cheekbones and other materials, especially plum blossom, which is the most common and attached to the brow. Noodles are painted with rouge on the dimples of cheeks, or with gold foil like flowers. Oblique red is a fashion for women in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, with two red crescent patterns painted on cheeks and temples. Neat shapes are like strings and the moon, and complicated ones look like scars.
Necklaces, collars and garlands are decorated with necklaces, armbands and bracelets, while Yu Pei and sachets are decorated with waist ornaments. The garland was originally a decoration between the necks of Buddha statues, which was introduced to China from India with Buddhism and was loved by maids and maidens in the Tang Dynasty. Its upper part is a semi-circular metal collar, and the lower part is a necklace made of jade. Some still hang a big lock-shaped ornament on their chests, which is luxurious and glittering as a whole. Armband, also known as jump, is an ornament made of metal wire wound in many turns, shaped like a spring, or combined with several bracelets. It is worn on the arm and is deeply loved by ladies and gentlemen. The sachets are mostly made of gold and silver, hollowed out, and the upper and lower hemispheres are locked by the mouths of children and mothers. There are two concentric rings inside, and there is a small incense burner in the ring. The concentric ring and the small gold burner are connected by symmetrical movable shafts. No matter how it is rotated, the ashes in the incense burner will not overflow.
Women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty not only added luster to the splendid Tang Wenhua, but also influenced women's clothing life and culture in later generations, and became a wonderful flower in the ancient culture and art garden of China.
It is common for men in the Tang Dynasty to wear round neck robes, especially robes. Wotou, also known as Fu Tou, is a primitive costume formed on the basis of the Han and Wei Dynasties. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament to the hoe, called "towel". The shape of towels varies from time to time. Besides towels, many changes have taken place in the feet of steamed bread. By the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the original soft foot had become a hard foot with one left and one right. Officials in the Tang Dynasty mainly wore round neck and narrow sleeves, and their colors have been stipulated: all officials with more than three products should use purple; More than five products, blushing for color; Six products and seven products are green; Eight products and nine products are cyan. There will be slight changes in the future. In addition, the application of horizontal bow under the robe was also a major feature of men's wear at that time. This soil is a hoe-wrapped official, wearing a round neck robe and black boots (mural of Li Chongrun's tomb in Gan County, Shaanxi Province).