There are many kinds of clothes in the Tang Dynasty. It boldly absorbs the characteristics of foreign costumes from appearance to decoration, and draws lessons from foreign costumes in Central Asia, India, Iran, Persia, North China, the Western Regions and other places, enriching the costume culture of the Tang Dynasty and making it colorful, magnificent and exotic.
The textile industry laid a solid foundation in the Sui Dynasty and developed greatly in the Tang Dynasty. Silk reeling and printing and dyeing technology have also reached a fairly high level. There are many kinds of clothing materials, and the output and quality have reached an unprecedented height.
Women's wear was the most eye-catching in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. Women in the Tang Dynasty emphasized matching dresses, each of which was a unique overall image. People are not on a whim, but according to their social background, the beauty of clothing art is brought to the extreme. So each collocation has its own distinct personality and interesting cultural background.
Women's clothing in Tang Dynasty can be roughly divided into three types, namely, a skirt, a full set of men's clothing bravely worn by breaking Confucian etiquette norms, and Hu clothing introduced by western culture.
skirt
The traditional skirt with a short skirt and a long skirt under it may not be novel, but the women in the Tang Dynasty made it look brand-new. The skirt in Tang suit has long and soft lines, which is very beautiful and comfortable. The material used is mainly silk, so its clothes are famous for their softness and softness. At that time, in the alternating fashion of round neck, square collar, oblique collar, straight collar and chicken heart collar, it was an innovative move that never appeared in the previous dynasty to simply open a blouse or gown into a bare collar. At first, it was mainly worn by court concubines and kabuki. But it soon caught the attention of officials and ladies, which showed that people in the Tang Dynasty were very open-minded.
Confucian classics clearly stipulate that clothes should be used to wrap the body tightly, especially women. Like Tang Nv, the style that the collar is low enough to expose the cleavage above the breast is unprecedented in the ancient China society with strict etiquette. In the Tang Dynasty, Natalie (date of birth and death unknown) and Zhou Fang (date of birth and death unknown) painted gorgeous and plump women in the palace. In Zhou Fang's Beauty Picture, a beautiful woman is wearing an ankle-length dress with a large sleeve gauze shirt over her upper body, covering her breasts lightly. Because the painter's technique is realistic, he not only faithfully depicts the delicate and transparent materials of the Tang Dynasty, but also vividly depicts the soft shoulders and arms of women.
The picture of a beautiful woman (part)
In the Tang Dynasty, the beauty of fullness and profusion was advocated, and peony was appreciated when appreciating flowers. Men without shoulders and women without necks were emphasized, and horses should have small heads, thick necks and big hips. It is not difficult to see in the paintings of the Tang Dynasty that Tang Nv made six, eight and twelve skirts to show her fullness, which is not enough, so the style of raising the skirt waist to the armpit appeared, so that the woman's waist could not be seen, and only a circle could be seen.
For the description of Tang skirts, the poet almost tried his best to write wonderful poems. Besides styles, there are many references about skirt colors. As can be seen from the poem, the skirt of that year was quite rich in color, with few official constraints, and it could be as good as everyone else. Only the colors are crimson, apricot yellow, deep purple, moon green, grass green, turmeric and so on. Among them, pomegranate red skirt has the longest popularity. The pomegranate skirt is described in the poems of Li Bai, Du Fu and Bai Juyi. The Song of Yanjing in May describes the popularity of pomegranate skirts, saying that pomegranate flowers are full of rich and gorgeous pomegranate red, and thousands of families buy pomegranate flowers to dye skirts for women at home. You can imagine how spectacular it is. Turmeric skirt is also dyed with plant color, but this plant is a perennial herb of Zingiberaceae, which is different from tulip originated in Asia Minor. The sap of its hypertrophy rhizome and spindle-shaped tuber can dye cloth and give off fragrance.
In the mid-Tang Dynasty, the princess's bird skirt was a masterpiece in China's textile and embroidery history. Its skirt is made of bird feathers, one color in the daytime, one color in the light, one color in front and one color in the back. The skirt presents the shape of a bird, which is wonderful. Women's skirts are not only skirts under tops, but also other styles to supplement or decorate, such as half-arms, short-sleeved shirts. Modern people wear it in summer, but when Tang Nv wears it, he often wears it outside a long-sleeved shirt, which is a bit like a vest. Because the sleeve length is between vest and long sleeve, it is called half arm. It looks graceful and has a wonderful posture.
Women in the Tang Dynasty liked to wear wallets or silk on their arms. The difference between these two kinds of ornaments is that one is wide and the other is short, and they are usually worn on one shoulder. This lifelike effect can be seen from the unearthed female figurines of the Tang Dynasty. Legend has it that there was an open-air banquet in the palace, and Tang Ming gave a big banquet to his ministers. A gust of wind blew Yang Guifei's wallet onto He's hat (it was a hat wrapped in a black silk towel). From this point of view, it may be very light, but of course, it does not rule out the possibility of using heavy wool to keep out the cold. Silk is what we usually call "ribbon". It is long and narrow. It walks forward from the back, drapes over the forearm, and its ends naturally droop. Later generations will never forget this wonderful silk when painting fairies and ladies in ancient costumes.
The foot clothes that match the skirt are cockatoo brocade shoes, linen woven shoes or straw sandals, which are soft but delicate and light. In addition to providing us with image data through paintings, we can also see objects in cultural relics unearthed in Xinjiang and other places.
When Tang Nv wears a skirt, he usually doesn't wear a hat. Of course, the corolla is decorative, and he wears a curtain hat to hang the yarn when he goes out. This kind of curtain hat became popular in the early Tang Dynasty, and in the prosperous Tang Dynasty, women even disdained to wear it, and simply rode in a bun. The steamed stuffed bun is covered with gold ornaments, flowers and silk flower that looks like real flowers. Today, we can also see all kinds of exquisite gold and silver jewelry and silk flower objects among the unearthed cultural relics.
Full men's wear
Guo's wife You Chuntu.
Compared with fancy skirts, the whole set of men's wear has a different feeling. Typical men's clothing in Tang Dynasty is wearing a hat, a round neck gown, a waist belt and black leather six-in-one boots. This kind of dress makes men wear smart, chic and elegant, while women wear handsome and playful clothes, washing away lead. Although Confucian classics have long stipulated that "men and women can't get clothes". Old Tang book? It is recorded in Yu Fu Zhi and China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times that women in the Tang Dynasty wore men's clothes, including boots, robes, whips and hats, regardless of their status, even at home or out. It can be seen that the society in the Tang Dynasty was open and there were few restrictions on women.
"Tang Shu? Yu Fuzhi once said, "At the beginning of the Kaiyuan period, people riding horses in the imperial palace all used Hu Mao's beauty to show people, and the gentry's house followed suit, so the system of hanging hats was useless. Russia is also galloping, still has her husband's clothes, boots and shirts, and the respect inside and outside is the same. "New Tang book? Che Fuzhi also said, "After Zhongzong ..... imperial officials wore hats on horseback, which was effective at home, until the bun galloped, and the curtain caps were also abolished. They wear men's clothes and boots, just like the clothes of Xi Qidan people. "This masculine fashion of women's clothing is caused by external influences." The Biography of Luoyang Galand tells the story of Naoto Kan, a vulgar woman who wears a shirt and a belt and walks in a horse pond like her husband. " "Literature pass? On the custom of occupying the city in the fourth generation examination. "Women also wear a bun at the back of their heads without combing, and their clothes are the same as those of men."
This kind of women's wear and men's wear can be found in the line drawing of Princess Yongtai in Tang Dynasty, the line drawing of headstones, the murals of tombs in Tang Dynasty, the Lady Fan of Tang Dynasty, the Lady You Chun of Guo Dynasty, and the CaveNo. 17 of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes in the 26th year of Guangxu in Qing Dynasty (AD 65438).
Khufu
In the Tang dynasty, aristocratic ladies preferred to wear Hu clothes, and it was a fashion to wear Hu clothes with a waist. "Khufu" is the costume of western people. There are many Hu figurines of Tang suit and Hu fu hoe unearthed in cultural relics archaeology, and there are more than 50 Hu figurines among the funerary objects unearthed in Ganling's burial tomb. The excavation of these Hu figurines shows that the culture of the western regions has influenced the social life of the Tang Dynasty and had a far-reaching impact on the costumes, music and dance of the Han nationality. At that time, the policy of the Tang Dynasty towards foreigners was relatively open. People "worshiped Hu customs, put on Hu makeup, wore Hu clothes, used Hu utensils, ate Hu dishes, enjoyed Hu music, liked Hu dance, fascinated Hu opera and Hu Feng, and spread all over the world.
During Kaiyuan and Tianbao years, most women wore narrow-sleeved shirts, long skirts, China silk on their shoulders, long belts around their waists and high-heeled shoes. Old Tang book? "Jade Fu Zhi" says: "In the last years of Kaiyuan, it was too common to play Hu Qu, and princes and nobles only ate Hu, and ladies and gentlemen all wore it." Shen Kuo's Meng Qian Bi Tan (Volume 1) said: "China's clothes have been Khufu's since the Northern Dynasties. Narrow sleeves are dark green, short clothes and boots. " In Tang poetry, Liu Yanshi's Watching Dancing Huteng, Hu Shirt with Small Sleeves, Li He's Ci of Qin Gong, small sleeve's Singing a Parrot, Bai Juyi's Ci of Philosophy, and Xiang Shirt with Narrow Sleeves all describe the atmosphere at that time.
The form of the belt is also deeply influenced by Khufu. Before this, people's waist ornaments were made of gold, silver, copper and iron. At this time, "water belt" with gold ornaments was popular, and the belt for tying things was short and small. This kind of belt was the most popular in the Tang Dynasty and lasted until the Northern Song Dynasty. After the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the influence of Khufu gradually weakened, and the styles of women's clothes became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. Generally speaking, women's sleeves are often more than four feet wide.
Khufu
Tang dynasty dance costumes
Dance costume is the sublimation of life costume, and also the aesthetic guide of life costume. Dancers in the Han Dynasty usually wore high hair and big sleeves. The Biography of Mario recorded a proverb in Chang 'an at that time: "The city is so high that the square inch is one foot high; The city is full of eyebrows, with a half forehead; There are big sleeves in the city, and all sides are woven. " It can be seen that urban dance costumes have a great influence on society.
China's dance has two different functions. One is a dance subordinate to political etiquette. It is a continuation of China's primitive dance, which was combined with primitive witchcraft from the beginning, with a mythical color. Later, it combined with the political ethics of class society and became an indispensable part of the etiquette of the ruling class. The other is more entertaining, and its low-level form is various folk dances; The advanced form belongs to the spiritual and cultural enjoyment of the upper class.
With the increase of social economy and foreign cultural exchanges, the exchange of dance art is becoming more and more frequent. "Lin Yulang" by Xin Yannian in the later Han Dynasty: "Hu Ji is fifteen years old, coming alone in spring, with a long skirt and wide sleeves." It shows that the dance of the western regions flowed into the Central Plains with the smooth flow of the Silk Road, which was praised by the upper class in China. The poem "Little Hanging Hands" by Liang Jian Wendi in the Southern Dynasties: "Dancers come out of the Western Qin Dynasty to dance in spring, but they hang their hands, and their sleeves should be folded back, and their feet should become towels ..." It shows that the dancers in Hexi, which is very close to Xiqiao, are also the most popular dances in the Southern and Northern Dynasties.
Dance music in the Tang Dynasty was unprecedentedly prosperous. According to the general examination of the six classics and documents in the Tang Dynasty, there were dozens of dances in the Tang Dynasty. The "Ode to Watching Dance" written by the direct students of the Tang Taizong History Museum describes the dancers "dragging their silk skirts, parting their feathers, curling their hair, the strings are seamless, the sound is full, the incense is scattered and the towel is flying, and the light is flowing." It can be seen that at that time, the comprehensive effect of song and dance, volume, music and clothing was attached great importance.
Most of the dances in the Tang Dynasty had stereotyped costumes, such as the "Seven Virtues Dance" with armor and halberd. The "Nine Arts Dance" wore a fairy crown (a very luxurious crown between a fairy crown and a child crown) and purple trousers. "Shangyuan Dance" is painted with clouds and colors. "Da Ding Dance" is wearing colorful armor and holding hands. "Hand Dance" has gold and bronze crowns and five-color paintings. "Dance of Light" wore a black crown and colorful clothes. "Banquet dance" is a robe, and silk cloth is a dress. "Dance of Immortality" is full of clothes and paintings. "Long live the dance" is full of sleeves, and the parrot pigeon crown is painted as a bird image. "Dragon Pool Dance" is dressed in five-color tulle and hibiscus flowers, and it is leisurely. "Lion Dance" two people hold a rope to grasp the brush and wear the shape of Kunlun. "Jing Yun Dance" takes brocade as the robe and five twill weaves as the quilt, which is the crown of Lv Yun.
The musicians in the inverted cup dance are wearing yellow shirts and jade belts. "Wu Wen" wears a crown, big sleeves and silk, white collar and white gauze, crimson collar and big mouth, black shoes and white socks. "Wu Dance" uses a flat towel hat, gold silk cloth sleeves, gold silk cloth crotch (the crotch is a short-sleeved shirt worn outside the sleeve without covering the sleeve), platinum ornaments to cover the crotch, and a brocade snake (Jin is a watch, eight feet long, really cotton, like a snake) uses a waist seal. Five dancers in Sitting Dance embroidered clothes, each holding a golden lotus flower. "Bashu Dance" is a painting achievement, with long clothes and short military uniforms. "Nishang Dance" is colorful and colorful, full of Pei Shanshan.
These dances generally belong to China dances with traditional etiquette scenes. The other kind belongs to the popular dance introduced from the western regions, and the dance costumes they wear also have a strong exotic flavor. Such as the folding branch dance, Hu Xuan dance and Hu Teng dance widely sung by poets in the Tang Dynasty. Bai Juyi's "The Prostitute of the Philosopher" "The purple shirt moves the philosopher, and the cymbals hang on the hips." Another poem "The Philosopher's Ci" is "The embroidered hat beads are thick, and the fragrant shirt sleeves are narrow." Zhang Hu's "Member Zhou looks at the philosopher from the outside", "The brocade is foggy and red, and the silver vine has purple flowers." There is also "Looking at Yang Yuanzhi's Zhezhi", "When the brim is covered with a fake hat belt, the purple shirt is squatting in the room, and the red brocade boots are soft." And "Looking at Hangzhou Zhezhi", "The red shirt is wrapped around the wrist, the blue row is square and the waist is back, and the golden pendulum beats, but the footsteps are overwhelming." "Li Jia Zhe Ke" also said: "Red lead brush face and thin waist, gold embroidered shirt is soft." Also, "I feel that General Wang Zhezhi is a prostitute" and "Where are you throwing Yuanyang Peacock?" Red or purple embroidered or hand-painted narrow-sleeved pullovers, beaded hats with rolled eaves, red brocade boots and decorative streamers are the basic costumes for the dance of philosophy.
"Hu Xuan Dance" and "Hu Teng Dance" are characterized by rotating dance with the rhythm of strings and drums. Sometimes they stand on a small ball and turn around, and their feet never leave the ball. Dance costumes are also pointed hats, small sleeve Hu shirts, precious belts and brocade boots.
The design of dance costumes in the Tang Dynasty is very meticulous in pursuing novelty and thinking. The clothes recorded in Jiao Fangji Shengshoule are embroidered with a large group of flowers on the skirt, and then a blouse of the same color as the embroidered one is caged outside the embroidered one. When the dancers appeared, the audience saw that they were wearing only one kind of monochrome clothes. When the dance reached the second lap, "the dancers gathered at the scene and immediately took off the cage from the collar and put it in their arms." The audience watched in surprise as women embroidered ice rings. "Fashion designers combine fashion and dance processes to consider time and space effects, giving the audience an illusion of freshness. This design concept is excellent.
There are various forms of dance costumes in the Tang Dynasty, and there are rich image materials in cave murals, sculptures, pottery figurines and paintings in the Tang Dynasty.