The costume features of ancient Europe, Japan and China are as follows:

European classical clothing

Clothing is one of the symbols of civilization, and clothing customs reflect the characteristics of national culture and the living conditions and psychological characteristics of people in an era. Europe was ruled by Christianity in the Middle Ages, and Christianity had a great influence on European clothing. Because Christianity despises money and opposes luxury, "in the Middle Ages, the clothes of the lower classes were simple and plain, and women did not dress up and donated jewelry to the church. The uniforms are mainly white long skirts and sleeves, and the colors are simple. "

The development of European classical clothing

Under the religious rule in the Middle Ages, the colors and styles of European clothing were monotonous, and the colors were still black, gray and white, and the clothing styles were mainly floor-sweeping robes. The luxurious toga robe in ancient Rome was abandoned.

In the early Middle Ages, Europeans wore simple clothes, and civilians and nobles wore the same clothes. In the eighth and ninth centuries, men's wear had underwear coats, which were quite similar to the ancient robes in China, but they were tight. Pants are long enough to fit the feet, with short crotch and a belt under the navel. Long or short socks are worn on feet, and sometimes strips of cloth are wrapped from feet to legs. Nobles and upper-class people put a rectangular or round cloak on their coats, which is fixed on one shoulder or tied to their chests; Workers' coats are shorter. Charlemagne of France "only wears Frankish clothes-linen pants with tight ties, sweaters and coats with belts" (History of Medieval and Modern Culture by the Commercial Press, 1935, p. 53). Wear an otter or mink coat and cloak outside in winter. Nobles have wide ribbons around their waists to tighten their clothes and wear swords, while civilians are not allowed to wear swords; Linen and wool are the main materials. Oriental silk is expensive, priced with the same amount of gold, and only a few nobles can wear it. Described the Song of Roland (France) and the death of King Arthur (England). The grade difference of clothing is mainly manifested in the different texture and origin of clothing. Nobles wear fine linen, wool cloaks made in Italy, and valuable furs such as mink in winter. Civilians only wear coarse linen and woolen goods. Women's dress is a tight robe, which is ankle-length. Sleeves are long and narrow, and a loose robe is worn outside. Sleeves are shorter than robes. The neckline of a long skirt is relatively wide, and the neckline and sleeve seam can have various decorative edges. The cloak fell from your head.

/kloc-in the 0/0 century, men's wear became more intimate. British men's tights are close-fitting in the upper part and knee-deep in the lower part, and are loosely stretched. Tights are pullovers. The tights are covered with cloaks and pinned to the chest with large pins. At this time, the women's dress is widened, the sleeves are lengthened with fat, the hair is covered with shawls, and the body is covered with cloaks. Their underwear is very long, straight to the ground, and their coats are also dragged to their knees. Round sleeves and gorgeous clothes are very influenced by Byzantium. Their hair was covered with a veil, and its end was heavier than their back and was dragged directly to the ground. In the 12 century, loose clothes became thin and narrow, which made the body curve stand out. Tie it at the back, the sleeves are gradually widened, and the cuffs can hang down to the knees.

/kloc-in the 0/2 century, a round cake headdress appeared, which can protect the eyes from sun and heat, and is mainly worn by Crusaders. The front opening style of coats is popular, and the front opening is divided into two pieces. Women's clothing is a strappy tights, the top is close to the body, and the bottom is a wide dress. The two parts are sewn together with thread, and the sleeves are very loose. The cutting method is to cut the upper and lower clothes separately and then sew them together, as before.

Big cloth is different.

/kloc-in the 0/3rd century, men's and women's clothing tends to be consistent. Men's wear also includes tights and various coats, round cake headdresses, hat-shaped decorative sleeves and chest shawls. There are stockings and boots and shoes below. This man is wearing a small Central Asian hat. At this time, protective coats are popular and suitable for travel. This kind of coat is a big shawl, with an open chest and a seam beside it, so that the arms can stretch out and move. In addition, closed vest coats were popular in this period. The upper body is like a vest, and the lower body can reach the knees. This sleeveless gown, with shoulders extending to both sides, becomes a hat-shaped decorative sleeve. In the13rd century, the length of laborers' robes varied. Men's jackets are knee-length, short-sleeved, with heels under their feet, and there is a round hole in the heels of trousers, which is convenient to put on and take off. Wearing a big linen pants in summer, with bare upper body,

Wear jackets and sleeveless pullovers in winter. Women wear robes with seams in the middle, which can facilitate labor. When harvesting, the skirt pocket can hold crops. At that time, farmers were forbidden to wear good materials and colorful clothes.

After 14 and 15 centuries, European clothing began to change. Due to the prosperity of economy, the development of agriculture, commerce and handicrafts, the exchange of international trade and the influence of oriental civilization, many changes have taken place in European clothing. Noble men and women pursue fashion, aristocratic women compete for beauty, and men are informal. There are more obvious differences between the clothes of nobles and civilians; Clothing styles have changed, and there are more varieties of clothing materials. The medieval costumes in The Legend of the Giant include silks and satins, silk-wool blended fabrics, woolen fabrics, Damascus, stripes, tweed, gold satin and various furs. Clothes include coats, coats, coats, jackets, shorts, shirts and shawls, and women have long skirts and evening dresses. Ornaments include rosaries, rings, chains, precious stones, diamonds, emeralds, pearls, agates and so on. Clothing strives to get rid of ancient customs and pursue fashion. Decorations and buttons in oriental clothes are absorbed by Europeans. Men's coats are lined with buttons or gems, and even underwear buttons are decorated with gems and buttons.

/kloc-popular men's wear in the 0/4th century, with two layers of clothes, very close to the body, reasonable sleeve design, free movement of arms, convenient for whole body activities. There are more than a dozen buttons on the coat, and the inner lining of the coat has a thin belt to connect the upper end of the stovepipe pants with it; Wear a tight coat outside the coat, and a turtleneck coat appeared at the end of 14; The collar covers the ears, the collar behind the neck covers the back of the head, and the hem is dragged to the ground; The cloak of this period was fixed on the body with a set of buttons, and its appearance was round, long and wide. Women's dresses are mainly sleeveless coats and sleeveless gowns. Made of a piece of cloth, with a wide neckline and a low neckline. This is/kloc-a topless shirt popular among European women in the 4th century. The neckline is round, angular, square and wide, exposing the upper part of the chest. Upper body sleeveless short sleeves, shirtless, high belt. Both men's and women's clothes pay attention to decoration. Men's trousers and shoes are integrated, with leather soles and bottomless boots with spurs. Tight-fitting men's trousers are worn separately with two trouser legs and covered by a long coat at the front and back. Later, the coat became shorter and shorter and became a jacket coat. /kloc-in the 0 th and 5 th centuries, the coat was shorter and became a shameful dress. Women's topless evening dresses and men's jackets were opposed by priests.

/kloc-A dyed garment was popular in the 4th century, with one color on the left side of the coat, one color on the right side, and one color on the left and right legs of the trousers. The whole body was dyed in four parts. /kloc-At the beginning of the 0/5th century, the clothes of trainee knights were composed of black, white and light green from hat to boots. Red, black, green and purple are very popular. Pants, shoes, hats and vests can be divided like this. Pants can be purple inside and black outside.

Family emblem is the most common pattern embroidered on clothes in the Middle Ages. The family emblem was originally a symbol of identifying the enemy and ourselves in the Crusades, and later became a symbol of extended families and ordinary citizens' families. /kloc-in the 0/4th century, the wind of respecting the body and the family prevailed. Many large family emblems are embroidered on women's clothes, and married women embroider their husbands' family emblems around their clothes.

/kloc-in the 0/5th century, women's clothing was similar to men's clothing, with loose long clothes tied around the waist, coats tied with wide ribbons, and short swords hanging from their bodies. Men wore small hats and pointed shoes.

Hairstyles and hat styles of medieval women. In the 12 century, women used to comb their hair at the back and tie two braids on their cheeks. In the 13- 14 century, women wrapped their heads in square white linen and tied them to their heads, or pinned them to their ears with hairpins, only showing their faces. There are many styles of headscarves in the middle ages, some of which are very similar to those of modern nuns, all the way to the neck. Young girls can wear crowns on festivals, but married people are not allowed. /kloc-In the 5th century, under the influence of Gothic spire architecture, similar aesthetic clothing, such as V-neck, pointed shoes and new hat, was produced. The Xin 'an cap is conical, the inside is shaped with iron wire or paste, the tip is at a 40-degree angle, and the height is 9 inches to 3 feet. Hat hanging yarn (high-grade linen), fixed with a ring, the front can be velvet. Hats are expensive. A hat has one horn and two horns, and some have wings.

There are many kinds of shoes in the middle ages, including leather boots, boots, boots, slippers and so on. Leg straps and wristbands are made of leather and wool. Farmers often wear wooden shoes. Nobles wear pointed shoes, and sometimes their toes are particularly long. The length of toes represents the status of the wearer. Generally speaking, it is six inches, twelve inches for gentlemen and fourteen inches for nobles. The royal family is not restricted and the poor are not allowed to wear it.

Priests always wear black robes and hoods; But the hairstyle has changed. In the 8th century, monks began to shave their hair, and the ceremony was "haircut style". In Greece or Eastern Europe, the hairstyle is to shave all the hair or cut it very short, which is called "Sao Paulo style". In Rome, the hairstyle is to shave off a round piece on the head and leave the hair, which is called "St. Peter's style". Shaving a monk's hair is a sign of humility and dedication to God. `

In the 14 and 15 centuries, the ruling class in Europe pursued luxury and enjoyment, ignoring religious precepts, especially in clothing. "Whether it is a noble or a lady, it is like a child who likes new clothes and new decorations. This is an era of extravagance and waste. Men wear pointed shoes and women wear a foot-high conical hat. " At this time, people made a coat out of the skins of 3,000 squirrels, and the Duke of Orleans embroidered a poem on his sleeve with 700 beads. "

Under the rule of Christianity in the Middle Ages, people's pursuit of the beauty of clothing was regarded as frivolous behavior, and the struggle between abstinence and anti-abstinence was also manifested in clothing. According to the standard of beauty, people constantly promoted the development of clothing, and it was not until the Renaissance that the development of clothing changed greatly.

Byzantium brought silk garments from the Far East through Persia, or made them from silk threads. Men's wear has tights and sleeves, and the front is decorated with a lock. The clothes are knee-length and the sleeves are different in length. There is a belt around the waist. The long cloak is a formal celebration costume, with beautiful colored pendants embedded in the front and back of the cloak. A shawl is a long pleated cloth that is fixed on the shoulder.

Women's clothes include cloaks and shawls (long coats for the royal queen), which evolved from Christian vestments. A woman's coat is as short as her hips and as long as her ankles. Outdoor clothing is a long cloak that hangs from the head and covers the whole body. Noble women's clothes are inlaid with gold, silver, precious stones, pearls and agates, and working women wear sleeveless or short-sleeved tops, which are waist-length. As can be seen from the portrait of Queen Justinian, she is dressed in extreme luxury, wearing a long skirt that covers her feet. The skirt is as wide as a skirt, the sleeves are as narrow as the wrists, and the cuffs are tight. All kinds of ribbons are tied around the waist, clothes are decorated with all kinds of gems, pearls and gems are hung on the chest, hats are decorated with all kinds of gems, and earrings hang down. Some of its clothing styles are European, and its silk fabrics and gem ornaments are produced in the East.

Japanese clothes

Japanese traditional national costume. Weigh objects in Japanese.

In ancient Japan, a hooded garment with sleeves was used for a long time, and it was called "small sleeve", which was a combination of the body in the south and the sleeve in the north, and there were eight holes (air holes) under the sleeve. Since the 3rd century A.D., China robes have been introduced into Japan and exerted an influence. "small sleeve" has continuously absorbed the characteristics of Wu clothing (Wu clothing in the Three Kingdoms period of China, Wu clothing in the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period), Tang clothing (Tang clothing in China) and Chinese clothing in the Ming Dynasty, and developed into the "length" of knee-wide cuffs in the Muromachi period (1338 ~ 1573).

Kimonos are divided into men's wear, women's wear, children's wear, single sleeves and double sleeves, as well as "wearing" (outer robe) and "wearing" (inner robe). Kimono is usually ankle-long, with a cross collar, a right shoulder, wide sleeves, eight legs, no buttons, and a belt with a family emblem printed on it. Men's kimonos are made of black, brown, gray, dark blue and other colors, or fabrics with fine squares, dots and bird's eyes. Women's kimonos usually use brightly colored silk fabrics with exquisite embroidery, painting and accessories. The women's kimono belt (Obi) is woven or embroidered with silks and satins. It is about 3 ~ 5m long and 25 ~ 40cm wide. It is usually woven piece by piece, without cutting, wrapped between the waist and chest, knotted at the back, and elegant in eyes. There are more than 200 kinds. There is a small pad in the back middle of the belt to support the folds of the belt. In various social activities, kimono has always been deeply loved by the Japanese people.

Characteristics of kimono

Kimono belongs to plane cutting, almost all of which are composed of straight lines, which means that the beauty of kimono is created by straight lines. Kimono has almost no curve, but the collar has a 20 cm cut, and the extra parts are stacked together when wearing the collar. If the kimono is disassembled, people can see that the cloth used to make the kimono is still a complete rectangle. Because the cutting and making of kimono have the above characteristics, it is more free in cutting. When making kimono, people seldom have the influence of receptor type. People of different sizes, even wearing kimonos of the same size, rarely give people the impression that their clothes don't fit. Because it can vary from person to person, adjust the waist size. Although kimono is basically composed of straight lines and inserted into the body in a straight tube shape, it lacks the display of human body curves, but it can show solemnity, stability and tranquility, which conforms to the Japanese temperament. Not only that, kimono also conforms to the nature of Japan; Most parts of Japan are warm and humid, so ventilation of clothes is very important. Because the kimono is loose, there are as many as eight air holes in the clothes, and the sleeves, lapels and welts of the kimono can be opened and closed freely, which is very suitable for the local climate in Japan.

There are "similarities" and "differences" in the styles and ways of wearing various kimonos. It is these "differences" that make clothing have an important function: to show identity, age and social class. Take the women's kimono as an example, this "small difference" is mainly manifested in the sleeves. Kimono sleeves can be roughly divided into "black sleeves", "colored sleeves", "local sleeves" and "medium sleeves", and so on.

1. "Keep sleeves", that is, the sleeves are relatively short.

2. "Black Sleeves" kimonos are often decorated with exquisite patterns. This is a kind of clothing for middle-aged women, which is usually worn in more grand and solemn occasions, such as weddings and banquets.

3. "color sleeves" are kimonos of various colors. People who wear clothes are younger than those who wear "black sleeves", and they also wear dresses on grand occasions.

4. "Vibrating sleeves" is a traditional costume of unmarried young women in Japan, which is luxurious and usually only worn at celebrations, graduation and New Year (even now, few people wear this kimono). "Vibrating sleeves" are long sleeves, often as long as 1 m and hanging down to the ankles.

In addition, there is a kind of kimono called "color without land", which is usually worn. There is no pattern in Color Without Land, but there is color.

China's clothes

Since ancient times, the monarch has been the way to govern the country, and clothing is a very important item. When the clothing system is completed, the political order will be partially completed. Traditionally, in China, clothing is a part of politics, and its importance far exceeds the status of clothing in modern society.

Social clothes

It was written by people in the Warring States Period, and < World Book > later mentioned that Huangdi, Hu Cao or Apollo created clothes. Judging from the unearthed cultural relics, the origin of costume history can be traced back to the late Paleolithic period in primitive society. There are 1 root bone needle and 1, 4 1 diamond, bone, shell and tooth ornaments in Zhoukoudian Neanderthal Site in Beijing (about 1.9 million years ago). Facts have proved that simple clothes can be sewn with natural materials such as animal skins. The history of China's clothing culture originated from this. About 1 0,000 years ago, it entered the Neolithic Age, the invention of textile technology and the artificial weaving of clothing materials. The form of clothing has changed and its function has been improved. Cloak-style clothing, such as full-length clothes and single clothes, has become typical clothing, and its accessories are becoming more and more complicated, which has a great influence on the formation of clothing system. After the appearance of textiles, through-head clothing developed into a stereotyped clothing style, which was widely used in a long period of time, a very broad region and many ethnic groups, basically replacing the Paleolithic component clothing and becoming a rough type of human clothing. In the Neolithic Age, in addition to ordinary clothes, crowns, boots, headdresses and decorations were also found in some pottery relics.

Shangzhou clothing

From Shang Dynasty to Western Zhou Dynasty, the system of upper and lower dresses, crown dresses and service seals was gradually established. Clothing materials in Shang Dynasty were mainly leather, leather, silk and hemp. Due to the progress of textile technology, silk and linen fabrics have occupied an important position. Shang people were able to weave extremely thin silk, jacquard geometric patterns, tulle and Reno fabrics on twisting looms. This material is very dark in color. In the Western Zhou Dynasty, the hierarchical system was gradually established, and the Zhou Dynasty set up the official positions of "Si Fu" and "Inner Si Fu" to take charge of the royal costumes. According to the literature records and the analysis of unearthed cultural relics, China's crown service system was initially established in the Xia and Shang Dynasties, and was perfected in the Zhou Dynasty, the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. In order to show honor and dignity, royal officials and ministers should wear their crowns in an orderly manner and adopt different forms, colors and patterns on different ceremonial occasions. From the anthropomorphic cultural relics unearthed in the Zhou Dynasty, it can be seen that although the clothing decoration is complex and simple, it is clear from top to bottom, which has laid the basic shape of China clothing.

Warring States clothing

During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the technology of weaving and embroidering has made great progress, making the clothing materials more and more refined and the varieties and names more and more. Brocade in Xiangyi, Henan, ice dance, romance and embroidery in Qilu, Shandong are popular all over the country. The spread of technology makes a variety of exquisite clothes stand out. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, not only the princes themselves were luxuriantly dressed, but even the courtiers Ke Qingshi wore pearls and jade around their waists, and clothes, crowns and shoes were very expensive. The ancients wore jade, which was divided into honour and inferiority, and gave it a symbol of personality. As far as influence is concerned, people in the upper class, both men and women, should wear several pieces or groups of exquisite carved Yu Pei. The sword was a new weapon at that time. In order to show courage and self-defense, nobles must wear swords inlaid with gold and jade. Waist belts are also popular with various hooks, which compete with each other. Men's and women's hats are more eye-catching, with delicate veils as thin as cicadas and precious pearls and jade; Some are shaped like cups. Shoes, mostly made of small deerskin, or woven with silk thread and fine grass; In winter, fur coats are extremely thick, and white fox fur is worth thousands of dollars. Women like to make the front of the cuffs with fur, and thin and gorgeous gloves with half exposed fingers, which are extremely beautiful. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the clothes of the upper class were broad and the clothes of the lower class were narrow. Deep clothes have the meaning of hiding the body. They are the casual clothes of the literati class at home and the dresses of Shu Ren people, which are unisex. In 307 BC, King Wuling of Zhao issued the order of Khufu to promote riding and shooting in Khufu to facilitate riding and shooting activities. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, clothing styles were unprecedentedly rich and varied, including deep clothes and Hu clothes. Musicians wear hoods, dancers have sleeves several feet long, and some people often wear horns or magpie tails, long small sleeve dresses and diagonal skirts. These are all related to the colorful social life.

Qinhan clothing

Compared with the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the material in this period was richer, and the deep clothes also got new development. Especially in the Han dynasty, with the establishment of the clothing system, the distinction between official ranks and grades of clothing was more strict. Clothing fabrics in Qin and Han dynasties are still brilliant. Embroidery patterns are mostly mountain clouds, birds and animals or vines. Brocade has various complicated geometric diamond patterns, and the whole pattern is woven with words. In the third year of Jian Yuan in the Western Han Dynasty (BC 138) and the fourth year of Yuan Shou in the Western Han Dynasty (BC 1 19), Zhang Qian was ordered to go to the Western Regions twice, which opened the land passage between China and western countries. After Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties, thousands of silks were exported continuously, which was called the Silk Road in history. As a result, China clothing culture spread to the world. Since the Qin and Han dynasties, there have been some developments and changes in deep clothing. Judging from the upper class in the Eastern Han Dynasty, the general cut robes were institutionalized. There is no big difference in the clothing system between Qin dynasty and Warring States period, and the basic shape of deep clothing has been maintained. Men's and women's clothing in the Western Han Dynasty still followed the form of deep clothes. Whether it is a single product or a cotton product, most of the tops and skirts are cut and stitched together, and the upper and lower parts are still not stitched or stitched; There are Hanfu and underwear in the coat, and their leaders are exposed together to become a rigid suit. Wear tight pants and keep the style of "boasting clothes and big skirts". The first step is to wear different shoes. Belt. In the Qin dynasty, clothes were black. In the Han Dynasty, there was a clothing system. The history books list more than 20 kinds of dresses, court clothes and uniforms of emperors and courtiers. The grade difference in clothing is very obvious.

Sui Tang clothing

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, China was unified by division, stable by war and prosperous in economy and culture. The development of clothing, whether it is material or style, presents an unprecedented brilliant scene. Colorful brocade is a kind of odong.com/wiki/%E5%8D%8A%E8%87%82' half-sleeve and collar garment, which is woven into various flowers with various colors. Gong Jin, in particular, has the patterns of pheasant, fighting sheep, phoenix and swimming scales, with gorgeous chapter colors. Embroidery includes five-color embroidery and gold and silver thread embroidery. Printing and dyeing patterns can be divided into multicolor overprint dyeing and monochromatic dyeing. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the main characteristics of men's crown clothing were that the upper layer wore robes, the officials wore hoes, and the people wore short shirts. Until the Five Dynasties, there was little change. Officials in Tian Zi and Guanbai used colors to distinguish grades, and patterns to indicate official ranks. Women's clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties was full of fashion flavor, which often developed from palace women's clothing to folk, and was imitated in succession, and was often influenced by northwest nationalities. The most fashionable women's dress in Sui and Tang Dynasties was short skirt, that is, long skirt with short coat, and the waist of the skirt was tied with silk ribbon, almost reaching the armpit.

Women in Sui and Tang Dynasties were well dressed. The "half arm" handed down from the court lasted for a long time, and later men also put it on. At that time, a long scarf was also popular, which was made of tulle and had flowers painted with silver flowers or gold and silver powder. One end is fixed on the chest strap of the half arm, then put on the shoulder and wrapped around the arm, so it is called silk. Women's hair accessories in Tang Dynasty are various, each with its own name. Women's shoes are generally flower shoes, mostly made of splendid fabrics, colored silks and leather. Tang people are good at integrating northwest minorities with foreign cultures such as Tianzhu and Persia. During the Tang Dynasty from Zhenguan to Kaiyuan, new Hu clothes were very popular.

Song Liao xiajinyuan

The Song Dynasty basically retained the style of Han costumes, while the costumes of Liao, Xixia, Jinyuan and other dynasties had the characteristics of Qidan, Tangut, Jurchen and Mongolian respectively. National costumes are once again exchanged and integrated. There are three kinds of costumes in Song Dynasty: official clothes, casual clothes and old clothes. In the Song Dynasty, Luo was the main fabric of official clothes. Due to the old system of the Five Dynasties, the imperial court gave the pro-expensive ministers brocade robes in different colors every year, such as the carved ball brocade robes of the Seven Song Dynasties. The colors of official uniforms follow the Tang system, with purple being more than three, Zhu being more than five, green being more than seven and green being more than nine. The style of official uniforms is roughly similar to the long-sleeved official uniforms in the late Tang Dynasty, but the first clothes (crowns and hats, etc.). ) It is already a flat-winged black silk hat, named Straight Foot, which has been customized. The official clothes of the Song Dynasty followed the system of wearing fish in the Tang Dynasty. Officials who are qualified to wear purple and scarlet official uniforms must tie a "fish bag" around their waist, which contains fish made of gold, silver and copper to distinguish official products. "Curved collar in the square" is also a feature of the imperial costume, that is, the ornaments under the circle are placed on the items of the imperial costume. In addition to official clothes and uniforms, the daily casual clothes of officials in Song Dynasty are mainly small sleeve round neck shirts and soft-winged hoes, which are still in Tang style, but their feet are replaced with casual shoes that are more convenient for daily life. The representative costumes of the old people in the Song Dynasty are wide-body robes and large-sleeved Dongpo towels. The robe was edged with dark cloth to keep the ancient style. Dongpo towel is a square tube-shaped towel, which was created by Su Dongpo, a great writer. In fact, it is the revival of ancient towels, which were often worn by old gentry in the Ming Dynasty.

Mingqing clothing

In the Ming Dynasty, the traditional costumes of Han nationality were the main body, while in the Qing Dynasty, Manchu costumes were the mainstream. The costumes of the upper and lower classes of the two generations have obvious grades. The official dress of the upper class is a symbol of power, which has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, robes and yellow have been exclusively used by the royal family. Since the Southern and Northern Dynasties, purple is the most expensive. In the Ming Dynasty, because the emperor surnamed Zhu, Zhu was regarded as a positive color, and because of the saying that "evil purple captures Zhu", purple was abolished from official uniforms. The most distinctive feature is to use "tonic" to express the grade. The patch is a piece of silk about 40 ~ 50 cm square, embroidered with different patterns, and then sewn on the official clothes, one on the chest and one on the back. Civil servants use birds as a supplement, and military officers use animals, which are divided into nine categories. The usual round neck gown is divided into two parts according to the length of clothes and sleeves, and the part that grows up is the most respected. The main first clothes of officials in Ming Dynasty are slightly different from those in Song and Yuan Dynasties. The emperor wore black gauze and folded towels, and the wings of his hat stood up from behind. The official robe wears lacquered yarn with spreading wings and often wears his duties. The wives and mothers of the banned officials also have red big sleeve dresses with different stripes and decorations and various summer shawls. In addition, high heels have been used by upper-class women, which are divided into high heels and high heels. In the Ming Dynasty, people's clothes were long and short, including shirts or skirts, which basically inherited the old tradition and had a very rich variety. In terms of dress color, civilian wives and daughters can only wear purple, green, pink and other colors to avoid mixing with official clothes; Working people are only allowed to use brown. Apart from the old hats that have been popular since the Tang and Song Dynasties, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two kinds of hats, which were promulgated throughout the country and used by ordinary people. One is a square barrel-shaped black lacquer gauze cap, called a square nipple; One is a hemispherical hat composed of six pieces, called Liuhe unified hat, which means equality in all countries and unity in the world. The latter, commonly known as melon skin hat, is made of black velvet and satin. During the Qing dynasty, shaving and changing clothes were carried out by violent means, and men's clothes were unified according to Manchu customs. In the ninth year of Shunzhi (1652), it was promulgated by decree, and since then, the crown clothing with strong Han color has been abolished. In the Ming Dynasty, all men wore their hair in a bun and wore loose clothes, stockings and pumps. In the Qing dynasty, I wore a thin horseshoe-cuff arrow suit and tight socks and deep boots. However, according to the law, official and folk costumes are completely different.