Ma Xiongshan in Qujing, Yunnan, I believe many people have an impression, because Jiangdu, the two major sources of the Pearl River system, originated here. Beipanjiang River originates from the back of Maxiong Mountain, enters Guizhou in the north, then flows 449 kilometers south in the deep mountain with a height difference of nearly 2000 meters in Guizhou, cuts the western plateau of Guizhou, passes through Qinglong, Pu 'an, Xingren, Zhenfeng, Ceheng and Wangmo counties in southwest Guizhou, and finally joins Hongshui River in Wangmo, Guizhou, enters Guangxi and finally flows into the sea.
On the Guizhou Plateau, the history of Beipanjiang flowing freely can be traced back to 654.38+0.5 billion years ago. 65.438+0.5 billion years ago, the Indian Ocean plate collided with the Eurasian plate, and 3/4 of the land in China was spliced and unified, and the Guizhou Plateau began to uplift in the process. Before that, Guizhou was on the seabed for a long time, and thousands of meters thick hard karst limestone was deposited on the seabed, which laid the foundation for the colorful landscape of Guizhou Plateau.
The rising plateau intercepted the warm and humid airflow, and enough rain fell on the earth to form surface water, which began to erode the surface. About 6,543.8 billion years ago, the famous Yanshan Movement caused the Guizhou Plateau to uplift again. Later, during the Himalayan movement 30 million years ago, the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau rose to today's height and became the roof of the world. The crust of Guizhou Plateau also rises or falls intermittently, and rivers cut down strongly, forming the geomorphological characteristics of mountains, canyons and fault basins.
The canyon is the most intuitive evidence that Beipanjiang cuts the Guizhou Plateau. It can be said that Beipanjiang Valley has the most dense canyons in the world: Juni River Canyon, Chahe Canyon, Yingpan Canyon, Zhongye Canyon, A Lang Ping Canyon, Baling River Canyon, Huajiang Canyon ... The rivers meander in the mountains, and the walls stand like knives, with infinite scenery.
The Juni River Grand Canyon is located at the end of the Kedu River in the northern plate. On both sides of the canyon are Xuanwei City in Yunnan and Liupanshui City in Guizhou. The swift river separates the two places, and the steep rock wall makes people flinch. On the north bank of the river, several streams converge into several beautiful waterfalls, which pour into the river from the cliff with a drop of about 500 meters with thunderous momentum, which is extremely spectacular.
Located in Liupanshui City, Guizhou Province, Zhongye Grand Canyon is the steepest part of Beipanjiang River, with a total length of 16 km, a height of 100 to 1400 m and an average width of 60 meters. It is a typical karst landform area with strange peaks and rocks, which is magnificent and is known as the best canyon in Guizhou. There are lush trees in the canyon, which is also the core area of Guizhou langur reserve. Around the canyon, among the mountains, langurs are the first-class protected animals in the country, and macaques, civets, golden pheasants and impalas are the second-class rare protected animals, one after another; Taxus chinensis, Davidia involucrata and other national first-class rare plants, palm bamboo, rock beans and other second-class protected plants are lush.
Huajiang Grand Canyon is located between the green hills in Guanling Buyi and Miao Autonomous County, Anshun City. The river stretches for tens of kilometers at the bottom of the canyon, and the river fluctuates due to the canyon topography, or the waves roar or slow down. This river has shaped thousands of forms on karst rocks, including peaks and forests like pillars, deep holes, undercurrents and waterfalls ... All types of karst landforms can be seen here. During the flood season, the yellow waves are monstrous and there are many strange rocks. The 86th edition of "Liusha River", where The Journey to the West Zhongsha monk lived, was filmed here.
In addition to canyons, Beipanjiang has created many peculiar landforms for karst areas in Guizhou Plateau, such as white rain wells with a depth of 424 meters, sinkholes in the sky and countless underground streams ... According to statistics, there are only 15 underground streams in Liupanshui, and the annual rainfall of Beipanjiang is only about 40%, and the rest of the water is creating miracles that we can't see underground.
The waterfall is a wonder that Beipanjiang has to say. Beipanjiang has created more than 160 waterfalls in Guizhou. These waterfalls come together and become a fascinating landscape on the earth. Huangguoshu Waterfall, located on the tributary of Beipanjiang River, is one of the best. The waterfall group is centered on the famous Huangguoshu Waterfall, plus a dozen ground waterfalls and underground waterfalls with different postures. The thick carbonate basement and abundant water flow constitute the pattern of waterfalls, caves, strange lakes and strange peaks gathering here. Huangguoshu Waterfalls Group is also called "Karst Waterfalls Museum".
In this schematic diagram of the main landforms of Beipanjiang Gorge, we can see the main landforms of Beipanjiang Gorge: terraces, tiankeng, alluvial fans in the valley, erosion and collapse, and long shrubs. Cartography /QinNina
Beipanjiang cut the plateau, creating countless beautiful scenery, but also blocking the pace of people's exchanges, people on both sides of the strait can only sigh. It's just that communication has to continue. In ancient times, people used to ferry by boat, but because of the big waves in the northern plate of the river and frequent accidents, people gradually abandoned it. Bridges came into being.
The bridge is the most convenient way to cross the canyon. The river is turbulent, the gorge is high and the valley is deep. Throughout the ages, there have been various bridges on the Beipanjiang River-stone bridge, cable-stayed bridge, wooden bridge, rattan bridge, cable-stayed bridge ... one canyon after another across the two banks, which has become an unyielding witness of predecessors.
Today, there are still many ancient bridges on Beipanjiang River, such as Tiesuo Bridge on Huajiang Grand Canyon. It is reported that this iron cable bridge was built in Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty. Because of the rapidity of the river, the cliffs on both sides of the bridge are straight, and they have failed twice before. Later, after careful site selection during Guangxu period, cast iron cable was used as a bridge before it was built. According to "Guizhou Tongzhi? The Records of Emperor Xing recorded: "In the southeast of Yongning Prefecture (now yongningzhen, Guanling County), Sina was recruited as Guiyang and Anshun went out of Yunnan via Xingyi. "For many years, Huajiang Tiesuo Bridge has been the main road for communication between Guizhou and Yunnan. On the ancient post road on the south bank of the bridge, there is also a calligraphy art corridor connected by many cliff stone carvings and stone carvings. Today, after many repairs, Huajiang Tiesuo Bridge is still an important channel for people on both sides of the strait to communicate. 1982, Guizhou province listed it as a protected cultural relic, and many people came here.
Huajiang Tiesuo Bridge was built in Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty with a history of 100 years. On the cliff beside the ancient post road on the south bank of the bridge, there are still many calligraphy inscriptions of past dynasties. Photography/Li Guiyun
With the development of economy and the progress of technology, the canyon has been unable to stop the pace of people's communication. Today, there are many bridges on Beipanjiang River, including Beipanjiang Bridge on Hangrui Expressway, Beipanjiang Bridge on Guanxing Expressway, Beipanjiang Bridge on Shanghai-Kunming Expressway, Beipanjiang Bridge on Shanghai-Kunming High-speed Railway, Beipanjiang Bridge on Shuibai Railway and Beipanjiang Bridge on Du Xing Expressway. ..
Beipanjiang Bridge of Hangrui Expressway located in Juni Gorge Valley is the most representative one. For thousands of years, if people on both sides of the canyon want to communicate with each other, they have to climb three hills and walk 40 kilometers of mountain roads to reach the other side. In this case, building bridges and roads is put on the agenda. It is not easy to build bridges between limestone-covered canyons. Complex geological conditions may lead to huge caves, some of which are nearly 100 meters deep. Under such conditions, designers, like minesweepers, kept moving the bridge to a higher position to avoid caves and cracks all over the mountains, and finally set the bridge deck at a dizzying height of 565 meters.
The address has been chosen, and the construction process will not happen overnight. Facing the harsh natural climate such as strong wind, fog, rainstorm and freezing, the construction team is also facing many difficulties, and which bridge to choose is one of them. After many studies and comparison of several schemes, the steel truss girder cable-stayed bridge with a main span of 720 meters was finally decided. At that time, there was no case of this kind of bridge at home and abroad, which was the first time at home and abroad. The difficulties were removed step by step, and the Beipanjiang Bridge of Hangrui Expressway was finally successfully completed and opened to traffic on 20 16. Its construction has made many achievements in China or the world: the tallest bridge in China, the world's first ... The completion of the bridge has also ended the history that Xuanwei and Shuicheng are not connected by highways, and the travel time between the two places has been shortened from more than 4 hours to 1 hour, which has added a lot of color to the history of Chinese bridges.
One bridge crosses Yunnan and Guizhou, and the natural moat becomes a thoroughfare. Beipanjiang Bridge on Hangrui Expressway, located at the junction of Guizhou and Yunnan, has a total length of 1, 346,5438+0.4m, and the bridge deck is 565m away from the valley bottom. It is the highest bridge in China. Photo courtesy/creativity
Regional separation is the basic factor of cultural barriers. Beipanjiang landform has formed a self-contained cultural "small watershed" in Beipanjiang basin, which is one of the regions with the largest ethnic groups in China. If you walk in Beipanjiang Valley in March or April of the lunar calendar every year, you may meet the Buyi people's "March 3", the Miao people's jump flower festival, the Gelao people's festival of offering sacrifices to mountains, and the Yi people's festival of arranging flowers ... The mountains are full of flowers and the climate is pleasant. Before the busy farming season comes, people get together, singing and dancing.
Buyi nationality is the most populous minority in Beipanjiang River Basin. Most of them live in the dam by the river, mainly rice, also known as "the country of rice". "March 3rd" is a unique traditional festival of Buyi people. On the third day of the third lunar month, Buyi people in Zhenfeng, Wangmo, Ceheng and other places in the Beipanjiang River basin will hold grand sacrificial activities, such as dancing grass dragons to eliminate evil spirits, killing pigs and cattle to worship the gods in the mountains, and "hiding insects" to pray in the mountains. At the same time, this day is also the best day for young Buyi men and women to choose their spouses. Buyi people express their yearning for a happy life in a strong and quaint way with intense love songs and cheerful dances. Of course, "March 3" is only one of the many ethnic characteristics of Buyi people, and other festivals such as "April 8", "June 6" and "Niuwang Festival" are also unique to Buyi people.
Migration is the most common event in Miao history. There have been many migrations in history, and the destinations are scattered and isolated, so there are many branches of Miao nationality, and there are also differences in costumes and festivals. In Beipanjiang River Basin, Miao people are mainly distributed in Zhenfeng, Guanling, Xingren, Shuicheng and Liuzhi Special Zones. The mountainous terrain of Beipanjiang River blocks the communication between Miao people in these places, forming many small branches with cultural differences, such as long-horned seedlings, large-flowered seedlings and crooked-combed seedlings, which also preserves the national culture here.
There are many ethnic minorities living in Beipanjiang River Basin, among which Miao nationality is one. The picture shows that the Miao people in Liuzhi Special Zone of Liupanshui City are celebrating a traditional festival-Treading on Songs Hall. Photography/Li Guiyun
Long-legged Miao people in Beipanjiang Valley mainly live in the border area between Liuzhi Special Zone and zhijin county. 1997, China and Norway cooperated to build the first ecological museum in Asia, making this strange nation known to more people. The name "Long-horned Miao" comes from their unique headdress style-huge bun. When women comb their hair every day, they weave the fallen hair with twine and pass it on from generation to generation. The most precious bun in Suojia Ecological Museum has accumulated five generations of hair and weighs 6 kilograms. In order to make the hairstyle look bigger, wool has been put into the bun in recent years.
Headdress and costume are the main basis to distinguish different branches of Miao nationality. For example, oblique comb seedlings are called "oblique comb" because women will insert a long comb on one side of their heads. The oblique comb seedlings in Beipanjiang River basin are mainly distributed in Qinglong, Pu 'an, Xingren, Anlong and Guanling. Dahua Temple is called Dahua Temple because of its rough and simple clothing pattern and bright red and gorgeous style. Dahuamiao in Beipanjiang River Basin is mainly distributed in Puding and Langdai areas.
The geographical barrier of Beipanjiang blocked people's footsteps, but communication never stopped. There is a very unique phenomenon in Beipanjiang River Basin. Through marriage and settlement, many multi-ethnic villages have emerged. A village contains two or three major ethnic groups, such as Luobie Buyi Yi Township and Jiuying Baimiaoyi Township. Such villages can be found everywhere in Beipanjiang River Basin. There are many villages whose names belong to this ethnic group, but people from other ethnic groups have no history. For example, Buyi people live in villages named after Gelao people, and Miao people live in villages named after Yi people. ...
When one culture meets another and infects each other, the new culture grows quietly, and the national culture of Beipanjiang is as complicated as its landform. However, isolation or blending is a natural choice, and Beipanjiang just flows quietly until the end of time.
Beipanjiang is not only the creator of plateau landform, but also the coastal people. For thousands of years, people have lived poetically on both sides of this river. Photography/Zhu Degui
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